KLRE 650 - Ninja powered KLR.

[Kraz]

Ok, so thanks to RepsolRider and his Super Rio on ADV, which is the basis for this build.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=640772&highlight=kle650

KLRE is a KLR650 with a Ninja or Versys 650 parallel twin motor in it.

Apologies in advance - I had LOTS of pictures, most of which got deleted by accident.    Basically the finished product (well, still have some details to touch up) is all the pictures I have, but just wanted to post her up anyway.

















Anyway, this is an amateur build at best, so excuse the shitty welds and setup.  I've only ridden the bike around the block so far, but so far, seems like plenty of power and similar weight to what it was in stock form.

Also posted on ADV, so apologies to those who monitor both forums.

[veefer800canuck]

What prompted the "interesting" exhaust?

Usually a slipon on stock headpipes for a thumper performs just fine.

[veefer800canuck]

Oh, nevermind, I get it now. I thought the twin headpipes were one for each exhaust valve, as Honda has done on some thumpers in the past. Sorry. Missed that.

[Kraz]

Ha!  My bad - guess I shoulda mentioned what this even was in the first place.

Original post edited to reflect what she is.

The point is to a have a smoother, more powerful, modern, fuel injected motor with 6 gears... I already had a KLR, and didn't want to blow a wad of money on a Tiger 800 etc. (though I would love one).

[Yankee Dog]

how much does it weigh.  more or less than a stock KLR??

[Kraz]

They say the motor is ~5lbs heavier than the single... I didn't weigh her, but it feels the same to me before and after.  Weight wasn't a concern for me really since the KLR is kind of a tank to begin with.  I dropped the skidplate and crash bars for now, so it actually may be really close to the same.

[DogBoy]

I like the original KLRE650 (at the start of the ADV thread) much better. As long as you're doing major mods, why not upgrade the suspension. The engine is not the weakest point of the KLR.

[scottzilla]

I admire the attempt for sure but the KLR chassis is pretty weak.  Throwing more HP and Torque may not be the answer.  I think this is why Kawi never built a 6sp, 2cyl KLR all these years.  It would have to be a completey different bike, you know?  

[veefer800canuck]

I like the original KLRE650 (at the start of the ADV thread) much better. As long as you're doing major mods, why not upgrade the suspension. The engine is not the weakest point of the KLR.

I think he was doing this on a budget, hence the lack of suspension bling.

But a decent aftermarket shock and some upgraded springs and fork internals would certainly help.

[Kraz]

Ok, well the front has progressive springs and new fluid, as well as a fork brace.  I actually love the way the front end feels now... it's as upgraded as it needs to be, but thanks for asking.  I really don't see the need to swap over to USD forks.

Rear shock?  Maybe someday.  It's an easy job and I don't need to do it right now.  This whole thing took a lot of time, but very little money.  I'm not really throwing money at bling, as has been mentioned, though it would be nice.  I'd love to take the time and money to build one like that other guy, but again, just a fun project to play around with, not a pro project, not a pro budget, no pro tools, and definitely no pro skills.  

I had a 685cc kit, and still found the motor grossly lacking.  Power was low, it's a 5 speed, and not smooth at all, lugs at low RPM so she was picky about the gears.  I guess if I have to explain why a new motor would be a good thing... well... nevermind.

EDIT: Further updates on ADV - wrong crowd for this kind of stuff I guess.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=710918

[stavro]

nice work man turned out well.  

[Nodaclu]

Love the idea and the execution!  

How difficult was it to mount up the new motor?

[919]

It sounds to me like you took a great all around motorcycle that could do everything, and made it better at everything, without breaking the bank.  

Have you found any drawbacks?

[Kraz]

Thanks for the responses...

Love the idea and the execution!  

How difficult was it to mount up the new motor?

The frame had to be altered a bit - but if you're comfortable with a welder it's relatively simple.  The hardest part is the lack of room for an airbox... I'm still playing around with that.  There are more pics of the build in the ADV thread I linked a few posts up.  All in all - she's pretty good as she sits, but if I figure out something permanent for the airbox, then I'll probably get power commander and a custom dyno map to sweeten the pot.

It sounds to me like you took a great all around motorcycle that could do everything, and made it better at everything, without breaking the bank.   Thumbsup

Have you found any drawbacks?

You hit the nail on the head with the "without breaking the bank" deal.  '08 KLR with goodies ran 3 grand or so - by selling the motor and buying a wrecked Ninja 650, I'm only in the hole a few hundred bucks.  Next best deal in my book would be to off-road-ize a Wee-Strom, or buy a Tiger 800 or 800GS, so I'm VERY happy with what I have for the money!

The only drawback is the fact that it's relatively unknown and unproven, but I'm not taking it to South America, so that doesn't bother me much.  I put it through some good abuse the first time out on washboard and dry river crossings, so I'm pretty confident in the strength of the frame.  The only other thing is the fact that I basically can't sell it - and I usually don't keep bikes more than a year or two, so I may be "stuck" with this rig for a while.    So far I don't really want to - but if the time comes where I want to go with something else, I may as well cut it down and sell it for scrap as I'm more than somewhat concerned about the legal ramifications of selling something like this in America, let along California.  

Overall, the bike is sooooo much better all around.  Next to the K12S, it's still a slouch, but it's night and day compared to even the 685cc single in terms of power, smoothness, and overall rideability.    Plus, I feel pretty good about might first really BIG project turning out well.  

[919]

The only drawback is the fact that it's relatively unknown and unproven, but I'm not taking it to South America, so that doesn't bother me much.  I put it through some good abuse the first time out on washboard and dry river crossings, so I'm pretty confident in the strength of the frame.  The only other thing is the fact that I basically can't sell it - and I usually don't keep bikes more than a year or two, so I may be "stuck" with this rig for a while.    So far I don't really want to - but if the time comes where I want to go with something else, I may as well cut it down and sell it for scrap as I'm more than somewhat concerned about the legal ramifications of selling something like this in America, let along California.  

You couldn't sell it "As is, custom"?  I feel like that would take care of liability, no?  Otherwise you could sell it on STn or ADV, if someone from these sites buys it you have to believe that they knew what they were getting.

Sent from pocket computer

[Kraz]

You couldn't sell it "As is, custom"?  I feel like that would take care of liability, no?  Otherwise you could sell it on STn or ADV, if someone from these sites buys it you have to believe that they knew what they were getting.

I don't know - you're probably right - but the whole thing just scares me.  Sounds logical to me, but courts don't seem to go far on logic anymore.

Maybe I'm just scared of what it'd actually sell for now.  

[Kraz]

Well, bike is dead in the water... won't start for nothin'.  Can't figure it out.  

What's scrap steel sell for these days?  

[Nodaclu]

Sorry to hear that!!

Most of the time, the first place I look is fueling, but in the case of a transplant like yours, I'd probably start with electrical.

[Andrew]

Well, bike is dead in the water... won't start for nothin'.  Can't figure it out.  

What's scrap steel sell for these days?  

How much??    and no I am not the litigious type

[Kraz]

Thanks for the advice, the more i play with it, the more I think you're right...

I took off the intake, and you can see the fuel spray if you crack the throttle a bit, and you can see the valves moving, but the fuel doesn't really seem to get sucked completely down the intake, and what does, doesn't ignite.  Which is realllly odd, as the plugs fire very often.  Once in a while you can get it to pop a little, but that ends up being flames in the intake...    I'm quite certain the timing is off - so maybe a new ECU will fix the problem?  I hate to throw money at it, but it's that or take apart all the wire bundles looking for a short.

I'm guessing the ECU went bad on its own, or I jacked it up with my last bit of welding (even though I always have the negative terminal disconnected, and it was running b/f it died, and this is probably the 10th time I've successfully welded on this bike, though admittedly, I used a different ground point this time), or some water (or metal dust from grinding) got into a connector and ruined something electrical, or the timing is being thrown off by a sensor/magnet that isn't doing so hot - but I doubt the last two.

A buddy brought over a timing gun, but it didn't work, probably b/c I have the coil sticks and not plug wires.  

 How much??  Bigsmile  and no I am not the litigious type

Why, you got an offer?    I'm outta here for a bit in December, so I'll probably get rid of at least one bike before I go... probably this one for cheap if I can't get it to run.    I really need to get this running again so I can have something to commute on while I work on the K12S, which would be a much easier sell.    If an ECU doesn't fix this, I'm probably on the mtn bike as a commuter as I get the Bimmer back in to ship shape.  

[phaze5]

after all that work don't quit now,,,,,,, an engine is an engine there are plenty of guys that could troubleshoot that,,good luck

[Kraz]

Thanks - just ordered an ECU online - we'll see where that rabbit hole takes us.  For the record, I thought I was a guy who knew how to troubleshoot.  

[DaisyCutter]

I admire the attempt for sure but the KLR chassis is pretty weak.  Throwing more HP and Torque may not be the answer.  I think this is why Kawi never built a 6sp, 2cyl KLR all these years.  It would have to be a completey different bike, you know?  

The better engine would definitely highlight the weak front springs and brake.


I had a KLR650, a 2006, with upgraded fork springs, oversized brake rotor, steel brake line, and fork brace.  Once I got accustomed to it squirming under me on the freeway, the low-hp engine immediately became the weak point.  Off road I could ride it pretty hard, but in that environment the windshield and mirrors always got in the way when I really pushed it (I lean over the bars a lot).

If the KLR were redesigned to be able to pull 100+mph, 2up, and still retain it's off road ability, I'd be sold on one, esp if it were $$$ cheaper than a F800GS.

[Kraz]

The better engine would definitely highlight the weak front springs and brake.

Like I said, I already have a great front end with new springs, oil, and fork brace, and the front brake was upgraded with the new generation in 2008, so no issues really doing the engine swap... so long as the engine runs.  

Anyway, new ECU in today, no change.  

I'm thinking I have to have a wiring glitch or timing sensor blown...  

 

UPDATE: New wiring harness - no change.  New timing sensor too - same same.   FML.

[Kraz]

OK -

Bought a compression gauge - Pep Boys special - $40, so not top of the line.  It's unproven as it's new but...

She says ~70PSI per cylinder.  The manual calls for 139-213 @ 400rpm.

I don't have a leakdown gauge - but if I crank the engine by hand, NO pressure registers, so either the cylinders don't hold pressure (likely, considering the bike won't start), or the check valve on the compression gauge is too strong... or I don't understand something here.    Doesn't sound right to me, but what do I know...  I double checked

So, buy a new engine?   I'm not pulling the head to do valve work - F that - and the cams are lined up correctly.

Does anyone here think I have something else going on?

[Andrew]

Compression is equal (both cyl the same) but low, cam timing is accurate?

Did you have a good battery (god cranking speed) with the throttle held WFO?

[maddjack]

Did the engine run , before you tucked it into the new frame?

[sleazy rider]

Did you get the air box sorted out or were you running without?  If the latter, prepare for rebuilding the top end.  

For compression testing purposes, try adding a couple tablespoons of oil in the cylinder, then crank it for several seconds to get a new reading.  If it gets better, you need new rings.  If not, it's the valves not seating.  Mechanics 101.

Secondly, do you have spark at the plug?  Pull one out and crank the bike to see if it arcs at the plug.  Three things needed to make a motor run - gas, spark and air.

[phaze5]

 

[Kraz]

Many thanks for all the replies...

Compression is equal (both cyl the same) but low, cam timing is accurate?

Yep.  Within 3 psi on the compression.  Checked cam timing twice now, looks spot on.

Did you have a good battery (god cranking speed) with the throttle held WFO?

Battery is new and on a tender.  Bike's been down for a month, but cranks very well.

Did the engine run , before you tucked it into the new frame?

Yes - I ran the bike with this engine in her for a month or so b/f going for the new intake system.  Ran well, never so much as a hiccup.

Did you get the air box sorted out or were you running without?  If the latter, prepare for rebuilding the top end.  

The bike ran with K&N type filters hose clamped over the throttle bodies for about a month b/f I decided to do the airbox idea.

For compression testing purposes, try adding a couple tablespoons of oil in the cylinder, then crank it for several seconds to get a new reading.  If it gets better, you need new rings.  If not, it's the valves not seating.  Mechanics 101.

Interesting, thank you.

Secondly, do you have spark at the plug?  Pull one out and crank the bike to see if it arcs at the plug.  Three things needed to make a motor run - gas, spark and air.

Tons of spark, fuel injectors are spraying well, and air is no issue.  I just can't check spark timing with the old school timing gun I have, as it needs a no shitter plug wire to use it, and I have coil sticks.

EDIT: Checked the compression gauge on a 70's R90/6 (900cc twin w/ much lower compression) and she registered 120psi - so I think the gauge is just fine and I have a pretty major compression problem.  Head will most likely come off soon.

[Kraz]

OK - I hooked up some air pressure to the cylinders and a good amount of air could be felt/heard in the inspection cover of the side case... so either air was getting past the rings, or to gasket was majorly jacked, or I'm doing it wrong (wouldn't be the first time  ).

Right or wrong, I pulled the head.  Pics below.  The cylinder walls look good to me, but the pistons look a bit nasty.






Gasket is metal - can't really tell if was good or bad.

Head looks fine, though a bit nasty like the pistons.  Valves look normal to me...




Anyway - I thought I'd find something obvious.  So either I'm obviously missing something, or I'm barking up the wrong tree (again).

So... on to questions:

Am I missing something?

Pistons/head with so much crud - normal or not?

Should I pull the cylinders and look at the rings?  I'm thinking yes, but what's the point if cylinder walls look good?

Is there a way to tell if the gasket was blown by looking at it?  It's a metal gasket that looks normal to me.  No water in the oil that I can see.

[phaze5]

you were sucking something in there, re ring it your almost there,

[photomd]

Did this bike suddenly stop running? If so, I'd bet it's electrical. That or it's the last thing you changed before it quit running. If it was the rings, pistons, or block, it would slowly and progessively get harder to start, especially when cold. Also as the piston, cylinders and rings wear, it'll start smoking and using oil. You've already switched out the ECU and trigger. Can you check the throttle position sensor? Does it have a MAP sensor? Is it OK?

Also, you say it ran before you changed the intake. If your intake is leaking, it may be running too lean to start. Can you return to the previous K&N filters and see if it runs.

[Kraz]

Did this bike suddenly stop running? If so, I'd bet it's electrical. That or it's the last thing you changed before it quit running.

Yep, I was done with the intake swap and it was idling fine, then sputtered and never re-lit.

 If it was the rings, pistons, or block, it would slowly and progessively get harder to start, especially when cold. Also as the piston, cylinders and rings wear, it'll start smoking and using oil. You've already switched out the ECU and trigger. Can you check the throttle position sensor? Does it have a MAP sensor? Is it OK?

No MAP sensor that I'm aware of.  TPS I haven't changed, but if it were the TPS, I'd think it would start, but run poorly.  I thought it was electrical too, but with low compression and already swapping out major electrical components, I started looking elsewhere.

Also, you say it ran before you changed the intake. If your intake is leaking, it may be running too lean to start. Can you return to the previous K&N filters and see if it runs.

The bike will run with no intake at all, as well as a really restricted intake.  No intake and bad restriction will cause it to run a bit funny, but she'll start no problem.  There's more than a missing air filter here - and again - compression was clearly an issue.


All the crud is probably from me running the bike too rich with too restrictive of an intake... and perhaps it was burning oil as well and I didn't realize it.  The head gasket could have gone kittywompus, but no tell tale signs don't surprise me as it's metal and could  have happened at low RPM.  Doesn't matter now - it's gotta be replaced anyway.

[Andrew]

Got any crud on the valve seats??  
Flip the head so that the intake ports are facing up, pour some solvent/light oil/water (anything thin and wet) and see if the valves hold the fluid. Try again with the exhaust side. If you have a leaking valve you will know which one (ones) real quick.

THe cylinders and pistons look ok, maybe a bit of carbon but not tooo bad. Don't waste the time going further down that road.

[Kraz]

 Don't waste the time going further down that road.

F*(#$....





Discuss:

[phaze5]

one ringy dingy

[photomd]

There's no blow by?

[Kraz]

There's no blow by?

 

There's pretty much nothing now.

[veefer800canuck]

Except for some minor to moderate carbon buildup, your motor looks fine.

I'd wet test the valves as described above (varsol works great) and if they leak like niagara falls, get that taken care of.

The pistons and rings and bore look fine. You can still see the cross-hatch on the cylinder walls, and the rings have no discernable vertical scoring, and if they did, you'd have corresponding scoring on the cylinder walls in the same locations.

Also the piston skirts look almost new from what I can see. No scuffing at all.

Even IF the bores were badly scored, and IF the rings and valves were totally shot, it should still RUN as long as it's getting fuel and spark at the correct times, it would just burn some oil and be down on power, and perhaps a bit rough.

Engines in extremely bad shape will still run, just not well. The fact that yours was not running AT ALL, and the inside of the engine looks that beautiful (again, a little carbon isn;t a big deal), I'd strongly suspect something else.

[Kraz]

 I'd strongly suspect something else.

Anyone think it could have been the head gasket?

[veefer800canuck]

I think it's the timing belt.  






 

[Andrew]

F*(#$....





Discuss:

OK looks good to me


Did you wet check the valves first? or read that a bit too late.  Well at least you get the fun of reassembling things

Here is a crazy thought, does the engine have coil on plug ignition, could the wires be switched?  YA the compression is low but it is even between cylinders.

[Andrew]

Anyone think it could have been the head gasket?

NO

[veefer800canuck]

It's a metal head gasket, so if it was shot, you'd see it burned off where the leak is.

The cooling system would likely be pressuring up when it had been running, and probably bubbles going into the coolant reserve tank.

[Kraz]

OK looks good to me


Did you wet check the valves first? or read that a bit too late.  Well at least you get the fun of reassembling things

Here is a crazy thought, does the engine have coil on plug ignition, could the wires be switched?  YA the compression is low but it is even between cylinders.

Ignition is by coil sticks.  I have an old school timing light, but b/c it's a stick w/o a legit wire, I can't check the spark timing with this light, which is too bad.  Anyway, the plug connectors are numbered on the wires and the valve cover has the numbers pointing to the holes as well.  If that's not enough, then I'm pretty sure that the bike has a wasted spark, firing off twice as often as it needs to, just in case... but yes, I switched the wires around just for kicks.  I double checked the injector connectors as well.


Haven't done a wet check on the valves... Reassembly?  We'll see about that.    I've got plenty going on besides all this BS.  Anyone want a project?  



Pirate walks into a bar with a steering wheel in his pants and the bar tender says... "Say, that doesn't look too comfortable."

"YARRRR - It's been driving me NUTS!!!"



That's kinda how I feel right now.

[photomd]

IMHO, you need a manual or access to specific tests for the new engine. Can you pull codes from the ECU? My last Kwak had a very specific shop manual that taught me more than most generic shop manuals. The kwak manual went into primary and secondary resistence of coils, the theory as well as the specifics of the charging system, etc. I'd think you need to start there before you tear more stuff apart.

Again, IMHO, the compression test has to be taken in context. A normally running bike won't loose compression in a matter of minutes and die. I've bet your low reading was due to the engine being cold, the throttles not being WFO, or the engine spinning too slowly. A manual would help make sense of this. If you keep guessing without having some objective evidence of where to go, you'll probably end up frustrated...I know I would. Good luck. It's a cool project. If you ever end up in SC with that thing, drop me a line. I'll help with it.

[Kraz]

Thanks - all valid points.

I have the factory service manual, which is quite detailed.  There's no dummy light on, but I'll check the codes if I'm able.  Some of the problem is that it's so hard to check certain things w/o the Kawi special tools and computers.  I knew I shoulda stuck with an old Guzzi...  

I've got new gaskets coming soon (not soon enough) and I'll check the head some more b/f I put her all back together again.

[Kraz]

Reassembled - no joy.

Exact same symptoms as before.

 

[Andrew]

Did ya wet check the valves??

[Kraz]

Did ya wet check the valves??

I basically poured some WD-40 down the intake and exhaust ports (not at the same time) with the head on her side, and nothing came out... so if that's a wet test, then yes.    First time doin' that, but seems simple enough.  B/f I tore her apart I had compressed air hooked up to the cylinder and no air was going out the valves as far as I could tell - so I think the valves are OK.

I really want to check the spark timing.

[Andrew]

To check spark timing Without buying extra tools, Get a single spark plug wire (old car, junk yard, unsuspecting neighbors car where ever) plug one end onto the spark plug, cut the other end off leaving enough length to give you some slack. put the cut end into the coil (plug side) All the way in. keep the coil away from the bike or you. Put a timing light on the spark plug wire and crank away.  The output from the coil will find it easier to travel down the plug wire than jump to a grounded bit of the bike as long as you keep some distance from said coil and the bike(4 inches should do).

Another way is to use a voltmeter or LED test light to see when the ECU turns off the ground to the primary side of the coil as you are watching the timing marks.

Assuming the bike has a crank sensor, could you just fool the sensor and see if the plugs fire.

Do the injectors fire? if so and same with the ign coils, crank sensor is good. Not sure how the timing could be off as on most newer engines the trigger for the cam & crank sensors are not adjustable.  

Better to look for what the ECU is not seeing, Power & grounds as well as sensors. Not too hard as most all sensors are varying resistors (temp sensors), A/C generator (two wire position sensors) or PIP (3 wire ) sensors.

[Kraz]

You sound like a really smart fella.  Thanks for all the info.  



Just came back off a small trip, so my give a shit has left the building, as well as the mc expense account...

http://www.sport-touring.net/forums/index.php/topic,67777.0.html#msg1562201




I'll have to wait for some motivation to show up and I'll get back into her.

-m

To check spark timing Without buying extra tools, Get a single spark plug wire (old car, junk yard, unsuspecting neighbors car where ever) plug one end onto the spark plug, cut the other end off leaving enough length to give you some slack. put the cut end into the coil (plug side) All the way in. keep the coil away from the bike or you. Put a timing light on the spark plug wire and crank away.  The output from the coil will find it easier to travel down the plug wire than jump to a grounded bit of the bike as long as you keep some distance from said coil and the bike(4 inches should do).

Another way is to use a voltmeter or LED test light to see when the ECU turns off the ground to the primary side of the coil as you are watching the timing marks.

Assuming the bike has a crank sensor, could you just fool the sensor and see if the plugs fire.

Do the injectors fire? if so and same with the ign coils, crank sensor is good. Not sure how the timing could be off as on most newer engines the trigger for the cam & crank sensors are not adjustable.  

Better to look for what the ECU is not seeing, Power & grounds as well as sensors. Not too hard as most all sensors are varying resistors (temp sensors), A/C generator (two wire position sensors) or PIP (3 wire ) sensors.

[veefer800canuck]

Any progress? It's gotta be something simple. The motor innards look great.

[Kraz]

I think it's the piston rings.

I feel like a F'ing idiot for doing this, but I put it back together feeling like that was it.  It's hard to tell from the photos, and I probably should have explained it more, but the rings were completely fused to the piston and needed no compression to slide in.

I ordered a set of rings and pistons and will put them in soon... perhaps.  I've got a lot on my plate as I leave for about half a year soon, so we'll see.  I also don't have a vehicle, so fixing this up would be a pretty good idea.

[veefer800canuck]

Bad Rings won't stop an engine from running. It'll burn oil like a mother, have less power, pressure up the crankcase, and send off a smokescreen worthy of a WWII fighter plane going down over the pacific, but it'll still run. At least until both the Sparkplugs (eventually) totally foul and bridge their gaps and don't fire anymore.

Your earlier description of how it was running fine "until", seemed a little sudden. It was run/no run.

I still think its a simple thing interrupting the fire triangle.

Fuel. Air. Spark.

Anyhow, I hope you get it running soon. Good luck.

[Kraz]

Yeah, but that's like worn rings (I'm hoping).

Let's say this basically has no rings... would an engine w/o rings run?  I think the lack of compression is the factor here - I don't think it's even sucking in the air/fuel mixture as it should.  

If it's not this I'm giving it away.

Bad Rings won't stop an engine from running. It'll burn oil like a mother, have less power, pressure up the crankcase, and send off a smokescreen worthy of a WWII fighter plane going down over the pacific, but it'll still run. At least until both the Sparkplugs (eventually) totally foul and bridge their gaps and don't fire anymore.

Your earlier description of how it was running fine "until", seemed a little sudden. It was run/no run.

I still think its a simple thing interrupting the fire triangle.

Fuel. Air. Spark.

Anyhow, I hope you get it running soon. Good luck.

[hovmaven]

Dibs.  

[Kraz]

Dibs.

She started up with new pistons/rings.  

I only heard her idle for a quick second - then I shut her off.  I've got some loctite gasket stuff on there and want that to set.



EDIT: All done.  Went for a quick ride today and seems AOK.  She definitely runs better than before, but maybe a bit rich or lean at high RPM... I'm sure a Dyno run could fix that, but it's better than it needs to be for my purposes.

Remind me never to make a custom anything ever again.


Many thanks to all those with input over the last months.

[Kraz]

For the record, this is what the rings SHOULD look like.  





As compared to what I had:



Where the gap was closed, ring fused to the piston.

[veefer800canuck]

She started up with new pistons/rings.  

I only heard her idle for a quick second - then I shut her off.  I've got some loctite gasket stuff on there and want that to set.



EDIT: All done.  Went for a quick ride today and seems AOK.  She definitely runs better than before, but maybe a bit rich or lean at high RPM... I'm sure a Dyno run could fix that, but it's better than it needs to be for my purposes.

Remind me never to make a custom anything ever again.


Many thanks to all those with input over the last months.

Well smack me and call me Sally. Glad it's fixed. Funny it wouldn't run AT ALL with bum/siezed rings. Usually, engines will just run BADLY, but they still run.

When I was a small lad, my friends dad had an old station wagon with one totally shot cylinder. It poured out blue smoke like there was no tomorrow, with almost no compression on that cylinder. Didn't make noise, just tons of smoke. He needed the car on the road, too many kids, not enough money.

He asked my brother (heavy duty mechanic) what he should do about it (sell/junk the car, buy new motor, rebuild motor NOT being an option for him, due to $$$) and my brother told him to disconnect the sparkplug wire from that cylinder and remove the wire completely from the car.

Sure enough, it ran on the other 7 cylinders and stopped smoking by about 90%. Didn't "solve" the problem, but it sure did mask it, and that's all the guy could afford.  

[phaze5]

good for you enjoy it and make sure ya run it with a good air cleaner

[Kraz]

make sure ya run it with a good air cleaner

Yep... fooled me once...  

I think the problem started with welding dust settling in the frame.  I used a huge pipe cleaner to scrub it, but probably should have used water.

Lesson learned.

[Justin]

Positive juju sent   - I for one think you've had enough bike drama this year  

[Kraz]

Positive juju sent  

 

I for one think you've had enough bike drama this year  

You and me both.    New year starts soon though.  



Rode in to work today - Pretty much solid!  Feels sooooo goooood.....  

[Kraz]

Ok - rode to work all week and she's a great bike.  

Put on the Craigslist and ADV classifieds, didn't do an ad here b/c I'm lazy.  I don't really think she'll sell (she'll just sit   ), so I'll probably continue to improve upon her when I get back.

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/2746185167.html

I think the price on ADV is less @ 3g's.