Yet another help me decide - (lightweight?) SPORT touring - DECIDED!

[chornbe]

OK, where do I find the sensor and what the fuck is a reluctor wheel?  Regardless, if that's the case, the (previous) owner will give me back some money, or even take the bike back.  Cool guy.  

- Dan

I'm downloading a service manual as we speak. Gimme a few and I'll call you.

[PVS]

Well Dan, congratulations on the purchase.  With you and Chris both buying bikes, I don't know what we'll have to talk about for the next three months.  

[caddydaddy]

OK, where do I find the sensor and what the fuck is a reluctor wheel?  Regardless, if that's the case, the (previous) owner will give me back some money, or even take the bike back.  Cool guy.  

- Dan

BikeBandit.com would be the cheapest for new parts, or you might find them on eBay.

This is a pic of the front wheel of an ABS Sprint.  

The little ring with the slots is the pulsar ring.  The pulsar, which picks up the wheel speed is located just below the left brake caliper, and you'll see a wire going to it.  That little sucker is $142 and the pulsar ring is $250.  You might get away with just replacing the pulsar and not the ring.  
  I'd check to see if the pulsar is rubbing the ring.  There should be an air gap between the two.  The service manual has the specs for how much of a gap should be there.  But if the pulsar rubs the ring, as would happen if the wheel spacers were switched, then the pulsar is shot!  

[Dan K]

BikeBandit.com would be the cheapest for new parts, or you might find them on eBay.

This is a pic of the front wheel of an ABS Sprint.  

The little ring with the slots is the pulsar ring.  The pulsar, which picks up the wheel speed is located just below the left brake caliper, and you'll see a wire going to it.  That little sucker is $142 and the pulsar ring is $250.  You might get away with just replacing the pulsar and not the ring.  
  I'd check to see if the pulsar is rubbing the ring.  There should be an air gap between the two.  The service manual has the specs for how much of a gap should be there.  But if the pulsar rubs the ring, as would happen if the wheel spacers were switched, then the pulsar is shot!  

Makes perfect sense.  I'll check the service manual in detail and give the bike a good inspection when I get home tonight.  The diagnostics on the ABS system require a tool only a dealer will have, and even if I fix the problem, it may not clear the fault - kind of like a check engine light.  We'll see. I'd like to think it would reset itself if I discover the problem.  I'll start in the front with an entire brake system review, as the front has a slight grab when spinning free - could be the pulsar rubbing the pulsar ring (hope not).  Then I'll move to the rear.  Pretty fancy.

It still needs a few cans of seafoam to be on the safe side (bike sat w/ 3/4 full tank for 10 months and while it started up no problem, the gas smells like old lawnmower gas), needs an oil change, which looks pretty easy on this bike.  We'll see how much I'm going to tackle on my own.  It may be heading over to the closest dealer over the weekend...heated grips will be installed, hopefully by me, by next fall.  This bike will be my daily rider.  I plan to put lotsomiles on her.

- Dan

[caddydaddy]

Makes perfect sense.  I'll check the service manual in detail and give the bike a good inspection when I get home tonight.  The diagnostics on the ABS system require a tool only a dealer will have, and even if I fix the problem, it may not clear the fault - kind of like a check engine light.  We'll see. I'd like to think it would reset itself if I discover the problem.
- Dan

Actually, I just bought a scanner called "Dealertool", which allows you to read and reset the codes, balance the throttle bodies and bleed the ABS system. http://dealertool.web.officelive.com/default.htm  I haven't used it yet, so I can't tell you if it works good!
  The ABS system will reset itself if the problem is fixed, BTW.  And the check engine light will reset after 3 complete warm up and cool downs.

[Dan K]

Actually, I just bought a scanner called "Dealertool", which allows you to read and reset the codes, balance the throttle bodies and bleed the ABS system. http://dealertool.web.officelive.com/default.htm  I haven't used it yet, so I can't tell you if it works good!
  The ABS system will reset itself if the problem is fixed, BTW.  And the check engine light will reset after 3 complete warm up and cool downs.

Good news on the reset thing.  Hopefully it's a minor fixable issue.  Let me know how that dealertool works.  Sounds like I can't even bleed the brakes without dealer assistance?  Or a dealer tool?  There is a learning curve I am climbing here...

- Dan

[caddydaddy]

Good news on the reset thing.  Hopefully it's a minor fixable issue.  Let me know how that dealertool works.  Sounds like I can't even bleed the brakes without dealer assistance?  Or a dealer tool?  There is a learning curve I am climbing here...

- Dan

Will do!  I'm gonna do my 12K mile maintenance soon, even though I'm over 13K.    So, I'll be using the dealertool to synch the TBs then.
  Yes, the ABS pump can't be bled without the dealertool, or having the Triumph dealer do it with their scanner.  So if you do bleed the brakes, don't let the master cylinders run dry!  

[redmille]

Congrats Dan.  Hope you enjoy!