The West

[notarian]

Blew into Los Gatos, Ca on Sunday and spent 3 days readying the bike (service and installed heated grips) and 5 days spending time with family and friends. Some would say I was fortunate to arrive during a heat wave, but having just spent several weeks riding Europe in such conditions, more 100F was not needed.

Off with the KTM on Friday with Chick (daughter’s boyfriend) on his VFR. Destination is Los Gatos to Quincy, Ca. Then Quincy to Fortuna = first 2 days of a 30 day / 7000 miles journey of the West.

An hour of uneventful motorway got us from Los Gatos over the Benitez Bridge to Suisun Valley Road (Napa vino country) where the fun begins with another half hour to Lake Berryessa (Spanish Flat). I was low on petrol at that point and looking for a ‘gas station’ thinking Berryessa is major boating lake and surely there’s a petrol station somewhere. If in doubt, ask the locals and nearest on our route was in Pope Valley.

Chick


This meant altering the route slightly, backtracking a few miles then heading up 128, but didn’t mind much because I’d read that Pope Valley is mighty fine ride. Pope Valley and no petrol = ask again and sure enough 6 miles southwest is a Chevron station in Angwin. Up the hill, 6 hairpins, 12 sweepers, over the top, 2 hairpins and 8 more sweepers = Voila, petrol! 6 miles of sheer bliss (and 6 miles return) meant a delightful road find that almost brought a tear to ‘me one good eye, Har, Har.’

Passed by Clear Lake to Hwy 20 and 162 leading to Oroville (arrow straight stuff). Oroville is really where my journey begins and the 162 to Quincy.

As pleasant as riding California’s wine country back roads is, the 162 from Oroville to Quincy was not only the highlight of the day, this road is the finest sweeper road I’ve ever ridden. The Oberalp pass out of Andermatt has always been my favourite fast sweeper but the Oroville to Quincy nails what sweepers is all about. 70 miles of it and its smoooooth tarmac with no traffic. Google maps projects the 70 miles to take 2 hours but they don’t reckon on motorbikes and it take less than an hour. There are many 25 mile/hour corner signs and after the first 3 taken at 45 mph I realised that the suggested corner speed can easily be doubled and taken comfortably at 60 mph. Numerous 35 and 40 mph signs are all taken at 70 and 80. No cars, no trucks, no LEO on the day and after 10 minutes I was thinking 1098, 1098, 1098…but even on a supermoto it’s a fabulous, quick travel.

What an absolute superb road with the only 2 hazards – one being a well sign posted truck pull out where the road is dirty for a half mile and second, your right hand.

One of the problems with California riding is that the mountains don’t lend themselves to photos. It’s too forested for vistas and with a sweeper type road with turns being long and distant, the camera only captures the beginning of the turn rather a series. Too bad because all I can do is tell you about it. Besides, I was having too much fun to stop.

Quincy – Small town in timber country


Quality movies in Quincy!


Heat wave over (temporarily) and Quincy north on 89 was cool and wet. Lassen National Park was socked in solid and snowing over the pass = didn’t see a damn thing. Shame.

However, this was my first full Hwy 36 from Red Bluff to Fortuna. Wow, what a road. 36 has everything a biker could hope for except hairpins (although there are some too) and panoramic photos. Famous for its 140 miles of twisties, undulating over rolling golden foothills with blind rises and huge dips with sharp turns then climbs over the coastal range, a short section of one lane tight corners and empties thorough a curvy, shadowy redwood forest.

Spent the night in Ferndale (near Fortuna). The town is like an immaculate museum. Very, very good eats at the Ivanhoe Hotel.




Even the public toilets are quaint


Being spoiled for choice, I was almost, but not quite bitching about the KTM ride position on Monday and Tuesday. I’d just spent 8 weeks on a 1098S and actually stopped when taking off on the KTM for the first time in a year to look down so see where the damn foot pegs are. Also needed adjusting to such a severe upright position with the body and mind tuned for the 1098. After a week, the KTM still remains slightly unnatural (but getting better) whereas last year it was as perfect as a bike could be. Such is ‘memory’. The bike is also much less planted on fast sweepers when there’s a dip in the road that is probably down to the long suspension travel - even though the suspension correctly set up for me.

After two good days of riding Chick buggered off back to Los Gatos on Sunday while I continued north to Oregon. I thought my front tyre would last until Yakima, WA but isn’t to be. Gotta change it tomorrow in Medford, Oregon. I had all week to do so in LG.

Hwy 96 = a visual spectacular. The hwy follows the Klamath River giving one a feast of visuals. There are a couple of twisty ‘technical’ bits as some people like to call it, but mostly – ho hum lets go a steady 70mph and see all the sights. Stop for lunch anywhere along the way = grab a burger or french dip – not great, but it fills the hole.

Hwy 299 west of Willow Creek


Hwy 96 (Bigfoot Scenic Highway) Pretty much follows the Klamath River and this is what you get the whole way.




Some very nice sections on 96






Back road from Seiad Valley, CA to Medford, OR = this takes awhile and not sign posted!


Right, Medford = tomorrow a tyre and get on the road. Crater Lake coming up, 138 to Steamboat, north to Oakridge! Looking forward it!


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[Kneescrubber]

That's a lot of bikes in that garage; with a wicked looking bass hanging on the wall. Keep 'em coming!

[Mrs. DantesDame]

I've been in that garage! And on most of those roads, too    

Looking forward to following along - nice intro  

[sagerat]

Aufdeheidi Scenic Byway between Oakridge (OR 58) and McKenzie Bridge (OR 126) is worth the ride then go E a bit on OR 126 to its junction with US 20, go back W on US 20 over Tombstone Pass and come out at Sweet Home.  Ahhh.  

Just remember to stay on correct side of the road, laddie.  

[Mrs. DantesDame]

Aufdeheidi Scenic Byway between Oakridge (OR 58) and McKenzie Bridge (OR 126) is worth the ride then go E a bit on OR 126 to its junction with US 20, go back W on US 20 over Tombstone Pass and come out at Sweet Home.  Ahhh.  

Just remember to stay on correct side of the road, laddie.  

You missed the boat - he already posted about recommended routes through the area  

[birdrunner]

Notarian is on my most envied and hated list.

[notarian]

Medford is closed on Mondays so the tyre had to wait 2 days until Hood River, Oregon. Meantime, the weather gods decided Oregon has had enough Summer and decided to bypass Fall altogether and go straight into Winter for the day. NOOA weather forecast was 30-40% chance of rain on my route. Yeah, right. Do these guys actually get paid to forecast the weather? It rained and/or snowed all day the entire way to Oakridge. Crater Lake was 36F and snowing. Diamond Lake at 5400’ was also snowing. Good roads, crap ride and no photos (What, take a shot of the nearest tree?)

Highlight of the day was a hot shower at the Oakridge Best Western, then Chili Verde and a Modelo Negra. BTW, I think I got real lucky reaching Oakridge by way of Forest Roads off Steamboat/Brice Creek Road. No sign posts, no road markings (bicycles), nada = practically total guess work and enough memory review of google maps.

Tuesday was better, much better for half the day. Oakridge to Cougar Dam via Forest Rd 19 (Auferheidi Road) where I hooked up with Steve, an online biker that offered to show me some of the local roads leading in my route destination.

The Auferheidi begins and ends with covered bridges.




In between there’s 60 miles of scenic forest beauty and good road.








Oregon forest roads have this peculiar Soylent Green infesting the tarmac. Its moss and very, very slippery especially when wet. Front washed out twice and the rear once hugely. Instant butt with bike parting company with rider = off seat, get foot down (sliding foot) and a quick wrench up on the bars to right the bike.

McKenzie Pass was open and is a great ride with a tarmac resurface only 2 years old = brilliant ride to the summit and Wright Observatory. Lavaland from some eruption eons ago and the landscape is barren, craggy, sullen.






Steve


Good BBQ burger at some resort beside the river on 126 - The Sculptures were playing a daytime gig




Hwy 126 also a series of 3 falls created by lava flows and interestingly the type of lava decides how the falls will be. The first lava flow results in the spectacular ‘cliff’ type waterfall and third flow makes for the ‘cascading’ type.

The area is loaded with waterfalls. Here’s a type one as it were and the highest of the 3 on 126 at 120’ – Santiam Falls


Oregon is big on boating and fishing – Detroit. Note the rain in the background = that was nothing as it pissed down heavily all the way to Hood River beginning at FR 42.



But this is what you get north from Detroit


FR 42 – good surface, road has many offshoots but is easily followed all the way = one turning is ambiguous but there was a spray paint ‘42’ for bicyclists on the road. Follow the cyclists mmarkings.

Oh Boy, what a difference a round tyre makes. Effortless turn in, gentle push and holds the line without pushing back at me = sweet stuff.

Hood River to White Salmon to Glenwood. Went somewhat pear shaped after that as I couldn’t do the route near Mt. Adams because it meant riding through an Indian Reservation and outsiders are not allowed to do so. Very strange ruling.

High golden pastures – raining of course


Not to worry, a detour southeast to Goldendale put me on Hwy 97 to Yakima and then took the Canyon Hwy to Ellenburg.


Small canyons




The Canyon Hwy wasn’t quite what it is cracked up to be. Its, well, nice, but not special and hampered by a very low 45 mph speed limit that I can see no reason for.  One can easily ride this at 65 and see everything the canyon offers. Even so, it was good to get off 97 for a while.

97 eventually T-bones Hyw 2, which is a wide 2 lane, double yellow with ample passing stretches and is part of the Cascade Scenic Loop. Moving west, it sweeps through the picturesque Wenatchee Mountains hugging the Wenatchee River, rising over Steven’s Pass (4200’) then descends towards Puget Sound following the Skycomish River.





If you ever find yourself needing a motel on Hwy 2, try the Steven’s Pass Motel in Gold Bar. Best value on the trip so far at $50/night and they have a café/bar that serves up excellent Angus steaks and a switched on bartender. All the locals eat and drink here.

[9lives]

Keep the pictures and report coming great reading.   Thanks for posting this one up I'll be following it till the end.  

[Mrs. DantesDame]

Looks good so far!!! I'd apologize for the rain, but you are in the PNW, you know  

Odd about the Indian reservation - I'm not familiar with that  

[bubba zanetti]

Lookin good  

[Kneescrubber]

I rode to Redmond in 2000? for the BMWMOA national. The only time I've ridden in the PNW. I've been itching to go back. You're not helping.  

[notarian]

In Scotland if you don't ride in the rain, you don't ride. I didn't see Crater and Mt. Hood = guess I'll just have to come back again!

Bubba,

Battery died between Arlington and Darrington = a wasted day and will be a couple more days reaching Castlegar. Yamaha dealer in Arlington remained open late to check the battery and bike electrics over. All seems good now and on the road early in the morning. Should make Merrit, then a long ride into Castlegar. I know its the holiday weekend and you may have plans but I'll give you a bell anyway.

Cheers STN'ers - glad you like it so far and I'm really enjoying the travels.

Note

[FJR-UK]

Another top report. Cheers! Looking forward to the next installment

Oroville and Quincy are where my Dad was raised. Grandad was a butcher who drove a pickup with a dog in the bed and a 30.06 and fishing rod on the gun rack in the back window and a .45 automatic in the glove compartment. He would roll a Bull Durham crimp-cut cigarette one-handed while driving.

I remember the Feather River Highway being a favorite (Route 70).

[1KPerDay]

Great pics! Thanks for posting  

[JonS]

What an entertaining ride report! You are showing me some of the great riding I missed when I lived on the west coast. I can't wait for the next installment.

[notarian]

Washington State’s Hwy 20, the Cascade Highway is a fast motoring delight provided it isn’t a holiday weekend and chock o’ block with campers, campers towing trailers, cars towing trailers, mobile homes with their family of 30, mobile homes towing SUV’s, the others are towing boats… you get the idea. With less passing opportunities than Hwy 2, you make the most of overtaking every chance you get. Speed limit be damned, nail the throttle and don’t back off until you have passed everything in sight or as many creepers as possible.

White Horse Mountain = according to a local the snow is glacial and as such is the lowest elevation glacier in North America.


There is a dilemma whether to stop for a photo and have to re-pass 25 campers or forget the pics and get on with the journey. I chose to stop only occasionally but it was enough to become very familiar with the 4-8 wheeled travelers. Enough so that eventually as I re-re-re-passed them, they gave me a wave. It was a frustrating friendship.

By the time I got to Ross Lake, the caravan entourage had thinned considerably. Only the mega die hards were continuing east. However there were cops galore waiting for high speed unsuspecting bikers. I got very lucky – after a high speed series of turns I slowed for a photo op and sure enough where I decided a photo there were state troopers, highway patrol, sheriffs and rangers with radar guns ready at a scenic pull out.


Ross Lake


Hwy 20 is Washington’s answer to a mountain highway as to what California’s Hwy 1 Pacific Coast Highway is to a coastal highway. Very, very scenic, mostly 50 – 60 mph speed limits, 2 wide lanes, double yellow for what seems like 80% of 200 miles. Wonderful Western and Eastern Cascade mountain range perspective with the West being greener and more forested and waterfalls while the East changes to gold and less pine populated. After Oregon and most of western Washington, I really enjoyed the slightly more arid side of the mountain range.






As with all Washington roads I’ve experienced on this trip, Hwy 20 follows several rivers and streams. Dams aplenty and that means lakes.






There are two towns that are kind of strange in that they are ‘theme’ oriented. Levenworth on Hwy 2 has developed a modern Austrian Alps character that doesn’t quite work for me and Winthrop represents the perfect little Wild West town.


Winthrop is a good place to stop for lunch. Wooden ‘sidewalks’ and clapboard siding and there’s down home cooking at Three Fingered Jack’s and fairly good Mex at… – damn, name escapes me and I had lunch there. Never mind, it’s the only Mex in town and the town ain’t very big.

I continued East on 20 over Loop Loop Pass that was good but a bit of a disappointment in that its not very high at 4200’ and all sweepers. I had the road to myself and was pining for some hairpins Alp style. Not to be as I was up and over faster than a virgin boy’s first time.


An Alien on Hwy 20 – note the standard gaunt features and thin frame housing refrigerator size lungs


Got into yet another town beginning with “W” and made a left turn to Conconully. 18 miles later I passed through Shady Lake and its town = didn’t feel right. Turned back after a half mile and sure enough this was Conconully. Petrol, ice tea in the shade (85F), directions to Loomis and I was off down a 30 mile rock road past several lakes to join up with 97 at the obscure scattering of a place called Loomis. Great stuff! The boy’ohs and their V8 pick ups were traveling at 60 mph down a dirt/rock road, kicking up a dust storm tail wake that clouds the contact lenses.




Loomis to the Canadian Nighthawk customs is a shorter ride off 97 than expected and crossed over into Canada just before they closed at 5pm.


Could have made Merritt by 7pm but Keremoes is good enough. Elks Lodge Motel for the night, government boozer for a small Crown Royal and an excellent apricot beer ale as a back. Motel owner recommends a Thai 2 blocks down the main drag. That will do me.


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View Directions to Merritt, BC, Canada in a larger map

[bubba zanetti]

Bill ... sent you a PM with phone number ...

[notarian]

Actually it was a good thing that I didn’t press on to Merritt. The following day began with sunshine with scattered clouds, 65-75F. Perfect.

DD helped substantially with my routing and was on me like a cheap suit about taking the Keremeos / Merritt route. I may not agree with her enamourment with Loop Loop Pass but she was beautifully spot on about sticking to her guns about the Merritt route.

Keremeos is situated in a fertile valley and is now wine country in addition to fruit, veg and cattle. These days almost everywhere seems to be wine country but I was surprised to see it thriving this far north.


Like so many Northwestern roads the one (BC 3) to Princeton is a broad sweeper that follows a river - the Similkameen River. Not much traffic and dotted with pull out rest/camping areas that grant access to swimming holes. Brilliant.


At Princeton, one turns north for Merritt and this one mighty fine travel. After 10 minutes I lost count of the numerous lakes along the way. Keremeos to Merritt should have taken about 2 hours – with all the stops, it took me 3.




What I find wonderful about the country is the colours and landscapes. All the shades of green, gold, blue…the hues of red don’t show in the pics and that’s too bad.


And then there is the road


Lunch in Merritt at Coldwater Hotel in Merrit. Besides a decent burger the menu boasts a silly story about a train robber having hidden $350,000 behind the ceiling mirror in the room below the dome. He finally got caught after going through half. In 1900 that was a lot of dosh!


12 miles north of Merritt there is a ‘shortcut’ through Douglas Ranch (Douglas Lake Road) that empties in Westwold and cuts out most of the boring loop to Vernon. Its hard packed dirt with gravel and worth the ride. You can’t miss the turning point with the log cabin kirk.










Worth the ride until it turns to mud. Raining earlier that day or the night before, Douglas Ranch is 100 miles square and the largest ranch in Canada. The route is 60 miles long and I found it is separated into a North/South range. Dry that day in the south and wet in the north meant the north side was 1-3” of mud. Took almost 2 hours to cover the 30 miles – street tyres may just as well been slicks for all the traction I had.




Following another river into Vernon

[bubba zanetti]

Nice meeting and riding with you Bill. Shame the weather got so cool.  Enjoy the rest of your trip.  

Decidedly cool on my return home over Kootenay Pass where it was down to 4C and rain/sleet which hastened my semi-urgent pit stop at the rest stop on the top.  Too much pulled pork ??  

Ride safe and happy.

[birdrunner]

Another top report. Cheers! Looking forward to the next installment

Oroville and Quincy are where my Dad was raised. Grandad was a butcher who drove a pickup with a dog in the bed and a 30.06 and fishing rod on the gun rack in the back window and a .45 automatic in the glove compartment. He would roll a Bull Durham crimp-cut cigarette one-handed while driving.

I remember the Feather River Highway being a favorite (Route 70).

my daughter in law grew up in Oroville,  small world.