"High Moly" grease for valve adjustment. What brand or kind? Does it matter?

[TheRedOnesAreFaster]

I'm preparing to do my first valve adjustment on my Sprint, and the service manual says I need to use a 50/50 mix of engine oil and a "high molybdenum disulfide content" lube on the shims and buckets.

Where do I find this stuff?  I've seen some lubes that have the moly, but never a percentage of content listed.  Is there a specific brand I should get?

Any help would be appreciated.

As an aside, you'd think that in a town of nearly 60,000 people, I'd be able to buy a decent micrometer.  Oh how wrong I am.

[1KPerDay]

Any good chassis lube will be fine. Moly grease from checker auto works.

[littlefield]

I believe that is what used as an extreme pressure additive.  Look for an EP grease.

[Fred]

Honda Moly 60 Paste. It's 60 per cent molybdenum disulfide. It's used to grease the splines of the rear drive of shaft driven Hondas. The good Honda shops know about it....

Honda part number is 08734-0001

[maddjack]

Honda Moly 60 Paste. It's 60 per cent molybdenum disulfide. It's used to grease the splines of the rear drive of shaft driven Hondas. The good Honda shops know about it....

Honda part number is 08734-0001

Fred is on the money Use this

[jschmidt]

Moly assembly lube. Comes in a jar or can with a brush in the lid. Any auto parts store, I think

[JimWilliamson]

Your local Honda cycle store should have "Moly 60 Paste" which is - on the label - 60% Molybdenum Disulfide paste. The 3 oz (mini-grease-gun) tube rusn, IIRC about $10 US.

Googled a photo:
http://www.wingworx.com/browseproducts/Pro-Honda-Moly-60-Paste.html

Holy cr*p - this thread might win the "how many people can post in 2 minutes" award!

[TheRedOnesAreFaster]

Thank you all very much!

This is why I love this site.

[3banger]

Is this your first valve clearance check?  If it is it is likely they will all be with in tolerance and there will be no need to change any shims.

Also I've changed shims on previous generation 955 motors and I never used any assembly lube and never had a problem.  I just make sure to give every thing a good coating of oil.  Really I don't see the difference between this and a motor that has sat for many days giving the oil time to mostly drain away and then started.

[jschmidt]

The paste and the lube don't need to be mixed with oil.

[TheRedOnesAreFaster]

Is this your first valve clearance check?  If it is it is likely they will all be with in tolerance and there will be no need to change any shims.

It's my 24K service, but my personal first "do it myself" check.  All valves were where they should be.  Although I need a real set of feeler gauges- mine only has a few (about 4) that are actually usable for the specs given.  I'd like to have a better sense of what the clearance is, even though I know they are neither too tight or too loose.  

It went OK this morning, except I think I managed to strip out one of the cam cover bolt holes- and I was using a torque wrench set for 8 pounds.  Hopefully it won't leak, and I can put in a helicoil at the next service.  I also think I could just re-thread it and make a bolt that would work.  I'll be testing it later.

If anyone knows
Posted on: June 27, 2007, 08:28:21 am

The paste and the lube don't need to be mixed with oil.

I'm just trying to follow the procedure as outlined in the service manual, which says to use a 50/50 mix of molybdenum disulfide and engine oil.  But, as I mentioned above, the valves were all in spec, so it's a moot point anyway.