*%&$# Oil Filter!!

[zer0netgain]

There should never be a reason to wrench tighten an oil filter.  Never (or almost never) had a problem with a "stuck" filter that was hand-tightened.

I normally apply some fresh oil to the threads and gasket of a new filter....and wipe clean the mating surface on the motor.

Thanks for the tip about dielectric grease...I'll have to try that and see if it works better.

[et]

There should never be a reason to wrench tighten an oil filter.  Never (or almost never) had a problem with a "stuck" filter that was hand-tightened.

I normally apply some fresh oil to the threads and gasket of a new filter....and wipe clean the mating surface on the motor.

Thanks for the tip about dielectric grease...I'll have to try that and see if it works better.

Not true.
Not only do the instructions on Suzuki's filters state to use a wrench to tighten 2 turns after gaskets meets the mounting surface.
But the Suzuki shop manual states the same thing AND it also states to never tighten the oil filter by hand.
Also; those Suzuki filters are just too smooth to get a good hand grip to tighten it 2 turns.
Especially since it's located next to that hot exhaust header.

In over 60 oil/filter changes I've never encountered a stuck filter following Suzuki's instructions.

[kevin_stevens]

From the Kawasaki service manual:

 Replace the filter with a new one.
• Apply engine oil to the gasket [A] before installation.
• Tighten the filter with the oil filter wrench.
Torque - Oil Filter: 31 N·m (3.2 kgf·m, 23 ft·lb)
NOTE
○Hand tightening of the oil filter can not be allowed since
it does not reach to this tightening torque.

I did this exactly *once*, subsequently ripping the nut right off the top of a K&N filter trying to remove it.  I've still had to use my oil filter "jaws of death" just to get a hand-tightened filter off.  So I disagree both with the statement that there's no reason to tighten a filter beyond hand-tight (according to the manufacturer) and that a wrench shouldn't be necessary to remove one.

KeS

[Mr. Whippy]

I tried using the nut on a K&N filter exactly once.  It ain't a nut.  It's thin sheet metal stamped to look like a hex nut.  Close to useless IMO.  

[photomd]

After rereading this, I do have sumpthin' to add. I use an old belt with a solid brass buckle on filters that won't come off. My '93 vfr had the filter between the two front headers and I hypothosized that the heat made the filter hard to remove. I've only hand tightened filters I could get my hand on, including cars, trucks and bikes. I do torque my oilhead as I can't get a hand around it as it sits up in the case.

Anyhow, all I do is loop the belt on the filter so when I pull it turns the filter to the left. I've never had this fail expect on a filter someone else installed on a truck with two rubber gaskets between the filter and engine. The filter was covered with oil so the belt wouldn't grab. That one took a screw driver punched through it: PIA.

I hope Scratch and Redfox are having a great ride. I'm lookig forward to a ride report.

[tjhess74]

I used dielectric grease per the recommendation above, then torqued it down nicely and securely to the specified 120 ft/lb.

thats the part that scares me!  i havent had any problems just snugging it down by hand.  no torque values needed!

[marc11]

120 FOOT POUNDS?  My axle isn't that much.  I don't think I have ever seen one more than 20 foot pounds.

[Rincewind]

120 FOOT POUNDS?  My axle isn't that much.  I don't think I have ever seen one more than 20 foot pounds.

+1.  No wonder he couldn't get the last one off!  

[twist]

120 FOOT POUNDS?  My axle isn't that much.  I don't think I have ever seen one more than 20 foot pounds.

Your joke detector is broken.

[marc11]

Your joke detector is broken.

Damn'it not again...

[Scratch33]

Your joke detector is broken.

Seriously.  How many days did that bait sit out there with nary a nibble?

[Scratch33]

I hope Scratch and Redfox are having a great ride. I'm lookig forward to a ride report.

On Day 6 of this rain-filled funfest, Scratch and Rue are cooling their heels in Franklin, NC; pending overnight delivery & installation of a fresh rear wheel bearing for Scratch's FZ1 which began to noisily give up the ghost on Route 28 northeast of Tallulah Falls.  Redfox unfortunately had to bug back home on Day 3 for workee.

[Scratch33]

Bike repaired and back home high & dry -- will start a Ride Report after pics are available.

[radon222]

Glad to see ya made it home in mostly one piece  

[Scratch33]

Thanks.  That last day's ride was the pits though - I'm always trying to get home fast.

We get to do it all over again 4 weeks from now, gonna attend the RoadRunner thingie at Deep Creek.  

[dnlwthrn]

I have never seen that tool.  If i do I'll probably buy it, I use channel locks.

Search for channellock part no. 209, 212, or 215.  From their website: http://www.channellock.com/acb/stores/1/category.cfm?SID=1&Category_ID=5

I have one, but haven't had to use it...

[thatguy]

Thanks.  That last day's ride was the pits though - I'm always trying to get home fast.

We get to do it all over again 4 weeks from now, gonna attend the RoadRunner thingie at Deep Creek.  

Roadrunner thingy at deep creek?WTF????

[Lakeguy556]

I used dielectric grease per the recommendation above, then torqued it down nicely and securely to the specified 120 ft/lb.

120 ft-lbs for an oil filter?????? . Most auto lug nuts are spec'ed at 85-105 ft-lbs.

 I could see 120 in-lbs but holy shit 120 ft-lbs, thats tight.

You sure thats correct?. If it was meant as sarcasm, my detector must be broken

[Scratch33]

120 ft-lbs for an oil filter?????? . Most auto lug nuts are spec'ed at 85-105 ft-lbs.

 I could see 120 in-lbs but holy shit 120 ft-lbs, thats tight.

You sure thats correct?. If it was meant as sarcasm, my detector must be broken

120 is exactly what it states in my manual.  

Oh, wait a minute.   *skritch* *skritch*   Hmmm.  That wasn't a zero, it was a dead bug.  

Oops...