Chain differences, top of the line versus the cheap one.

[Guy]

How much of a difference do the different level of chains make? If I buy a DID top of the line x-ring, is it any different from the cheapest EK x-ring, and vice versa? I'm kind of curious, 'cause it is about that time of chain replacement, and I'd like to get the best bang for the buck.

Also, is there any other chains that would be recommended over DID or EK? Some non-mainstream brand that is the bee's knees.

[jschmidt]

Been a fan of DID forever, every since my income allowed me to have a choice that is. Couldn't prove it, but I find them superior. I think the letter-named o-ring shapes are a marketing gimmick. And EK may now be better than the last time I used one.

For me its always DID. No regrets.

[r2t2]

I prefer to get a chain in which the tensile strength exceeds the bike. Usually the cheaper chains have a lower tensile strength. I feel better with a stronger chain rather than one that is just adequate. I've been real happy with my EK ZZZ 530 chain on the Blackbird. So far 10K miles and no stretch since the inital adjustment at around 600 miles.

[JoelCool]

My guess is that maintenance combined with a relatively smooth throttle hand have more to do with a chain's life than how much you pay for it.  Since getting 39k miles from a DID 530 ZVM and AFAM sprocket set I've made that my choice.  Not exactly a cheap chain, but I don't really like changing chains very much.

[Green01SprintST]

+1 on the DID.  I got just under 30 thousand miles out of the stock OEM DID on my Sprint.  You need to remember to lube the damn thing though if you expect to get any appreciable life out of it.  Anybody that tells you otherwise is, well, wrong.

[thatguy]

I'm over 15K into my DID EVRM2 chain on the Tuono.Shows no signs of wearing out soon.Gets lubed with BelRay clean chain every 500 miles or so.Really happy with it as the Aprilia is hard on chains.I will buy another when this one wears out.I had a rough time with the cost but no more.Excellent chain.You do replace the sprockets at the same time,don't you?Waste of money otherwise.

[Guy]

I'm over 15K into my DID EVRM2 chain on the Tuono.Shows no signs of wearing out soon.Gets lubed with BelRay clean chain every 500 miles or so.Really happy with it as the Aprilia is hard on chains.I will buy another when this one wears out.I had a rough time with the cost but no more.Excellent chain.You do replace the sprockets at the same time,don't you?Waste of money otherwise.

This is only my second chain changing, and I didn't replace the old sprocket set-up last time. I'm kinda lazy like that.   This time around I went with the Sprocket Centers DID chain/AFAM sprockets combo. Hopefully with the new sprockets, and better chain care, I can stretch this setup a little farther.

[kevin_stevens]

How much of a difference do the different level of chains make? If I buy a DID top of the line x-ring, is it any different from the cheapest EK x-ring, and vice versa? I'm kind of curious, 'cause it is about that time of chain replacement, and I'd like to get the best bang for the buck.

Also, is there any other chains that would be recommended over DID or EK? Some non-mainstream brand that is the bee's knees.

I find that the difference in chain quality/construction class is more significant than the manufacturer.  Low-end chains are not only crap, but annoying crap; you have to adjust and listen to them constantly throughout their relatively short life.  The pricier they get within the model line, they get quieter, live longer, and generally don't take much adjustment until very near the end of their life.  I'd rather have a high-end chain from a smaller company than a low-end chain from DID/EK/etc.

The best way I know to cheap out on chains is to find new OEM takeoffs on eBay (true new chains, not "only 1500 mile" used bits.  Only available occasionally, but the OEM chains are generally pretty good.  Second way to cheap out is to buy good stuff in bulk rolls, though that costs $$$ up front.

KeS

[thatguy]

1.)Adjust it cold and don't forget to check tension at the tight spot.They always have one.
2.)Lube it warm,i.e. after a nice ride when you get home.Lube at the joint of the roller and sideplates so the lube gets where it needs to be.
3.)Lube after riding in the rain or washing.Not immediately just next opportunity.
4.)Clean the crap off when possible.I am pretty slack at this one but I do it sometimes.I'm gonna get one of those brushes that get 3 sides at once and some goo cleaner.Maybe I won't be so lazy if it's an easier job.


On a side note a friend has a '84 Harley FLTP with almost 300K on it.I think he's on the second chain,maybe third I'll ask next time we talk.It's an enclosed chain in a constant oil bath.Wish more companies would look at this.Sprockets wear out first on his bike.It's getting hard to find them (sprockets) as Harley only did that for 2 years I think.Shit I have a pic of it.Hang on a minute.

[chornbe]

300k miles... it has *earned* those oil spots  

Damn, I love to see those bikes with *real* miles piled on.

[Uncle Bob]

I prefer to get a chain in which the tensile strength exceeds the bike. Usually the cheaper chains have a lower tensile strength. I feel better with a stronger chain rather than one that is just adequate. I've been real happy with my EK ZZZ 530 chain on the Blackbird. So far 10K miles and no stretch since the inital adjustment at around 600 miles.

there's not a chain out there that doesn't exceed the tensile strength of what a  stock bike can put out, let alone a heavily modifed bike

The question is how much safety margin you want?  2:1?  4:1?  10:1?