The West

[notarian]

Blew into Los Gatos, Ca on Sunday and spent 3 days readying the bike (service and installed heated grips) and 5 days spending time with family and friends. Some would say I was fortunate to arrive during a heat wave, but having just spent several weeks riding Europe in such conditions, more 100F was not needed.

Off with the KTM on Friday with Chick (daughter’s boyfriend) on his VFR. Destination is Los Gatos to Quincy, Ca. Then Quincy to Fortuna = first 2 days of a 30 day / 7000 miles journey of the West.

An hour of uneventful motorway got us from Los Gatos over the Benitez Bridge to Suisun Valley Road (Napa vino country) where the fun begins with another half hour to Lake Berryessa (Spanish Flat). I was low on petrol at that point and looking for a ‘gas station’ thinking Berryessa is major boating lake and surely there’s a petrol station somewhere. If in doubt, ask the locals and nearest on our route was in Pope Valley.

Chick


This meant altering the route slightly, backtracking a few miles then heading up 128, but didn’t mind much because I’d read that Pope Valley is mighty fine ride. Pope Valley and no petrol = ask again and sure enough 6 miles southwest is a Chevron station in Angwin. Up the hill, 6 hairpins, 12 sweepers, over the top, 2 hairpins and 8 more sweepers = Voila, petrol! 6 miles of sheer bliss (and 6 miles return) meant a delightful road find that almost brought a tear to ‘me one good eye, Har, Har.’

Passed by Clear Lake to Hwy 20 and 162 leading to Oroville (arrow straight stuff). Oroville is really where my journey begins and the 162 to Quincy.

As pleasant as riding California’s wine country back roads is, the 162 from Oroville to Quincy was not only the highlight of the day, this road is the finest sweeper road I’ve ever ridden. The Oberalp pass out of Andermatt has always been my favourite fast sweeper but the Oroville to Quincy nails what sweepers is all about. 70 miles of it and its smoooooth tarmac with no traffic. Google maps projects the 70 miles to take 2 hours but they don’t reckon on motorbikes and it take less than an hour. There are many 25 mile/hour corner signs and after the first 3 taken at 45 mph I realised that the suggested corner speed can easily be doubled and taken comfortably at 60 mph. Numerous 35 and 40 mph signs are all taken at 70 and 80. No cars, no trucks, no LEO on the day and after 10 minutes I was thinking 1098, 1098, 1098…but even on a supermoto it’s a fabulous, quick travel.

What an absolute superb road with the only 2 hazards – one being a well sign posted truck pull out where the road is dirty for a half mile and second, your right hand.

One of the problems with California riding is that the mountains don’t lend themselves to photos. It’s too forested for vistas and with a sweeper type road with turns being long and distant, the camera only captures the beginning of the turn rather a series. Too bad because all I can do is tell you about it. Besides, I was having too much fun to stop.

Quincy – Small town in timber country


Quality movies in Quincy!


Heat wave over (temporarily) and Quincy north on 89 was cool and wet. Lassen National Park was socked in solid and snowing over the pass = didn’t see a damn thing. Shame.

However, this was my first full Hwy 36 from Red Bluff to Fortuna. Wow, what a road. 36 has everything a biker could hope for except hairpins (although there are some too) and panoramic photos. Famous for its 140 miles of twisties, undulating over rolling golden foothills with blind rises and huge dips with sharp turns then climbs over the coastal range, a short section of one lane tight corners and empties thorough a curvy, shadowy redwood forest.

Spent the night in Ferndale (near Fortuna). The town is like an immaculate museum. Very, very good eats at the Ivanhoe Hotel.




Even the public toilets are quaint


Being spoiled for choice, I was almost, but not quite bitching about the KTM ride position on Monday and Tuesday. I’d just spent 8 weeks on a 1098S and actually stopped when taking off on the KTM for the first time in a year to look down so see where the damn foot pegs are. Also needed adjusting to such a severe upright position with the body and mind tuned for the 1098. After a week, the KTM still remains slightly unnatural (but getting better) whereas last year it was as perfect as a bike could be. Such is ‘memory’. The bike is also much less planted on fast sweepers when there’s a dip in the road that is probably down to the long suspension travel - even though the suspension correctly set up for me.

After two good days of riding Chick buggered off back to Los Gatos on Sunday while I continued north to Oregon. I thought my front tyre would last until Yakima, WA but isn’t to be. Gotta change it tomorrow in Medford, Oregon. I had all week to do so in LG.

Hwy 96 = a visual spectacular. The hwy follows the Klamath River giving one a feast of visuals. There are a couple of twisty ‘technical’ bits as some people like to call it, but mostly – ho hum lets go a steady 70mph and see all the sights. Stop for lunch anywhere along the way = grab a burger or french dip – not great, but it fills the hole.

Hwy 299 west of Willow Creek


Hwy 96 (Bigfoot Scenic Highway) Pretty much follows the Klamath River and this is what you get the whole way.




Some very nice sections on 96






Back road from Seiad Valley, CA to Medford, OR = this takes awhile and not sign posted!


Right, Medford = tomorrow a tyre and get on the road. Crater Lake coming up, 138 to Steamboat, north to Oakridge! Looking forward it!


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[Kneescrubber]

That's a lot of bikes in that garage; with a wicked looking bass hanging on the wall. Keep 'em coming!

[Mrs. DantesDame]

I've been in that garage! And on most of those roads, too    

Looking forward to following along - nice intro  

[sagerat]

Aufdeheidi Scenic Byway between Oakridge (OR 58) and McKenzie Bridge (OR 126) is worth the ride then go E a bit on OR 126 to its junction with US 20, go back W on US 20 over Tombstone Pass and come out at Sweet Home.  Ahhh.  

Just remember to stay on correct side of the road, laddie.  

[Mrs. DantesDame]

Aufdeheidi Scenic Byway between Oakridge (OR 58) and McKenzie Bridge (OR 126) is worth the ride then go E a bit on OR 126 to its junction with US 20, go back W on US 20 over Tombstone Pass and come out at Sweet Home.  Ahhh.  

Just remember to stay on correct side of the road, laddie.  

You missed the boat - he already posted about recommended routes through the area  

[birdrunner]

Notarian is on my most envied and hated list.

[notarian]

Medford is closed on Mondays so the tyre had to wait 2 days until Hood River, Oregon. Meantime, the weather gods decided Oregon has had enough Summer and decided to bypass Fall altogether and go straight into Winter for the day. NOOA weather forecast was 30-40% chance of rain on my route. Yeah, right. Do these guys actually get paid to forecast the weather? It rained and/or snowed all day the entire way to Oakridge. Crater Lake was 36F and snowing. Diamond Lake at 5400’ was also snowing. Good roads, crap ride and no photos (What, take a shot of the nearest tree?)

Highlight of the day was a hot shower at the Oakridge Best Western, then Chili Verde and a Modelo Negra. BTW, I think I got real lucky reaching Oakridge by way of Forest Roads off Steamboat/Brice Creek Road. No sign posts, no road markings (bicycles), nada = practically total guess work and enough memory review of google maps.

Tuesday was better, much better for half the day. Oakridge to Cougar Dam via Forest Rd 19 (Auferheidi Road) where I hooked up with Steve, an online biker that offered to show me some of the local roads leading in my route destination.

The Auferheidi begins and ends with covered bridges.




In between there’s 60 miles of scenic forest beauty and good road.








Oregon forest roads have this peculiar Soylent Green infesting the tarmac. Its moss and very, very slippery especially when wet. Front washed out twice and the rear once hugely. Instant butt with bike parting company with rider = off seat, get foot down (sliding foot) and a quick wrench up on the bars to right the bike.

McKenzie Pass was open and is a great ride with a tarmac resurface only 2 years old = brilliant ride to the summit and Wright Observatory. Lavaland from some eruption eons ago and the landscape is barren, craggy, sullen.






Steve


Good BBQ burger at some resort beside the river on 126 - The Sculptures were playing a daytime gig




Hwy 126 also a series of 3 falls created by lava flows and interestingly the type of lava decides how the falls will be. The first lava flow results in the spectacular ‘cliff’ type waterfall and third flow makes for the ‘cascading’ type.

The area is loaded with waterfalls. Here’s a type one as it were and the highest of the 3 on 126 at 120’ – Santiam Falls


Oregon is big on boating and fishing – Detroit. Note the rain in the background = that was nothing as it pissed down heavily all the way to Hood River beginning at FR 42.



But this is what you get north from Detroit


FR 42 – good surface, road has many offshoots but is easily followed all the way = one turning is ambiguous but there was a spray paint ‘42’ for bicyclists on the road. Follow the cyclists mmarkings.

Oh Boy, what a difference a round tyre makes. Effortless turn in, gentle push and holds the line without pushing back at me = sweet stuff.

Hood River to White Salmon to Glenwood. Went somewhat pear shaped after that as I couldn’t do the route near Mt. Adams because it meant riding through an Indian Reservation and outsiders are not allowed to do so. Very strange ruling.

High golden pastures – raining of course


Not to worry, a detour southeast to Goldendale put me on Hwy 97 to Yakima and then took the Canyon Hwy to Ellenburg.


Small canyons




The Canyon Hwy wasn’t quite what it is cracked up to be. Its, well, nice, but not special and hampered by a very low 45 mph speed limit that I can see no reason for.  One can easily ride this at 65 and see everything the canyon offers. Even so, it was good to get off 97 for a while.

97 eventually T-bones Hyw 2, which is a wide 2 lane, double yellow with ample passing stretches and is part of the Cascade Scenic Loop. Moving west, it sweeps through the picturesque Wenatchee Mountains hugging the Wenatchee River, rising over Steven’s Pass (4200’) then descends towards Puget Sound following the Skycomish River.





If you ever find yourself needing a motel on Hwy 2, try the Steven’s Pass Motel in Gold Bar. Best value on the trip so far at $50/night and they have a café/bar that serves up excellent Angus steaks and a switched on bartender. All the locals eat and drink here.

[9lives]

Keep the pictures and report coming great reading.   Thanks for posting this one up I'll be following it till the end.  

[Mrs. DantesDame]

Looks good so far!!! I'd apologize for the rain, but you are in the PNW, you know  

Odd about the Indian reservation - I'm not familiar with that  

[bubba zanetti]

Lookin good  

[Kneescrubber]

I rode to Redmond in 2000? for the BMWMOA national. The only time I've ridden in the PNW. I've been itching to go back. You're not helping.  

[notarian]

In Scotland if you don't ride in the rain, you don't ride. I didn't see Crater and Mt. Hood = guess I'll just have to come back again!

Bubba,

Battery died between Arlington and Darrington = a wasted day and will be a couple more days reaching Castlegar. Yamaha dealer in Arlington remained open late to check the battery and bike electrics over. All seems good now and on the road early in the morning. Should make Merrit, then a long ride into Castlegar. I know its the holiday weekend and you may have plans but I'll give you a bell anyway.

Cheers STN'ers - glad you like it so far and I'm really enjoying the travels.

Note

[FJR-UK]

Another top report. Cheers! Looking forward to the next installment

Oroville and Quincy are where my Dad was raised. Grandad was a butcher who drove a pickup with a dog in the bed and a 30.06 and fishing rod on the gun rack in the back window and a .45 automatic in the glove compartment. He would roll a Bull Durham crimp-cut cigarette one-handed while driving.

I remember the Feather River Highway being a favorite (Route 70).

[1KPerDay]

Great pics! Thanks for posting  

[JonS]

What an entertaining ride report! You are showing me some of the great riding I missed when I lived on the west coast. I can't wait for the next installment.

[notarian]

Washington State’s Hwy 20, the Cascade Highway is a fast motoring delight provided it isn’t a holiday weekend and chock o’ block with campers, campers towing trailers, cars towing trailers, mobile homes with their family of 30, mobile homes towing SUV’s, the others are towing boats… you get the idea. With less passing opportunities than Hwy 2, you make the most of overtaking every chance you get. Speed limit be damned, nail the throttle and don’t back off until you have passed everything in sight or as many creepers as possible.

White Horse Mountain = according to a local the snow is glacial and as such is the lowest elevation glacier in North America.


There is a dilemma whether to stop for a photo and have to re-pass 25 campers or forget the pics and get on with the journey. I chose to stop only occasionally but it was enough to become very familiar with the 4-8 wheeled travelers. Enough so that eventually as I re-re-re-passed them, they gave me a wave. It was a frustrating friendship.

By the time I got to Ross Lake, the caravan entourage had thinned considerably. Only the mega die hards were continuing east. However there were cops galore waiting for high speed unsuspecting bikers. I got very lucky – after a high speed series of turns I slowed for a photo op and sure enough where I decided a photo there were state troopers, highway patrol, sheriffs and rangers with radar guns ready at a scenic pull out.


Ross Lake


Hwy 20 is Washington’s answer to a mountain highway as to what California’s Hwy 1 Pacific Coast Highway is to a coastal highway. Very, very scenic, mostly 50 – 60 mph speed limits, 2 wide lanes, double yellow for what seems like 80% of 200 miles. Wonderful Western and Eastern Cascade mountain range perspective with the West being greener and more forested and waterfalls while the East changes to gold and less pine populated. After Oregon and most of western Washington, I really enjoyed the slightly more arid side of the mountain range.






As with all Washington roads I’ve experienced on this trip, Hwy 20 follows several rivers and streams. Dams aplenty and that means lakes.






There are two towns that are kind of strange in that they are ‘theme’ oriented. Levenworth on Hwy 2 has developed a modern Austrian Alps character that doesn’t quite work for me and Winthrop represents the perfect little Wild West town.


Winthrop is a good place to stop for lunch. Wooden ‘sidewalks’ and clapboard siding and there’s down home cooking at Three Fingered Jack’s and fairly good Mex at… – damn, name escapes me and I had lunch there. Never mind, it’s the only Mex in town and the town ain’t very big.

I continued East on 20 over Loop Loop Pass that was good but a bit of a disappointment in that its not very high at 4200’ and all sweepers. I had the road to myself and was pining for some hairpins Alp style. Not to be as I was up and over faster than a virgin boy’s first time.


An Alien on Hwy 20 – note the standard gaunt features and thin frame housing refrigerator size lungs


Got into yet another town beginning with “W” and made a left turn to Conconully. 18 miles later I passed through Shady Lake and its town = didn’t feel right. Turned back after a half mile and sure enough this was Conconully. Petrol, ice tea in the shade (85F), directions to Loomis and I was off down a 30 mile rock road past several lakes to join up with 97 at the obscure scattering of a place called Loomis. Great stuff! The boy’ohs and their V8 pick ups were traveling at 60 mph down a dirt/rock road, kicking up a dust storm tail wake that clouds the contact lenses.




Loomis to the Canadian Nighthawk customs is a shorter ride off 97 than expected and crossed over into Canada just before they closed at 5pm.


Could have made Merritt by 7pm but Keremoes is good enough. Elks Lodge Motel for the night, government boozer for a small Crown Royal and an excellent apricot beer ale as a back. Motel owner recommends a Thai 2 blocks down the main drag. That will do me.


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View Directions to Merritt, BC, Canada in a larger map

[bubba zanetti]

Bill ... sent you a PM with phone number ...

[notarian]

Actually it was a good thing that I didn’t press on to Merritt. The following day began with sunshine with scattered clouds, 65-75F. Perfect.

DD helped substantially with my routing and was on me like a cheap suit about taking the Keremeos / Merritt route. I may not agree with her enamourment with Loop Loop Pass but she was beautifully spot on about sticking to her guns about the Merritt route.

Keremeos is situated in a fertile valley and is now wine country in addition to fruit, veg and cattle. These days almost everywhere seems to be wine country but I was surprised to see it thriving this far north.


Like so many Northwestern roads the one (BC 3) to Princeton is a broad sweeper that follows a river - the Similkameen River. Not much traffic and dotted with pull out rest/camping areas that grant access to swimming holes. Brilliant.


At Princeton, one turns north for Merritt and this one mighty fine travel. After 10 minutes I lost count of the numerous lakes along the way. Keremeos to Merritt should have taken about 2 hours – with all the stops, it took me 3.




What I find wonderful about the country is the colours and landscapes. All the shades of green, gold, blue…the hues of red don’t show in the pics and that’s too bad.


And then there is the road


Lunch in Merritt at Coldwater Hotel in Merrit. Besides a decent burger the menu boasts a silly story about a train robber having hidden $350,000 behind the ceiling mirror in the room below the dome. He finally got caught after going through half. In 1900 that was a lot of dosh!


12 miles north of Merritt there is a ‘shortcut’ through Douglas Ranch (Douglas Lake Road) that empties in Westwold and cuts out most of the boring loop to Vernon. Its hard packed dirt with gravel and worth the ride. You can’t miss the turning point with the log cabin kirk.










Worth the ride until it turns to mud. Raining earlier that day or the night before, Douglas Ranch is 100 miles square and the largest ranch in Canada. The route is 60 miles long and I found it is separated into a North/South range. Dry that day in the south and wet in the north meant the north side was 1-3” of mud. Took almost 2 hours to cover the 30 miles – street tyres may just as well been slicks for all the traction I had.




Following another river into Vernon

[bubba zanetti]

Nice meeting and riding with you Bill. Shame the weather got so cool.  Enjoy the rest of your trip.  

Decidedly cool on my return home over Kootenay Pass where it was down to 4C and rain/sleet which hastened my semi-urgent pit stop at the rest stop on the top.  Too much pulled pork ??  

Ride safe and happy.

[birdrunner]

Another top report. Cheers! Looking forward to the next installment

Oroville and Quincy are where my Dad was raised. Grandad was a butcher who drove a pickup with a dog in the bed and a 30.06 and fishing rod on the gun rack in the back window and a .45 automatic in the glove compartment. He would roll a Bull Durham crimp-cut cigarette one-handed while driving.

I remember the Feather River Highway being a favorite (Route 70).

my daughter in law grew up in Oroville,  small world.

[notarian]

Vernon to Castlegar begins with a high speed blast over Hwy 6 to the Needles/Fauquier ferry at  Arrow Lake. Cold at the top of the Pass but the road is special.


There’s a mad mental stretch on descent into Needles – Yahoo!


Ferry queue – and its free


Just managed to stay ahead of the rain on the Fauquier/Nakusp/Castlegar run




Was of two minds about cutting east to Kaslo as the road is said by many to be the best biking road in BC (if not all of Canada) but wanted to see if STN’er Bubba Zanetti (Jim) had left a message and phone number. If so, I wanted to call well before dinner time to see what he was up to for the evening. Kaslo would have added 2 hours to the journey. As it was, I arrived Castlegar at 5pm, plugged into the Quality Inn (good value at $79), checked the net and sure enough, Jim had replied with a contact number.

Had a mighty fine supper and a couple glasses of vino with Jim and family, talking bikes,  gear, travels, diving and arranged to meet Jim at 9-930 the next morning for a ride eastward.

Jim would go as far as Creston then take the high pass home while I would make for Cranbrook and Eureka, MT.

Very quick stop in the trendy town of Nelson for photos of Baker St. town centre as a tribute to one of my acupuncture instructors in York who is moving to Nelson in a couple of weeks. He’ll be acupuncturist number 6 in a population of 9,000 – and 400,000+ tourists annually.




Just past Nelson is another free ferry across Kootenay Lake.


Ospreys nesting on the ferry pilings


The run down the east side of Kootenay was more trafficked but still a spirited pace. Jim badly needed a pit stop which was too bad as we were fairly flying all the way to Creston. Having way to much fun to stop for pics, I nailed Jim and his KTM in Creston at the cutoff back to Castlegar.


Thank you, Jim - for the BBQ and the ride. It was spot on after many days of solo travel.

The ride to Eureka, MT was uneventful except losing an hour enroute time zone change. Passing through US Customs was as painless as could be with a friendly biker Officer who asked the usual questions and chatted bikes for a couple of minutes. I took his recommendations for lodging and restaurant in Eureka. Manager recommended the fettuccini but wanted something more substantial so I took her up on half of the suggestion - grilled rare New York and substituted fettuccini for the baked potato. Steak was delicious and she was right, the fettuccini was superb. Nice combo and washed down with Newcastle Brown Ale on tap.

The bike is in need of the 15,000km service and wrote the KTM outfit in Great Falls asking if this could be done on Wed. He wrote back this morning that he only works on dirt bikes and recommended the 2 nearest dealers. So, it was a short day from Eureka to Kalispell but took the long way around – down the west side of Koocanusa Lake. I’m assuming the name is three fold? Koo (Kootenay), can (Canada), usa (USA).

Bridge to the west side


West side








Libby Dam


Bridge below the dam to cross back east and pick up Fisher Creek Road to Hwy 2


Wide valley at Kalispell and the mountain wall called The Rockies


15k service in the morning – and all day = gonna be the Big Ouch! Then Glacier Nat Park on Thursday.

BTW, you can legally pass on double yellows in BC as long as you don't impede another vehicle. Double yellows are a cautionary measure only.

Keremeos, BC to Eureka, MT


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Eureka, MT to Glacier National Park


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[notarian]

Nice meeting and riding with you Bill. Shame the weather got so cool.  Enjoy the rest of your trip.  

Decidedly cool on my return home over Kootenay Pass where it was down to 4C and rain/sleet which hastened my semi-urgent pit stop at the rest stop on the top.  Too much pulled pork ??  

Ride safe and happy.

Way too much pulled pork! Pit stops all along the way. Weather was cool, but mostly on the ferry with the wind - hardly noticed the cold on the road to Creston.

Fine ride and thanks again for supper with your family. If ever in Los Gatos... you are welcome at Chere and Chick's whether I'm there or not.

Cheers,

Bill

(ps) Hope the new student speaks the language! See you around, Bubba.

[Mrs. DantesDame]

I'll keep your opinion of Loup Loup in mind for future references    I always liked it because I'm NOT a hairpin sort of girl. I like the even, predictable sweepers and the complete lack of traffic. At least I was able to redeem myself later  

[birdrunner]

Selfishly,  I'm glad you're getting the shitty weather,  means it'll be fantastic for me next week,   right????

[notarian]

Selfishly,  I'm glad you're getting the shitty weather,  means it'll be fantastic for me next week,   right????

  You would!  

And, yep - next week should see sunny skies again. In addition to the bike service (yesterday) I'm having the starter torque limiter replaced. Known KTM 950 problem = began 'clanking'/not engaging last week and getting worse to a point that I fear it will run the battery down before engaging long enough to start the bike. Parts will be here this afternoon.

So, I'm holed up in Kalispell, Flathead Valley, Montana until tomorrow when the weather should be a bit better. Its snowing in Glacier at the moment. Looking at it as good timing for service/repair.

I'll keep your opinion of Loup Loup in mind for future references    I always liked it because I'm NOT a hairpin sort of girl. I like the even, predictable sweepers and the complete lack of traffic. At least I was able to redeem myself later

Understated DD - ride to Merritt is brilliant. Loup Loup is just part of the road and my fault for thinking/wanting it to be different then what it is.

Uh, does that make me a hairpin sort of guy?  

[Mrs. DantesDame]

Oh, and I'm really glad you got to go through Douglas Ranch. Zarly and I rode through there once and some official-type person waved for us to stop. Turns out he was checking for poachers. I assured him that we had no intentions of bagging any wildlife  

[birdrunner]

So, I'm holed up in Kalispell, Flathead Valley, Montana until tomorrow when the weather should be a bit better. Its snowing in Glacier at the moment. Looking at it as good timing for service/repair.



Understated DD - ride to Merritt is brilliant. Loup Loup is just part of the road and my fault for thinking/wanting it to be different then what it is.

Uh, does that make me a hairpin sort of guy?  

there are worse places to stuck than Kalispell.


I'll be trying Merritt in a week,   based out of Penticton, visiting my son.   Thanks for taking care of that "weather thing" for me.

[1Arm]

Thanks for the refresher on northern MT and the intro to Canada, going north of the border may be next summer's vacation for me

[notarian]

Am in Carbondale, Colorado and on the motel computer. Would have updated two days ago, but the motel internet was not compatible with my Mac.

Came over independence Pass East to West towards Aspen at 530pm last night and on the lower western section right after I turned into a corner at speed and leaned over I nailed a 12" diameter x 6" deep pothole. Impact was good enough to dent both front and rear rims. 530pm heading into the sun with mountain shadows and glaring sun = the pot hole was right at the edge of sun and treeline shadow and with me looking well through the corner and down the road, I only saw it a nanosecond before the Big Bang.

At the motel I turned on the computer and it powers on but there is no light in the screen (blackout).

1/ KTM dealer says the rims are still good as there is no air leaking. He convinced me that I can continue the journey with my customary speed and style and have the rims repaired in the Bay Area when I finish.

2/ Computer screen is a simple integral back light that was broken by the jolting impact. Being an outdated Mac G4 Powerbook (2004), the part needs to be ordered and takes a week. I was ready to buy new as I've been thinking about it for awhile now, however it must be the 13" and aluminium rather than plastic (you should see the dents in this one = plastic wouldn't last me a month). Unfortunately the Mac dealer didn't have one. Will wait on that one probably until Ca.

Reckon with a lesser quality suspension I'd have been down and out - and the same with lesser quality rims. Today is another day wasted and that's 5 so far. I've already cut out going to the Black Hills and now I can no longer afford to linger anywhere.

As for the RR on the run, I think it'll have to wait until its over. Hardly practical to download pics into a hotel computer - move them into Photoshop - paste into Word and paste in the forum.

Such is life, eh? But there's some good stuff between Kalispell and Carbondale and much more from here to California.

Later,

Note

[JGreb]

Terrific ride report.

sorry to hear about your misfortune on indendence pass.  I just crossed over it a week ago and I remember seeing a few pot holes.  Good job keeping it upright.

[notarian]

Back in computer business = New Mac 13” purchased in St. George, Utah. There’s a lot to catch up on since Montana.

Finally left Kalispell on Friday after a bike service, starter torque limiter replacement that allowed the weather to pass. However, the weather didn’t want to pass over Glacier National Park and my route through the Park was a mostly a waste of time.






The Road into the Sun was socked in solid by the time I arrived nearer the top of the pass. Rain changed to hail / sleet and I watched the wind push the cloud cover deeper into the valleys. After a short while I hardly saw anything 1000’ above the Park floor with all the peaks well shrouded in cloud.

Road works on the Road into the Sun went on for 50% of the travel (Eastern side). One lane flag women, mud and what I must assume is a mixture of sand and chemicals to allow traction = the Road into Hell.

As passed the summit, there was a queue of vehicles just being let through the one lane and I was about 100 metres behind the last car in the train. The flagwomen stopped me, saying I was too late and would have to wait.

I told the HMFIC that I could catch the last car in 15 seconds. This Nazi Youth Camp gradutate told me ‘No, I’ve radioed ahead and told them the last car.

I said, ‘Radio ahead and tell them you let a motorcycle through and it will be right behind the last car.’

‘No, you’ll have to wait.’

Wait I did – for 30 minutes in 35F, hail and sleet, 30 mph wind – all the while mentally microwave slow cooking this woman on ‘Defrost’, poking out her eyes so she will forever be wandering the spirit world in death and never finding the everlasting big buffalo range in the sky.

East of Glacier = East of the Rockies the sky was clear, temperatures warmed and all was right in the world except the road. Hwy 89 south from Glacier is virtually an arrow, but the Prairie is a wonderland of colours – for a while. Problem is that change is long in coming and the wonderland of colours becomes sameness and endless. It is beautiful, but by baldheaded Christ, it does become boring in the best possible way.






Lewis and Clark forest park provided a bit of a jolly with an Aussie touring on his brother in laws Buell 1125 (not a bonny bike is it?) and a local brother in law friend on a Harley – 40 miles of high speed sweepers and still had time to take in the scenery.

Wind River Canyon down by Shoshone is another section of 12 miles that is very special and I led a couple sport bikes through it at a spirited pace and still had time to admire the cliff walls and train tracks following the river. Such is the nature of the ride = when you get something, anything – you take full advantage to go quickly through a corner or a bend.

I haven’t mentioned that rider and bike have come together after a slow marriage. The KTM feels like it should, natural. That happened somewhere back in Washington. Not as rider friendly and comfortable as the 1098 or first model Multistrada but I can do 6 – 8 hours with discomfort only coming after 6 hours. I carry a backpack with foul weather gear a few other lightweight items. Although it’s a Kriega 25 litre and designed for motorbiking, the upright riding position still weighs on the left shoulder and I’ve taken to bunging it to the top box = much better!

I don’t know if the wind in the Prairies prevails year round in Montana and Wyoming from the southwest, but it has been constant and with my heading south the wind comes at me from the 2 o’c position. Personally, I’d rather a headwind than a side or semi-side wind as it fatigues the neck especially at constant high speed.

Enough with the road bit already.

Red Lodge and Yellowstone.

First, if you are in Red Lodge there are heaps of places to stay. The biker with knowledge will choose either the Beartooth Hideaway Inn or the Yodeler Inn. I stopped first at the Yodeler on a recommendation from a forum biker and seeing the Yam / sidecar out front. No vacancy, but the girl called the Beartooth where they had a room normally at $99 discounted to $70 because it was a local referral. Cool, the locals take care of themselves and the tourists.

Beartooth Hideaway has a large heated pool that also allows the grammar school children to swim free under school instruction on selective days during the week, promotes and sponsors local youth teams and brings to light such things as a Red Lodge 11 year old karate under 12 national champion and 12 year old girl doing award winning quilt embroidery. The latter being not so spectacular but impressive none the less.

The General Manager is Terry Tomlin, a very squared away broad who has a switched on young staff that has been with her for 5 years and a housekeeper that is continually head hunted by every other lodging outfit in Red Lodge.

Then there is the ‘Cat’. This isn’t any ordinary cat although it looks like one. No, no – this one make headlines in the local paper for chasing Brown Bears up trees when the bears decide to mosey on the property. Terry says the best thing about feline companion is the cat hates snakes as much as Terry does = ain’t no snakes around.

It gets better… Beartooth Inn is located at the western edge of Red Lodge and is a ½ mile walk to town. If you need a ride to town for drinks and dinner (which you will), the Inn will either drive you there and collect or arrange for a taxi (all Red Lodge establishments will get you a taxi back home).

Here’s a kicker. Restaurants in Red Lodge are numerous but there are two that stand out. Bridge Creek is one and is very good if you are looking for something more special. Not over the top price wise = I had home made meat loaf with mash, excellent garlic zuccini  and wild mushroom sauce for $22 with a local dark beer. Second night had a bowl of clam chowder that was superb and 3 starters all severed at once – Elks skewers, spinach salad (very good) and fried artichoke hearts. Couldn’t eat it all and in hindsight would have ordered the soup and 2 starters, with a double whisky and pint of dark beer = $33.00.

That’s good value.

Beartooth Hideaway and Terry


Took Beartooth Pass into Yellowstone and spent the day traveling through the Park. Never been there before and now I understand why Yellowstone is America’s premier park. It isn’t any one or two wonders that make the area special. It’s the sum of the parts that make the whole. Except for not having a desert, if there is any one place that represents the West it is Yellowstone National Park.








Sitting on my bike and waiting for the Bison to get clear of the road, this brute passed by me 3' away.

"I say William, have you shit yourself yet?"


Beartooth Pass gets the most rider press and Chief Joseph Highway plays second fiddle. Personally, this should be reversed. Beartooth is good, but Chief Joe is better.








And the road

[Mrs. DantesDame]

Glad to see that you've recovered digitally and are able to share the earlier ride with us!

Personally, considering the weather conditions, I think I would have been tempted to just ignore the woman on Going to the Sun Rd and let her figure out how to "catch" you after you've went around her. Stupid woman...  

[stromgal]

Great report! Sorry we weren't able to keep our planned meet-up in Red Lodge, but I now understand why you were delayed. As it turns out, Yellowstone weather was better for you being two days behind me; I had rain, cold, and snow. Rode Beartooth in the rain as well.

[birdrunner]

Selfishly,  I'm glad you're getting the shitty weather,  means it'll be fantastic for me next week,   right????

My plan for good weather didn't quite work out.  2 weeks of shitty weather for me.

Oh well, there's always next year.

[notarian]

My plan for good weather didn't quite work out.  2 weeks of shitty weather for me.

Oh well, there's always next year.

Sorry to hear that, Bird. Once the front ended in Kalispell I've had nothing but fantastic weather. Maybe a bit too hot for my liking, but clear, sunny skies for the whole journey.

Cooler now that I'm in California (Sierras), but perfect at 75F.

[notarian]

Spent 2 hours yapping with Terry and didn’t get out of Red Lodge until 11am. I could make Walden, Colorado by nightfall, but realistically Rawlins, Wyoming is probably today’s destination. That’s about 2 hours short of Walden.

I’m not one for riding late into the evening and like to finish the day with plenty of time for a shower, a walk about the town, a few whiskies / beers and supper. That means I’m done by 6pm for sure and usually 5pm.

Bagged a room in Rawlins at the Motel 6 or Quality Inn = they run together after awhile – after chiseling the receptionist down from $119 to $70. Rawlins is an oil town and companies pay the price for beaming in their workers.

Little point in more flatland photos and it was only past Walden on Hwy 125 (Willow Creek Pass) that the landscape changed to resemble what I think of as the Colorado Rockies. At last I was back in the mountains with streams and roads that have curves – motorcycle land.




Leadville, CO


Independence Pass






Independence Pothole Aftermath




Staying in Rawlins ended up being a good thing in that I only made Carbondale the following day rather than Gunnison. This gave me a fine, quiet morning ride down 133/92 through the Black Canyon. Whereas, had I been pressing for Gunnison in the late afternoon the day before I wouldn’t have had the light and time for the Canyon. It is stunning.




And the road is good too


I’ve all but memorized the roads I’ll ride on the journey and don’t carry maps, let alone a sat nav and made the sole mistake when 92 met hwy 50. I wanted to do 149 south and eventually Durango, but turned west on 50 and headed to Montrose instead. After 15 miles, I realized I had probably messed up but rather than backtrack I carried on to ride 550 (Million Dollar Hwy).
Picked up 550 in Montrose heading south through Ouray.




If the road leading south out of Ouray is indicative of the Million Dollar Highway then it is indeed a stunner. But, 3 miles outside Ouray there was road works and another one lane travel and a queue of vehicles that disappeared around the far corner. I counted 70 cagers, trucks, campers, motorhomes… and with two police watching traffic I wasn’t about to cross the double yellow or pass on the right. I had pulled in next to a fellow bike traveler who had been waiting for 15 minutes. We chatted for another 15 minutes when I decided this wasn’t for me and turned back have decided to ride through Telluride to Cortez.

Okay, I missed Colorado’s most outstanding road in doing so, but I had the other all to myself and is a brilliant ride as well.












A cracker homestead!


15 miles before reaching Cortez the landscape began to change and I knew I was entering the Ford / Wayne Southwest regions.

Tomorrow, Monument Valley.


View Larger Map

[notarian]

100 degrees and feels like 120 degrees. Hot and dry, that’s the southwest and arid except for a few pockets of moisture making for desert fluorescent greens.


Mexican Hat


Bluff Twin Towers


It’s only 5 Bucks to get into Monument Valley = that’s a surprise when its $10 for a movie and another $10 for popcorn and a pop. But the state of the ‘dirt’ road doesn’t warrant a higher price causing most tourists to pay the extra for the Indian Shuttle Bus and I found out why in the first 10 minutes. Off I went, thinking hard packed dirt and maintained in reasonable shape.

Wrong. Very, very wrong. Second hill 100 metres of foot deep red sand/powder. Front end going every which way, both feet on the sand, making my way slowly to the bottom – street tyres. That was work just getting down, what’s it going to be like getting out? Oh well, I’m in now so might as well get on with it.

Monument Valley is indeed spectacular and unless one is a pro photographer you can’t capture the visuals like John Ford and Cinemascope 70mm. Worth a visit? Absolutely, if in the area. As a one off special trip, Nah - I’d just as soon let Ford and the Duke take me there.

Iconic John Ford Cinema Stuff  using a Point and Shoot






As magnificent as Monument Valley was, there something even better to come – the ride to Hall’s Crossing. Road 261 starts out paved, then turns to dirt as it hairpin climbs onto the higher plains.






Then back to tarmac after the climb


Arrived Hall’s Crossing at 3:30 = just in time to catch the 4 o’clock ferry to Bullfrog. Except there is no 4 o’c ferry. No, no, last ferry is now 2pm.

Two days ago the ferry operators changed to their fall schedule and didn’t tell anyone. Even the US Government Park Management didn’t know about this until yesterday.

Hall’s Crossing has a marina, a limited but expensive store that specializes in ‘ice’ and a mobile home park that doubles as a campground. Te mobile home park manager listened to my huge moan about the ferry changes, said if I want to stay it would be $250 + tax for a 3 bedroom house. Otherwise, it’s a 3-4 hour run in a round about way of reaching Bullfrog.

The Burr Trail begins in Bullfrog and this was a road that I was not prepared to miss out on. After I settled down a bit, he and I talked about things in general, some personal experiences, etc… and he had a brainstorm thought. He had a home with water damage in the main bedroom and wasn’t able to rent it. I could have it for  the night at $100. Bargain! Done!

Quick trip to the marina store for a microwave enchilada, green salad, 4 beers and a lime ($19.45) and I was set for the evening. I still had a bit left in a half bottle of Patron tequila that I’d been nursing for a few days.

My own porch, a cold beer and iced 100% aguave with lime – it all came good in the end.


Early start tomorrow with the 8am ferry, the Burr Trail and Hwy 12. Oh Boy, oh boy, oh boy…

[stromgal]

Continued awesome.  When I got home I rented Ford's "The Searchers" so I could relive Monument valley in Cinemascope.

Burr Trail will be neat (the western part which used to be asphalt is now loose gravel), but the real treat will be Hwy. 12. Will you go north to Torrey or south toward Escalante when you come in at Boulder?  If N. to Torrey, there's a nice motel on the western edge of town on Hwy. 24, the Boulder View Inn. Most excellent view of bluffs across the road to watch the sunset play upon while sipping your Woodford Reserve...er, Patron; and the Capitol Reef Inn and Cafe across the road has good food.

'Course, you will have accomplished whatever the next part of the trip is by the time you read this, anyway.  

[notarian]

Continued awesome.  When I got home I rented Ford's "The Searchers" so I could relive Monument valley in Cinemascope.

Burr Trail will be neat (the western part which used to be asphalt is now loose gravel), but the real treat will be Hwy. 12. Will you go north to Torrey or south toward Escalante when you come in at Boulder?  If N. to Torrey, there's a nice motel on the western edge of town on Hwy. 24, the Boulder View Inn. Most excellent view of bluffs across the road to watch the sunset play upon while sipping your Woodford Reserve...er, Patron; and the Capitol Reef Inn and Cafe across the road has good food.

'Course, you will have accomplished whatever the next part of the trip is by the time you read this, anyway.  

Yep, too right = I have completed this part of the journey. Loved the Burr. Tarmac, dirt, sand, washboards, a few ruts, gravel and back to tarmac. A very intimate place and a wonderful ride. Finished with the Burr around 1 o'c in Boulder and shot up to Torrey at a medium pace to take in Hwy 12's scenery then turned right around and raced south 60 miles to Escalante. What a road!!

Nailed a room in Escalante for two nights at the Prospector Inn for $50 and ate both suppers at the large cafe across the street and up 50 metres. Can't remember the name but the grub is good, except for the veg = frozen green bean and carrot stuff that wasn't well received and I asked for a replacement salad that is good. Fish tacos are very, very good and the steak is large (14 oz) and delicious.

You got the bad weather in Yellowstone while I was in Kalispell waiting for bike repair but caught a bit at the tail end coming over Glacier. Weather has been brilliant ever since!

[notarian]

Lake Powell and the Hall’s Crossing 8am ferry to Bullfrog, Utah = 2 cars and one motor bike.




Riding east to west, the Burr Trail begins 7 miles north of Bullfrog marina and is an intimate ride of 72 miles to Boulder, Utah. The entire trail is a visual kaleidoscope of stunning landscapes, colours and with a some challenging riding thrown in.

Riding west the road is good tarmac for the first 15-20 miles.










The surface changes to hard packed dirt and rock as the visual feast continues


The road climbs and switchbacks up a high plateau with dirt, pebbles, rocks, ruts and some sand. A dual purpose would be the machine of choice but this is nothing a street bike can’t handle too.






The surface changes back to tarmac at about mile 35-40, but in a short while changes again. This time it is newly placed gravel. I’m supposing it’s for winter because the surface below is tarmac.

The gravel portion must go on for another 10-15 miles through less spectacular scenes until arriving at the Canyon. This is as beautiful a section of road that I’ve ever ridden.












Past the canyon, the reds are less vivid and merge with the regions whiter landscapes




Cowboy civilization raises its head only when nearing Boulder


The Burr Trail was a fabulous introduction to the motorcycle wonderland that is southern Utah. Highly recommended.

The Burr Trail ends/begins in Boulder, Utah at Hwy 12. I arrived at the junction around 1pm, 90F and the heat wick was being turned up even higher that day. I’d been told that Hwy 12 between Escalante and Torrey is one of the best rides in North America. This is true.

12 is a scenic byway and a road made for motor biking. Onto 12 at Boulder and took my time getting to Torrey (about 40 miles), soaking up the landscape and views. At Torrey, I gassed up and let it rip to Escalante. Fast sweepers, not so fast sweepers, those wonderful 90 degree turns, some hairpins, long runs of squigglies, blind crests with turns directly afterward. Hwy 12 pretty much has everything one could ask for – including tar snakes. Normally, I’m not bothered by them but in searing heat they become very slippery and the ones that follow the road (not perpendicular) can be disconcerting. Twice the front end lost traction and I dialed down a notch in speed.

With the heat and the fun of the road I didn’t stop much for pics.






View Directions to Escalante, UT, USA in a larger map

[bubba zanetti]

Awesom Bill ... I am takin notes for next year !!  

[birdrunner]

No need to take notes Bubba,  I'm sure there're plenty who would love to tell you where to go.



Great pics Bill,  thanks.

[notarian]

I’d read much about the Parks in southern Utah and spent the following day visiting Kodachrome State and Bryce Canyon National Parks.

Kodachrome’s name comes from a Kodak photo shoot in 1949 to introduce their newest and innovated film called Kodachrome. The company couldn’t have chosen a more perfect location. The park is noted for its colours and rock pillar formations.








The offshoot of Kodachrome park is two roads off the main entrance road, Skudempah and Cottonwood Canyon roads that should not be missed. However, both were rated as impassible by the Ranger Information Centres in Escalante and Cannonville (2nd opinion) for cars and street tyred motorcycles. Even 4 wheel drive vehicles are encouraged not to attempt Skudempah road.

A third opinion with the Kodachrome ranger confirmed Skudempah road was not accessible because of deep sand but figured Cottonwood Canyon could be done. However, the latter had not been maintained for 3 years and after the heavy summer rains the 42 mile dirt track is now deeply rutted, continual foot high washboarding and some deeper sands.

This lack of maintenance is a shame because within a 15 mile radius of the park these two roads offer easily accessed scenic beauties. (Not my photos).

Willis Creek off Skudempah


Cottonwood Canyon Road offers Grosvenor Arch, Cottonwood Narrows and the Grand Staircase, Round Valley Slot Canyon






Bryce Canyon Park is roughly 30 miles west of Kodachrome. The overlook viewing parking lots are below the canyon rim but only a short walk up the hill. The first sighting is absolutely jaw dropping and the camera cannot capture its sheer size and number of rock formation towers.






Elk / deer are not bothered by human presence


Stopped at a Hwy 12 scenic pull out and shortly after a trio of bikes I’d met at a roadworks near Monument Valley pulled in. Where I’d gone through Hall’s Crossing, these blokes had ridden to Page and now riding in opposite directions. At Monument Valley I was thinking of the deep sand I’d gotten through and was thinking there was no chance for the HD rider. Sure enough, he saw it and decided rightly not to attempt it.


I was now getting concerned about the state of my tyres and a 3rd set replacement. At the end of the day and fuelling up in Escalante for the next morning ride a chap on a Panhead HD came up and introduced himself as the Desert Doctor – only motorcycle repairman in the area.

He had a couple of makes of tyres in 180/55 - 120/70, handed me a card and said drop by to have a look. Well, this would be astonishingly convenient if I were to take in the North Rim of the Grand Canyon as planned.

The Doc Shop


Well, he didn’t have but one to choose from = a brand I’d never heard of “Full Bore USA-1” made in Korea – for $180 (rear). Okay, $180 is steep for sure but for a non named brand probably over the top pricewise. Still, all the tyre numbers were a match and I asked how much to mount and balance. I thought he said $200 and takes cash only. Fine, I had $200 in cash on me and said so. No, no, I’d heard wrong and it was $300.

Not being desperate, I passed. $180 for a $120 tyre might be acceptable given the circumstances but $120 to mount it was way out of whack when I my route would take me to St. George, Utah and a full set of Pirelli or Michelin mounted and balanced would eventually cost $326.

Not being desperate did not mean I would visit the North Rim after all. It meant I’d ride through Zion National Park to St. George, find a dealer to replace both tyres and pay a visit to a Mac computer dealer to see about a new laptop. Both of  which worked out perfectly.

The main road through Zion is under construction but not as intrusive as others I’ve been to on this trip. Waiting times at one lane controlled stops are minimal. The park is brilliant although to see the real sights on the interior roads one must take the shuttle bus as all private vehicles are prohibited. Therefore, the main road would have to do me.

[notarian]

The difficulties due to lack of maintenance with Cottonwood Canyon Road was a disappointment as I was so looking forward to riding this route south to Hwy 89 and in doing so cut out the huge round about paved 89 to Page. Cottonwood connects with 89 about 30 miles west of Page.

But those 42 miles of wonderland shortcut could well take all day and what fun it would not be negotiating ruts, deep sand and being pounded to death on constant, large washboards. I’d had plenty of that to contend with already and the thought of far worse to come put me right off my fresh fried eggs. And, Page would have been ideal to replace the tyres and still spend the night at North Rim via Lee’s Ferry.

Nope, it wasn’t to be this trip. Instead, I spent the night in St. George after an afternoon of new tyres and computer complete with data transfer from the broken Mac.

St. George to Vegas = one big Ugh and more LEO (8) than I’d seen during the entire 8000 miles. At North Vegas it was a turn north on Hwy 95 and more of the most boring riding ever with a heat that caused me to remove my gloves and stuff them round the back of my jacket (instead of putting them in the backpack).

The plan was to make Bishop, Ca for the night and that meant a route over Nevada’s 266 connecting with Calif 168 to 395. I’d read that 168 is a marvelous road and after the endless straight lining this was what I needed to end the day.

Arriving at the 266 – 168 connection I stopped to put the gloves back on only to find that I now only had one. Feel as I might to find the second glove, I took the jacket off and sure enough the glove was MIA.

My leathers zip 360 degrees to the trousers and although I had ridden with the jacket half zipped up one glove had blown out. I wouldn’t have thought it possible, but this is what 100+ mph with strong head and side winds can do.

When the roads get twisty and riding more spirited the gloves definitely go back on = unless I can find the same Racer gloves along the way its now its one summer glove and one winter glove for the last few days of the trip.

Hwy 168 is a hoot with seemingly a hundred blind crests (more like blind humps and bumps) and the contour of the land mostly means you can only see one turn at a time. Guessing where the road goes is exactly that and one guesses right about 2/3 of the time. 168 is a cracking good ride with a good surface.






I hadn’t been over Tioga Pass in Yosemite for 40 years and would take me into Sonora. It’s spectacular route marred heavily by motor homes, campers and cars. I’ve come to the conclusion it should be illegal for motor homes (especially towing an SUV) to leave the Interstate highways.

And this is a small one


Mono Lake and entrance to Tioga


Tioga






Dropping into foothills





2 nights in Sonora with a day on Hwy 4, Monitor Pass and Hwy 108 = some of the best riding in the state.

Hwy 4 has just about everything one could wish for. 2 lane sweepers changing to a fairly wide single lane and beautiful vistas, lakes. However, there is presently 4 sections of roadwork with new top layer tarmac being completed. The route will be even better next year. Dinna fret, the rest of the road is in very good knick too.














The Sierra Nevada mountain range east and west sides are polar opposites. The west side begins with foothills and slowly increases in altitude to the summits making for lazier, flatter and more open turns. Whereas the east side elevations drop off sharply, steeper and is more dynamic. With the vistas, pinewoods and steep single track, it was like riding Corsica for two hours on the eastern section of Hwy 4.


Half of Monitor Pass is also in a re-tarmac state and the waiting time can be substantial. Again, when finished it will be brilliant.

Hwy 108 completed the day’s loop and the road wonders of the day continued. 108 is simply smashing.














Want a premo day out? You can’t do much better than 4, Monitor and 108. I did 4 east and returned west via 108 but reckon either way is just as fine.

Sonora is the perfect base for this too. Best place to stay is probably right downtown at the Sonora Inn ($70) with very friendly watering hole across the street – Zane’s Ironhorse Lounge run by Crissy. As for eats, depends on what you fancy and just ask her where to dine.

[notarian]

Final day is a 6 hour jaunt returning to Los Gatos. 28 days overall with 23 riding days and 5 days of downtime for bike service, repairs, dented rims and waiting on weather. The 7600 miles encompassed 9 western states and a good portion of southern British Columbia. It’s been a good run.

Sonora across the San Joaquin Valley is utterly forgettable but it isn’t the prairies or Nevada desert so this time across was really a doddle of 2 hours. Things do get much better upon leaving Patterson, Ca and Del Puerto Canyon Road leading over Mt. Hamilton past the observatory and onwards to the Pit of San Jose.

Del Puerto Canyon Road




Refreshing Root Beer Float at The Junction - Hwy 130 and Mines Road




Then it was time to tackle the last remaining road to home. Mt. Hamilton (130) is one of the better climbs in the state and this was the first time riding east to west. Its far better riding this direction with 20 nice hairpins on a decent surface climbing from the east whereas the western side surface is lousy to say the best for it and badly in need of repair, at times very narrow, dirty, rock strewn. The best tarmac is in the foothill residential area and in the go slow zone.










However, it was a great way to end the ride with a hazy view of the entire South Bay.


Reunion time for SM950 and his pals (14 of them)

“Yo Guys. Guess where I’ve been!”


Map incorrectly shows a route around Zion because Google can’t recognise the park road of Hwy 9.

View Directions to Sonora, CA, USA in a larger map

Sonora routes 4, Monitor Pass, 108 and return to Los Gatos

View Directions to Los Gatos, CA, USA in a larger map

[bubba zanetti]

Thanks for taking us along Bill !

A truly epic report !  

[Blunder]

Excellent. Most excellent.  

Tell us about the Honda pictured here, could you?

[Mrs. DantesDame]

Welcome "home"  

Great report. I really need to spend more time in southern Utah...

[Orson]

Final day is a 6 hour jaunt returning to Los Gatos. 28 days overall with 23 riding days and 5 days of downtime for bike service, repairs, dented rims and waiting on weather. The 7600 miles encompassed 9 western states and a good portion of southern British Columbia. It’s been a good run.

Holy kwap!  

This wuz supposed to be a British Columbia trip report!  

First you traipse all across Western Europe, then you cover everything west of the Mississippi!  

You suck worse than I do!  

 

[notarian]

Great report. I really need to spend more time in southern Utah...

Too right DD. Everyone should try Utah because it really is a visual paradise with good twisty roads, hard packed off tarmac stuff and superb adventure trails taking one to stunning places. For those rides not gotten to I would gladly have traded Bubba for his KTM Adventurer for a day or 3.

I forgot to mention the area between Cedar City and Bryce Canyon - namely Hwy's 14 and 143 - for more scenic, twisty tarmac pleasure. Then there is the dirt road from Escalante to Devil's Garden and further on to Hole-in the- Rock. For the adventure bike - Hells Backbone in addition to Skudempah and Cottonwood Canyon roads. There are more, but these and those roads previously mentioned are a fine sample of what's on offer.

[notarian]

Holy kwap!  

This wuz supposed to be a British Columbia trip report!  

First you traipse all across Western Europe, then you cover everything west of the Mississippi!  

You suck worse than I do!  

 

It's called 'retirement', Will and quite suitable for everyone over 60 (for sure, younger if one can manage it)  

Just to rub it in a bit more = got back to Chere's on Friday and spent all Monday and Tuesday (yesterday) racing the new BMW RR1000S superbike at Laguna Seca. Fast machine indeed and very nimble like a 600cc. Haven't been on the Laguna track since 1970 so the infield section is new to me with turn 2 being a bugger to master, but got it down pat now and would never have dreamed that I'd be skimming a knee on what is now turn 9.

[Orson]

Haven't been on the Laguna track since 1970 so the infield section is new to me with turn 2 being a bugger to master, but got it down pat now and would never have dreamed that I'd be skimming a knee on what is now turn 9.

 

I remember reading an Eddie Lawson interview where he said that he treated Turn 2 as two separate corners.

[notarian]

 

I remember reading an Eddie Lawson interview where he said that he treated Turn 2 as two separate corners.

Exactly Orson. There are 2 apexes with the first being taken 5-6' out from the first which sets the bike to run out a bit. Then, 2/3 of the way round the decreasing radius left hand turn, you push a fraction more on the left bar to increase the lean slightly and help it by hook turning into the second apex aiming for the inside line to turn 3 - rolling on harder and harder as you stand the bike up. I'm nowhere remotely near an 'A' racer pace, but its still an intoxicating sensation when it feels so right.

As for Lawson, funny you should mention him as he was one of the subjects of practicing my braking for half of Tuesday. Someone said there is a video of him and front fork movement (or rather lack of movement) from his finish of braking for a turn and rolling on the power on exit. The transition between braking and maintaining perfect balance through the corner until getting on the throttle is clearly shown by the front forks never varying more than 2mm.

Now that is truly the stuff of dreams.

[nevinfs327]

Excellent report and pics once again.  Thanks  

[notarian]

Thanks for taking us along Bill !

A truly epic report !  

Cheers Jim and my pleasure. Big Thanks again for the hospitality in Castlegar!

Excellent. Most excellent.  

Tell us about the Honda pictured here, could you?

I've passed this on to the owner, Chick (my daughter's boy friend) and shown in the first part of this report as he accompanied me the first 2 days. Chick will respond with info on his '86 NS400R. Of the 15 bikes, I think Chick owns 11 of them.

My personal favourite of his is the 2000/2001 SP1 (RC51) track bike



Followed by a close second

[chickwebb]

That Kwak may be my favorite, too.  I've got several street-legal two-strokes, though, so it's hard to say.  The latest is an '86 NS400R, in remarkably good and original condition:



The NS400R is Honda's race replica of the NS500 that Freddie Spencer used to win the 500cc MotoGP championship in 1985.  Three cylinder, 90 degree, water cooled, oil injected.  Narrow powerband (7k-10k is about it), but it pulls very hard there and handles like a dream.  Only 15,000 km on it, and other than the Jolly Moto pipes it's stock.  Very good condition, too.

It's little brother is a '88 NSR250, which is the race replica of the NSR250 that the same Freddie Spencer used to win the 250cc MotoGP championship in... 1985!   (He's the only guy every to win both championships in one year, BTW, a record that will probably stand for a while, maybe forever.)  The little guy is gonna get a proper race replica paint job eventually, but for now it looks like this:



Two cylinder, 90 degree, water cooled, oil injected.  Light and fast.  Motor spins up very quick.  All stock other than the paint scheme on the aftermarket fairings.

I've also got a '75 MT250 that I use for kicking around town:



I've partially restored this one.  Runs good.  Fast and fun.  Loud enough to annoy the neighbors.  Smoky, too!  

I love the smell of two-stroke oil in the morning... it smells like VICTORY!  

[bubba zanetti]

I've also got a '75 MT250 that I use for kicking around town:



I've partially restored this one.  Runs good.  Fast and fun.  Loud enough to annoy the neighbors.  Smoky, too!  

I love the smell of two-stroke oil in the morning... it smells like VICTORY!  

My first street legal bike and I bought it new for $875 ... had a ball on the Elsinore and learned a bunch riding it off road.

Great collection and welcome to St.n !!!  

[seraph_rapture]

Brings back memories from being out west last year.  Thanks for letting us live vicariously!

[yotes65]

Some truly fabulous photo’s… thank you for sharing

[JonS]

Now that I have read the whole report, I would have to label you a"disturber of the peace". Here it is November and now I want to go on a very long ride and do all the great roads you did, which I haven't. For the last 20 years I have lived in 3 of the states you went through ( not Nevada, thank God) and in each one, I learned about roads I have never been on. Obviously, I've been a slacker and I plan to make things right, but it's...the middle of November. . I'm kidding, well, sort of.   It was, truly, a great report. Thanks!

[notarian]

Thanks again Fellas.

JonS, you live in SE Utah = a truly great riding area with stunning scenery!

I meant to post some info earlier on wheel straightening in the San Francisco Bay Area. Gerry Piazza is a master at straightening frames and wheels. He removed both wheels from the bike, straightened both, balanced and reinstalled for $300, as opposed to a used KTM 950SM rear wheel on ebay asking $450.

Recommended

http://www.gpframeandwheel.com/index.html

[kyzrex]

day after Thanksgiving here, and have the 1st snow of the year on the ground, temps in the 30's and windy......worst day since last winter

thank you for a way to forget that I can't be out riding today.  great report.

patrick

[DogBoy]

Late to the party on this report. I'm ten kinds of jealous. Thanks so much for the excellent write-up and pics.  

[BwanaDik]

Outstanding RR!    I've ridden some of the sections around Glacier and thru CO and UT but didn't know about the cool stuff in central WA and BC.  Inspiration for a trip next year.

Thanks for taking us along!

[Skee]

Late to the party on this report. I'm ten kinds of jealous.  

+1 Outstanding

I've traveled out that way, & just amazed that you took on Muir Trail and went into some places like Grosover Arch on streebikes  (well, maybe they've paved the road by now, but it weeren't too pretty last time I was on it)  

Absolutely amazing

[notarian]

+1 Outstanding

I've traveled out that way, & just amazed that you took on Muir Trail and went into some places like Grosover Arch on streebikes  (well, maybe they've paved the road by now, but it weeren't too pretty last time I was on it)  

Absolutely amazing

Not paved and absolutely diabolical at times. Worth it though.

[explr]

Great RR and Pics!  Thanks for taking the time to share your adventure!