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Topic: Switches?  (Read 1490 times)

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HipGnosis
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« on: September 21, 2007, 06:43:59 AM »

I'm looking for a small switch to put on my bike for my garage door opener.

A bubble/membrane switch would work nicely - I could just glue it to my switch housing, but I don't know where to get one.

I'll also be putting on driving lights and will need a switch for those.

Thanx in advance;  Jim


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« on: September 21, 2007, 06:43:59 AM »

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« Reply #1 on: September 21, 2007, 02:08:26 PM »

Radio Shack or possibly a Marine Supply Store.

Doc
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« Reply #2 on: September 21, 2007, 02:46:55 PM »

Many hardware stores (eg ACE) have rubber switch condoms for toggle switches.  

Garage opener:  Have you though of using no switch?


This is a bit pricier, but its a lot cleaner than drilling holes in bodywork or gluing things.

http://www.autoswitch.com/

http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=ASG

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« Reply #3 on: September 21, 2007, 03:51:54 PM »


Radio Shack or possibly a Marine Supply Store.

Doc


Check out the waterproof Contura switches, from Blue Sea.



But you need to remove a chunk of your fairing to install it, though. (1.45" x 0.83")

http://bluesea.com/category/4/productline/overview/147
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« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2007, 08:17:53 PM »

Corbeau-

Is there somewhere I can order those switches?  I couldn't find an order spot on that website.  One of those would be perfect.
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« Reply #5 on: September 23, 2007, 04:12:03 AM »

RedOnes, you live near a body of water? If so, there must be a marine supply store not to far. Go there, walk in, go to the electrics section and find the display with all the Blue Sea stuff.

Or you can try google.  Bigok
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« Reply #6 on: September 23, 2007, 06:47:27 AM »


RedOnes, you live near a body of water? If so, there must be a marine supply store not to far. Go there, walk in, go to the electrics section and find the display with all the Blue Sea stuff.

Or you can try google.  Bigok


Thanks!  If I tried Google, that would mean I'd have to do some leg (finger?) work, and where's the fun in that? Bigsmile

I tried one marina last year and got a blank stare when I asked for waterproof switches.

I'll try another one (there a re a few around here) and hopefully have better luck.

Thanks again!
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« Reply #6 on: September 23, 2007, 06:47:27 AM »


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« Reply #7 on: September 23, 2007, 07:28:31 AM »

Check this site out. http://electricalconnection.com/

They sell waterproof switches for motorcycles among other things.



http://electricalconnection.com/power-distribution/switch_high-amp.htm

These are the best aftermarket switches we have seen for motorcycle applications since we started toying around with bikes in 1982.   They are rated for 20 amps, NEMA approved for water-resistance, and have large soft-faced rubber paddles which are easy to operate even wearing the largest of winter gloves. 

Standard switch is configuration is on/off.  Also available is on/off/on, momentary on/off, mom on/off/mom on, and DPDT.  Switch colors available are red, amber, green and blue (3 way switches available in red only).

Interlocking mounting bezels (shown above) allow installer to make clean looking installation and have to cut only one hole for multiple switch installation.  Available in end, centeror single positions. 

How to determine how many bezels you need;
For a 1 position mount, use 1 single bezel.
For a 2 position mount, use 2 end bezels.
For a 3 position mount, use 2 end bezels and one center bezel. 

You can fit 3 across any of our >Fairing Replacement Panels (shown above, not included).  In fact, if you order switches with bezels in your panel, we will install them and daisy-chain the grounds at no charge! (Gold Wings only).

Blank panel (shown above on rightposition) allows room for future growth.

« Last Edit: September 23, 2007, 07:30:36 AM by ejworthen » Logged

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« Reply #8 on: September 23, 2007, 01:01:32 PM »


Check this site out. http://electricalconnection.com/

They sell waterproof switches for motorcycles among other things.



http://electricalconnection.com/power-distribution/switch_high-amp.htm

These are the best aftermarket switches we have seen for motorcycle applications since we started toying around with bikes in 1982.   They are rated for 20 amps, NEMA approved for water-resistance, and have large soft-faced rubber paddles which are easy to operate even wearing the largest of winter gloves. 

Standard switch is configuration is on/off.  Also available is on/off/on, momentary on/off, mom on/off/mom on, and DPDT.  Switch colors available are red, amber, green and blue (3 way switches available in red only).

Interlocking mounting bezels (shown above) allow installer to make clean looking installation and have to cut only one hole for multiple switch installation.  Available in end, centeror single positions. 

How to determine how many bezels you need;
For a 1 position mount, use 1 single bezel.
For a 2 position mount, use 2 end bezels.
For a 3 position mount, use 2 end bezels and one center bezel. 

You can fit 3 across any of our >Fairing Replacement Panels (shown above, not included).  In fact, if you order switches with bezels in your panel, we will install them and daisy-chain the grounds at no charge! (Gold Wings only).

Blank panel (shown above on rightposition) allows room for future growth.




Okay, they are exceptionally cool!  Thumbsup
Its just a shame it'll probably cost me about a million pounds in shipping and customs duty to import anything  Crazy
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« Reply #9 on: September 23, 2007, 01:43:40 PM »


I'll also be putting on driving lights and will need a switch for those.


Depending on how you will use the driving lights, you could just wire the lights to the stock handlebar headlight switch.

When I installed my Piaa 1100 driving lights, I used their own micro switch to turn them on and off. But it became cumbersome to turn off both the bike's high beam switch on the left and the Piaa switch on the right. I mainly used the driving lights with my high beams anyways, since they are way too bright for oncoming traffic at night. So what I did was split open the stock headlight switch and soldered the power relay wire to the highbeams. This way the driving lights will turn on and off with one switch.
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« Reply #10 on: September 24, 2007, 02:58:37 AM »



Words and a picture.



Totally farkelicious!  Time to spend some money.....
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« Reply #11 on: September 24, 2007, 06:18:03 AM »

Do you want a momentary or on/off switch? If you just need a momentary switch, I have inventory on small waterproof pushbutton switches that are sealed and built to mil-spec (used on the joystick in jets) we use them in motorsports all the time.



Let me know...
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chornbe

« Reply #12 on: September 24, 2007, 08:52:03 AM »


Do you want a momentary or on/off switch? If you just need a momentary switch, I have inventory on small waterproof pushbutton switches that are sealed and built to mil-spec (used on the joystick in jets) we use them in motorsports all the time.



Let me know...


Ooh. How much? I could use a few of them.
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HipGnosis
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« Reply #13 on: September 24, 2007, 09:30:28 AM »


Do you want a momentary or on/off switch? If you just need a momentary switch, I have inventory on small waterproof pushbutton switches that are sealed and built to mil-spec (used on the joystick in jets) we use them in motorsports all the time.

JUST what I'm looking for! At least for the GDO. How much?

Why (oh why) would a jet joystick button need to be waterproof???
« Last Edit: September 24, 2007, 09:32:07 AM by HipGnosis » Logged

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« Reply #13 on: September 24, 2007, 09:30:28 AM »


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chornbe

« Reply #14 on: September 24, 2007, 09:51:31 AM »



JUST what I'm looking for! At least for the GDO. How much?

Why (oh why) would a jet joystick button need to be waterproof???



Rapid changes in temperature and humidity?
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« Reply #15 on: September 24, 2007, 06:09:45 PM »




Ooh. How much? I could use a few of them.


So what farkle needs a momentary switch? 1500w heated vest?  Lol
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« Reply #16 on: September 24, 2007, 08:21:17 PM »




Depending on how you will use the driving lights, you could just wire the lights to the stock handlebar headlight switch.

When I installed my Piaa 1100 driving lights, I used their own micro switch to turn them on and off. But it became cumbersome to turn off both the bike's high beam switch on the left and the Piaa switch on the right. I mainly used the driving lights with my high beams anyways, since they are way too bright for oncoming traffic at night. So what I did was split open the stock headlight switch and soldered the power relay wire to the highbeams. This way the driving lights will turn on and off with one switch.


That's a really great way to melt your OEM switch.

I'd suggest that you use the wiring to your headlamp (specifically your high-beam, in this case) to trigger a relay feed directly off a fuse block off your battery.  You'll not only get far superior electron flow, but very likely brighter light with less wattage consumption.  

OEM units are designed to pass the bare minimum current, and adding an additional set of lights is a great way to overdraw your wiring's amperage rating.  That results in heat, which generally results in a gooey switch (which is un-good by all accounts).  You've got a great idea, but I'd hate to see a failure that could be easily avoided (and turn out better by slightly altering it in the long run).
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R.Markus

« Reply #17 on: September 24, 2007, 10:37:17 PM »







Just be aware that those switches are huge. They are very nice, though.

West Marine sells those exact same switches by the way.
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« Reply #18 on: September 25, 2007, 03:03:44 AM »



Just be aware that those switches are huge. They are very nice, though.



They look to be the same size as my heated grip switch, which would be perfect.
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« Reply #19 on: September 25, 2007, 03:43:02 AM »

Quote
So what I did was split open the stock headlight switch and soldered the power relay wire to the highbeams. This way the driving lights will turn on and off with one switch.



Quote
That's a really great way to melt your OEM switch.


 Headscratch

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« Reply #20 on: September 25, 2007, 09:12:52 PM »


That's a really great way to melt your OEM switch.

I'd suggest that you use the wiring to your headlamp (specifically your high-beam, in this case) to trigger a relay feed directly off a fuse block off your battery.  You'll not only get far superior electron flow, but very likely brighter light with less wattage consumption.  

OEM units are designed to pass the bare minimum current, and adding an additional set of lights is a great way to overdraw your wiring's amperage rating.  That results in heat, which generally results in a gooey switch (which is un-good by all accounts).  You've got a great idea, but I'd hate to see a failure that could be easily avoided (and turn out better by slightly altering it in the long run).



Actually, that is what I did. I just may not have esplaned it thoroughly.

The Piaa lights are powered by the relay that came with it, through my Blue Sea fuse box. I started with original Piaa switch then wired the relay power wire to the high beam switch, still running through the relay and the Blue Sea fuse box.

It works great.  Bigok
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