K&N Oil Filters - Who Uses Them?

[Busa@11K]

I use the K&Ns all the time, especially on my 675 because I don't need to remove any body panels to remove the filter w/ the nut on the end of it.  That said, there was one time I too stripped the nut on the end of my K&N and ended up punching a screwdriver through the darn thing to get it off.

Since then, I've learned one thing about removing K&Ns w/ the nut on the end of it... always use some degreaser and clean the nut off first.  It's worked everytime for me since then.  

In my case the nut was dry as a bone ... I made the mistake of using a 12-point box end wrench on the nut and that stripped it out and it was all over at that point.

Now that I've determined what the K&N torque spec gives on turns, plus I plan on using a 6-point wrench next time I remove the filter, it should all go like clockwork next time.  

[MisterEd]

I put mine on hand tight and remove them using a socket. You don't really need to crank down on your oil filter.

james

+1

I use the same procedure and I've never had a leak or any other problem with a filter loosening up, etc.  In fact, I've had them go on hand tight and REQUIRE the socket to remove - I'm not sure about the mechanics behind it, but the darned things tighten up over time.

I've also never had a problem removing my K&N filters using the wrench fitting - I've used K&N's for a while now.

[MarcS]

Yes, I know, and no idea why they want it that high.  Not gonna happen again.

KeS

I compared a Kawi filter for my ZX14 to the "compatible" Mobil 1 equivalent. The Kawi filter had a much harder O-ring, and actually got to whatever torque the service manual called for in a couple of turns, vs the Mobil 1 filters I used in the past (on a different bike) where the metal of the filter would touch the engine before I hit the torque...

Also, plenty of folks claim how hard the oil filters are to remove -- i did this too until I bought a quality oil filter wrench. Never had that problem again. The thin metal or plastic Wal-Mart and AutoZone specials from $3-6 are not very good...

[wfo]

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html
This is a good ref on filters.  The Purolator 14610 and 14612 both usually fit with one being just about an inch longer than most stock filters.  They fit a lot of bikes FJR, Triumph 955i and 1050 triples, R1's, ST1300's, etc, etc.  Guys on Triumph forums use them extensively as do lots of FJR guys.

Same filters my Mazda Protege 5 uses.  

[highside]

I use walmart automotive filters, they are cheaper and (ostensibly) work better. Sounds like a win to me. I just use an oil filter wrench so the nut really serves no purpose for me. If you don't HAVE a filter wrench you can get one for a couple bucks and it should be in your tool box just in case.

[ksann]

Don't forget that on some bikes, a traditional oil filter wrench doesn't fit so well, not the quality of the wrench, but the space.

On my Guzzi, the K&N is so much easier because that nut is much smaller in diameter than the proper oil filter wrench.



On my BMW, you get to buy the factory (or a special aftermarket) wrench unless you want to pull the shift linkage.



ken

[Bjorn Toulouse]

I use K&N filters on my VFR. As this is the first bike I've ever owned that uses a spin on filter, I safety wire the lil' rascule. Oil the o-ring seal....spin on to seal contact...add 1/4 turn by hand.


Rex

[Busy Little Whiner]

Mr.RC45 uses a K&N filter... namely KN303...

 

[ksann]

I use K&N filters on my VFR. As this is the first bike I've ever owned that uses a spin on filter, I safety wire the lil' rascule. Oil the o-ring seal....spin on to seal contact...add 1/4 turn by hand.


Rex

My Guzzi also uses a spin-on, but it is inside of the oil pan  




ken

[Sorthum]

I've used K&N on my SV and a few cars over the years.  Haven't done the oil on my ST yet, I'll report back with whatever I use I'd imagine...

Something I found is if you over-tighten it, it'll leak as surely as if you'd not tightened it enough.

"A quarter turn past hand tight" was all I ever needed...

[def38]

Screw a bunch of torque wrench misery!  Tighten until the gasket touches and add about a half turn to 3/4 turn, all by hand.  The difference in gasket crush caused by the variance in thread pitch among different manufacturers is marginal; remember we are only talking ~half a revolution here.  If you try half a turn and it leaks remove the filter, clean everything up and try again with 3/4 to 1 full turn.  It ain't rocket science.  BTW, Purolator Pure One filters are half the price of K&N's and IMO are a better filter.  They just don't have that spiffy nut.  

Torque the oil filter? Not me. I change the oil filters on two cars, one motorcycle and one Caterpillar diesel engine. Just let common sense be your guide. I hand tighten all the previously mentioned filters with no runs, drips or errors.