:: Preparation Adv ::
I had first heard of the Steens Mountains, Oregon in a ride report I read in 2005 and since that time when I viewed the first photo of the area, I had been trying to make the journey. Like so many things in life, things kept coming up.
Kurtw and I had talked a few times about riding the Owyhee Mountains and the Oregon Outback so last year I decided to post a thread and see if we could get a ST.N group together and head out there. We planned for labor day weekend 2009.
Again, it looked like things were stacking up against the possibility of making this trip. I am working on a graduate degree and 4 or 5 days away from my coursework seemed insane. I decided that if I didn't go for it I would regret it all Winter and perhaps that distraction would be worse than not going at all. So I made a final trip to REI to get the rest of my gear and committed.
:: Heading Out Into Nothing ::
In addition to Kurt, myself and mtrider16, Kurt told me a few other guys were coming with him from Bend. We all decided to meet at Crystal Crane Hot Springs in Crane, Oregon. The turn off for Crane is about 30 miles East of Burns. It doesn't look like much but I knew good things were ahead.
:: Camp XLR8 ::
As planned I made it to the hot springs a little early so I could swim in the natural mineral pool and set up my camp. I grew up camping in the high mountains of Idaho but I had never camped off of a motorcycle before. This trip would be my first time. I purchased new gear just for this trip so I needed some "me time" to read a few instructions.
It turns out the girl running the hot springs camp that night was a rider too. She has a Ducati 998 and we spent a few hours talking bikes while I soaked in the hot pool and contemplated the days ahead.
:: Hot Water ::
Eventually everyone showed up and we all took the opportunity to get to know each other. Everyone jumped in the hot springs again for an evening swim but since I had already been in a few times I looked for a nice evening photo. This is the natural pool at sunset.
:: Performance Anxiety ::
Saturday morning we packed up and headed towards the Steens. I have to admit I had a certain amount of anxiety. From discussions the night before I had learned almost all the guys have been riding off road for years. What would the road surface be like? Are these guys expert riders? I have only been riding off road a few years and I didn't want to be "that guy"; The guy who falls on a rock and fractures a femur, or the dude who we had to wait two hours for. I think these thoughts go through everyone's head from time to time and they were in my head as we made our way up the West side of the Steens.
:: Gorgeous Gorges ::
Let me just say it now. A camera cannot capture the magnificence of this area. The trees and streams below look like a miniature scale model. When you stand on one of these ledges at nearly 10,000 feet, it permeates you.
:: Eagle Eye ::
Kurt composes some visual thoughts.
:: Wonder Wall ::
Kurt and Park being... permeated.
:: Dual Sport Porn ::
We still aren't at the summit so we prepare to go higher. And I wish that stick weren't in the way.
:: Are You High? ::
:: Dry And High ::
This is looking East down onto part the Alvord desert. We'll camp down there on the playa at the end of the day.
:: Jump ::
It's almost 6,000 feet down.
:: You Put Your Weed Up Here ::
:: The West is the Best ::
But the interesting thing about looking West is you can see how gradual the ascent is. When you ride up this side (at least this part of it) you don't realize how high you are until bam! you're on the edge of a cliff.
:: The Happy Campers ::
From L to R, Jim, Dave(mtrider16), Park, Mark and Kurt(kurtw).
:: Civilization...Well, Kind Of... ::
Why did I like this place so much? Was it because it's the only place within hundreds of miles to get fuel? Was it because they don't have real bathrooms? Perhaps it's the fresh water? How about the interesting characters passing through?
People are different way out in the middle of the middle of (yes that's two middles!) nowhere. Even the sophisticated city folk look pleasantly distracted as they mentally process the possibility of not being able to plug in their hair dryer. This is Fields Station and it's wonderful.
:: I Just Need a Little Space ::
After leaving Fields Station we rode out into the Alvord to get to our camping spot. We picked a nice spot on the edge of the playa.
:: Morning Has Broken... ::
I think Cat would dig it.
:: From The Other Side ::
"Morning has broken, like the first morning
Blackbird has spoken, like the first bird
Praise for the singing, praise for the morning
Praise for them springing fresh from the world..."
:: pla·ya ::
n.
"A nearly level area at the bottom of an undrained desert basin, sometimes temporarily covered with water."
:: Look Up ::
The day before, we were looking down here from up there.
:: Fascination ::
I could have stayed out here on the playa for the entire day. I was awestruck. The wide open spaces, the wind, the sand, invite you to come out here and never leave. It's all yours. No gantt charts or cell phones. I spent an hour or so out here taking pictures of my bike from every angle I could think of.
:: OK, You Can Stop Now ::
:: Mappage ::
There was riding to be done. Mtrider16(Dave) had to head back to
Montana and Jim and Mark decided to head back to Crystal Crane Hot
Springs. That left Kurt, Park and myself to come up with some
interesting riding for Sunday.
After a few weak coffees and some rehydrated eggs we decide on a track through the Trout Creek Mountains which is close to the Nevada border.
View Larger Map:: Trout Creek Mountains ::
What Kurt is actually saying is:
A) Wussies on big orange bikes belong down there.
B) I think I saw a trout and it went that way.
C) I have giant bag lodged in my armpit.
D) You can see the edge of the Alvord waaaay down there.
:: Perfect Two Track ::
Before heading up here Kurt and Park asked me if I'd be up for trying a two track that could potentially get a little technical. I didn't want to hold these guys up but I was up for trying it out. If it got hairy I could always turn around. It turned out to be perfect for the big 990 with just enough challenge to keep it interesting but not so difficult that it wasn't enjoyable.
The interesting thing about riding this track is that it's at almost 8,000 feet and yet there are no pine trees.
Our route took us up that two track and down the other side. I didn't take many other pictures up here as I think I was too busy...concentrating.
:: Willow Creek Hot Springs ::
Eventually our two track led us out of the Trout Creek Mountains and on to a main road where we made our way to Willow Creek Hot Springs. Not pictured here is a flasher from Idaho who scared everyone away, even himself, so we eventually had the pool all to ourselves which was great. On the left side is cool water and on the right is hot. It's invigorating to switch back and forth between the two pools.
:: Old Stuff ::
After our soak in the hot springs we decided to ride to Fields for dinner, fuel and water. This is one of many old places seen out in the desert along the way. Life must have been hard out here.
:: Hurtin' Puppy ::
There was still some daylight after dinner so we headed for Mickey Hot Springs which is on the opposite end of the playa from Fields. Apparently every once in a while an excited canine will jump in one of the boiling pools and that's the end of puppy. That would be a bummer for sure.
:: Not For Soaking ::
Who farted? Did you fart? Well it wasn't me...
:: Action! ::
Instead of taking the same route back to camp from Mickey Hot Spring we planned to cut straight across the expansive playa and end up exactly at our tents on the farthest... "shore". We all had waypoints on our GPS so we followed the magic arrow across the dried up lake bed.
After some pucker moments (well, for me anyway) riding through some deep talcum powder dust we made it out onto the playa and couldn't resist the temptation to play around.
:: Parting Ways ::
Sadly, it was time to head for home on Monday. Park headed out early in the morning while Kurt and I took our time to take in our last moments on the Alvord. This photo is at the intersection of Fields-Denio Rd. and Hwy. 78. Kurt took a left here on 78 and I headed across the desert to Juntura on Crowley-Riverside Rd. which cuts across the Oregon desert to Hwy 20.
In hindsight, it was bad judgment on my part to take Crowley-Riverside Rd. alone. Although Kurt gave me almost 1 gallon of fuel before we left camp I almost ran out of fuel crossing the desert to Hwy 20. My GPS said Juntura was 158 miles from our camp but it turned out to be around 200. About midway, my GPS tried to route me through a large ranch marked with very visible no trespassing signs. At some point there must have been a big land grab or something because the route wasn't working out. Even Google doesn't know how to route it.
I wasn't too worried, I had food, water and camping gear but since I saw absolutely nobody out there I wasn't sure how long it might be before a rancher or someone came by to give me some fuel. Luckily I made it...on fumes. It seemed like my fuel light was on forever.
:: China Creek ::
The road in the distant hills drops from the high Oregon desert at about 5,100 feet down into Juntura, Oregon.
:: The End ::
What a fantastic trip with a great group of guys that I hope I get to ride with again. There was absolutely no drama, just a compatible and easy flow on and off our bikes as we experienced this fantastic area.
I will return.
