Need help with lowering an R1100R

[1KPerDay]

My dad wants to try this. What needs to happen? I assume there's something like a dogbone/link for the rear... what about the front? Can you just put in shorter fork springs and reduce the preload in the shock? Any specifics/links/info would be greatly appreciated.

thanks

[bikerfish1100]

Telelever front end- get a shorter front shock, that's about it. Wilbers, Ohlins, probably others. Rear end- go with the longest paralever strut he can find (no idea who has one that is longer than stock, but that's what he needs). Also, a shorter than std length shock can help (again, Wilbers or Ollies, maybe some others). Also a custom seat can help. My g/f is 5'3", and rides a R1100S- shorter Ollies in front and rear, seat by Rick Mayer, and she's okay with reaching the ground (i think about 8 of 10 toes are on solid surface).  

[1KPerDay]

Thanks. I'll look into the shocks...
There isn't a dogbone or something for the rear shock linkage?

I guess not too many people drag-race the 1100R.

[bikerfish1100]

I ride a R11S, so can't say 100% for sure on a R11R, but i do believe (and all pics i could find in my Clymer's manual seem to confirm) that shocks on all oilheads are a direct bolt up to the swingarm at bottom, and frame at top.

[1KPerDay]

Thanks.

[Zen Rider]

Think Performance Works Shocks - you can order them 2" lower, IIRC.

I had them on a R1150RT.  

Parts:  around $800.00.  Install???

The Performance Works shocks, although better than OEM shocks, are not near the measure of the Ohlins; however, they're cheaper (about 1/2 the cost Ohlins).  


Also, lowering the suspension obviously limits the travel of the shock: ergo, when riding two up, they do "bottom out" on occasions.    

[bikerfish1100]

install free, you do it yorself (just about caveman easy). Wilber & Ollies cost more, but you get much more performance from them. depends upon how discriminating a rider daddy is. and what kinda coin he's got floating around for upgrades.

[1KPerDay]

Think Performance Works Shocks - you can order them 2" lower, IIRC.

I had them on a R1150RT.  

Parts:  around $800.00.  Install???

The Performance Works shocks, although better than OEM shocks, are not near the measure of the Ohlins; however, they're cheaper (about 1/2 the cost Ohlins).  


Also, lowering the suspension obviously limits the travel of the shock: ergo, when riding two up, they do "bottom out" on occasions.    

Thanks... I had Works on my Harley. Good stuff. He won't be riding 2-up.

My dad's attitude is, anything that's cheaper than a new bike. So it would seem a set of new shocks wouldn't be out of the question. If I replace the front shock, do I have to do anything about the fork springs?

[bikerfish1100]

fork springs? the fook you talking about, fork springs? we don't need no steenking fork springs, this bike gotz Telelever!!! (a Clymer's manual might be a damn good idea tho).

[1KPerDay]

fork springs? the fook you talking about, fork springs? we don't need no steenking fork springs, this bike gotz Telelever!!!

D'oheth... I thought they still had low-rate springs in the forks for... some reason.
He's got a manual around somewhere...

[Lawn Dart]

Hey 1k,

Just how short IS your Dad?

You know that BMW make a low seat option, right?  Takes about 1" off the overall height.  Also, make sure the seat is in the low position on the bike.

Honestly, unless your dad is sub-5'2", he should be able to make it work without needing to change the suspension up.  And a whole lot cheaper to boot.

Final note:  if you make that radical a change, you may well find that the kickstand and c-stand are now useless and need to be changed as well.

[1KPerDay]

Hey 1k,

Just how short IS your Dad?

Oh, I'd guess he's about 5'9" and shrinking... was about 6'. He has fused vertebrae, replaced hips and a knee, cancer and a few other problems. I think he could ball-of-the-feet it but only on flat, good asphalt and he frequenly rides long distances in crappy conditions. He doesn't feel stable and doesn't really have the leg strength to muscle it around very much. So any decrease in seat height (not to mention CG) will be helpful.

[Lawn Dart]

Oh, I'd guess he's about 5'9" and shrinking... was about 6'. He has fused vertebrae, replaced hips and a knee, cancer and a few other problems. I think he could ball-of-the-feet it but only on flat, good asphalt and he frequenly rides long distances in crappy conditions. He doesn't feel stable and doesn't really have the leg strength to muscle it around very much. So any decrease in seat height (not to mention CG) will be helpful.

Ok, my wife is 5'4" with a short inseam.  I'm 5'8" / 30" inseam.  We were over at Seaver BMW yesterday playing around...

Anyway, R1200R bone stock with LOW seat:  I can flat foot it comfortably.  My wife can get easily get the balls of her feet on the ground.  Further, she was in a near upright riding position.

IMO, go the low low seat option first.  I'm pretty sure there are factory low seats for the R11R - that's going to be the fastest, cheapest and least intensive way to drop the ride height.

For what it's worth, let's chat about technique for a minute.  A lot of people move a bike around while straddling the bike.  I gave up on that years ago and move bikes around "sidesaddle".  I find it far, far more comfortable and confidence building to move a bike that way than to move a bike while sitting on it.

[HankB]

For what it's worth, let's chat about technique for a minute.  A lot of people move a bike around while straddling the bike.  I gave up on that years ago and move bikes around "sidesaddle".  I find it far, far more comfortable and confidence building to move a bike that way than to move a bike while sitting on it.

SWMBO has to get off the bike to move it. She's on the short side of 5' 0" and rides a lowered F650CS. Before she went to that, she had a Suzuki GZ250 (think little cruiser.) She knew she wanted something bigger so she started practicing stops with left foot down and right foot on the peg. She shifts the 'down' foot if she needs to put the bike in neutral and almost never has both feet on the ground at the same time.

-hank

[dbduchene]

I would start by going to the factory low seat and these Boots
http://www.helimot.com/shopexd.asp?id=74
I Have a good friend that is 5'3'' tall and she rides that bike with the low seat. At his height he should have no problem with the height doing this and well still have good ground clearance. If he finds his legs getting cramped there are several pegs that can be used to lower the pegs 1.5 inches I well find them if you need. The low seat and these boots well gain him over 2 inches If needed you can get a little bit more by building up the heels 3/8 of a inch. So in short he can gain 2 and a half to 3 inches with out major mods to the bike.
Denis D