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Topic: VTEC Valve Inspection for VFR800 Worth It? You Bet!  (Read 2405 times)

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Rogue
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« on: January 22, 2011, 10:39:55 PM »

I took my ’07 VFR800 for its first 15k mile service.  This includes the VTEC valve inspection.  I also had them synchronize the “Starter Valves”.  Not sure why Honda calls them that, it’s the same as Syc’ing the throttle bodies of all other FI bikes.

Many owners of VTEC VFR’s advice that these bikes do not require valve inspections because someone knows someone who’s VTEC VFR did not require any valves adjusted at 15k miles and all were in spec.  I wish I could be that confident that mine is one of those VFR’s but how does one really know until you check?   Being such an anal retentive gear-head, I had to know for sure!  

I got the bike back and rode it all day.  All I can is wow!  Just wow!  What a difference in the way the bike runs!  I had no idea how out of spec the bike was until now.  According to the mechanic, the valves were mostly on the “tight side” and so they had to re-shim a few.  Prior to getting this work done, my VFR800 had a very annoying flat spot around 6k RPM, right before the VTEC would engage.  This made the VTEC transition more abrupt.  In addition, the flat spot fell around 85 mph, which mean maintaining this speed required constant throttle adjustment because the bike would slow down once the desired speed was reached, which then made me increase throttle input, then repeat—very annoying indeed!  Finally, the throttle response was snatchy when picking it up from a closed position.  This required a very gentle application of input to avoid making the bike lurch forward.  The flat spot at 6k RPM was the most annoying trait that made the bike not so much fun to ride around town.  

Well now the bike is simply transformed!  The annoying flat spot at 6k RPM feels like it has been exorcised.  Most noticeable is how the VTEC transitions so smoothly now especially in the first two gears.  Before, I would deliberately avoid transitioning VTEC in 1st gear, which means short shifting the bike.  Now, when it hits 6400 RPM and the VTEC kicks in it feels more very seamless!  Gone also is the constant need to make throttle corrections while cruising at 80-90 mph!  Plus, the engine is quieter, smoother, and feels lively.  

The best part is the shop that performed the service did not screw anything up.   All the fasteners were in place, all vent hoses accounted for, and they even supplied me with the mechanic’s notes on the valve inspection.   The only downer is the price of this service.  $700 for labor!  That plus the parts and the bill was just over $800!  Ouch!  That of course included the Starter Valve sync, coolant, oil, & hydraulic fluid flush and replacement.  The VTEC valve inspection cost $500 for labor.

Was it worth it?  Absolutely!   I plan to do it again at 30k miles!  LOL!  
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« on: January 22, 2011, 10:39:55 PM »

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« Reply #1 on: January 22, 2011, 10:56:16 PM »

Nice.

I hear ya.  You may think your bike is running ok, but that's because the performance falls off so gradually you don't really notice it.  Then you get a competent tune-up and it's yowza!  Bike runs like it's new!

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« Reply #2 on: January 22, 2011, 11:03:13 PM »

The irony is that my Dynojet Power Commander III that I bought to make the bike run better just arrived in the mail.  

I'm thinking.....now why did I buy the PC III again?   Bigsmile
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« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2011, 09:42:27 PM »

 You're describing a pretty significant difference in performance.  Any reason to believe it was out of spec new or is 15K too long ago?
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« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2011, 09:57:41 PM »

I have absolutely zero confidence that anyone in the area can perform this service on mine.  Sad
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« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2011, 12:01:59 PM »


 You're describing a pretty significant difference in performance.  Any reason to believe it was out of spec new or is 15K too long ago?


I know what you mean.

No, I don't think the performance deteriorated significantly from new.

I remember being annoyed by the surging at 80-85 mph when the bike had less than 5k miles on it.  

My belief is this:  Because many VTEC owners have stated how their bike's throttle response improved with the Starter Valve synchronization, I believe this needs to get done on all VTEC VFR's at the first oil change.  Other than that, I think following Honda's recommended service interval makes a difference.  One item at a time may not make a huge difference, but done as a group it makes a huge difference.

The bike's braking has improved and clutch responses simply from the fluid change.  The sponginess from the brakes is gone.  Brake feel is improved.  Clutch engagement feels more positive.  Idle is smoother.  Opening the throttle from closed in 2nd gear is much smoother.  VTEC engagement is almost seamless.  At part throttle it is seamless.  In taller gears it is seamless.  In first the VTEC hit feels more like secondary butterflies opening--smoothly.  The bike now runs the way it should in my opinion.

I guess it should since it has been 3 years.  I did replace the spark plugs and air filter at 10k miles.



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« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2011, 12:15:46 PM »


I have absolutely zero confidence that anyone in the area can perform this service on mine.  Sad


Probably not from a dealership.

I found one near me who is a Japanese bike tuner/service specialist.  The shop has been around for a long time and owned by the same guy.  His crew works on race bikes.  He builds race bikes.  He builds modified street bikes (not cruiser).  They make their living tuning up Japanese motorcycles.  Their shop is in a cheap, back lot, industrial area.  Their "showroom" is very grungy--looks like an old garage with lots of motorcycle parts hanging on the walls, and pictures of racers thinking the shop for a job well done.  The owner test rides every bike that is completed.  On any given Saturday there are sportbikers gathered around his shop.  

Not a lot of places like that.  The shop doesn't even advertise...it doesn't have to I guess.  Word of mouth travels faster.  
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« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2011, 12:15:46 PM »


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Joey Stalin
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« Reply #7 on: January 25, 2011, 12:42:05 PM »

Really, how hard is it to the do the valves for a shade tree mechanic?
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« Reply #8 on: January 25, 2011, 03:16:04 PM »

I think you need to remove the cams to replace shims.  X2 because it's a V4.
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« Reply #9 on: January 25, 2011, 06:31:22 PM »

Good info Rogue and now I need to find me another VFR.
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« Reply #10 on: February 17, 2011, 12:03:20 PM »

Larry, if you were here in SoCal I would have taken the bike to you.
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