Replacing calipers with another bike's calipers

[Fourstring]

I see it all the time when someone shows off a well-farkled bike:  "Got rid of the stock crap brakes and swapped 'em for a 42-pot set off a ZX10/Busa/monster truck/747..."

Well, I just split the calipers on my ZX; road grime and salt has put these to bed.  I have two pistons that will probably never move again.  I need new calipers for this bike to ride again.

But pickings for a 13 year old bike are slim, and a lot of the new old stock is used up.  I'd like to get some take-offs from a more modern bike, if possible.  Is there any way of knowing what's going to bolt right up?

Edit:  The 1999 ZX9 uses a fairly generic Tokico six-pot setup.

[veefer800canuck]

A little googling found this:

yes i got feed up with my 6 pots sticking on and binding, you need nissin 4 pots off a mk 1 1200 bandit and master cylinder its a straight swap, its what im running on my e1 now a much better set up,

I think that's 1996 to 2000 Bandits, as the 2001s got the six pot Tokicos like you have already. But you should check to be 100% certain.

I got the info about the model years off Wikipedia, and the quote off this forum:

http://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-9r-forum/35643-zx9r-e1-caliper-swap.html

[DogBoy]

The ZRX1200 had those exact same calipers as the late model ZX-9 for most years (I think any ZRX caliper will fit). I'm sure several others models used the same calipers. Shouldn't be hard to find.

[Fourstring]

 I'm sure several others models used the same calipers. Shouldn't be hard to find.

Man, you said it.  Did a little further research; there's probably 50 models that used these things.

Found a set on fleabay for a hundred bucks in the faster gold color, came off a ZX12, which is 3 mo' better.  Now I just have to learn how to swap brakes.  

[bomber]

Man, you said it.  Did a little further research; there's probably 50 models that used these things.

Found a set on fleabay for a hundred bucks in the faster gold color, came off a ZX12, which is 3 mo' better.  Now I just have to learn how to swap brakes.  

Easy peasy -- getcherass to the Lab, String!

[Fourstring]

Getting there is cake- STOPPING there will be the problem.

[bomber]

you got a rear brake, doncha?

;-}

[Tyrroneous]

you got a rear brake, doncha?

;-}

 

Reminds me of my first motorcycle in high school...an 18 year old CB200T with a cable actuated disc brake that was absolutely useless no matter how hard I squeezed the lever.  I relied solely on the rear drum brake and bald 10 year old tires for stopping power for the two years I owned it.  How am I still alive to tell the tale?    

[dietDrThunder]

If you didn't buy them already (I think you did) the early 2000's GSXR 600 and 750 calipers will bolt right on (as well as Triumph 4-pots from 95-98, but good luck finding those) and work at least as well as the 6-pot jobbers.

Pro tip: When you put new pads in the 6-pot calipers, use a piece of glass to make 100% certain that the new pads are perfectly flat. Often they aren't, and you'll never get acceptable brake feel if this is the case because much of your braking effort goes into flexing them flat before the whole surface grabs.

I raced a TL-R for a season, and I had to send an entire box of pads back to EBC for this reason (the supposedly extry special HH+ 'kit' pads too, natch).

[Fourstring]

Thanks for the tip on the glass; I hadn't thought of that.

New calipers showed up today.  They look a little grungy, but they're take-offs from a blown bike, so I can't be too surprised.  Even still had pads in 'em and the hoses attached, although those are going in the trash.  Is there any way to check if these pots are frozen before I install?  I'd hate to swap one problem for another.

Way back when I bought the bike, it came with a set of stainless steel, color-matched Galfer lines, and I've never got around to installing them.  This seems as good a time as any.

[bomber]

if the pistons are not coimpletly bottomed in their bores, you should be able to push them further in without a lot of effort . . . if they are bottomed out, compressed air can often move them out, but be careful -- they can move with a fair amount of vigor this way. Fingers will not stop them, at least, not immediately.

[mxvet57]

Are there any C-clips involved?    

[jvick98]

Clean those pistons with brake fluid and a tooth brush before pushing them in.  Even better, use a rag and a small board and push them out a dab with compressed air to be able to clean a greater area.

Jim

[bomber]

Are there any C-clips involved?    

I don't believe so, no --

In any event, I sold the C-Clip business to Busy Little Shop - I'm sure he's doing great with it

[dietDrThunder]

IMO used unknown-source calipers need a seal rebuild before trusting life and limb to them. It's not (probably) terribly expensive, isn't difficult or time consuming, and when you're done you'll _know_ what state your brakes are in.

[Fourstring]

Done!  That was easy.  

I haven't bled the brakes to see if it actually works yet.   I don't have a syringe and the gravity method takes forever with empty calipers/lines.  I'm going to a different parts store tonight to see if I can find a speed bleeder.

[mxvet57]

Done!  That was easy.  

 I'm going to a different parts store tonight to see if I can find a speed bleeder.

I've got one. need to use it?

[Fourstring]

I've got one. need to use it?

Depends.  Will it work if I pump the lever a billion times?

[HanksXXX]

If they don't work out, I have a couple sets of 4 piston 1200 Bandit calipers from my own bikes...Clean and low mileage...Hank

[mxvet57]

Depends.  Will it work if I pump the lever a billion times?

It makes a vacuum and pulls the fluid from the reservoir down to the bleeder screw. A few pumps of the lever to get out the remaining air and done. Should take less than 5 min. a side.

:EDIT: Duh   When you said speed bleeder i was thinking vacuum bleeder not the after market bleeder screws.