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Topic: 1125 "Regular Maintenance"-Holy Crap!  (Read 1997 times)

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Rogue
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« on: June 29, 2009, 01:04:34 PM »

To change the spark plugs on the Helicon engine, you must drop the engine and rotate.

WTF? Headscratch

Bring on the updated Firebolt and Lightning and KEEP the Thunderstorm V-twin.
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« on: June 29, 2009, 01:04:34 PM »

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« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2009, 05:52:45 PM »

That seems like a miss engineered bit to me.  I forget, what's the angle of the 1125's twin cylinders?  I believe it's a fairly narrow angle.  I wonder why one couldn't get access though a seat and airbox, if it is a narrow angle.  

Speaking of "Regular Maintenance" of the Helicon, does anyone know how frequently thevalve checks are required?  
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« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2009, 05:53:16 PM »

Thank you Google...

It's a narrow angle twin:

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« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2009, 06:26:53 PM »


Speaking of "Regular Maintenance" of the Helicon, does anyone know how frequently thevalve checks are required? 


Valve check intervals are 12,500 miles (20,000 Km).

I'm very impressed with the power figures for the engine, but dropping the engine for regular maintenance does not sound plea$ant.   Crazy
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« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2009, 06:29:28 PM »


To change the spark plugs on the Helicon engine, you must drop the engine and rotate.

WTF? Headscratch

Bring on the updated Firebolt and Lightning and KEEP the Thunderstorm V-twin.


How often do you expect to change the spark plugs? honestly?
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« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2009, 06:31:12 PM »




Valve check intervals are 12,500 miles (20,000 Km).

I'm very impressed with the power figures for the engine, but dropping the engine for regular maintenance does not sound plea$ant.   Crazy


Thank$    Lol
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« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2009, 06:31:44 PM »




Valve check intervals are 12,500 miles (20,000 Km).

I'm very impressed with the power figures for the engine, but dropping the engine for regular maintenance does not sound plea$ant.   Crazy


Thank$    Lol




How often do you expect to change the spark plugs? honestly?


Good point.
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« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2009, 06:31:44 PM »


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« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2009, 06:37:06 PM »

Less than a year ago there was a love fest (clicky) about the simplicity of Buell design.

Obviously there would be some changes with the change to the new Rotax engine. Do you really have to drop the engine as in remove it from the frame? Or does one just unbolt some of the engine mounts and rotate it forward a few degrees?

I believe the plugs need to be changed at the valve inspection intervals.
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« Reply #8 on: June 29, 2009, 08:21:31 PM »

I have worked on this particular 2008 1125R myself.

I can tell you that Buell did NOT do its homework on making the bike simple to work on.  As a matter of fact, they took two steps back as far as maintenance when compared to the XB models.  Buell rectified some of these little issues in the 2009 model but those with 2008's still have to deal with it.  Another reason not to buy first year models.  

If dropping the engine and "rotating it" is required, I'm thinking you will need at least an overhead hoist to hold the chassis in place while the engine is dropped and held by a scissor jack.  The only consolation is that the Helicon has finger follower valve operation.  No need to remove the camshaft to change shims.  

The XB models still wins out on low maintenance.  That is where the heaps of praise were meant for.  
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« Reply #9 on: June 29, 2009, 10:08:20 PM »




If dropping the engine and "rotating it" is required, I'm thinking you will need at least an overhead hoist to hold the chassis in place while the engine is dropped and held by a scissor jack.  



If? Do you have to drop the engine completely or rotate it in the frame? Anyone know for sure? Thats what I was asking.




The XB models still wins out on low maintenance.  That is where the heaps of praise were meant for.  


I'm aware of the differences between the models.
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« Reply #10 on: June 29, 2009, 10:40:38 PM »

good thing is there are finger followers so you can swap shims easily.
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« Reply #11 on: June 30, 2009, 06:50:51 AM »

While I haven't worked on the 1125 it's a common practice to have to do that on the fuel-in-frame Buells.It's not as big a deal as it sounds like.Use a jack under the muffler(it's marked with a arrow that says "jack/lift point" usually located at the clamps) to hold the front of the engine.Undo the front engine mount so the engine can drop.use the jack to lower the engine until you have access.You may have to remove/loosen some bodywork to accomplish this.Takes about an hour start to finish.You oughta try a top end on a fuel-in-frame Buell.The rear cylinder will get a nun cussing.Hell getting a spark plug in the rear cylinder is a pain.

P.S. Buy a manual.Saves much time and headache with Buells.
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« Reply #12 on: June 30, 2009, 07:54:52 AM »

Thanks for the explanation, thatguy.
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« Reply #13 on: June 30, 2009, 08:13:24 AM »

It's never as bad as it seems with the Buells.They aren't too bad to work on.The problem is packaging an engine not designed for a modern frame.Actually any perimeter frame bike is an involved process.Do a valve adjustment on an inline DOHC four in one.There are some fasteners that beg to be replaced with industrial velcro!Fortunately they don't need as much work as the older bikes.
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« Reply #13 on: June 30, 2009, 08:13:24 AM »


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« Reply #14 on: June 30, 2009, 08:21:57 AM »

One owner told me that there are no jacking points on the 1125 muffler, so he's buying a headstem stand.  I'll have to look it up in the manual.
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« Reply #15 on: June 30, 2009, 08:50:14 AM »

The Thunderstorm engine spoiled me.  Valve checks?  F-that! Also, the low end grunt wins every time in my book.  I took a demo ride on a Triumph ST and Tiger last week.  Like the engine but the whine was a little too much for me.  I'm staying with Buell...
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« Reply #16 on: June 30, 2009, 12:02:05 PM »


You oughta try a top end on a fuel-in-frame Buell.The rear cylinder will get a nun cussing.Hell getting a spark plug in the rear cylinder is a pain.

P.S. Buy a manual.Saves much time and headache with Buells.


Agree about the manual.  Let the factory guys figure it out before you screw something up or disconnect a bunch of stuff you don't have to.

The XB rear cylinder spark plug, I learned from the BWB boys.  I use needle-nose pliers with a 90 degree bend near the ends.  Works beautifully.  For the wrench, I use the plug socket with a U-Joint.
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« Reply #17 on: June 30, 2009, 03:13:18 PM »

I torque spark plugs.
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« Reply #18 on: June 30, 2009, 04:24:35 PM »

I can't see how you can do that with the front spark plug on the XB.

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« Reply #19 on: July 01, 2009, 07:16:02 AM »


The Thunderstorm engine spoiled me.  Valve checks?  F-that! Also, the low end grunt wins every time in my book.  


.... which are among the reasons I'm replacing my thrashed FZ with a Buell.

I love how the twins deliver power.
I love how low-maintenance Harley engines are.
I love the streetable power they offer. I don't need a 150+ MPH bike, but I do need one that gives me a flat torque curve in any gear at any RPM.

Believe it or not, I got really spoiled by my Harleys in favor of other, "better" bikes.
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« Reply #20 on: July 01, 2009, 07:19:41 AM »

Wow, you guys change spark plugs? Smile
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« Reply #21 on: July 01, 2009, 07:37:29 AM »


Wow, you guys change spark plugs? Smile


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« Reply #22 on: July 01, 2009, 10:10:24 AM »

Heck yeah.  For a mere $3/plug, it's cheap increase in responsiveness.
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« Reply #23 on: July 01, 2009, 06:55:54 PM »

As per my factory service manual that I just got today, Rotating the engine means to pivot down using the rear engine mount as a hinge if you will. There is no need drop the engine and rotate it sideways. This isn't something that going to be done in an hour as there is allot of stuff that needs to be disconnected. I will let you know in about 10k more miles. Bigsmile
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« Reply #24 on: July 01, 2009, 09:11:27 PM »


Heck yeah.  For a mere $3/plug, it's cheap increase in responsiveness.


Another reason to buy Buell...cheap parts!  
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