Ahhh Gotta Stop!

[hobbner]

  Caught a late yellow light in town at a huge intersection, Didnt want to run it through red so I had to stomp on the brakes really good.  50 mph to 0 decelleration, at about 25 or so my rear tire locked and chirped, I felt it shimy side to side. I let pressure off the rear got things spinning and everything was good.  Except I was scared the rest of the day and lost a good portion of confidence...maybe something i need anyways as I am learning.

My question.
I ride mountain bikes all the time, Ive always been heavy on the back brakes and putting my weight way back when stopping to counter the transfer of weight...I like to go easy on the front brake on the MTB as it would let me steer easier and also I could slide the pedal bike to the side around whatever im slamming my brakes about.  My street bike weighs 300 pounds, my mountain bike 10 so physics are a bit different here.. I have found that this has given me two habits.
One whenever i go in to brake I am grabbing and holding the clutch at the same time is this bad?
Two... Ive got to convince myself that I can trust my front brake more...because I dont Im horribly afraid of locking it up or doing an endo or something to that effect. I know that in the manual for the state learners liscence it says that if the rear wheel is locked in an emergency stop that you should leave it locked until stopped...It also states that experinced riders 'can unlock the wheel' but must do it when the rear is straight...How straigt does it need to be?
Any pointers or advice on emergency braking would be great!

[ctfz1]

You should know 75 % or more braking is front wheel. That's where they put large dual disks and fancy calapers. Light short wheel base machines can do stoppies (rear wheel in the air), any bike can become tail light, easy rear lock. You need to practice emergency stops on the front brake till you're comfortable with the feel. Would be worth taking intro or ARC track course. I know I can chirp the front wheel and let off near lock up all way to stop, not world greatest rider, experience and practice.

[HipGnosis]

 Gotta PRACTICE!!

 Emergency stops are something you should practice regularly.  Each bike, tire, road surface is a little different.  Practice stopping straight and in a gentle turn.

 Nothing wrong with pulling the clutch.

 Watch some videos of squids doing 'stoppies' to get some appreciation of the capabilities of modern brakes and tires.

 I'm pretty sure Mtn bikers lean back when braking so they don't go over the handlebars.  The rider is the center of mass.  Totally different on a M/C.  Weight to the front is a good thing as it helps the tires friction on the road.  Even if it lets the rear tire chirp or skid.

 I like to skid my rear tire when scooting around city intersections when my rear tire is nearing the end of it's mileage.  Making it fun takes all the scare or worry out of it.


 

[MK96xj]

What you did by letting off and reappling was correct. If you stay on a locked up rear as suggested in the manual your referred too, the rear can get real squirlly. If it lock let off and reapply. this is esentially ABS' theory. Trust the front brake. It will take ALOT of it before the rear comes off the ground.

[Stray Cat]

What you did by letting off and reappling was correct. If you stay on a locked up rear as suggested in the manual your referred too, the rear can get real squirlly. If it lock let off and reapply. this is esentially ABS' theory. Trust the front brake. It will take ALOT of it before the rear comes off the ground.

I can't disagree more! Unlocking the rear is bad, bad  bad. That is the quickest way to a high side! If you do get the bike even a little sideways and let off the rear, the action of the bike straighting up is going to toss you off faster then you can say WTF?
Take a MSF course, read any street survival riding book and they will say the same thing. If you lock the rear, keep it locked!
ABS works this way, but it's so fast (dozens or cycles a second) that there is little chance of total lockup and getting the bike sideways.
To the OP. If you haven't yet taken the MSF course, I highly suggest that you do this!

[Windblown]

1) Learn to trust your front brake!   Rear brakes are for dirt, front brakes are for asphalt.  Some bikes wilh painfully weak front brakes will stop a little quicker with application of both. (My Concours comes to mind) But on the other hand I haven't ever used the rear brake on the R6 unless I'm in the grass and it gets maximum threshold braking practice repeatedly at every trackday I can afford to attend.

2) My take on rear brake lock-up (Besides not using it if at all possible) If you lock up the rear brake and the bike steps out bad then let the bike turn into the slide till things get straightened up before letting the rear brake unlock.  If the bikes rear doesn't come back around and line up with your direction of travel and you therefore have to keep the rear locked you may lowside, but that beats the heck out of a bone snapping high-side.

[hobbner]

yeah my gut told me something was wrong with the idaho motorcycle manual. Its interesting how when you get into a tight situation and your in a panic how instinct takes over and you disregard much of what you have ever read and do what 'feels right'..something that im both happy about...and scared about.
What about downshifting and engine braking yes/no?
I would love to do some advanced courses but there simply isnt much around here. we do have the MSF and I plan to take it, but I dont want to drop my bike! And track days....what track? Where? This is Idaho land of miles and miles of farmroads but no track for about 4 hours.

[Stray Cat]

Hobbner, the manual is correct. Leave it locked. You would surprised just how little it takes to high side you right off the bike.
Engine braking is not effective at all. All it's going to do is cause the rear to lock up. Getting off the throttle in mid corner is bad for the same reason. Roll on the throttle all the way through the corner. Jumping off the thottle mid corner is the second fastest way to a high side.
Please... take a MSF course! They have been teaching this stuff for decades and really do know what they are doing. There are many reasons (physical) as to why you do things on a motorcycle that may seem counter intuitive, but they will save your butt. Learn the correct proceedures and practice them as if your life depends on it. Because it does!

[Windblown]

What about downshifting and engine braking yes/no?

I use engine braking at times on the street but not for panic stops. For panic stops my procedure is as follows:

Pull in clutch and pull front brake to get the weight shifted to the front tire.
Squeeze the hell out of the front brake while tapping down thru the gears (clutch remains pulled in).
Look for an escape path. If one presents itself then let off brake, let off clutch (smoothly) and power into the clear zone.

The reason you want to get into the habit of downshifting thru the gears as you are slowing is so that the bike is ready to accelerate back out immediatly.  This can be important if there is someone behind you that wasn't paying attention either. Not much fun to manage to avoid hitting something just to have the next guy back give you an A$$packing.  

[MK96xj]

S Cat,

staying on the break is situation dependant. It worked for hobbner in his situation obviously with no high side. If the skid was more extreme and the ass end starts to come around i would agree with holding on the break as you are already commited. A manual alone is not going to teach you to ride and is not bible. Hobbner did good and acted accordingly. Which is why he is writing to tell about it and not a different subject post.

[Stray Cat]

S Cat,

staying on the break is situation dependant. It worked for hobbner in his situation obviously with no high side. If the skid was more extreme and the ass end starts to come around i would agree with holding on the break as you are already commited. A manual alone is not going to teach you to ride and is not bible. Hobbner did good and acted accordingly. Which is why he is writing to tell about it and not a different subject post.

So how do you explain to a new rider this concept of situational dependancy and how much can you hang it out and still recover? Of course there is no one answer for all situations and riders skills and bikes. So, the only answer that really applies to all situtations is to leave it locked.
Have you ever taken an MSF course? I would guess not from your response. They rider coaches are very adament about this.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to berate anyone for offering advise. Only point out that through years and years of experianced riding and education the rider coaches have all come to the same conclusion. To avoid making a bad situation worse, leave it locked.
Yep, Hobbner didn't suffer any adverse effects in this situation, but time and time again riders that get into the same situation don't fair as well. Next time he might not be so lucky. Obviously not locking the rear is the best case scenerio, but once that has happened leaving the rear locked poses virtually zero additional hazard, while unlocking usually results in a high side especially at higher speeds.

[Windblown]

I highly recomend MSF basic and advanced.  MSF didn't exist when I started riding but I took the ERC course year before last and may take it again at some point.  What is taught is good advice and should be mastered without having to think about it. But once those techniques are mastered I firmly believe that technique can, and should, be tweaked.

MSF teaches riders to use the rear brake and it's good to learn how to use it without locking it up.  MSF teaches to never unlock a rear brake once it locks. MSF teaches to always use 4 fingers on the front brake. That's good general advice to live by till you know when more advanced techniques might work better, or when it might not apply as well to your particular bike.

 

[photomd]

Why are you afraid of your front brake: motorcycle or moutain bike.

I recently bought a moutain bike for two reason: to rehab my knee (torn ligment from riding the CR) and to ride with my son. On asphalt I can lock the front tire and not do a stoppie if I put my butt behind the seat. To do a stoppie I just lean forward (butt in front of the seat) and hit the front brakes. The rear end comes right up. I sorta get a kick outta doing these. On good grass it's pretty similar on the dirt bike: slide as far forward as possible, hit the front brakes to compress the front and squeeze a little more to get the rear end up.

My point is you need to learn to use the front brake in conditions with varying traction. Pay attention to the front. As you approach lock up, you'll feel the front get vague and the compressed suspension snap back. I'm amazed at how many people that ride the local MX tracks never touch the front brake. With good tires, street or dirt, your front brake is the best one to stop you: depending on wheelbase, it's 60% or more of your stopping power.

Also learn to use the rear...that last 40% is pretty important. As for what you do with a locked rear wheel, it depends on your experience and comfort level. If it's still pretty much in line, I'll let off the brakes and re-apply. However I do this intentionally all the time on the CR, so I'm pretty comfortable with what I can get a way with. As with most things it just takes practice.

I think a moutain bike is a great tool to play with brakes. It's light, speed is much less and it behaves pretty similar. I did switch my cables so my front brake is on my right hand and did find it easier to modulate. You also ride it in lots of different environments with varying traction...a good way to learn what the front brake can do.  

[hobbner]

Ive got to say that reading through the forums has been one of the best things for me.  1. I read about others wipeouts and see the pictures, that keeps me from getting a little over zealous on the throttle. I try to read a scary story before every ride to remind myself its for reals out there  2.  Its nice to hear different perspectives on techniques on what works what doesn't. Ill keep in mind the advice about 'if' i lock the brakes... keep them locked up at the highspeeds.  

As for the front brakes I am working on getting more confident in them.  I have had some really bad endos in the past on a mountain bike with the front brake on trails and have always rode the front 40 percent the back 60.  Not a good combination for the bikes.  

So What about Brake Balance, Lets say im coming to a full stop and I have my brakes at 50-50 front and back (obviously not an ideal combination from our discussion so just...Hypothetically speaking), If I 'increase' pressure on the front brake could i risk locking up the back brake as the tire now has less weight and pressure trying to push it forward? Or vicea versa, If I am afraid of locking the front would letting some pressure off the back keep the front spinning as more 'stopping job' is pushed forward.  and allow me stop faster? Obviously the best situation in either case would be to modulate the wheel causing you concern, but Im curious.

Im starting to think I need to find myself a cheap old 50 cc something dirt bike like a honda trail and start practicing some techniques I would rather not do on my beeaaauuuutiful bike :-)

I know im quite the Noob, please feel free to throw anything of your choice at me!

[bsd43]

I think you really need to get in your head that even though there are common elements, a motorcycle does NOT act like a bicycle. You are 90% of the weight in a top-heavy bicyclist+bicycle combination, while more like 25% of the weight in a motorcyclist+GS500 combo. Plus there is a nice suspension system in the forks with fluid dampening to absorb a lot of the forces before you would go flying.

You just gotta practice practice practice, starting with front brake ONLY, in a parking lot and starting at maybe 25mph, to see that you CAN stop pretty damn quickly without endo-ing in a motorcycling, and build your confidence from there. The risk of high-siding is too great to not learn that you must trust your front brakes.

Please take the MSF class if you can, and also read David Hough's original Proficient Motorcycling book.

[Stray Cat]

There really isn't any danger of doing an endo, especially on GS 500. Which BTW is an excellent choice for a first bike  
Now to make your second excellent choice and get you're butt into a MSF course. Not to sound like a broken record, but it will be the best investment in your riding craft that you will ever make. They will teach you the proper technique and you can build on that in everyday practice. You ride course provided bikes in the 100 to 250cc class and they will really critique you and give you solid skills to build on. Learn right to begain with so you don't have bad habits to overcome down the road.

To answer your questions, yes as you increase front braking you will transfer weight up front and in turn increase the risk of locking the the rear. This is why you need to practice some quick stops. Once again, the MSF course will provide you with lot's of great techniques to practice and keep your skills sharp.

Emergency braking and proper non emergency braking are just two of the dozens of things you will learn to improve your riding. Many of these things will keep you out of situations that may required emergency braking. An ounce of prevention, is worth a pound of cure  

[hobbner]

Yes, promise I will be taking the MSF class as soon as I can here in Idaho (sometime in May) in the mean time though thanks for everyones help in making sure I dont have TOO many bad habits by the time I get there! This GS is my second bike my first was an old 76 honda CB400 It wasnt in the best of shape throttle would get stuck, old drum brakes on the back, tires would wobble..on and on...sure was pretty though! Anyways I never did much more than commute because I simply didnt trust it. I have something I trust for some long rides and higherspeeds, but ive learned there is a lot more physics coming into play above forty miles an hour!

[photomd]

Obviously bsd and I disagree on the mountain bike thing...here's my take. My mountain bike with a very basic front suspension acts very similar to my motorcycles, but it's harder to modulate the brake. The rim brakes are much more on/off than a disc. Also when things happen on the mountain bike, they happen pretty quickly...faster than the dirt bike at relative speeds. However, go 45mph into a berm on the dirtbike and things occur pretty quickly.   I don't do stoppies/wheelie's on my street bikes.

As has been stated, going to parking lot and practicing with just the back brake starting with a little braking and increasing to lock up, then doing the same exercise with the front will teach you a lot about what brake does what. How far you push the front brake is up to you.

As I've said before, you can lock the front and not go down. I do this a lot on my dirtbike. On a mountain bike, I'll peddle up to about 5-7 mph on loose sand/dirt, even my weight on the peddles and lock the front. If you have a suspension, you'll feel it extend as the front looses traction and front gets a vague/light feeling. The  trick is to not put any input into the bars and to steer/balance with your feet. I do the same thing on the dirtbike. On the mountain bike I can only do it for several feet because the vehicle is so light and I'm so high and I can't peddle and do this. But on the CR, 50 feet is pretty easy on level ground with a locked front end. I do think you'll learn a lot by doing this on a mountain bike.

As for using your front brake, bike or motorcycle, it depends. If I'm going down a steep descent on my bicycle with good grass/traction, I might feather the front, but I'll probably leave it alone depending the speed. If I'm on my motorcycle in the wet (the one without ABS), I'll feather the front and use more rear in relation to my usual technique. Again, nothing replaces practice. The mountain bike will give you a feel for what's going on, but practicing on the GS will get you the best results.

Also, IMHO, a dirt bike sliding around is a great way to learn how it feels. And don't worry about being a noob...we all started there. Have fun and be safe.  

[cbsnbiker]

Yes, promise I will be taking the MSF class as soon as I can here in Idaho (sometime in May) in the mean time though thanks for everyones help in making sure I dont have TOO many bad habits by the time I get there! This GS is my second bike my first was an old 76 honda CB400 It wasnt in the best of shape throttle would get stuck, old drum brakes on the back, tires would wobble..on and on...sure was pretty though! Anyways I never did much more than commute because I simply didnt trust it. I have something I trust for some long rides and higherspeeds, but ive learned there is a lot more physics coming into play above forty miles an hour!

The MSF course (or equvalent--Idaho may use another curriculum) will help you out tremendously. I can recommend that you use more front brake and less rear brake, but learning this stuff in a controlled environment with a coach who can give you constructive input as it happens will help you tremendously.

As for what to do about a locked rear brake, the best is not to lock it in the first place.   Overuse of the rear brake is a common error amongst novices and untrained riders.

But you lock the rear brake while you're riding on pavement, the best course of action, especially for novices, is to keep it locked and brake to a stop. If you unlock it at the wrong moment--basically, if the rear wheel isn't aligned with the front wheel--that can induce a high side crash. That's ugly and painful.

Others have observed that it is possible to unlock a locked rear brake if done properly. They're right. However, those three last words are critical: "if done properly." If done improperly, you can highside. Ouch. So, if in doubt, keep a rear wheel locked and bring the bike to a stop.

(Different rules apply for dirt riding, due to lower traction.)

I bet you'll feel much happier and more confident after taking the MSF (or equivalent) course. I hope it's soon!

[hobbes]

Forget the rear brake completely.

Seriously.

Yes I said it. FORGET THE REAR BRAKE COMPLETELY.

From this thread and the others you have started you are young, inexperience, but very willing to learn. I was the same just a few years ago, and I'm still learning a lot every day. Please forget about the rear brake for the time being. Even now, I use the rear brake only sparingly.

My reasoning is this: You're trying to learn the proper trust in the front brake and how the bike handles with the combination of both the front and the rear. You're also trying to learn how to ride a motorcycle with the most basic of competent skills. The front brake is INSTRUMENTALLY important in panic stops and emergency situations, while the rear brake is not so much. Learn how to ride the bike using the front brake only while you learn simply how to ride well at the same time. In a few months or a year you can always bring in the rear brake and learn how to control it, but only after you have mastered being skillfull controlling the motorcycle, and braking with the front.

You're asking yourself to handle too much right now, when maybe prioritizing things might be your best bet. Also, MSF is your friend. TAKE IT!!! It's never too early.

[KokomoSam]

When I first started riding a long time ago, I was scared to use the front brakes.  I always relied on the rear.  This nearly got me into trouble lots of times.   As a way to get used to the workings and feel of the front brake, try riding around town at a moderate pace and force yourself to use only the front brake.  Try this for a week of commuting.  Once you are comfortable with and trust the front brake you can start thinking about trying out the rear.    However, as stated above, the front does most of the work anyway.   and as you start to stop the weight of the bike naturally transfers to the front.  This front transfer of weight makes the back brake less effective anyway.  Go take a MSF or what ever basic riding class they teach there.  It is worth the time.

Good Luck!

[MK96xj]

The MSF course (or equvalent--Idaho may use another curriculum) will help you out tremendously. I can recommend that you use more front brake and less rear brake, but learning this stuff in a controlled environment with a coach who can give you constructive input as it happens will help you tremendously.

As for what to do about a locked rear brake, the best is not to lock it in the first place.   Overuse of the rear brake is a common error amongst novices and untrained riders.

But you lock the rear brake while you're riding on pavement, the best course of action, especially for novices, is to keep it locked and brake to a stop. If you unlock it at the wrong moment--basically, if the rear wheel isn't aligned with the front wheel--that can induce a high side crash. That's ugly and painful.

Others have observed that it is possible to unlock a locked rear brake if done properly. They're right. However, those three last words are critical: "if done properly." If done improperly, you can highside. Ouch. So, if in doubt, keep a rear wheel locked and bring the bike to a stop.

(Different rules apply for dirt riding, due to lower traction.)

I bet you'll feel much happier and more confident after taking the MSF (or equivalent) course. I hope it's soon!

Thank you. You articulated what i was trying to say.

Although I have not ever taken a MSF course I do have 30 years of diverse riding experience BUT do recommend any new and experienced riders to take a MSF course. One thing I have learned is that a book or course will only teach you so much and most are gaged to be a fit for all or to provide a basis. Real life situations do not always follow this and only real experience and instincts will get you though to the next ride.

[ZED]

Your technique in recovering the skid was correct.  Good job!

Something to practice that will help your motorcycling and your mountainbiking, is to take off the back brakes of your mountain bike.  The do so little and with proper braking technique you don't need them except in the most EXTREME scary, slippery descents.  Spend enough time at that and going for you back brake will not be a habit.  I used to race mountain bikes.  Most people use their back brake way too much.

[county]

You shoulda gone on thru the lite.

And, to overcome a fear of the front brake, first, you oughta be afraid of riding a bike with minimal input to 75-80% of your braking and second, quit using the rear brake at all til you are comfortable with the front.  

[Fun Dog]

When I took the MSF course, they said (over and over):

1.  If the rear wheel locks, keep it locked until you stop.
2.  If the front wheel locks, release it as soon as possible.

If you're doing an emergency stop, you'll want to re-apply the front brake until you stop.  If it locks again, you release it again in a sort of manual ABS repetition mode.  When your front wheel locks, you are more prone to lose control of the bike.  To regain control, you have to unlock it.

There are people on this forum who can unlock a rear wheel while moving and not high-side by knowing from years of experience and "feel" how the bike will respond and they know how to adjust for that.  These same people can probably lock up the front wheel and keep it locked until they stop with no problem too.

However, for novices like you and me, I'd say the best thing to have in your mind right now is to stay on the fuckin' rear brake when it locks until you stop.  Period.  You got away with it this time, but that's because the rear didn't begin to fishtail before you let off the rear brake.

I saw John Hopkins pull a high-side in a Moto GP race last year, and I swear it was one of the coolest acrobatic maneuvers I have ever seen---even better than the high-wire act at the circus.  The back tire broke loose in a corner and when the tire caught traction on the asphalt it threw him a good 4 feet into the air---and here's the cool part---in a SOMERSAULT.  I had taped the race, so I rewound that scene about 30 times.  I'd pause it when he'd reach the middle of his flip and when he impacted the ground.  Great fun.  He was not hurt, but it gives you an idea of the power in the rear shock that can launch you if it's compressed after the rear wheel regains traction.

[cbsnbiker]

Several people in this thread advocate abandoning the use of the rear brake altogether. While I agree with the spirit of this recommendation--to deemphasize the use of the rear brake and to emphasize the use of the front brake--I disagree with a literal interpretation of this advice.

The rear brake is a useful tool. Even though most braking power comes from the front brake, some still comes from the rear. Used properly, in conjunction with the front brake, the rear brake helps to shorten braking distance.

Racetrack and other off-street riding situations may utilize different valid riding techniques. But for the street, the judicious use of both brakes is the wisest course of action for most situations with most bikes.

Hobbner, I don't think anyone answered this question:

One whenever i go in to brake I am grabbing and holding the clutch at the same time is this bad?

Squeezing the clutch while braking is good riding technique. It allows you to downshift as you bring yourself to a stop, so you can be in first gear ready to accelerate again.

Note that I used the word "squeeze." It's best to expunge the word and concept of "grab" from your riding. Smoothness will pay off in big dividends. "Grabbing" the clutch isn't evil, but grabbing the brakes is bad indeed, for it can induce a locked wheel and thus a crash. Work on smooth operation of the brakes and the clutch. Once you've learned how to use your controls properly, you'll find that you can stop a motorcycle in a remarkably short distance without "grabbing" any control.

Keep up the good questions, and enjoy that MSF course!

[Husky23]

Forget the rear brake completely.

Seriously.

Yes I said it. FORGET THE REAR BRAKE COMPLETELY.

From this thread and the others you have started you are young, inexperience, but very willing to learn. I was the same just a few years ago, and I'm still learning a lot every day. Please forget about the rear brake for the time being. Even now, I use the rear brake only sparingly.

My reasoning is this: You're trying to learn the proper trust in the front brake and how the bike handles with the combination of both the front and the rear. You're also trying to learn how to ride a motorcycle with the most basic of competent skills. The front brake is INSTRUMENTALLY important in panic stops and emergency situations, while the rear brake is not so much. Learn how to ride the bike using the front brake only while you learn simply how to ride well at the same time. In a few months or a year you can always bring in the rear brake and learn how to control it, but only after you have mastered being skillfull controlling the motorcycle, and braking with the front.

You're asking yourself to handle too much right now, when maybe prioritizing things might be your best bet. Also, MSF is your friend. TAKE IT!!! It's never too early.

 

That's bout what I'd say too DD.  Oh, I utilize the rear brake...at low speeds, in combination with the front...maybe to finish the stop 10-15 mph to 0.  I also use the rear brake to hold the bike in place on uphills as I shift into first and initally accelerate from a stop.

But in the case described here (emergency stop from 50mph); I do virtually 100% front brake while pushing my weight to the rear as I test the rear brake lightly.

You know your getting 100% braking outta the front when you push your ass back in the saddle and feel the rear tire contact pavement again.

[Corwin]

I am also pretty new at this, so feel free to take my advice with a large grain of salt.  I noted a few posts about not using rear brake at all until comfortable with the front.  I have noted that when I use the front only, the bike tends to squat down on the front suspension a lot more than when using both.  I think using both keeps the bike more balanced.  Since the rear will also provide some stopping power (unless you are essentially pulling a stoppie), stopping distance should be shorter when using both.  If you are in a true emergency, every inch of stopping distance may count.  
I also ride in wet weather quite a bit, and have taken some group rides with our BRC instructors in the rain.  We were always told to use the rear brake more in slippery conditions.  If you never use the rear normally, you may not use it in conditions where you may need to (low traction situations, for example).  
In my opinion, using both is best.  
If you read books like D. Hough's "Proficient Motorcycling", L. Parks' "Total Control", or K. Code's "Twist of the Wrist I and II", they will generally advise use of both brakes and back it up with some more eloquent statements than I can manage.  
BTW, we were also taught to leave the rear brake locked up, not to release it.  I figure until I have some track days and a lot more experience I will probably try to do that if needed.  

[KokomoSam]

I am also pretty new at this, so feel free to take my advice with a large grain of salt.  I noted a few posts about not using rear brake at all until comfortable with the front.  I have noted that when I use the front only, the bike tends to squat down on the front suspension a lot more than when using both.  I think using both keeps the bike more balanced.  Since the rear will also provide some stopping power (unless you are essentially pulling a stoppie), stopping distance should be shorter when using both.  If you are in a true emergency, every inch of stopping distance may count.  
I also ride in wet weather quite a bit, and have taken some group rides with our BRC instructors in the rain.  We were always told to use the rear brake more in slippery conditions.  If you never use the rear normally, you may not use it in conditions where you may need to (low traction situations, for example).  
In my opinion, using both is best.  
If you read books like D. Hough's "Proficient Motorcycling", L. Parks' "Total Control", or K. Code's "Twist of the Wrist I and II", they will generally advise use of both brakes and back it up with some more eloquent statements than I can manage.  
BTW, we were also taught to leave the rear brake locked up, not to release it.  I figure until I have some track days and a lot more experience I will probably try to do that if needed.  

I understand exactly what you are saying and I have read the same books.  However, the point I was trying to make earlier and the same point that I think many are trying to make is that as a newbie (me included) it is common to over use the rear break and be scared of really braking with the front brake.     When I was first riding, I never really used the front brake, until I stopped using the rear brake for a little bit to force myself to get a better feel of the front brake.   Of course, as a relativly newbie myself you can feel free to take this with a grain of salt, but  I would still recommend from my experience that it is ok to try riding for awhile with out the rear brake.  It will teach you to trust and use the front brake.

Good Luck.  Stay Safe.

[Husky23]

However, the point I was trying to make earlier and the same point that I think many are trying to make is that as a newbie it is common to over use the rear break and be scared of really braking with the front brake.  

Good Luck.  Stay Safe.

Pointoid.  

[Husky23]

I have noted that when I use the front only, the bike tends to squat down on the front suspension a lot more than when using both.

Same on mine, even clicking up fornt end pre-load a fair amount from stock it dives more than I like under hard front braking (new fork springs for me soon).  But, also, under those decelleration forces, try making a conscience effort to move some of your body weight to the rear.

[rabiddeity]

Keep in mind that the whole "ratio" method of brake application is pretty flawed.  For instance, if someone tells you "on my bike, I always use 80% front and 20% rear brake" I think it's a pretty bad way of thinking of things.  One of the things I discovered when practicing in a parking lot last year with someone watching me was that I was using too much rear brake when stopping from higher speeds and too little rear brake when stopping from lower speeds.  In my case, the "fixed ratio" method was NOT a good way to stop cleanly.

The rear brake is great for doing parking lot maneuvers at low speed.  Why?  Because you can easily and directly control the speed of the driving wheel.  If you use your front brake at low speed, you'll upset the suspension a lot and make precise maneuvers harder.  On the flip side, at high speed your front brake should be doing most (or all) of the work, because if you're really braking at maximum then your rear tire will have little or no weight, and thus little or no traction.  If you're using any rear brake in that situation, the rear will lock.

But hey, this is an internet forum.  Find an empty parking lot and a buddy, and go practice emergency braking.  Your buddy should be able to see clearly if your wheels stop moving while your bike still is.  Or take the MSF course as others have recommended, where you'll get to practice this stuff with trained pros watching you.

[dgunther]

And, to overcome a fear of the front brake, first, you oughta be afraid of riding a bike with minimal input to 75-80% of your braking and second, quit using the rear brake at all til you are comfortable with the front.  

+1
It's too common for newer riders to reacting to panic situations like they are used to reacting in a car - by stomping the brake.

Get used to the front brake only - then slowly reintroduce the rear brake in deliberate, measured, intervals.  

Will you require more room to stop than if you had perfect use of both brakes?  Yes, of course - make sure and allow yourself a little more breathing room.  But, at least you won't lock that rear up and risk a high side if you panic.

[Capirex]

I vote front brake, clutch out, no rear brake.  

[JohnnyReb]

Ok here is a video that really shows what can happen when trying to make a panic stop using only the rear brake.  A dash of water is thrown in to make things even more interesting.  The wheelie at the first is just to get the audiences attention.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=G7wH7WDUvF0

[jschmidt]

The information about riding out a skid is correct. Releasing does cause highsides. Just because it didn't shouldn't lead you to believe that it won't.

Here's something else you won't hear. To successfully ride, you must overcome your natural inclination to recoil from violence. You released the back brake because of this (genetic, I think) response. Like target fixation, you must overcome this behavior.

Use both brakes and learn to use both brakes. None of the rationales for not using both holds up to scrutiny.

Lastly, braking properly is the one skill you can't perfect simply by riding. You must practice. Pick an empty lot and practice stopping from the same point. After a few warmups make your goal to stop one foot shorter each time. You'll surprise yourself and eventually, after a few sessions, you'll learn how to deal with both a front and rear tire skid.

As others have said, take at least the Basic Rider Course. It's the basis for all of your future learning.

[mist]

 but it gives you an idea of the power in the rear shock that can launch you if it's compressed after the rear wheel regains traction.

  like a pogo stick  

[GooseMan]

I'm no experience rider by any means..as I just finished my "MSF" course this past weekend (in Quebec, we MUST take a mandatory 18 hour course, pretty similar to the MSF course).

One of the most important things we learned was how to do an emergency stop in a straight line AND in a curve. Even with the crappy bikes we were using (drum brakes and all!), I was able to stop, on damp, dirty asphalt, mind you, from about 30 km/h in about 10' or less (well, it was pretty damn short!). We were told to use both brakes, mostly skidding the rear tire (again, dirty, wet parking lot), but the front brakes are the important ones. I'm pretty surprised at the stopping power of motorcycles..even those with drum brakes!

Also...when in a curve, STAND the bike up straight before doing a panic stop. I've dropped the bike twice braking in a curve because I was leaned over.

And read Proficient Motorcycling! I'm reading it now....its great!  

[cbsnbiker]

The information about riding out a skid is correct. Releasing does cause highsides. Just because it didn't shouldn't lead you to believe that it won't.

Here's something else you won't hear. To successfully ride, you must overcome your natural inclination to recoil from violence. You released the back brake because of this (genetic, I think) response. Like target fixation, you must overcome this behavior.

Use both brakes and learn to use both brakes. None of the rationales for not using both holds up to scrutiny.

Lastly, braking properly is the one skill you can't perfect simply by riding. You must practice. Pick an empty lot and practice stopping from the same point. After a few warmups make your goal to stop one foot shorter each time. You'll surprise yourself and eventually, after a few sessions, you'll learn how to deal with both a front and rear tire skid.

As others have said, take at least the Basic Rider Course. It's the basis for all of your future learning.

  Very good info.

Hobbner, here's another book to read in the interim until you take the BRC course: "The Motorcycle Safety Foundation's Guide to Motorcycling Excellence" (second edition).

It's available from various sources, including the MSF's website range store: http://store.msf-usa.org/Store/MoreDetails.aspx?pid=135 It's a good read after the class as well.

[boom_car]

i know this is an old post, but my MSF course told us if you lock the rear break, let it of easy and reapply.

I'm going to tripple check in my book that we got... This is a canadian course.

I'm not trying to disagree with it, i'm confused now...

[JTM]

for your test it will be what ever the instructor says.

I'm probably wrong, if I'm going in a straight line (which is easy in TX) i will just leave the back tire locked.