PCV + auto-tune -- to dyno or not to dyno?

[expatbrit]

OK. So it's time for the experts on everything, because I've got a nice spread of conflicting opinions from people I talk to, and Internet research has made it worse!

If I have a PCV and an auto-tune, how do I get the best results out of it without spending tonnes of cash:

• Dyno tune it, then have the auto-tune keep the engine running at that AFR as the situation changes?
• Stuff a vaguely appropriate map onto it from Dynojet, go into the auto-tune and accept the trims?
• Just let the auto-tune do it's job, and accept the trims
• Something else

My racer buddy has option 3. The dyno guy says option 1 (he makes money on that though). The guys at the local shop differed. I've no bloody clue.

[Cablebandit]

The whole point of auto-tune is to just let it do it's own thing.

[Justin]

The whole point of auto-tune is to just let it do it's own thing.

+1

[bisbonian]

I just let the autotune do it's thing and go in and accept the trims when I think about it.

In the beginning I was going in every couple of days, if I had a 20 value for a trim there was probably more that needed adjusting so checking more often was more important.

I hadn't checked in a couple of months until the other night when I went in, none were at the 20 level so I guess it's doing a good job.  I accepted the trims and moved on.

[CLAY]

My favorite use of the auto-tune:

I honestly saw this post and thought "Why is he using an autotune with the bike"?  I had to google it.  I have never heard of this auto-tune.  Then again, I ride a Bandit with carbs.  

[Zixxerpilot]

Always dyno.  Always always always.  The autotune is relying in a narrow band air fuel measurement,  and basic data.  It can tune in range,  but its very crude in comparison to a proper tune.  The other option is to hit up the community and find someone running a similar setup,  who already has a good dyno'd map. 



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[tomek]

Auto Tune relies on the wideband oxygen sensor , not the narrow one . It  will basically tune to the AFRs across the rpm and load range ( air to fuel ratio ) that you punch in .
 It depends what you want to achieve with your tune and , frankly , how much do you know about engines .
If you are capable person Auto Tune is good enough IMHO.
 
Having said that if you want squeeze out absolutely , positively everything from particular engine it has  to be dyno tuned by very experienced operator . He has to  check how the engine reacts ( power ) to different AFRs because , let`s say , 12.7 A/F might not be the best  at particular rpm and load box .