Shorty levers, ugggg

[denisep]

I had a set of Yana Shiki shorty levers put on Saturday with the hope that they would lessen the pull reach on the clutch side and some discomfort I'd been having.

I am now 150% worse, the clutch lever seems even "tighter" and even though it's closer, I have to choke up to the top of the bar to grab the lever.  The position is very unnatural and uncomfortable.

What in god's name have I done??  

I'm figuring I'll call in there Tuesday when the shop opens back up and see if we can order the "long" size levers (still adjustable) and see if that's better.  

2 other problems have come up since the install...

1)  I can't start the bike unless it's in neutral  (I assume they screwed something up)

2)  My bars are now giving off tons more vibration and my hands are going numb-- no clue how this can be related to the levers, but it just started after the lever switch.

If anyone has ever had problems after a shorty installation, or if you have any ideas, I would appreciate some advice.

The guys at the shop acted like they had never seen or installed shorties before..    (yes, I see how that could be a problem)  

[thatguy]

Many aftermarket levers do not fit correctly and cause problems such as yours.Hate to say it but install the stockers and sell the shorty levers on eBay.And remember high school physics?The shorter lever requires more force for the same result.

[GooseMan]

You should be able to start the bike any time the clutch is pulled in. There is a little switch behind/below the clutch lever that is activated by the lever. Since you put on different levers, it might not be making proper contact, so check it out

I never understood the whole "shorty" lever thing. With a shorter lever, doesnt that mean you will need MORE leverage than a long lever?  

I've also noticed the bars on my ZZR vibrate quite a bit, since its a pretty buzzy bike. I've installed a set of heavy bar end weights from HVMP http://www.hvmp.com/ , and it cured 80% of the buzziness. Another thing I've added as a Crampbuster (AKA Throttle Rocker) to alleviate some of the buzz in my right hand.

[Fourstring]

I've found the shorty Pazzo levers to have a nice pull.  It feels like there's an extra cam in the assembly that eases clutch pull.

For yours?  Yeah, I'd move it back to stock.

[denydog]

Pazzo short levers work great on my BMW, but different strokes, etc...

The long BMW levers, even though adjustable, were too long of a reach.  And since I was using only two or three fingers on the inward portion of the levers in any case, the short versions of the Pazzo's were a natural.  I can't say for sure whether they require less effort, but they might.  If you need all five fingers to pull the lever, then long levers are mandatory.

After shortening the travel, I did have to adjust the clutch safety switch to allow starting in gear.

[motoguy128]

I have fiarly small hands.  I fidn I use all five fingers on hte clutch, but only 2 for the brake.  I have mine adjsuted as clsoe as possible and I'm pretty happy.  No issues.  

Sometimes the problem is the positon of the bars and the angle of your wrists.  My ZX9R used to KILL my hands.  At hte endo of a long day, I could barely pull in the clutch at all.  I've almost stalled it at a few stoplights.  My F4i OTOH, was no problem.  


Maybe the control just need to be rotated upward.  Maybe some aftermarket clip-ons would help more.  Or drill a new locating hole for the controls (prevents them from rotating) and change the position.  

+1 on heavier bar end weights I also ALWAYS added Gel grips to all my sportbikes.

[Cricket1]

Spell checker to Aisle 5!!  

I put Piazzo regulars on the Sprint, and they are much better than the stockers. I went with the regulars because of my concern that the shorties would be more effort than the stock levers. Maybe I could have gone with a short brake lever and long clutch, but that would have looked weird. Just like denydog said, there is something about the Piazzo's that make them seem to require less effort. Maybe the shape itself?

Denise- maybe dump the Yana Shikis for some Pazzos??

[DJStevieB]

Spelling mess on Aisle 6!

I installed a set of Pazzo levers on my ZX-14. IMHO, always get the normal size for the clutch. The brake lever will be determined by what your braking feels like. I went with the shorty because the ZX-14 brakes are super, and I always one finger them. My FJR is another story.

[denisep]

I'm going to call this morning-- I'm not having ANY trouble with the short brake lever, it's perfect.

The clutch is killing me--- I tend to sprawl that hand down thru the grip and need a longer lever.  

[carpe_diem]

The ZZR clutch switch is notoriously crappy. Its easy to fix (just pull if off the handlebar, clean and reinstall). Check the Kawasaki forums for detailed instructions.

[JamesG]

Loosen the clutch perch (the bracket the clutch lever bolts to) and slide it as far away from the hand grip as you can.  
Adjust the lever so that its as close to the bar as possible (setting "1" or "2").
Now tighten the cable adjuster so that the "Friction point" where the clutch starts to grab or release is really close to fully out on the lever.

This will improve your leverage on the lever while allowing you control it with a minimum of effort and hand strain. You will probably have to get used to the different clutch feel though. It will be much more sensitive when feathering or letting out the clutch (There is no free lunch).

Hope that helps.

[bomber]

could be that the new levers aren't closing the switch when the lever is pulled in . . . . .

on the effort front, it's a zero sum game -- a shorter lever will increase the amount of effort needed to move the clutch parts around . . . . . . effort and closeness to the grip are two different things -- the clutch itself needs to move at least X amount to disengage (whether its a ball and ramp setup, or a lever sticking out of the engine case -- makes no never mind, some minimum amount of movement is needed) -- if you get the lever to some point away from the grip, there will not be anough travel to disengage the clutch . . . .

check the adjustment method(s) for your bike -- there are generally specs for freeplay at the lever, as well as free play at the engine end of the cable -- monkeying around with these clearances can often get things to a sweet spot that allows you to enjoy riding more --

the shorty levers are likely gonna wind up being hung on the pegboard in the garage at the end of the game, though --

[denisep]

the shorty levers are likely gonna wind up being hung on the pegboard in the garage at the end of the game, though --

very true...   or at least for sale on a forum board at a greatly reduced price..   they've ordered a new longer clutch lever-- I'm keeping the brake one.  

[JamesG]

a shorter lever will increase the amount of effort needed to move the clutch parts around . . . . . . effort and closeness to the grip are two different things

That is not an accurate statement.  
The length of the lever is irrelevant. Its where you grab it and apply force that matters. Near the end of a short one or mid-way on a long one is about the same as far as the ammount of force is concerned.  The shape of the lever only matters in where they put the notch, but doesn't mean you HAVE to grab it there.

-- the clutch itself needs to move at least X amount to disengage... if you get the lever to some point away from the grip, there will not be anough travel to disengage the clutch.

Most clutches only have a inch or so "wide" friction zone from fully in to fully out, the rest of the lever's travel is "wasted" adjustment room.

the shorty levers are likely gonna wind up being hung on the pegboard in the garage at the end of the game, though --

{shrug} Didn't nessissarily have to be...

[bomber]

James -- you're right, of course -- the amount of distance away from the pivot where you apply force is what determines the amount of effort needed to move the lever, and, therefor, disengage the clutch -- I had oversimplified my statement, figuring that most folks would compare the effort needed from the end of both levers being compared . . . . . . .

however, if less effort to disengage the clutch is what one is after, using a shorter lever is likely not going to give that result, unless, as you correcly point out, one applies force further from the pivot on the shortie lever than one does on the stocker -- it this case, of course, the method of use is what makes the difference, not the length of the lever

[denisep]

the problem is that when I grab, my natural hand placement puts me grabbing the little ball thing at the end and causing obvious pain.

I can adjust my hand position, but not comfortably, therefore the only other option is to go with a different lever.  

I just can't believe that I'm the only person who has ever bought these shorty levers and had ergonomic issues--- but, then again, that's my luck.

I just can't see keeping them when they make me miserable.  

[JamesG]

Where do you grab the hand grips?  In the middle or up against the inside edge?

Even with the shorties you should have enough lever to get 2 or 3 fingers on the flat part of it.

[tangledclown]

try the pazzos...i have them on my zrx and busa and would not be without them

[motoguy128]

Maybe a dumb question, but why do you need a shorter clutch lever?  Why not just use all 4 fingers on it.  There nothing else for the left had to do anyway.  Now if you're a racer, you may want the extra grip and only use 2 fingers.  I thnk I recall some on-board cam shots of Hayden and Rossi, and they used 2 or 3 fingers on the clutch, same as the throttle.  They had full length levers... carbon fibre of course.  Their levers look unusually wide for better grip.

Spell check?  Come on... all the letters where there, just in the wrong order.  I think I need ot get my hands re-synched.

[denisep]

Maybe a dumb question, but why do you need a shorter clutch lever?

good question.....

when I called to have new levers ordered, I specified that I needed something that was easier/lighter to pull in.  My hands were cramping from the stock levers.  The shorty adjustable sports levers were what they ordered for me to try to fix my problem.  I think they thought it would be a lighter pull-- and it might be for some.   I reach out and pull in with my three middle fingers, but my middle finger reaches out and hits the round, balled end of the lever now, and I can't get a grip without moving my hand over to the right.

I should have used some common sense and vetoed the shorty levers.  I do like the one on the brake side though-- no issues with it.