What's the best way to align top and bottom triple clamps?

[1000lbs]

So, I took a digger on the DR moving about 30mph in the sand on Christmas eve. After inspecting the bike I noticed the front wheel was aligned to the left by a few degrees.  Everything was moving free in the suspension and brakes so I rode it home 40+ miles.

The next day, I disassembled the front end, checked the individual parts out and all seems well. The best I can tell, the top clamp rotated to the left causing the misaligned front wheel.  

I losened the steering stem nut, reinstalled the fork tubes and tighted everything back down. After reassembling the rest of the front end and the wheel everythings looks fairly straight, but my overly analytical eyes are telling me that there may be a hint of bias with the front wheel angled to the right now.

Is there a better way to line up the triple clamps?

Thanks for any input.

[miles]

My best results have been to loosen the axle, lower triple, and steering stem.  Leave the top clamp tight.  Bounce the front end up and down a few times (with the back in a stand), then retighten everything.  If nothing is actually bent or broken it should all line up nicely.

[bomber]

I use the technique Miles outline, but generally leave the lower triple tree buttoned up tight, with everything else loosened . . .

I can't think of an advantage to either technique -- both should work.

[SLK50]

I use the technique Miles outline, but generally leave the lower triple tree buttoned up tight, with everything else loosened . . .

I can't think of an advantage to either technique -- both should work.

  I can. Your method shouldn't require re-torquing the steering bearings.

[miles]

  I can. Your method shouldn't require re-torquing the steering bearings.

Yeah, but that's part of the process if you loosen the steering nut in any case, so you're avoiding work that you are still going to do anyhow.

[R Doug]

After I loosen all pinch bolts, I spin the front wheel as hard as I can then grab a hand full of front brake (requires front wheel to be off the ground of course).  Sometimes I'll repeat the spinning and brake step.  That has always straightened up things for me.  

[bomber]

Yeah, but that's part of the process if you loosen the steering nut in any case, so you're avoiding work that you are still going to do anyhow.

Truth -- I'd be rechecking that anyway . . . .

on 2nd thought, loosening the top tree and keeping the bottom one tight MAY be easier, as the top tree may move independently more freely that the bottom one (no bearings et al), but I have a feeling it's all pretty much a moot point -- either way will get you aligned triple trees . . . .

[miles]

The main reason I've always kept the top tight rather than the bottom is just that on most bikes I've owned the bottom pinch bolts are easier to reach than the top bolts.  Nothing more to it than that.  Otherwise I see no reason to favor one set over the other.

[APEowner]

Here's the post drop/crash inspection/adjustment procedure I use.  

Remove front axle and wheel.

Remove front forks and upper triple tree.

Check bearings.  There should be a slight pre-load and absolutely no notches as you rotate the bottom tree.

Install the upper tree with the top nut snug but not tight.

Insert one of the forks and snug but don't tighten the clamps.

Insert the other fork and snug but don't tighten the clamps.  

Tighten the top nut on the triple tree and the clamps on one of the forks.

Slightly loosen the clamps on the other fork and make sure that it's a light sliding fit in the trees.  You should be able to slide fork up past where it belongs while you rotate it.  If you can't then something (probably the upper tube) is bent.

Tighten the loose fork and slightly loosen the other fork.

Repeat the check for a light sliding fit on the side that's now loose.

Slide the loose fork up and down until the axle slides in without any more than light pressure and tighten the clamps on that fork.

Remove the axle and install the front wheel and double check all the clamps and the top nut for proper torque.

[1000lbs]

Thanks for the input all.  

I followed the method miles and bomber outlined.  On the DR the top clamp is the easier access point so I worked from there. I might follow up with R Doug's wheel spinning method while I'm replacing the bars later this week.

A short test ride today says its good to go for my next "lesson" in soft sand manuevers   .

[mxvet57]

My best results have been to loosen the axle, lower triple, and steering stem. Leave the top clamp tight. Bounce the front end up and down a few times (with the back in a stand), then retighten everything.  If nothing is actually bent or broken it should all line up nicely.

I have used this method for the last 35 years. When i crashed the dirt bikes it was pretty much what i had to do. unless the bars were bent then it was time for a new set.

After I loosen all pinch bolts, I spin the front wheel as hard as I can then grab a hand full of front brake (requires front wheel to be off the ground of course).  Sometimes I'll repeat the spinning and brake step.  That has always straightened up things for me.  

This is done to center the front wheel before tightening the front axle bolt.

[R Doug]

This is done to center the front wheel before tightening the front axle bolt.

Got it.  So, this is a good last step after aligning the triples as described above?

[mxvet57]

Got it.  So, this is a good last step after aligning the triples as described above?

10-4  

[Bogie]

Loosen pinch bolts.
While facing bike with the front tire between your knees, adjust alignment
Tighten pinch bolts
Usually done on the trail