2001 400 Adventure

[fastdadio]

I recently traded the old KDX for a 2001, LC4e,400 Adventure. Being new to the KTM arena, I have about 10,000 questions. Is there a good on line source for parts? Search isn't bringing up much, and I don't have much faith in my local dealer. Anyone out there lived with one long term? What typically goes wrong with them? I've read up on the oil change procedure, that will be intresting. The first farkel I buy will be a factory service manual. 3k mi. valve check interval? That sounds excessive, but, how often do they actually need to be adjusted? I picked this bike up because it has a reputation for being a reliable tank. Over weight and under powered, which is fine, I need to slow down anyway. It seems to be too rich on the bottom, it will bog on occation at less than 1/2 throttle. Was this bike sold with a charcoal cannister? 50 state legal? The previous owner has been into the air box, carb, crank vent...ect. Just wondering what I'll find when I get into that. Looking foreward to any help/advice anyone may have. Thanks.

[ERR]

FA,

I've found KTM Cycle Hutt to be a good source. Not necessarily the best price but normally close and they have sales from time to time.
http://www.ktmcyclehutt.com/?gclid=CJbY7KKji50CFc5L5Qod91ZL3A

Forum you might scan are:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=10
http://www.ktmforums.com/
http://www.ktmtalk.com/

Now let's see some pics

dave

[R.Markus]

I've heard of the LC4 400E and the 620/640 Adventures, but never a 400 Adventure.

2001 is the last year KTM made the LC4 400's, but they only made them in an enduro model (and never made them in an Adventure model as far as I know). In 2001 the Adventures were all 640's and the SM was a 620. It's possible someone built up a 400 with the plastics/tank and frame braces from a 640 since the frames are identical.

Post up some pics so we can be sure of what you have and point you in the right direction. I'm curious as to what bike you bought.

As far as the valve checks, 3000 miles is right. I only had to adjust mine the first two checks.


The best source for KTMs in general is KTMTalk...and their online shopping is the cheapest I've found for most items (it's shopping with Munn Racing)...the best LC4 information on the net is at ADVRider.com in the thumpers section.

You're only about three hours from me also, if you need help working on that bike or anything let me know. I'd be glad to help.

[fastdadio]

I've heard of the LC4 400E and the 620/640 Adventures, but never a 400 Adventure.


I stand corrected. It is a naked, typical dualsport, not an "Adventure" model proper. I included that in the description due only to it having the LC4 engine. So, 01 was the last year? Most likely poor sales as most went for the larger displacement? I can understand that. I also see an advantage to an under stressed engine. Although top performance is not a priority for me, dependability and fuel mileage are. In addition to back road and fire trails, I will use it for the commute when possible. The operator manual says 95 octane required to avoid engine damage. Is this true? I do keep a can of premium in the garage for the Sportster, however, I would like to be able to run regular pump sludge in this one. Has anyone ever lowered the compression ratio with this goal in mind? I'm thinking thicker cylinder base gasket here. I know different base gaskets are available for the DRZs. Not much is going to happen till winter. Right now I'm just going to ride it, then I'll tear into the carb and chase down that part throttle bog issue. In the mean time I'll check out the links above. Thanks for the response. More later....

[R.Markus]

OK, that makes sense. The 400s are cool bikes in that the engine is really understressed. The bad part is that they are a 640 with a smaller engine, so they're heavy. I almost bought an earlier 400 (97 if I recall), but it was a bit more abused than I wanted to deal with.

I would guess that the bogging issue has something to do with the previous owner meddling in the carb and air box. I think that bike came with a BST carb, so the airbox needs to be sealed to a certain point to create a vacuum. If it's opened up too much, the carb won't work properly.

If you try and try to fix that bogging and can't do it (by rejetting), switch to an FCR carb that doesn't require any kind of vacuum created by the air box. The FCR will also work quicker and make the LC4 a lot livelier (or so I hear, I still have the BST in mine).

[fastdadio]

According to the operator manual diagrams, it's a Mikuni CV type. It's common for guys to clip the springs and drill out the slide vent hole on CVs, I won't know untill I'm in there. Even then, i don't know what the proper specs are unless it's listed in the service manual. I don't know what you mean by "BST or FCR" type carbs. Is that a name brand or mechanical description? As far as weight, oh ya, she's a pig for sure. Especially coming off the KDX at 220lbs. But, I'm ok with that. I'm not looking to get "big air" with it. It's just a putz around machine to me.

[ERR]

...The operator manual says 95 octane required to avoid engine damage. Is this true? ...

Are you sure it didn't say RON 95?

RON is Research Oxtane Number which is used in europe.
PON or Pump Oxtane Number is the number used in the USA.
RON 95 = PON 91

Then there is MON Motor Oxtane Number just to add to the confusion.

RON     MON     PON
 90       83      86.6
 92       85      88.5
 95       87      91
 96       88      92
 98       90      94
100      91.5    95.8
105      95     100
110      99     104.5

[R.Markus]

According to the operator manual diagrams, it's a Mikuni CV type. It's common for guys to clip the springs and drill out the slide vent hole on CVs, I won't know untill I'm in there. Even then, i don't know what the proper specs are unless it's listed in the service manual. I don't know what you mean by "BST or FCR" type carbs. Is that a name brand or mechanical description? As far as weight, oh ya, she's a pig for sure. Especially coming off the KDX at 220lbs. But, I'm ok with that. I'm not looking to get "big air" with it. It's just a putz around machine to me.

The Mikuni CV carb on your 400 is a BST40. The FCR is a Keihin carb, usually people use the 39 or 41 on the LC4s.

[fastdadio]

...The operator manual says 95 octane required to avoid engine damage. Is this true? ...


Are you sure it didn't say RON 95?

RON is Research Oxtane Number which is used in europe.
PON or Pump Oxtane Number is the number used in the USA.
RON 95 = PON 91

Yes. I'm sure. The manual lists it in two places. Once as RON-98, and the other as octane rating-95.