I have 21 days of riding in Western Europe, talk to me, please!

[rc30boy]

I'm leaving the States on Friday May 28th, arriving London, staying with my brother for a bit, then picking up a hire bike and crossing the channel.  I will probably land in Calais and head out from there.  I would love suggestions, comments, addresses of good places, any contact numbers would be great and I would happily reciprocate to any STN'ers over on the West Coast of the US.  My only schedule is Normandy Beaches on the 6th of June and heading over to meet a friend already there in Grindelwald by the 7th of June.  I am pretty free about timing though and don't have many concrete plans.  I would love to ride Tuscany, the Alps, whatever, wherever.  I have never ridden Europe, other than Great Britain, and am looking for any hot tips anyone might have.  I will be riding from the 2nd of June to the 24th.  Thanks to all who reply.
Wade

[Orson]

Italy is my favorite country. Not just because of the roads, but the culture, the food, the people   With the Appenine Mountains running the length of the Italian peninsula, you can pretty much throw a dart at the map and it will land on a good riding area. Tuscany and Umbria are nice and while the Emilia-Romagna region may not get as much tourist hype, it's motorcycling roads are just as nice. The Italian Lake District is nice, but the roads are tight and congested, so they're more conducive to sightseeing than to sport riding. Many gas stations in Italy shut down for lunch from about 11:30 to 2:30, so be sure and top off your tank before then Motorcycles are given free rein to cut up and slice traffic as they see fit, and no one bats an eyelash...not even the police.

In France, anywhere in the Massif Central is going to have twisty roads. France has the best highway system, in my opinion. La Route Napoleon has a bit of everything, but is mostly fast. Finding open gas stations on Sunday in rural France can be tricky.

The Ardennes region in Belgium has some nice hilly bits stretching down into northern Luxembourgh and into the Eifel mountains of Germany. The road along the Moselle River is very scenic. From Saarbruken on into Southern Germany in the Black Forest and along the foothills of the Alps, there are some some nice riding areas, although the police are less amusing

Portugal surprised me. A good road system, and the people are nonpretentious and down to earth. Food is your basic meat and potatos fare, so you can't go wrong.

Stay away from the south coast of Spain and Portugal unless tacky, overdeveloped tourist resorts are your thing

The UK, with its quaint villages and bucolic countryside is the most underrated European destination, in my opinion

For a 21 day trip, I would suggest going south thru the Ardennes into northern Luxembourg. The Nurburgring racetrack is just across the border from Luxembourg, as is the Moselle River. Then you can follow the Rhine on down to the Black Forest or thru the hilly Alsace Lorraine, up into the Swiss Alps. Take a few days off in Andermatt to ride the local passes.

Then either go east to the Italian Dolomites or west into southern France, both offer great riding. That'll take about 10 or 12 days and you'll be needing to turn around to return the bike to the UK.

Another option is taking the overnight ferry to Northern Spain and riding the Pyrennes Mountains. Spain is chock full of castles as it was on the front line of the Moorish-Christian wars for about 100 years.

Leave your plans open to change. If it's raining in the Dolomites, head for the south of France or vice versa

[notarian]

Don't know how long you'll with your friend in Grindelwald (pretty area for sure, very crowded and not much good riding around there). Realistically, your travels don't begin until 7 June. Personally, I'd do Caen, Normandy to Grindelwald using the fastest route possible and will still be 8-9 hours.

Since you are beginning your travels in the Alps and if you find it to your liking after riding the Andermatt region, you might consider doing the whole of the Alps plus So. France.

I highly recommend buying John Hermann’s ‘Motorcycle Journeys Through The Alps’. Review it and take it with you. It’s an amazingly accurate description of rides and roads, geared for North Americans, but applicable to anyone who reads the English language. Hermann’s book, a Kummerly & Fry Alpine Roads map and Michelin France map and some common directional sense is about all you need for the Alps and Provence France.

Orson is absolutely correct in Andermatt being the first place to head for as its only 2.5 hours from Grindelwald. But try the whole itinerary on for size as a guide standard. Hermann's book will give the roads to ride.

Andermatt 2- 3 days

La Prese (St. Moritz)  2 days (La Prese Hotel is expensive at 100 euros but if you can treat yourself and dine by the lake)

Arabba, Dolomites  3 days (Evando Hotel is very very good, so is the food and includes Breakfast and Dinner - very biker friendly) From La Prese to Arabba, 3 outstanding passes are essential = Moritrolo (can be hard to find at Mazzo) to di Gavia to Stevio.

Riva, Italy 1 day Beautiful town centre, lake and superb pastries and ice cream!

2 days getting to Nice (via some nice stuff west of Riva, the Motorways to Cuneo and after Cuneo there are numerous route passes to Nice. A good place to stay is outside Nice in Vence (and the Col de Vence leads to Napolean's Route through the French Alps).

Vence 2 nights (arrival night and a one day for great ride out to Grand Canyon du Verdon, although you could easily combine this with beginning Napolean's Route rather than return to Vence). Have dinner in the town square = its usually lively and easy going

Ride Vence to Flumet (Annecy area) via Napolean's Route = 3-4 days of one of the finest journeys on the planet = the route has everything a biker could want. Once in the north and over Col de I'Iseran one comes to the town of Bourg St. Maurice. My favourite road in the Alps begins there and is an absolute must = Cormet de Roselend. It's a highlight that will secure a great ending to a great trip.

Bear in mind that Flumet is more a winter accommodation resort and does not have any good accommodations or restaurants during the summer, accommodations all along the route are plentiful so you don't have to book.

That's a lot of riding and about 4000 hairpins, 4000 fast sweepers and majestic, stunning scenery. Roughly 14 days and makes a full circuit of the Alps and Dolomites. Everyone thinks of the Alps as nothing but switchbacks / hairpins but that's not true. Getting to them is always fast sweepers, sweepers and twisties up through the valleys and canyons and then the steep ascent/descent of the pass itself (zero radius hairpins and for some a lot of hard work).

Route back to Calais/London might include Orson's suggestions of parts of Germany, France, Luxembourg and is a good 2 day journey. If time is getting short, skip the riding west of Riva and just motorway it all the way to Nice (easily a one day ride) to do Napolean's Route.

[Papa Lazarou]

Just a quick word-beware of thieves in Northern Portugal.

And Barcelona is the thieving capital of Yurp.

[notarian]

Papa,

Too damn right about Barcelona! It's blatantly 'open season' on pick pocketing and just plain robbery on the streets.

[Papa Lazarou]

I'd agree-beautiful place but people get robbed in broad daylight on crowded streets.

[notarian]

If doing an entire Alps trip is too much and presuming your friend will be in Grindelwald for awhile, there's great riding though southern central France.

 Normandy - Ales (Parc National des Cevennas and the Canyons)   2 - 3 days

Ales to Gap and up through the French Alps to Martigny, Swiss       4 days

Martigney to Andermatt         3 hours and 2-3 days in Andermatt

Andermatt to Grindelwald      2.5 hours

Leaving several days to leisure your way back to Calais via some Germany, Northern France, Lux...

Or, do it in reverse order?

Without including Grindelwald the possibilities are endless, but with Grindelwald the possibles are down to many.

Michelin map for sure and take the 'green routes'.

With 3 days to before you leave, you left it pretty late for all of this as there's a lot to consider. However, I'm sure you'll have quite a holiday and we at STN do expect a report with Pics!

[Alfie Whizz]

A bit of reading for you:

Bikes in the Fast Lane. An American living in Normandy, France. Look in the "Articles" section.

Motorcycle Touring in Europe. General advice about biking in Europe (or anywhere for that matter)

[rc30boy]

Thank you all!  Wow, if ever any of you who need assistance want to come over to western US it would be my pleasure to host you for a night or two amongst some very nice mountains.  A big part of this journey for me is going to be following my front tire to see where it leads me.  I do not have any set itenerary, I just need to get the hell out of here for ahwile.  Two years ago I spent some time riding about Great Britain, and I have to admit it's very true about the country lanes there.  I was lucky enough to be based only 25 minutes from Matlock, an hour or so from the Cat and Fiddle, went up there several times and loved the road.  
Anyway, a big piece of this current journey is to get back on track and figure out what the heck I'm doing.  It works really well for me to wander on a bike when I do that.  The info about areas to ride in is great, that way I can base myself somewhere and do some day loops.  I'm also going to bring a tent and camping gear, will probably do youth hostels and campsites for the most part.  Once again, thanks to all of you!  Wade

[Gaw]

Another option is taking the overnight ferry to Northern Spain and riding the Pyrennes Mountains. Spain is chock full of castles as it was on the front line of the Moorish-Christian wars for about 100 years.

I add "Picos de Europa" in the North of Spain, it's one of the best place of Spain for riding, I recommend it

[Orson]

My only schedule is Normandy Beaches on the 6th of June and heading over to meet a friend already there in Grindelwald by the 7th of June.

I missed this part.

From the Normandy coast to Central Switzerland is gonna be a looooong day, even if you stick to the Autoroutes (many are toll roads)

The internet calculator thingie sez it's only 411 miles, but it seems a lot farther to me. I don't know if that's as the crow flies, or highway miles.

Still, it seems like at least a 10 or 12 hour day in the saddle. Maybe it's because I don't ride 110 mph of the autoroutes  

[FJR-UK]

You'll be arriving in the UK at the beginning of a Bank Holiday, which means the roads will be jammed until Tuesday. Also, the weather is turning cold and wet (surprise) so take a train into London and enjoy the free museums.

Best advice I can give you for Europe is to buy a Michelin map and follow the squiggly lines edged with green (routes of scenic beauty). After Normandy, head down to the south of France and then up to Grindelwald from the south. Do a large, counter-clockwise loop back to the UK. Avoid Paris on a bike, but cities worth a visit on your loop might be:

Rouen, Tours, Toulouse, Montpellier, Lyon, Grenoble, Bern, Besançon, Dijon, Strasbourg, Luxembourg, Trier, Antwerp, Gent, Brugge.

Quite a loop for 21 days, though.

You pay as you go on the motorways throughout Europe, but in Switzerland you have to buy a vignette if you travel on the motorway:
http://www.travel-swiss.co.uk/passes-motorway-vignette/vignette.html

Have a great, safe trip!

[rc30boy]

Thank you all for your lovely advice.  The sad news is I have to return home to the states, my 25 year old step son has been diagnosed with cancer and I need to get back to help the family.  It is my fervent hope that A. healing is on the way for Preston. B. That I'll be back next spring and actually do the ride this time.  Thanks again to all of you.
Wade

[Papa Lazarou]

Really sorry to hear that. Hope all is well and he heals up soon.

I live 25 miles South of London if you need a bed.

[notarian]

Too right, Wade. You are needed at home, Europe isn't going anywhere and you'll be back. Best to Preston.

Note

[Gaw]

I'm so sorry. I hope he get better soon

[Ralf]

When it rains, it pours Hope everything turns out ok.

P.S. Crap weather here in central Europe anyway.

[Papa Lazarou]

When it rains, it pours Hope everything turns out ok.

P.S. Crap weather here in central Europe anyway.

Nice and sunny here.

[rc30boy]

Good news is Preston's Dr. says a 97% chance of a full cure.  It's not a 100% thing , yet it's darn close.  With luck I'll see you all again soon.
Wade

[Papa Lazarou]

Good news is Preston's Dr. says a 97% chance of a full cure.  It's not a 100% thing , yet it's darn close.  With luck I'll see you all again soon.
Wade

Sounds like a great prognosis. Congrats to all.  

[yotes65]

Hey Wade, Sorry to hear about your step son. Sounds like your family has received some good news. Here's to a full recovery!

Where on the West Coast are you located?