How stupid is it to try to replace fork oil without removing the forks?

[1KPerDay]

On forks with no drain plug?

[dinolee]

Pretty stupid.    But I'm sure with duct tape, a rubber hose, and a monkey, you should be able to McGyver something up that would work reasonably well.  Not sure what you'd use the duct tape for, but the hose and monkey should be self-explanatory.

[squeezer]

Just so we're clear:  He doesn't mean that you should hose the monkey.

[mxvet57]

are you serious?  

 the best way to change fork oil is to take the forks off and dump the oil out and then disassemble the forks and clean every thing.


that does remind me some one told me that he knew some one that could change fork seals with out taking the forks apart. this argument went on for a wile un till i told him if he could do it I'll pay for the job.  I've never talked or seen him since.

[veefer800canuck]

If you could get several strong friends and INVERT the motorcycle, it would work fine.  

[1KPerDay]

 

I was thinking of getting one of those oil suction thingies or rigging up a syphon hose or something. For some reason I REALLY don't want to take my forks apart. I have a longish trip in a couple of weeks and I'm afraid I won't be able to get it back together before then. It takes me forfrigginever to get anything done. And I still have to finish the valve clearance job, replace the shock and chain/sprockets, and bleed the brakes. *sigh*

[kevin_stevens]

are you serious?  

 the best way to change fork oil is to take the forks off and dump the oil out and then disassemble the forks and clean every thing.


that does remind me some one told me that he knew some one that could change fork seals with out taking the forks apart. this argument went on for a wile un till i told him if he could do it I'll pay for the job.  I've never talked or seen him since.

Why is it a bad idea?  There's two ways of getting the right amount of fork oil in there - carefully cleaning every last bit of the old stuff out, and measuring the replacement volume and not spilling ANY - or just dumping it in and measuring the resulting level, which is more what you care about anyway.  I don't see why a suction pump wouldn't do a reasonable job of getting 95% of the old oil out.

Your statement about "the best way" can be equally true, there's no inherent contradiction.

BTW, I *have* successfully changed fork seals on my K1200RS without disassembling the forks, so yes it can be done.  Why the hell that bike even HAD fork oil in it is still beyond my comprehension, and really irritates me every time I think about the work involved.

KeS

[Raphy]

Turkey baster, rubber hose, and a stiff hose...

ask me how i know...    

[LicketySplat]

Pretty stupid.    But I'm sure with duct tape, a rubber hose, and a monkey, you should be able to McGyver something up that would work reasonably well.  Not sure what you'd use the duct tape for, but the hose and monkey should be self-explanatory.

The duct tape would be to stick to any oil remaining on the inside of the forks, and pull it out.  

[bomber]

you'll never get anywhere near all the old oil out with the turkeybaster routine (you KNOW how I know), but, as a stop-gap measure to get ya through the end of the season, it's certainly better than hosing the monkey

less entertaining, though

[Raphy]

you'll never get anywhere near all the old oil out with the turkeybaster routine (you KNOW how I know)

Tha;s for sure - but the key is to have that stiff pipe in there... even with the groove in the fork tube, i got almost 95% of the oil out... if you just use the rubber bendy tubing only, it won't reach the grooved part of the fortube  

and yes, definately less entertaining than the monkey    

[mxvet57]

Why is it a bad idea?  There's two ways of getting the right amount of fork oil in there - carefully cleaning every last bit of the old stuff out, and measuring the replacement volume and not spilling ANY - or just dumping it in and measuring the resulting level, which is more what you care about anyway.  I don't see why a suction pump wouldn't do a reasonable job of getting 95% of the old oil out.

not true. the dirt and grime collect in the bottom of the forks and that is where the compression valving is located. also remember the internals of the fork is aluminum and that is constantly braking down. some time take your forks apart and let them stand up over night and see how much crap is siting on the bench in the morning. not to mention from the comp. valve to.

BTW, I *have* successfully changed fork seals on my K1200RS without disassembling the forks, so yes it can be done.  

 i stand corrected. i was referring to inverted forks not conventional.

[jed]

If you could get several strong friends and INVERT the motorcycle, it would work fine.  

You don't even need friends.  Rev it to redline and dump the clutch in first.  It'll flip right on over!

[spinmaster]

The best way is to fill the forks with Oil Dry or kitty litter (if you're feeling cheap) to soak up the oil.  Then us a shop vac to suck it all out.  Good luck.



































(this was a joke, don't actually try it )

[1KPerDay]

 

I'm stupid, but not THAT stupid.



BTW how do you change fork SEALS without disassembling the forks? I assume you still had to remove the lowers/sliders from the tubes, right? Or is there some new-fangled 2-piece split fork seal out there?

[kevin_stevens]

 

I'm stupid, but not THAT stupid.



BTW how do you change fork SEALS without disassembling the forks? I assume you still had to remove the lowers/sliders from the tubes, right? Or is there some new-fangled 2-piece split fork seal out there?

Yes, or rather remove the tubes.  Just loosen the triple tube clamps and pull the slider up.  You can do them one at a time and not even lift the front of the bike.  Remember my case is a Telelever front end, it doesn't even have springs or damping rods in there (which is why it @#$$#% me off that I *still* had to deal with oil and leaking seals!!)

KeS

[thatguy]

If the bike has an adjustable fork it has a cartridge.You MUST get all the oil out of the cartridge or it will have the damping of an empty dump truck and you will hit something.Or you could just leave the old oil in there until the fork wears out the bushings and it all leaks out on the front brake rotors and then you'll hit something.They don't have a drain plug for a reason dammit.

[Busy Little Whiner]

BTW how do you change fork SEALS without disassembling the forks? I assume you still had to remove the lowers/sliders from the tubes, right? Or is there some new-fangled 2-piece split fork seal out there?

I do all the time... with my home made two piece fork seal driver...

[Andrew]

Not that I recommend this but

1. Remove the front wheel, so that the fork tubes can be moved individually.
2. Remove the fork caps and springs
3. Use a suction pump to remove as much oil as you can.
4. Add fresh oil to the fork tubes .
5. Push the forks up and then pull down several times (this will get the old oil to mix with the new stuff)
6. Suck out the oil, as much as you can using the suction pump.
7. Repeat steps 4 & 5 & 6 at least two more times or until the oil comes out clean.
8. Fill the forks to proper level.
9. Reinstall the springs, caps and front wheel

You may not have gotten all of the oil, but this should get you through a few more miles.

[LicketySplat]

Ummmm. I'm not sure I get this about "a few more miles..." Like, how often do y'all change your fork oil? Granted on my Sportster I had to change the fork oil every time I changed the engine oil, else there would be an awful wobble in hard corners... but on a modern bike it's good for 10-15K done right, no?