Ramble On 2007 (Day 5 & 6)

[UFO]

10 days:  No work, no agendas, no schedules...no plan!

Updated daily...assuming I have net access.

Day 1:  Yelm, WA to Tonasket, WA via Hwy 20 - 355 liesurely miles

Yes, this is my first road trip in a LONG time.  I'm flying solo on this one...which I kind of like since it fits my personality and allows me to do whatever the hell I want, when I want.

Fearful of getting dumped on (as it poured at our house most of the day on Wednesday) I woke today to partly cloudy skies.  But knowing I was heading over a Cascade pass I still donned my ancient (and recently waterproofed) inclimate weather gear.  I had to pop in to town real quick to pick up some emergency cash.  Then what?  Head north on I-5 to Burlington?  Oh hell no.

I went up 18 to I-90, then jumped on Fall City road (203) until it hit 2, which in turn hit 9, which in turn spawned 530 which splits through the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.  Was it the quickest way to intersect 20?  Nope, but it was a far more interesting path.

At Darrington I stopped and fueled the bike (50 mpg first check) and myself for the push over the pass.  As I stood at the gas station I received the obligatory stares like I was dressed in a spacesuit and piloting an X-wing fighter...and had to field the obligatory questions like "How much did that cost?" or comments like "I'm gettin' me a 650 one of those.  Look honey, I want the 650 version of that."  "That?"  She says as she looks at the bike and rolls her eyes.  Yeah, please forgive me...it's not a Harley.

Enough chit chatting with the cast of Deliverance...I've got RVs and boat towing dualies to get stuck behind!!  Up Hwy 20 I went, leap frogging pollution belching RVs and a pack of bikes heading to Winthrop as we all took turns at various places to take a picture or a leak.

Once I get to the "top" of the pass where there are more oppotunities to pass, and the sweepers are plentiful...I'm able stretch the FJRs legs.  Thankfully not a copper to be seen or it would have been a bad start to a good trip.  But the lack of speed tax collectors soon changes.

I roll into Winthrop, and the place is packed with munchkins running around with ice cream, old people with walkers in crosswalks, and lots of bikes.  Something going down?  Dunno.  Tourist traps give me the willies...I'm outta here as soon as the people vacate the crosswalks!

After Twisp I keep following 20 over Loup Loup Pass.  Nice road, almost zero traffic going my direction.  I lock in behind a car that's going a reasonable speed and hold her steady.  Good thing.  Three bikes go by the other direction...followed by a cop.  Then another cop goes by.  During this 20 mile stretch in to Okanogon I pass no fewer than 5 marked copper cars. All going the other direction.

I roll into Okanogon.  It's warm...but not hot.  But the FJR doesn't even like "warm" it wants to be moving a subsonic speed to stay nice and cool.  I contemplate swapping off my crappy weather gear for my backup gear.  Nah..I push on to Tonasket where 20 splits off across WA state to the east...towards Sherman Pass, drier climates, and forest fires.

Tomorrow should be interesting.  Will I hit some forest fires?  Will my untrained and out of shape ass be able to sustain 10 days on the road?  It has no choice.

(select pictures..I will only be doing 4 image uploads per day.)

[Stargzrgrl]

Go Skipper Go!!!

About time you got some time off!  

[Puck]

Why didn't you upload the self-portrait?!    

Great job on the 2nd photo, btw.

Ride safe!

[JimWilliamson]

Enjoy!

10 Days - no plans???  Stop over and I'll buy the burger-n-beer!

[Mrs. DantesDame]

Why didn't you upload the self-portrait?!    

Ride safe!

No one says that you couldn't do it, Puck  


Neal - glad to see you finally get out of your cube. Enjoy your time to yourself  

[ol Rocket]

Wow.  Just like old times.  The Skipper actually rides a motorcycle!

[Headmanbrewing]

Way to go, Skip.  Looks like a good start to a great trip.  Have fun!

Scott

[stefrrr]

Why didn't you upload the self-portrait?!    

Great job on the 2nd photo, btw.

Ride safe!

Is this Mrs. Skipper?  

[Mrs. DantesDame]

Is this Mrs. Skipper?  

That be she  

[stefrrr]

Welcome!  

(Take the VFR out while the skipper's gone. That'll teach him for selling your bike.   )


By the way, great pictures! Sounds like fun & have a good time!

[bizarro]

  Woot!

[bubba zanetti]

Sherman in the rain eh Skip??  ... pissin here tonight. Still that is a great road especially from your side.

Ramble on ... eh ?

Got no time to for spreadin roots,
The time has come to be gone.
And tho our health we drank a thousand times,
Its time to ramble on.

Ramble on,
And nows the time, the time is now
To sing my song.
Im goin round the world ....

 

I am no serious fan ... but get the Led out ... eh? ... best soundtrack I could find ....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoBvVXluE0M

[bobmielke]

Nice ride report with great pics. I've recently started returning to solo rides myself, not because I don't enjoy my two riding friends but just to be alone. My photography demands frequent stops sometimes to get the photo angles and lighting just ride and I don't like holding others up to do so. Anyway I'm glad you're posting amd look forward to seeing more of your journey.

[MK96xj]

Great job on the 2nd photo, btw.

Ride safe!

+1
that second shot is sweet

enjoy the ride

[UFO]

Updated daily...assuming I have net access.

Day 2:  Tonasket, WA to Pullman, WA via Hwy 20 - 370 miles

I've discovered that the last 4 years of doing no real long distance riding has wreaked havoc on me.  Halfway through day 2 my knees really began bugging me.  The riding position of the FJR is fairly relaxed, so it must have something to do with the angle my legs are forced into when feet are on the pegs.  I don't recall my knees ever aching this bad on the VFR.  My ass is also showing it's lack of conditioning.

I got a late start out of Tonasket after a slow breakfast then dealing with my debit card while trying to get gas.  I've found gas stations to be a little like the Twilight Zone.  In this instance an older dude with beard and an accent I couldn't quite figure out walked around the pump and said "Ken you help meh work this thing?"   I look around the pump and see that he's driving a nice, late model Jeep Cherokee. How the hell do you drive a nice rig like that and don't know how to work a gas pump?  So I show him the ropes then set out east in Hwy 20 towards Republic and eventually Sherman Pass.

The morning is cool and partly cloudy.  Traffic is light.  Even so I'm often stuck behind ramdom trucks or RVs crawling up the hills, then hauling ass on the down side.  The road is prettey decent all the way to Republic.  I roll through and head for Sherman Pass where they are in the process of repaving the entire pass.  At the beginning of the construction area I stop to snap a picture of the regrowth in the valley after a fire roared through 20 years ago.  I then queue up with the other traffic waiting at the flagger.  Of course the line consisted of one RV, and about 10 cars.  So we all get to following this RV over the entire pass.

Unfortunately there's no fun to be had on Sherman Pass this summer.  A small part of it is brand new, oily blacktop.  The rest of it is grooved, chewed up blacktop prepped for re-paving.  Next summer this will be a stellar road, and will deserve the Destination Highways rating it earned.

The rest of the ride down to Lake Roosevelt, Kettle Falls, and Colville is uneventful.  Outside Colville things get interesting again.  There are construction signs all over saying "Motorcycles Use Extreme Caution" and "Loose Gravel" without any work.  I noticed the pavement is extremely smooth, like all the tar had welled up to the surface.  All of this makes me paranoid and I take it easy.  It looks like this section of 20 is going to get a fresh chip seal very soon...the bane of motorcyclists everywhere.

The tighter twisties give way to excellent pavement and high speed sweepers just east of Crystal Falls Park until 20 dumps you into Tiger along the shores of the Pend Oreille.  I turn south and head to Sandpoint.  When I get there I realize why I hate that place...all highway traffic is diverted right through down town.  Hey, this might have been a great idea in 1940.  Not such a hot idea in 2007.

I stop of gas south of Sandpoint (50 mpg again)...and rest the knees.  I'm on 95 heading south, and traffic is terrible.  95 is the only main highway between north and south Idaho.  So I get in line and behave myself until I'm through Coeur d'Alene.  South of town 95 is a brand spankin' new 4 lane interstate for quite a few miles.  I believe the state has plan to eventually make 95 a 4 lane all the way to Boise...and it needs it.  The speed limit should be about 120 the road is so nice...but it doesn't last and eventually the new construction ends and I'm back on craptastic Idaho asphalt.

At Plummer I hang a left and head towards the Rocky Point resort where I spent a lot of summer days during my childhood.  It's a Friday afternoon in July...you'd think the joint would be jumping.  It's not.  It's a ghost town.  The lodge/restaurant has been shut down (inside gutted).  The beach is empty.  The dock is deserted.  I saw about 6 people there the entire time.  I remember as a kid the parking lot was jammed, boats all over on the water, boats lined up on the dock being stocked with provisions, kids running all over, etc.  Pretty sad.  What do families do these days?  Shove money in their kids hands and tell them to get out of their sight and go to the mall?

Time to go...too depressing.

I head back to 95 and jet down to Moscow, ID where I lived for about 20 years and went to college.  Things haven't changed much.  Lots of new construction on campus though.  I ride up to the administration building and snap a quick picture.  Had to belive it's been 17 yeards since I receive my bachelor's educashun.

Time to head to Pullman to crash at my mom's.  The highway between Moscow and Pullman is completely gutted to be converted to a 4 lane...or perhaps 6 lane.  The excavation seems insanely wide to extend the current 2 lane by 2 more lanes.

I know...too many words.

[Nimh]

Great stuff UFO - looking forward to more installments.  

Lolo Pass to come?

[info]

I like the shot in the first series with the helmet.
The silver bike? That is slower than the blue, isn't it?  

[UFO]

Updated daily...assuming I have net access.

Day 3:  Pullman, WA

Off day.  Spent the day with my mom...it was her birthday.  

[UFO]

Updated daily...assuming I have net access.

Day 4:  Pullman, WA to Dillon, MT via Lolo Pass - 425 miles

I got a late start out of Pullman.  It was almost 9:00 AM by the time I finished getting packed, getting gassed up, and talking to a guy from AZ at the gas station about the FJR.  Someone who actually  knew something about bikes and the FJR in particular.  I head straight for Lewiston and am reminded by the foul stench going down the steep grade that there's still a wood pulp processing plant on the river.  Before Lewiston I hang a left at the Clearwater River and find myself on the familiar Hwy 12 on the way to Lolo Pass and Montana beyond.

The road is fairly mundane until 95 splits off from it and 12 crosses to the south side of the Clearwater.  Some of the twisties actually start here, even though it's...ohhh...a good 80 miles from the now famous "Winding Road, Next 77 Miles" sign.  Traffic is light, but I eventually get stuck behind two tractor trailers.  I decide it's time for a break and spy a small beach.  So I pull over and cool my heels for a bit, putting on my mesh jacket as it's beginning to heat up.

Once back on the road I get stuck behind very few cars the rest of the way to Lolo, MT.  Once I hit the west side sign I pull over for few shots...then the fun begins.  Notice the ST.N sticker (just below the "77") in the west side sign shot below.  Hwy 12 is popular with some members.

The next 77 miles are spent at about 70 mph with not a cop in sight.  Most of the corners are of the 35-45 variety, the sweet spot between the tight stuff and real high speed sweepers.  Just get in a groove and the next thing you know you're at the top of Lolo Pass taking pictures in front of the east side sign.  There's not stopping during this stretch unless you have an emergency...it's too much fun.    I have to say that today's ride between Lewiston, ID and Lolo, MT was one of the best riding experiences I've had in many years, even though I've ridden and driven the road several times already.  If you're anywhere near N. Idaho, you have to try to spend the afternoon on the Hwy 12.

Just past the east side sign is a rest stop.  I pull over and relax in the shade and grab some snacks from my bags for lunch.  All the while tank topped and helmetless cruiser riders pull in and turn around to head back to Lolo, MT...a mere mile from where the good stuff starts on the Idaho side of Hwy 12.

As I head down the pass into Montana things begin to heat up.  In Lolo I fuel up (51.3 mpg, despite the twisties) and start hydrating big time.  I turn south on 93 heading towards Lost Trails Pass.  As I pass a business I notice the temperature says 105.  The cool thing about Montana is the normal speed limit on shitty roads is 70, but everyone drives 80.  Speed limit on moderately nice roads is 75.

At the top of Lost Trails Pass I take a break to cool down, then head east across Chief Joseph Pass on 43.  The speed limit is 70, but once you get past Big Hole National Battlefield you might as well open it up to 100 if you have a bike capable of sustaining that speed.  43 intersects 278 and they both traverse the high plains plateau (6000+ feet alt) between the Salmon National Forest and the Beaverhead National Forest.  There's nothing to be seen as far as you can see but grasslands and cattle herds.

I spent about an hour cruising close to 90 and saw the ocassional farmer's truck.  If you ever find yourselvs on these roads, don't be afraid to open it up.  If you don't you will literally pass out from boredom and wake up in a ditch somewhere.

I roll in to Dillon at 5:00 PM.  Look at my maps.  Hmmm, it's about 130 miles to West Yellowstone.  That would put me in at 7:00 PM at the best.  Oh wait..time zone change...make that 8:00 PM best case.  Meh...I'll stay in Dillon tonight.  No more 9:00 AM starts for me.  When I hit the hotel I was starving.  So what better way to relax than a little dinner with ST.N.

On a positive note, my ass is returning to form already.  On day two my ass and knees where really bugging me.  At the end of today they were only mildly annoying.

[Nimh]

  Whoohooo!    Enjoy Lolo.  We're planning on hitting that stretch in late August.  Looks like a blast.