Used DRZ400 - Yea or Nay?

[stew71]

Looking for a bike to play on the local fire trails and FS roads. Nothing hard-core. Just to explore and get muddy. How will a DRZ400 handle a 250lb 6' 3" guy?  

I've seen a few of them for sale in the area and thought I'd go kick some tires.

I've sat on a few KLR650's and they seem a bit large for just playing around on the weekends. Nice bike though. Wouldn't turn one down if it were offered up.

[thatguy]

Sure. Suspension will need some parts to deal with the bulk. Springs at the least but it'll work. Have fun.

[garry]

Like ThatGuy says, it'll be fine. If you start to push it a bit, you'll want heavier springs.

I've had two DRZs. They are fine, low maintenance bikes that will take a beating.

[DogBoy]

Great bikes. I love mine. Look for the later models that have the cartridge fork. And a lot of people really screw up the jetting chasing hp improvements so try to find one as close to stock as possible performance-wise. Shouldn't have any problem finding a good low mileage example where someone has already added handguards, skid plates and engine guards. Have fun!

[buls4evr]

 Yup skidplates and engine guards for sure as sidecases are frail magnesium. Stock they need springs if you weigh above 140 on the S model (get the S as it's street legal). I weigh 210 geared up and ride in rocks. Like the .52 front springs and 5.7 rear spring for faster going. I do like the 3X3 and JD jetting with stock exh. Change oil often. They need good tires and a 14T gear to do any OR work. Also look into the manual cam chain tensioner from TT for reliability issues. Have fun. They are great bikes with weight limitations. Very reliable STOCK.

[Lon]

If you get a DRZ400S (the one with a rear subframe and all lights, radiator fan, speedometer, chain guard, etc.), make sure you get 2002 or later.  2000-2001 of the S model had very basic suspensions.

The older DRZ400 (pre-"E" model) didn't have electric start; they were kickers.

Don't get a DRZ400 or DRZ400E for travel -- they don't have rear subframes.  For travel, the DRZ400S model is the right choice.  I took mine on two pretty decent "Adventure" trips, loaded to the gills, catching air.

If you get a DRZ400S model, you will probably want to change the gearing.  I did 15/47 (stock S is 15/44, E is 14/47).

I ran an MT21 front / Kenda K270 rear on my DRZ; seemed to do whatever I needed; YMMV.  Pirelli MT21s and Dunlop D606s are good dual-sport tires with emphasis on off-road riding.

[garry]

If you get a DRZ400S (the one with a rear subframe and all lights, radiator fan, speedometer, chain guard, etc.), make sure you get 2002 or later.  2000-2001 of the S model had very basic suspensions.

The older DRZ400 (pre-"E" model) didn't have electric start; they were kickers.

Don't get a DRZ400 or DRZ400E for travel -- they don't have rear subframes.  For travel, the DRZ400S model is the right choice.  I took mine on two pretty decent "Adventure" trips, loaded to the gills, catching air.

If you get a DRZ400S model, you will probably want to change the gearing.  I did 15/47 (stock S is 15/44, E is 14/47).

I ran an MT21 front / Kenda K270 rear on my DRZ; seemed to do whatever I needed; YMMV.  Pirelli MT21s and Dunlop D606s are good dual-sport tires with emphasis on off-road riding.

The MT21/D606 combo with 14/47 gearing is what I have planned for my DRZ this season (to make it much more dirt-worthy).

I like the IRC GP1/Kenda K270 combo for more 50/50 use (IRC on front). Nearly identical tread patterns between the IRC and Kenda, but I think the IRC front sticks better on the street than the K270 front I used to use.

[stew71]

Excellent info everyone. Thanks much!

[Kraz]

Keep in mind that the "E" models is much more performance oriented...  not street legal, but different cams and compression, plastic tank as opposed to metal, and a MUCH better carb.  I had a "K" - kick start only - and that was great, performance-wise, as it's a bit lighter, but "E" is pretty solid if you don't need to be street legal... though I did make mine street legal in the end.

I did very few mods, but the factory came chain tensioners have been known to take a shit, so many upgraded to manual types.  Also, the side cases were a little fragile, so if you fell on a rock or stump the brake lever would easily jam through the side case, so ThumperTalk has cheap pieces of metal that basically glue on over the case for extra protection.  Realistically, the bike will probably be fine w/o the mods, but they're worth something in my book if the bike has them already.  Not much, maybe $100-150 combined.

To get to the question, if you're still shopping, I'd say YEA - great bike, pretty much bulletproof... the high performance YZF's are what I'd stay away from, as the longevity doesnt' seem to be there the same way DR-Z's hang in there.

[swingset]

I'll be the dissenter and say for your uses a DR650 is a better bike in every way possible.

Here's my list of what's wrong with the DRZs (and yes, I've owned one):

1. Heavy and carries it all up front/top. It feels much bigger and heavier than it is, and coupled with the plush factory suspension it's rather a sloppy dog on the trails...kind of ploughs into turns. For my money, if it's going to feel like an XRL, might as well buy an XRL...or as I mentioned the DR650...which cruises better and requires less fuss to get it right.

2. The "S" model has a shitty carb, detuned cams, more weight than the "E", and no kick-starter. The "E" is a better bike in every way, except if you need a subframe. Most people take the "S" and start throwing money at it to get it close the performance of the "E" model...should just start there if you can plate dirt bikes in your state. Or, you can spend $496 for an FCR kit, $65 for a JD jetting set up, $70 in sprockets, $25 in a top end gasket kit, $300 in cams and you have an "S" bike that will maybe out perform a Stock E DRZ, except it's still too heavy.

3. It REALLY, REALLY needs a 6th gear. I never owned a bike that I got to the top gear and went "shit" because I knew I was at the top of the revs and nowhere to go. There are 5 speed bikes that this isn't the case with, btw, it's just the tranny/ratios of the DRZ leave you feeling like there's a gear missing.

4. It's got a lot of little pesky things that need addressing...moreso than most any other japanese DS/dirt bike I've ever owned. Some have been addressed on later models (cam chain tensioner), but other things like stator bolts that walk out, weak ass wiring, the "you better keep greasing the swingarm pivot or it will seize like a weld" area...you REALLY have to keep up on that. Case sides are weak as shit too, never seen anyone with a DRZ that doesn't throw a lot of money protecting it.

5. It's got a horrendous seat, maybe the worst ever. Even the aftermarket ones aren't great. It's thin and flat and just the right width to pressure-point the fuck out of you. I hated that bike for long distance. Tried four very expensive seats before deciding it was hopeless.

6. Weak stator, for a dual sport you can't power much of anything with it.

There is some good to the bike, don't get me wrong it's reliable and has great aftermarket, makes great torque down low, easy to super-moto....but unless I was chasing an "all arounder" (and even then the WR250R surpasses it in many ways) I'd go for the big DR.

[tgat]

Top of your revs and nowhere to go? The bike tops out at over 95, and will do over 110 with a sprocket change. If you are finding yourself without tons more revs on a unscreened DRZ, you either screwed up the engine or are batshit crazy.

The DRZ is a revvy bike. It doesn't need a 6th gear.

[swingset]

Top of your revs and nowhere to go? The bike tops out at over 95, and will do over 110 with a sprocket change. If you are finding yourself without tons more revs on a unscreened DRZ, you either screwed up the engine or are batshit crazy.

The DRZ is a revvy bike. It doesn't need a 6th gear.

I stick by my comments. First off, I know the motor revs, but that doesn't change my impressions of the vibes and gear set; it's a feeling thing. When you've been on a bike with a better gear set and ride a DRZ it just feels like it needs that extra gear...I'm far from the only person with this complaint. Even stock, which is still too high for offroad, it's buzzy and feels wound out when cruising. Geared down a bit, it's even worse. Yeah, I could have added some teeth to the front sprocket, but that defeats the whole "all arounder" thing the DRZ is supposed to be so good at.

Is it horrible, or a deal killer by itself? No, but there are bikes that don't suffer from this...and it's a way the DRZ could have been better designed or stand to be improved.

[Corbeau]

Tanks for The info, folks, as I'm the market for a used DRZ S. Found one locally, 2003, 20k km, nicely farkled out:

Rad guards
Skid plate
Acerbis 2-point hand guards
Case cavers on all accessories (crank and engine case, water pump, magneto, clutch)
Second set of off-road plastics (all black, as pictured)
Extra Clarke 3.9 gallon gas tank (as in picture with black plastics, ideal for road trips)
Rear rack with Pelican case (is in picture with black plastics)

(typos in the original FS ad)

Anything missing? Why would one have two sets of plastic? Didn't like the colour blue?

[DogBoy]

You can pick up a lightly used set of DRZ plastics pretty cheap making it really easy to change colors on these bikes. Mine came with an extra set of plastics and an extra stock tank. Not unusual to find them for sale with extra plastics.

[Dirk Smithsonian]

Anything missing? Why would one have two sets of plastic? Didn't like the colour blue?

I just got mine and took it on it's first good jaunt ~150 miles and into the trails. List looks good to me as far as things I am looking to eventually do. Top of my list, though, and missing from yours is a better seat. I'm thinking of a Seat Concepts recovering. The stock seat was pretty punishing after even a quick day trip. Second set of plastic is maybe because the bike takes a beating from trailside vines / shrubs and will definitely get dropped at some point?

I love mine.. I am still in awe that I can cruise at 70 and have as much fun in the woods on the same machine.  

[danketchpel]

I'll be the dissenter and say for your uses a DR650 is a better bike in every way possible.

Here's my list of what's wrong with the DRZs (and yes, I've owned one):

1. Heavy and carries it all up front/top. It feels much bigger and heavier than it is, and coupled with the plush factory suspension it's rather a sloppy dog on the trails...kind of ploughs into turns. For my money, if it's going to feel like an XRL, might as well buy an XRL...or as I mentioned the DR650...which cruises better and requires less fuss to get it right.

2. The "S" model has a shitty carb, detuned cams, more weight than the "E", and no kick-starter. The "E" is a better bike in every way, except if you need a subframe. Most people take the "S" and start throwing money at it to get it close the performance of the "E" model...should just start there if you can plate dirt bikes in your state. Or, you can spend $496 for an FCR kit, $65 for a JD jetting set up, $70 in sprockets, $25 in a top end gasket kit, $300 in cams and you have an "S" bike that will maybe out perform a Stock E DRZ, except it's still too heavy.

3. It REALLY, REALLY needs a 6th gear. I never owned a bike that I got to the top gear and went "shit" because I knew I was at the top of the revs and nowhere to go. There are 5 speed bikes that this isn't the case with, btw, it's just the tranny/ratios of the DRZ leave you feeling like there's a gear missing.

4. It's got a lot of little pesky things that need addressing...moreso than most any other japanese DS/dirt bike I've ever owned. Some have been addressed on later models (cam chain tensioner), but other things like stator bolts that walk out, weak ass wiring, the "you better keep greasing the swingarm pivot or it will seize like a weld" area...you REALLY have to keep up on that. Case sides are weak as shit too, never seen anyone with a DRZ that doesn't throw a lot of money protecting it.

5. It's got a horrendous seat, maybe the worst ever. Even the aftermarket ones aren't great. It's thin and flat and just the right width to pressure-point the fuck out of you. I hated that bike for long distance. Tried four very expensive seats before deciding it was hopeless.

6. Weak stator, for a dual sport you can't power much of anything with it.

There is some good to the bike, don't get me wrong it's reliable and has great aftermarket, makes great torque down low, easy to super-moto....but unless I was chasing an "all arounder" (and even then the WR250R surpasses it in many ways) I'd go for the big DR.

I've been riding my 2000 S model since I picked up with 600 miles on it in 2000. I have done all the mods to make it into E+ spec, manual cam chain tensioner, kick start kit, plus all the armor, suspension, big tank etc ....... and the bike has served me very well for 11 years, no complaints. Plus, they are very smooth.



I'd agree with all that he said.

ESPECIALLY It REALLY, REALLY needs a 6th gear. You need to run the 14t of you want a low enough 1st gear and the ratios are so closely spaced it easily runs out in 5th quickly. Ya it will spin very high but it's MISERABLE on the freeway.

And I didn't keep up with greasing my swing arm pivot bolt and now it's fricken seized in there so damn tight a 4lb sledge wouldn't budge it. My bad of course but he was right on the money there.

But, for what you mentioned you don't really need to do all the stuff listed. A later S model with the 3x3 airbox cutout, a rejet, a IMS tank, and a little armor will easily do what you want and probably put a smile on your face. The CV carb isn't all that bad as long as you never ride one with the FCR then you will hate it. The stock carb does get way better fuel mileage though......

And yes, they are bullet proof and carry enough oil to make long distance street rides very doable.

Maybe someday Suzuki will see fit to revamp this bike into what most people want, a modern fuel injected, 6spd version with 40lbs of weight lost. OK, I'd still put up with a little extra weight to keep it bullet proof and have a real subframe.

[DogBoy]

Nice bike.  

[Windblown]

I like my "S".  

There are times while off-road I'd prefer to have something lighter with better balance. The solution would be a dirt bike,  but then I'd have to trailer it the trailheads and not be able to legally ride the fire-roads.

There are times I wish it was more comfortable. The solution would be to get a KLR. But then I would have an even bigger pig to have wrestle off-road.

There are times when I wish it was more Hi-tech, though I'd much rather work on a wonky carb in the woods than a wonky injection system. (though I haven't had to touch my carb in 10,000 miles other than once to change the idle mix slightly.

Yep, the DR-Z has plenty of faults. But with 14/44 gearing you can do moderate off-road trails and still cruise at 70-75 MPH on the street.  With 14/47 you can still do 60-65 and have a bit more grunt to lift the front in technical stuff.

Other than some basic mods to protect it from rocks, and a re-jet/airbox mod I haven't done much to it.  You can spend a ton of money trying to turn a DR-Z into something it's not, or you can enjoy it for what it is. A stone axe low cost reliable mount.

[Meemuh]

Stew - what did you end up doing?  Did you make a buy?