"Procedure" for exchanging Brake Pads on FJR?

[OmegaSix]

Anybody out there have a "procedure" for exchanging front and rear pads on an '03 (non-ABS) FJR?
It's time - but without the manual, I'm a little hesitant to just plow into it...  
And please, "search NAZI's" - I don't want to hear it - something helpful, please, or nothing at all will do just fine.

[chornbe]

Honestly, it's a VERY straight forward job. Unbolt caliper, slide caliper off, spread pads slowly with screw driver, pull pins, slide pads out, clean everything, new pads in, pins back in, caliper back on, bolts in and torqued.

Some variations apply; for instance, I believe the Gen-II FJR, you can remove the pins and slide the pads out without removing the caliper, but re-seating the pistons is a bitch.

There are details to consider regarding brake fluid levels, condition of rotors, etc., but that's the basics in a nutshell.

Question #1 - are you the type to always keep your brake fluid level at full?

[fhaze]

PSSST...

http://www.fjrtech.com/maint.cfm

[sprint_st]

Honestly, it's a VERY straight forward job. Unbolt caliper, slide caliper off, spread pads slowly with screw driver, pull pins, slide pads out, clean everything, new pads in, pins back in, caliper back on, bolts in and torqued.

Some variations apply; for instance, I believe the Gen-II FJR, you can remove the pins and slide the pads out without removing the caliper, but re-seating the pistons is a bitch.

There are details to consider regarding brake fluid levels, condition of rotors, etc., but that's the basics in a nutshell.

Question #1 - are you the type to always keep your brake fluid level at full?

Gen II's do not "require" removal as you said but it is so easy, it doesn't matter.  Not sure what you mean by re-seating the pistons.  I would take off the calipers, use a wide wood chisel that I ground the the edge off of to pry the pads apart.  Just don't hit a brake lever while working.  It ain't rocket science, just go for it.

[chornbe]

Yeah, exactly that - pushing the pistons back in so there's room for the new pads which should be a good deal thicker than the worn ones.  

[Bjorn Toulouse]

Anybody out there have a "procedure" for exchanging front and rear pads on an '03 (non-ABS) FJR?
It's time - but without the manual, I'm a little hesitant to just plow into it...  
And please, "search NAZI's" - I don't want to hear it - something helpful, please, or nothing at all will do just fine.

I recommend having your friendly neighborhood Yamaha dealer do the pad swap.
"Factory Trained" technicians, appropriate manuals, and all those special tools.
Ya know what I mean.


Rex

[Wanderer]

http://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=5

Don't even need to pull the caliper.  Remove the brass plate, pull the cotter pin and slide the pads out.

[sprint_st]

I recommend having your friendly neighborhood Yamaha dealer do the pad swap.
"Factory Trained" technicians, appropriate manuals, and all those special tools.
Ya know what I mean.


Rex

Bjorn,
Maybe if an oil change was beyond my technical skills, I'd go to a dealer and pay $50 to a $100 labor for something you could train monkeys to do blind folded, but it sure looks like all you have to do is pull one pin on each caliper using an allen wrench or socket, watch the rattle spring pop off, spread the pistons a bit, pull out the pads.  Reverse the procedure with the new pads and go for a ride.  It AIN'T that hard  IMO, the more you know about fixing the bike yourself, the better off you are when something breaks in the middle of nowhere.

[Bjorn Toulouse]

It AIN'T that hard  

Yeah, yer right, what the fuck am I thinkin'??
A clueless person, with tools, working on their brakes........


Rex

[chornbe]

Ya'll are both making excellent points.

It comes down to the owner's mechanical aptitude and his being honest with himself about it.

It ain't that hard. Absolutely correct. It's dead simple.

If you fuck it up you could die horribly in a fiery crash. Also completely correct.




Do one side at a time, compare the results to the other side, finish the job, sleep well and enjoy. Or if you think it's beyond you, have it done, sleep well and enjoy. Omega, are you anywhere near Southeast PA? I'll gladly do the job and show you how to do it for next time, or look over your shoulder while you do it.
 

[FJR1300]

I don't have anything to add... just replying so I can find this post later.

[bomber]

If you DO the job yourself, after the new pads are in, the master cylinder is buttoned back up, the tools are put away, and you've patted yourself on the back, there's still one step left (that is often left out of the manual) . . ..

Pump the brake a couple or three times.

The first time you squeeze the lever (or push down on the pedal), you'll be pleased that you didn't wait to perform this step at the end of your driveway, trying to avoid coasting into traffic.

Pushing the pistons back into the caliper (to make room for the new, thicker pads), will leave the pads far away from the disk (as these things are measured, damn near any measureable distance is far away).

After two or three applications, your brakes should be functioning nicely.

Give the new pads a few miles to get acquainted with the disk . . . . .

If you go slowly, follow the steps outlined in the links above, you'll be fine. After an oil change, it's a good next task to tackle on your way to mechanic's status.

[tigertom1965]

Exchanging front and rear brake pads might not work.
 
The rear pads might not fit on the front or the front fit on the rear......you will want to just replace the pads with new ones.  

Technically you should also replace the brake fluid while you are at it but it really depends on when you last changed the brake fluid.

[Bjorn Toulouse]

Give the new pads a few miles to get acquainted with the disk . . . . .

Bomber, you make it sound like the components are on a date!!  


Rex

[bomber]

Bomber, you make it sound like the components are on a date!!  


Rex

Similes and metaphores RULE!

;-}

[FJRmgm]

If you DO the job yourself, after the new pads are in, the master cylinder is buttoned back up, the tools are put away, and you've patted yourself on the back, there's still one step left (that is often left out of the manual) . . ..

Pump the brake a couple or three times.

The first time you squeeze the lever (or push down on the pedal), you'll be pleased that you didn't wait to perform this step at the end of your driveway, trying to avoid coasting into traffic.

Pushing the pistons back into the caliper (to make room for the new, thicker pads), will leave the pads far away from the disk (as these things are measured, damn near any measureable distance is far away).

After two or three applications, your brakes should be functioning nicely.

Give the new pads a few miles to get acquainted with the disk . . . . .

If you go slowly, follow the steps outlined in the links above, you'll be fine. After an oil change, it's a good next task to tackle on your way to mechanic's status.

good advice here..

[Mr.Black]

From what I understand, you start by getting yourself one of these,

[Mr.Black]

Sorry, I couldn't help it. I found that to compress the piston into the caliper, GENTLY using this tool makes easy business of it.



 I don't know personally of any special requirements for the FJR but I've been able to change pads on any vehicle I have had. The most important thing I learned has been said already, DONT apply pressure to ANY levers while the assembly is apart or you could really fuckak things up as far as reassembly goes and pump the brakes after reassembly until firm before riding.

[tigertom1965]

found that to compress the piston into the caliper, GENTLY using this tool makes easy business of it.

You can find C-clamps for a couple of bucks at just about any hardware store that will do this task as well. Harbor freight has several sizes and prices for industrial C-Clamps starting from 99 cents and up.

[Mr.Black]

Funny you should mention HF. I bought that vice grip for like 3 bucks there.

[Bjorn Toulouse]

Harbor freight has several sizes and prices for industrial C-Clamps starting from 99 cents and up.

Harbor Fright has nothing that could be remotely considered "industrial".



Rex

[chornbe]

He said industrial SIZED. He made no such qualification about quality. LOL

[tigertom1965]

"Industrial C-Clamp" is the name Harbor freight has for them.

I know my brother has one we used on my truck calipers and his. Right on the side of the C-Clamp it says made in China so I know it will eventually fail or give me lead poisoning but for less than $5 what do you want?

Personally I don't know what company is actually creating them (Forging, or however else they make them) in the US. I think everyone gets their metal from China these days. I sure wish we would stop importing that China crap and get some quality products again.

You can always go to Sears and pay twice the Harbor Freight price for C-Clamps at least you get the china crap with a warranty, or try Cornwell tools, or any other good quality tool maker like snap on.

[Bjorn Toulouse]

"Industrial C-Clamp" is the name Harbor freight has for them.

Naming them such does not make it so.
Quit being sucked in by hyperbole and cheep prices!

 
I sure wish we would stop importing that China crap and get some quality products again.

As the market is consumer driven, consider that every piece o' chit "Industrial C-Clamp" you purchase from Harbor Freight makes it that much tougher for a reputable American to stay in business.

You want "real" c-clamps? Go here: http://www.adjustableclamp.com/cclamp_pg.htm
The quality products are out there....yeah, you'll pay a bit more, but you'll only buy it once and it will last a lifetime.

Just say NO to ChinCom crap!


Rex

[Mr.Black]

Who cares? It's a clamp. It's not like we're shopping for o-rings for NASA here. Oh wait.