Advice for a first time ride in Italy

[DrD]

Dot and I are taking an Edelweiss tour in Italy (Tour of Tuscany) in October.  Although we have lots of riding experience in the US (though far less than some stn'ers), we have not ridden in Europe.  So, what can you experienced riders advise us about riding in Italy?

BTW, I know there are other ways to arrange a riding tour in Europe, but this is our first time and Edelweiss appears to run their tours well.

[ninjadad66]

All I can say is you're going to have a blast and don't forget the memory card for your camera. Riding in Europe, especially in the Alps will be very intense. Be ready to have all your senses overloaded with sights of wonderful mountain landscapes with endless switchbacks, sounds of motorcycles carving the trails, and smells that will make your mouth water.

Although intense, you'll be on a controlled tour so I'm sure they will keep you away from the tricky stuff. Come with an open mind and the desire to travel, you're in for the ride of your life.....Don't worry if you miss something, after your first tour, you'll be back .

[greench440]

Edelweiss is a great way to go for first timers.    There are few traffic rules in Italy, lane splitting is expected, speed limit is more like reasonable and prudent.  My experience is that people drive agressively, but with respect and expect the same from you.

The guides will give you a good briefing about what to expect each morning and you can have as much or as little care as you want.

Expect outstanding food just about anywhere as most places are family run.

[Daniel Kalal]

While you have likely heard how aggressive the native riders can be--passing into blind corners, lane splitting without adequate room, ignoring lane markings--this is an instance where you do not need to "do in Rome."  Go ahead and stay behind the car in front if you; you needn't squeeze ahead, even if everybody else is doing it.  Don't feel the need to ride like an Italian, if you don't feel comfortable.

Depending on where you tour guide will lead you, you will probably be on plenty of roads that are quite narrow.  Maintain your side of the road as cars will appear around the corner without much warning.  And, you might also consider the history of these roads.  you will find that the curves do not maintain a constant radius.  These roads were put down as cart trails, so they do not follow more modern road building guidelines.  Many roads in the US were built from scratch as auto roads.  That's not the case in Italy.

Paving stones and cobblestones are very common in towns.  These can be pretty slippery when wet, so don't think of the roads has only being a little bumpy.  Slow down.

Be wary of those three-wheel utility trucks.  They're small and gutless and don't seem to bother with what might be around them.  Pass them quickly, and get away.

If you stop for lunch, you should plan on being there for a couple of hours.  Things move slowly.  That's fine.

Parking on the sidewalk is generally the way to go.

Be sure to do a lot of walking.  In the hills you'll see trails leading away from the road.  These will take you to the next village, or perhaps to an ancient shrine--which are seemingly on the top of every crest.

[Orson]

My first tour of Europe was with Edelweiss. It's a good way to get your feet wet. They do a pretty good job  

My advice would be to try to ride alone as much as possible. You'll feel free to stop for photo opportunities without the self-imposed pressure of keeping up with the group.

While you have likely heard how aggressive the native riders can be--passing into blind corners, lane splitting without adequate room, ignoring lane markings--this is an instance where you do not need to "do in Rome."  Go ahead and stay behind the car in front if you; you needn't squeeze ahead, even if everybody else is doing it.  Don't feel the need to ride like an Italian, if you don't feel comfortable.

Excellent advice Daniel  

Italian driving is all about machismo   If you're not riding the bumper and trying to pass the car in front of you, this somehow reflects on your lack of virility   As Daniel says, if you're not comfortable, pull over and let them by.

My first lesson on Italian riding was handed to me by a moped-riding, capri pants-wearing, Italian teenage girl. I was dutifully following a city bus, waiting for a proper place to pass, when she straddled the center line and passed both of us   Lesson learned; you don't have to plod along behind slower traffic. Pass anywhere   At construction hold ups, motorcycles lane split to the front of the line and nobody says anything  

Many gas stations in Italy close for lunch from 11:30 to about 2:30 or 3:00. I try to fill up at around 11:00 whether I need to or not. While Italy does have more and more convenience stores that stay open, don't count on finding one when you need it  

If you get lost in a big city, look for signs reading CENTRO. This will take you to the center of town, where you are bound to see signs pointing you in the direction you want to go. Blue signs indicate autostradas, green signs indicate secondary roads.

On secondary roads, the road numbers you see on your map, most likely you will not see on the road. Sometimes the most you will see is a sign indicating the next town 20 kilometers away. You just thread your way from one town to the next in this manner. What you read on the map versus road signage can be a challenge. A town on the map might be shown as V. di Lunigiana, where as the road sign simply shows Villafranca   Try not to get frustrated about getting lost. You will get lost. Make the best of it. You are in Italy on a motorcycle. How bad can that be?  

If you stop for lunch, you should plan on being there for a couple of hours.  Things move slowly.  That's fine.

I'm guilty of wanting to ride, ride, ride and have been known to make a sandwich from the hotel breakfast buffet   The longer you stay in Italy though, the more assimilated you become and you begin to appreciate the pace of life where nothing is as important than a nice leisurely meal finished off with an espresso  

The primi plati is usually a soup or pasta dish, this is followed by the main course. You can skip the primi plati if you want to. Just point at anything on the menu   Chances are, it will be excellent. The waiter won't bring you the check, as most Italians enjoy lingering over their meal (nowhere to go & no hurry to get there). You have to ask for the check when you're finished.

Italians don't eat dinner until 8:00 P.M. which kills me as I'm starving by 6:00 P.M.  

Try to avoid cafe americano, as this is bitter, poor quality coffee. Ask for cappuccino in the morning.

I'm not sure, but I think it might be a crime to eat at a McDonalds while in Italy  

[Aero]

 Just point at anything on the menu   Chances are, it will be excellent.

Excellent advice from Daniel and Orson, but although you can be sure of excellent food I was caught out once when I couldn't see anything familiar on a menu so took a chance on something which sounded interesting. I should have caught the hint when the waiter looked puzzled by my choice, I should have asked for his suggestion or just ordered the piatto del giorno, but I didn't, and when it came I realised that it was a huge platter of mixed meat dishes intended for a large group of people. Feeling like a fool, I ordered a salad and ate what I could of the meat feast and put some of it between pieces of bread to enjoy later. It was all delicious but far too much for me! After that I made it my mission to learn a little more Italian, and to ask the waiter when in doubt!
You will have a blast!

[Baron Samedi]

 just remember to ride on the wrong side of the road.

[DrD]

You guys ROCK!!     Thanks a lot for the advice and the assurance.  Gosh, I want to leave now.

[Dot]

Yes, from the other half going to Italy a week from Thursday! Thanks for the advice. Anyone ever have to deal with celiac disease while over there? We think it is much less of an issue than here in the states, but since you've all been so great at responding, just thought I'd ask (celiac disease is the auto-immune response to gluten). Thanks again!

[FJR-UK]

Celiac disease? Pasta is an Italian staple. You better learn the Italian for the words relevant to your dietary needs, as even English-speaking Italians may not know what you're talking about. Fortunately, there is plenty of meat and fish on Italian menus.

Driving? Everything you've ever heard about Italian drivers is probably true. They are aggressive (that goes for both sexes) but usually pretty skillful.

If there is a gap in front of you, no matter how small, it will be filled by whoever is behind you. It doesn't matter if they are driving a Fiat Cinquecento, or a Vespa, you will be passed. It's nothing personal, but they like to show (especially foreigners) how to drive properly. This applies whether you are in a city or the Dolomites.

Approach blind corners great caution and well clear of the center line, remembering of course that they do drive on the wrong side of the road.  

Study the international road signs: http://www.nsa.naples.navy.mil/GaetaFFSC/Italian%20and%20International%20Road%20Signs.htm

Lay back and enjoy a wonderful country.

[Global Rider]

Although we have lots of riding experience in the US, we have not ridden in Europe.  So, what can you experienced riders advise us about riding in Italy?

You'll be riding in an organized group, so you shouldn't have to worry about anything.

BUT if you have a vehicle right on your butt, don't take it personal as so many North Americans do. With straights only being so long, a car can't hang off your rear by hundreds of feet and be expected to make a pass.

You full lane may be your full lane back home. Over there, if you can make room or don't need it all, you do so.

Don't take driving personal as so many do here. They're not trying to kill you, but they do expect you to be clued in, decisive and assertive.

Too bad you're paying twice as much as you have to for that tour.  

[Mr Sunshine]

I wish I could spend the time to type a bunch of helpful hints but I can't.

What I can say is this.  Enjoy your time.  Slow down and let things live.  You have no where to go and everything is new and exciting.

I got lost in Italy following Ant.  It was a little annoying at first mostly because I wasn't sure how far away we were from the night's destination (which we had reservations) and it was late afternoon.  I quickly cleared that out of my head and it was most likely one of the best days of the entire trip.

[Smurfslayer]

I was in Italy with the wife in July.  Switzerland, & Germany too ;-)

The driving went from respectful in Switzerland to aggressive in southern Switzerland heading to Italy to a downright free-for-all in Italy.  Coming into Bergamo, some nutter on a scooter tried to ride up inside of us IN A ROUNDABOUT.  He or she was unsuccessful; unless they were only trying to show us their front wheel like Rossi  

Seriously though, previous commenters are eerily correct about pace, gas stations and being passed.  A lot of folks say that there is a great deal of anti-American sentiment in Germany, Austria, Italy & Switzerland but _everyone_ we met, interacted with and dealt with in Europe was just as nice and hospitable as they could be.  Some went way above and beyond - 4 Italians actually.  

Our first day in Italy was hot, sticky, slow going and frustrating riding.  I was ready to retreat after only a few hours.  As luck would have it the wife would not budge from her position that she was going to see Venice whether I wanted to or not   so we toughed it out.  I'm glad we did, and I hope to make it back soon.
   

[Busy Little Whiner]

My advice is...  Get ready to go 90 MPH with your hair on fire everywhere... Italy is the land of fast
movers... the only slow movers are Orson on vacation... after all the first rule of Italian riding is "it
doesn't matter whatsa behind you"


The only time I ride Ducati... they have the status... pictured are the Hills above Verona...

[Global Rider]

Coming into Bergamo, some nutter on a scooter tried to ride up inside of us IN A ROUNDABOUT. He or she was unsuccessful; unless they were only trying to show us their front wheel like Rossi  

Why, did you employ the typical North American driving style where "I'm going this fast and nobody is supposed to pass me"?

The difference there is, they're not racing, although most North Americans driving/riding in Europe seem to think so.

Thats why I like driving in Europe. Everybody is just doing their own thing and short pecker syndrome never or very rarely comes into play.

[Smurfslayer]

Certainly not.  He had no room to pass, the inside he sought was an 'island'.  We weren't dawdling for sure.  I made room for him or her at the exit.  Some of the scooteristi seemed to either hog the inside or hog the outside in the roundabouts.  I noticed several hold tight to the inside of the roundabout, then dart for the 'exit' sometimes to a cagers lament.      

[Busy Little Whiner]

Thats why I like driving in Europe. Everybody is just doing their own thing and short pecker syndrome never or very rarely comes into play.

True... no one judges your riding over in Europe... if you can go quick then bravo for you... it's a lot like
Woodstock... do your own thing...

[Orson]

make no mistake...to be passed in Italy, Spain or Portugal, is an affront to your manhood  

only girlie men allow themselves to be passed. It matters not whether you drive a Ferrari or a Fiat Punto.

el mas macho is the king of the road  

[dtor]

make no mistake...to be passed in Italy, Spain or Portugal, is an affront to your manhood

I was passed, and passed with authority, by a bicyclist going down an Italian pass, the Finestre, I think. I was very impressed. We were both ATGATT- I was wearing suit, helmet, boots, and gloves, and he was, essentially, naked.

[Busy Little Whiner]

make no mistake...to be passed in Italy, Spain or Portugal, is an affront to your manhood  

only girlie men allow themselves to be passed. It matters not whether you drive a Ferrari or a Fiat Punto.

el mas macho is the king of the road  

Clap clap clap... standing ovation... just when I was beginning to doubt Orson had it in him... he nails it...

[DrD]

Thanks for all your input.  Dot and I had a great time.

The riders who ended up behind us and wanted to go faster found an OK place to pass.  Only one boneheaded rider who almost took out the tour guide.  The drivers were OK, too, with only a couple requiring some of the lane an approaching car wanted to use at the same time.  OTOH, there was no issue when we went to pass a vehicle.  In fact, I was was amazed and very pleased when cars would pull off to the shoulder to let us pass safely in short, straight sections.

The food issue Dot mentioned was a mixed bag, though mostly good.  She learned the phrases to convey her condition and we didn't have a single case where a waiter had no clue what she was talking about.  Some places had more of a gluten free selection (including gluten free pasta) while others would simply advise her what items contained gluten.  Overall a much better experience than dining in the USA with celiac disease.

[Global Rider]

OTOH, there was no issue when we went to pass a vehicle.  In fact, I was amazed and very pleased when cars would pull off to the shoulder to let us pass safely in short, straight sections.

Yup, we're not talking North America, which is why I love driving there.

So, where are the pics?

[DrD]

So, where are the pics?

I posted a report in the Ride Report section.

Next time, I will go through some of your links and put together our own tour.  However, I'm glad we went this way for the first one.

[Orson]

Next time, I will go through some of your links and put together our own tour.  However, I'm glad we went this way for the first one.

That's the way I felt.

There's no harm in spending extra bucks to let someone who knows the best hotels and roads, to show you around the first time to get yer feet wet.

It also frees you up from the paperwork and hassle involved in securing a bike in Europe.

[Ant]

I got lost in Italy following Ant.  It was a little annoying at first mostly because I wasn't sure how far away we were from the night's destination (which we had reservations) and it was late afternoon.

 
Now don't you wish you'd just kept on riding past those two bikes by the Fiat garage  

it was most likely one of the best days of the entire trip.

You're mad   Riding with two Brits, one of whom gets you lost at every opportunity and the other who caused even longer delays when we had to push start him every traffic light, train crossing and roundabout, not to mention u-turn (necessary after the whole getting lost bit).

Gaz and I decided that it was probably one of our best days as well, it must have been the heat getting to us.

[Mr Sunshine]

That's the way I felt.

There's no harm in spending extra bucks to let someone who knows the best hotels and roads, to show you around the first time to get yer feet wet.

It also frees you up from the paperwork and hassle involved in securing a bike in Europe.

When I rented the bike this past June in Switzerland I found it to be a VERY good and positive experience.  I actually dread renting from someone else with the fear it won't be as simple and easy.