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Topic: Dead Bike  (Read 2603 times)

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MarcS
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« Reply #20 on: January 29, 2008, 05:51:28 PM »




I've finally found my Suzuki service manual for the bike so I now know where all the bits and bobs live (ignitor is under the battery in case anyone is wondering). The other good thing is that is has a list of expected voltages and resistance values around various points of the bike. One other thing I need to retest is that I am getting a spark, cylinders 1 and 4 are the same coil (I assumed they were separate) so I now need to test 2 or 3.



That is what I was thinking as well, the trick is to find the corroded connection Wink
Thanks guys, keep the suggestions coming... I'm starting to get withdrawal symptoms  Crazy


I assume that means you have verified ignition for 2 cylinders.

Remember a running (more or less) engine = fuel + ignition + compression.

Ignition in 2 cylinders of a 4 cylinder engine is enough to make the engine seriously cough, if not run.

So you have at least enough ignition to make it cough and probably compression is fine since bike is relatively new.

Have you tried putting alcohol/HEET in your fuel tank, or just draining the entire tank and replacing it with fresh stock? Did you put STA-BIL in the tank before you put her away? Until you have done replaced the gas, it is still a major culprit, and the easiest one to check.  Probably the quickest, and since you'd use the gas anyways, the cheapest.
 
Have you tried the starter fluid? That's the second quickest and still pretty cheap, and it'd identify ignition problems without any disassembly.

Maybe so but it would be nice if you would post that -- because my gut reaction (and perhaps that of others here) is that you are trying too hard to find an electrical gremlin when there are a few simple and oft-occuring possibilities. And if those things DON'T work -- those tests are good indicators that it is a fuel or ignition problem.
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« Reply #20 on: January 29, 2008, 05:51:28 PM »

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Ant
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« Reply #21 on: January 30, 2008, 02:30:56 AM »


I assume that means you have verified ignition for 2 cylinders.

Remember a running (more or less) engine = fuel + ignition + compression.

Ignition in 2 cylinders of a 4 cylinder engine is enough to make the engine seriously cough, if not run.


Nope, no ignition at all.


Update on the bike:
In between dodging rain clouds I've managed to trace the problem out of the engine block. I'm not getting anything from the HT leads so the problem must be futher upstream.


I am happy to be wrong but I honestly can't think of a situation where dodgy fuel would result in no spark from the HT leads!!



Have you tried the starter fluid? That's the second quickest and still pretty cheap, and it'd identify ignition problems without any disassembly.

Maybe so but it would be nice if you would post that -- because my gut reaction (and perhaps that of others here) is that you are trying too hard to find an electrical gremlin when there are a few simple and oft-occuring possibilities. And if those things DON'T work -- those tests are good indicators that it is a fuel or ignition problem.


I have posted everything I have tried and the results of the tests Headscratch

Anyway, another couple of things to scratch off the list is that the switches on the side stand and gear position indicator are working correctly. Unfortunately I'm going to be busy this weekend an unable to work on the bike any more after this evening until next week. Sigh.
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« Reply #22 on: January 30, 2008, 04:28:49 AM »

Could you outline how you performed the tests on the ignition? It might help others give you a direction to go next. Not being familar with the bike or having a schemactic makes anything I might add a shot in the dark, but that never stopped me. LOL

If you are absolutely certain that you have no spark on any of the cylinders then my next step(s) would be:

1) Check the crank sensor and associated wiring (if the bike has one?)

2) With the ignition on, manually trip the coils primary circuit to see if you get a spark.

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« Reply #23 on: February 01, 2008, 05:16:54 PM »




I have posted everything I have tried and the results of the tests Headscratch

Anyway, another couple of things to scratch off the list is that the switches on the side stand and gear position indicator are working correctly. Unfortunately I'm going to be busy this weekend an unable to work on the bike any more after this evening until next week. Sigh.


I apologize, I have seen others with problems who have not been complete in their description of what is going on. And I apparently misread your post, and thought you were saying you DID have spark, when you in fact don't. I blame the drink.  

At this point I would probably start tearing down the electrical system from the engine back, performing every diagnostic in the shop manual. Like Windblown said, it could be a crank position sensor, but it could pretty much be anything. And when you reassemble, use dielectric grease to prevent water penetration in the future.
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« Reply #24 on: February 03, 2008, 12:46:08 AM »


Could you outline how you performed the tests on the ignition? It might help others give you a direction to go next.


what he said.

Its extremely rare for a bike to lose ignition just from sitting.  Corrosion of a contacts/connection might be a possibility, or mice eating wires.  But its just not a likely issue, so I have heavy doubts also about the direction you're going.

That doesn't mean you're wrong of course, but I've seen way too many people chase their tail after jumping to wrong conclusions/not testing stuff correctly.

But if you're positive you don't have spark, its like any bike.  Should have constant power going to the coil, and the ground side is switched.  Both are fed by the module.  Start there and work your way back.  Start with outputs, then check inputs.
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« Reply #25 on: February 07, 2008, 11:24:28 AM »

Mumble....mumble...mumble....

I hate electrical crap. Passionately hate it, so I'm still betting on a dead battery.

It's an easy (and inexpensive) replacement.

Zombie batteries can really fool a guy.
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« Reply #26 on: February 08, 2008, 12:43:08 PM »

For what it's worth.  Several years ago on my first ride out to Robbinsville on my V Max (don't laugh...it was prior to my ZZR) I ran into major rain storm.  Drove many miles in torrential rain.  Next day after coming off the dragon I went to pass a truck and the bike just died completely and suddenly.  I went through all the diagnostics and found no spark.  I knew it wasn't coil related because the bike has two.  Checked all connections and they appeared OK.  I was very frustrated at this point and decided to try starting again.  It started right up.  I put everything back together and drove off.  Within a mile or two it died again.  Again after resting for a few minutes it started again.  I did this several more times hoping it would eventually keep going.  No luck.  I suspected the ignition computer.  I had the bike towed to Wheeler's Garage and explained my calculus.  Ken Wheeler took the bike in and found that the factory seal around the main computer had failed and much moisture on the pc board.  After a day in the sun and several doses of water displacing chemical, the bike started and remained running.  After confirming that the bike ran continually for at least 2 hours, I felt confident we had beat the problem.  Very important because it was a long way back to MA.  Ken resealed the computer with a factory sealant and the bike has run flawlessly since.

PS: Ken Wheeler did a great job and pricing was more than fair.
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« Reply #26 on: February 08, 2008, 12:43:08 PM »


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Ant
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« Reply #27 on: February 12, 2008, 02:47:26 AM »

Sorry I haven't replied to any of the suggestions that have been made in the past couple of days. I have been busy with work and not had chance to play with the bike.

Anyway, I called the RAC (breakdown cover) today under my "home start" agreement. "Yes nice man, I just came to start it this morning and boom - nothing. No I haven't been trying for the past month, no not at all" Smile
He confirmed that it was ignition related and that there was no switching for the coils happening at all so he has called me a tow truck to take it to a garage.
I've reached the point where I just want a working bike and I don't have time at the moment to spend diagnosing issues Sad

I'm just happy that I wasn't made to look a fool by him tracing the problem to the fuel system, my diagnostic skills are upheld! Lol By the way I have checked all of the safety systems such as side stand and gear position sensor so they aren't the problem. The RAC guy reckoned it was either the crank sensor or the ECU Shrug

I'll let you know what the garage says when they have had chance to look at it.
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« Reply #28 on: February 12, 2008, 04:18:07 AM »

My money is on a stuck relay, or coroded earth.
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« Reply #29 on: February 12, 2008, 07:56:29 PM »

Hope it all works out for you Ant Thumbsup
In the past I have had to fix a bike I have owned, and all I wanted to do was ride it and no time to do the repairs. It was the pits.
Looking forward to hear what the bike shop says.
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« Reply #30 on: February 27, 2008, 09:58:49 AM »

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
IT LIIIIIIIIIIIIVES Banana Banana Banana Banana Banana Banana Banana Banana Banana

Phoned me at around 1 to say it was done, I went over by 2 to get it back and by 6 I had done 200 miles Bigsmile Oh man does it feel gooooooood.

All it took was a complete replacement of the wiring harness  Crazy Still not quite sure where in the harness the problem was but the guy reckons it just got wet or something and corroded. He's greased up every single little connector on the bike now and everything works like a charm.
And the best bit of all? It was all done under warranty, god bless you Suzuki Inlove Beerchug
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« Reply #31 on: February 28, 2008, 11:52:52 AM »

Great , AND UNDER WARRENTY  Beerchug
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