Major Upgrades, part 2 of 3
Part two of this is the front suspension upgrades. This is a multi-faceted job. I purchased the Race-Tech Gold Valve kit and springs. The Race-Tech comes with instructions on how best to adjust the valve, which oil to use, spring preload spacer sizes, etc. In my case, I was also replacing both lower fork sliders because my Sportster only came with disc brakes on one side. Part 3 will be the full front brake upgrade, and a new right-side slider is part of that. I purchased both new sliders in black; black is cool. So aside from the fork work for the suspension upgrades, they had to come apart for new sliders anyway.
frontsuspension_0001.jpg - The disassembly was done earlier, so these pictures only show reassembly, and only on one side of the forks. The first side was a walk-through, seeing what should be photographed and what not.
So... we started with fork tubes. Shown here is one upper-end and one lower-end.
frontsuspension_0002.jpg - Shown here - fork tube caps, top-out springs, damper-rod seating bushings, damper-rod piston rings and damper-rod mounting bolt copper washers. I tossed the mounting bolts since I replaced them with new ones. They fought me pretty good coming out and I buggered up the bolt head a little bit running them out with my impact gun.
frontsuspension_0003.jpg - The damper rods had to be modified by drilling more holes. I ended up with 6 holes total, each being 5/16-inch diameter. The Race-Tech instruction page calls for "at least 6 holes, at least 1/4-inch each".
The damper rods were drilled, then deburred with a hand file, deburring tool and some emory cloth.
frontsuspension_0004.jpg - Reassebly starts with reinstalling the damper-rod pison ring and the top-out spring. This spring cushions the forks internally if they should happen to "top out" (become fully extended).
frontsuspension_0005.jpg - The damper rod is reinstalled into the fork tube, fed through the bottom, then the damper rod seating bushing is slipped on the end.
frontsuspension_0006.jpg - The fork tube and bushing-seated damper rod is installed into the fork slider. Lightly coating the tube and bushing helps ease assembly.
frontsuspension_0007.jpg - Run the fork tube all the way in. Be sure to keep the assembly from tipping down so the damper rod seating bushing doesn't come off.
frontsuspension_0008.jpg - The damper rod retaining bolt should be installed using removeable-type thread lock.
frontsuspension_0009.jpg - Start the bolt by hand to prevent cross-threading.
frontsuspension_0010.jpg - Tighten the bolt fully using an impact gun to ensure a quick run-in, thus preventing the damper rod from spinning over and over.
frontsuspension_0011.jpg - Once the damper rod is fastened, seat the slider's upper bushing and retaining washer.
frontsuspension_0012.jpg - Do not try to seat the bushing directly; use the retaining washer to push the bushing in.
frontsuspension_0013.jpg - Use the proper tool if available, otherwise a section of 1-1/2 inch PVC pipe works perfectly. Use it like a slide-hammer; slide the pipe up and then push it straight back down forcefully. Doing this several times will result in a fully-seated bushing without damage.
frontsuspension_0014.jpg -
frontsuspension_0015.jpg - This picture illustrates that the bushing and retaining washer are fully seated in leaving room for the seal and spring clip.
frontsuspension_0016.jpg - Next the seal goes in. Again, if possible, use the correct tool to minimize the possibility of damage to the seal. The same section of PVC pipe can be used if the seal-press isn't available.
frontsuspension_0017.jpg - Pour in just enough oil to pump the fork a few times and bleed out the air bubbles, then drop the gold valve in to top of the damper rod. You may need to use the spring to run down the tube and seat the gold valve.
frontsuspension_0018.jpg - Pour in the remaining oil to the proper level. Your Race-Tech kit will have instructions which includes the suggested oil level for your application. MIne was 160mm.
frontsuspension_0019.jpg - As it turns out, my old Memphis Shades adjusting t-handle hex tool just happens to be right around 160mm from the end to the lower-end of the yellow band. I had to slide the band about 2mm. The oil should just touch the end when the fork is fully compressed.
frontsuspension_0020.jpg - Install the spring after fully extending the fork. Do so slowly so as not to unseat the gold valve.
frontsuspension_0021.jpg - The Race-Tech kit comes with instructions to figure out what length to cut your spacer. In my case, 144mm is considered optimum.
frontsuspension_0022.jpg - Run the tube cap on and tighten it "hand tight" to retain the spring and spacer.
frontsuspension_0023.jpg - Next, run the dust shield down on top of the seal. It will seat in just above the seal and will be a snug fit. I prefer to do this step after installing the spring and capping the fork tube, IF the fork cap permits.
frontsuspension_0024.jpg - My bike also has a "beauty ring" that goes down over the dust shield. It's a press fit, so I used the PVC pipe again to push it down into place.
frontsuspension_0025.jpg - We then ran the fork tubes up into the tree, and tightened them just enough to fully tighten the fork tube cap. Use the correct-size wrench to avoid damage to the fork tube cap.
frontsuspension_0026.jpg - Then run the fork tubes up into their proper position and torque the pinch bolts (30-35lbs in the case of my bike).
frontsuspension_0027.jpg - Next I installed the wheel. Clean and lightly re-grease the axle.
frontsuspension_0028.jpg - On my bike, the fender goes on after the wheel. Other bikes differ.
frontsuspension_0029.jpg - Pull the bike off the jack, verify all fasteners are property torqued.
frontsuspension_0030.jpg - ROAD TEST! It's dark, cold, windy and raining right now. Full review to follow.
