How to fix broken-off taillight mounts in cowling ?

[et]

While on a ride today on my '00 GSXR750 I started hearing a plastic rattling noise that kept getting progressively louder the longer I rode.
It wasn't until I got home that I realized where the noise was coming from.  It was my taillight.
Of the four mounting points for the taillight in the rear cowling; one had broken off and two others had disintegrated.
Leaving only one screw holding in the whole taillight.

I really do not have the funds at the moment to buy a whole new tail section.
So I was considering two possible fixes.
1) Drill holes through the cowling. And use nuts and bolts along with some sort of rubber spacers; such as cutup pieces of fuel line.
2) Some type of hardening compound that will bond to the cowling. Allowing me to insert the stock Suzuki (Helicoil looking) metal threads into that compound as it sets.   BUT is there such a compound ?

Anyone know of such a compound or have some other possible fixes ?

Thanks;
--ET

[malbojah]

I did something with some wet foam and some plastics glue that might help

http://www.sport-touring.net/forums/index.php/topic,40079.msg915010.html#msg915010

In you case, I would drill out a hole and tap it to make the new threads, but I can't guarantee how well they would hold up. Maybe get 3 nuts together and glue them in place. It would be super ghetto, but it might work.

[M.Brane]

 I've used common ABS pipe glue to repair similar problems on my ZX's fairings. You have to make sure the mating surfaces are completely clean of any paint, dirt, oil residue etc. Prime the mating areas with a very light coating of acetone/MEK immediately before applying the glue, and build up a liberal amount of glue around the backside of the pieces for reinforcement.

 Those pieces look pretty weak IMHO so you may even want to make some small gussets out of ABS stock to help reinforce them so this doesn't happen again.

 If you decide to use the MEK read the MSDS on it first, and realize that it will eat the plastic if you get too carried away with it.

[Flashmo]

2) Some type of hardening compound that will bond to the cowling. Allowing me to insert the stock Suzuki (Helicoil looking) metal threads into that compound as it sets.   BUT is there such a compound ?

Drill the hole out about another 1/8"-3/16" and use an epoxy to re-mount the metal threaded peice.

Lowes or Home Depot can fix you up with a quick curing (5-minute) epoxy in the paint department for about $5.

[ianbh]

I've heard good reports on this product.  I've orered some to repair a cowling tab on my FZ.
http://plastex.home.att.net/
Ian, Iowa

[Desmo Demon]

Chances are it is ABS plastic....and easy to weld with a soldering iron...

http://www.desmodemon.com/plastic_welding/

[et]

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.  

A quick fix just to get me through the Holiday weekend and this week. Was to wedge some pipe insulation between the taillight, cowling, and rear fender.
Today I did what hopefully is the actual fix.
Using strips of sheet metal; I made some straps to mount the taillight to the bike's frame:





It ain't pretty; but I think I'll work.
Total cost was ~$20.
~$5 for 1-sqft sheet metal, ~$14 for tin snips, and a couple of bucks for the nuts and bolts.
I already had the zipties. (I hope they hold; there's barely any room to fit a nut into that part of the frame.)

[zer0netgain]

You can buy a product called Plastic Weld (IIRC)...it's a ABS plastic-specific epoxy.  If you're good, you can form the missing plastic then drill a new hole for an anchor or whatever you need.

[drax71]

I have repaired quite a lot of fairings - not because I crash alot but I seem to always buy used bikes that have had some kind of crack or other previously done poor repair. If your doing a crack or fitting parts back in like a puzzle this stuff works great. It is called Duramix 4040. It is a two part expoxy and will stick no problem. It's not cheap but it works - you can buy it at autobody repair supply shops. They used it for fixing plastic parts from car collisions. I normally just repair from the back side so I don't have to re-paint the fairing. Just rough up the area about 1 inch wide over the crack line with  a good grinder or dremel tool to get a fresh, rough, unpainted surface- mix your epoxy and put it on - it hardens quick so work fast once you mix it. It can be drilled, sanded and painted once hardened. If you get it on your hands you will be wearing it for a while so use gloves.