Storing a bike for ~6 months in a mild climate

[bluepoof]

I'm going to be storing the Ninjette until about June.    Living in California, I've never had to winterize or anything unnatural like that so I'm looking for advice.

Here's what I'm planning on doing:

* Adding Stabil to a 3/4 full tank of gas
* Draining the carbs
* Changing the oil -- do I need to change the filter, too?
* Hooking it up to a battery tender
* Lubing the chain and cables
* Keeping the bike on the center stand (as opposed to side stand)
* I plan on starting the bike once a month or so just to circulate the oil. I presume I should drain the carbs again after each time I start it.

In June, when I can ride again, I'll change the oil again (and filter if I don't do it now), re-lube everything, and do a more extensive tune-up including valve adjustment etc (it's actually due for that now but I think that can wait if I'm not going to be riding).

Does that all seem reasonable? Am I missing anything? It'll be stored in a garage and it never gets below freezing here.

[nater]

Change the oil before you go ride next June.  No point in doing that now.  Fill the gas tank all the way to prevent rust (and add Stabil).  Drain the carbs.  Hook the battery up to the tender.  Don't worry about starting the bike unless you just want to hear it run.  Also, it dosen't matter if you put the bike on the side stand or the center stand.

[Scratch33]

Am I missing anything? It'll be stored in a garage and it never gets below freezing here.

Only thing I can think to add would be mothballs - to dissuade squeaky lil things from setting up shop in the airbox.

[919]

  Also, it dosen't matter if you put the bike on the side stand or the center stand.

I think the center stand would be better just to get the rear wheel off the ground.  When a bike sits for a long time without being moved the tire can lose air pressure and all that weight in the same spot can create a flat spot / ridge in the tire.  When I had to store my bike I did all the good advice above (less the mothballs, guess I lucked out and didn't have a boarder), put the bike on the center stand and then put a piece of foam under the front tire.  

The foam I used was a piece of an interlocking floor tile for gym equipment.  I put it there to alleviate some of the pressure on the front tire and to insulate the tire from the cold concrete.

Stabil was mentioned, but I like to use Star Tron - http://mystarbrite.com/startron//content/view/35/47/lang,en/

It eliminates the ethanol in the gasoline, I like to use it every couple of tanks even when I'm not storing it.

[Mr.Black]

It isn't actually stored, more like less active. I use the center stand, stabilizer in a FULL tank of fuel since any airspace may promote moisture and its subsequent corrosion, battery tender and defiantly the moth balls. I take several of my mismatched socks, put a handful in each and tuck them in the spots where the wires live and in the air box.

[scottzilla]

I'm going to be storing the Ninjette until about June.    Living in California, I've never had to winterize or anything unnatural like that so I'm looking for advice.

Here's what I'm planning on doing:

* Adding Stabil to a 3/4 full tank of gas
* Draining the carbs
* Changing the oil -- do I need to change the filter, too?
* Hooking it up to a battery tender
* Lubing the chain and cables
* Keeping the bike on the center stand (as opposed to side stand)
* I plan on starting the bike once a month or so just to circulate the oil. I presume I should drain the carbs again after each time I start it.

In June, when I can ride again, I'll change the oil again (and filter if I don't do it now), re-lube everything, and do a more extensive tune-up including valve adjustment etc (it's actually due for that now but I think that can wait if I'm not going to be riding).

Does that all seem reasonable? Am I missing anything? It'll be stored in a garage and it never gets below freezing here.

I think you will be just fine.  However, I would not even start the bike unless you will allow the engine to get hot.  If you run it for a few minutes, the hot air will condense with cooler air, and you know what the end result of this is.
I would not bother starting it until you are ready to ride.

[scottzilla]

One other thing...
I think the belief that the tank must be full is a bit of an urban legend.  Air that condenses into water will simply sink to the bottom of the tank regardless of how much gas happens to be in the tank.  

[Mrs. DantesDame]

 
I've just put four bikes into "winter storage mode" and will be watching this thread to see what others have to say.


Blue - your list sounds more comprehensive than mine. Good job!  

[veefer800canuck]

Another good thing to do after you drain the carbs Is to remove the Sparkplugs and squirt about a tablespoon of 2 stroke motor oil into each cylinder.

Put the plugs back in and crank the motor over for a few seconds to get the oil smeared around inside.

This will keep your rings and valves from rusting while sitting.

It burns right off when you restart the bike later on.

[APEowner]

When I was the service manager at a Yamaha dealership here in upstate NY we winterized between 30 and 40 bikes a year for customers.  When we used the the procedures below we never had a storage related problem with spring startups.

Stabil in a nearly full tank of fuel. (I have seen rust above the gas line on a not full tank.  You need to leave a little room for expansion on hot days, Stabil recommends their marine grade for fuels with alcohol)

Run the bike long enough to get treated fuel in the carbs. (the best way is to take it for one last ride)

With the bike still running apply the choke (which is actually a fuel enrichment circuit on most carbs)to get treated fuel in that circuit.  Move the lever just enough that you can hear a change in the way it's running and hold it there a second or two.  If the bike dies turn off the choke and restart the bike to burn excess fuel out of the cylinders.

Shut off the bike and change the oil and the filter (the idea is that the used oil has accumulated nasty stuff that's not good for the seals and is corrosive)

In California you can probably leave the battery in the bike but in colder climates you should pull the battery and store it somewhere that it won't freeze. Alternatively you could store the whole bike somewhere it won't freeze.

If you can it is a good idea to park the bike on the center stand and even block the front forks so that the front tire is off the ground.

Some folks like to fog or oil the cylinders.  We would do that if the customer preferred but I can't say that I've noticed a difference in piston ring life between bikes that had that done and those that didn't.  I don't do it on mine.

In the spring, set your tire pressures, top the battery off with distilled water, charge it, stick it in and go.

The rodent issue can sometimes be addressed with mothballs.  I've had the best luck using a cat as a deterrent but the obvious downside of that is that you have cat.

[bluepoof]

 I've had the best luck using a cat as a deterrent but the obvious downside of that is that you have cat.

We have four of those anyway, so we're already in trouble.

Thanks, everyone!   I'll be doing The Big Sleep for the bike the first weekend in December so I'll keep you all posted.  

[bomber]

Rodent deterant -- drier sheets also do a good job, and can be tucked in places that you might not want to put mothballs (like in the tailpipe, in your boots, and helmet . . ..  )

Don't neglect to change the oil (and filter) -- as others have noted, used oil has combustion byproducts in it, many of which are acidic . . . it's cheap insurance.

[Mr. Whippy]

IMO, the MOST important items in this list are the fuel related ones.   The new gas formulation absorbs a LOT more water.   Fresh gas, Stabil  (or other additive that deals with the alcohol issue) and draining out the carbs.  The oil change is theoretical, imo.  Used to be more of a problem with the older oil chemistries.

Battery on trickle charger OR pull it, either one.

I would suggest NOT running the bike a little every month unless you get it up above 180F for a time to evaporate all the water from combustion.

I use this minimalistic approach for all my motor toys (generators, lawnmowers, chainsaws, motorcycles, tractors, ATVs) and it has served me well for 20 years.

[motomem]

Only 6 months - why all the trouble.
Battery Charger and cover over it.
In June put a'little Sea Foam in the tank and enjoy.

Oh - yeah Congratulations! Mighty happy for ya'll.

[ConPilot1]

I'm going to be storing the Ninjette until about June.    Living in California, I've never had to winterize or anything unnatural like that so I'm looking for advice.

Here's what I'm planning on doing:

* Adding Stabil to a 3/4 full tank of gas

Poof that should just about cover it if it's indoors and mild weather.

Fill that tank to the brim however with your stabil/gas mixture. No airspace in the tank.  

I'd hose everything down liberally with WD-40 also, Engine, dashboard, cables, brake levers etc etc. Spray that thing till it's dripping all over the floor.


And yeah move one of your spoiled fat cats out to the garage with the bike and keep him a little hungry. No mouse problem.  

[Mr. Whippy]

The WD-40 on electrics and metal surfaces will help prevent surface corrosion.  Not sure it's necessary, but it won't hurt.

[ConPilot1]

The WD-40 on electrics and metal surfaces will help prevent surface corrosion.  Not sure it's necessary, but it won't hurt.

Keeps the rubbers and stuff from drying out too.


But it's too late to worry about that.  

[Thunderbox]

One other thing I would recommend is to buy an exhaust plug from a deal and plug the exhaust outlet just to prevent moist air from getting in there or rain or critter.  Exhaust plugs are cheap.

[scottzilla]

Who new parking a bike for 6 months would be so much work?
Apparently parking them is a lot harder that just riding them.

I suggest removing the cams.  Seriously.  

[Mr. Whippy]

Who new parking a bike for 6 months would be so much work?
Apparently parking them is a lot harder that just riding them.

I suggest removing the cams.  Seriously.  

Stablize the gas and keep the battery on a charger.  What's so hard about that?

[UHOH]

Change the oil before you go ride next June.  No point in doing that now.  Fill the gas tank all the way to prevent rust (and add Stabil).  Drain the carbs.  Hook the battery up to the tender.  Don't worry about starting the bike unless you just want to hear it run.  Also, it dosen't matter if you put the bike on the side stand or the center stand.

agree this will get you thru in good shape.  I add Stabil to full tank and
then run it around block to get the stabilized fuel into at start of similar process.
only I don't drain fuel = good for you.  No problems for me, though.

[UHOH]

One other thing...
I think the belief that the tank must be full is a bit of an urban legend.  Air that condenses into water will simply sink to the bottom of the tank regardless of how much gas happens to be in the tank.  

yes, and that is (or was) the problem, bloop of water initiates rust on iron tanks; over many years this will grow.
That's why gas line antifreeze was a help in cold climates, it eliminated the bloop of water in bottom of partially full tank,
but the full tank helped more.   In southern CA, the OP should be OK.

Now, ethanol gasoline is delivered with dispersed water - can't be helped.
... used to work in a corrosion research lab.

[bluepoof]

In southern CA, the OP should be OK.

Northern actually, so we do get a little chillier than our friends to the south, but we generally don't hit freezing, so I think the point still stands.

[Andrew]

Northern actually, so we do get a little chillier than our friends to the south, but we generally don't hit freezing, so I think the point still stands.

Store it Not Needed, just have Peter ride it once a week  See wasn't that simple

[bluepoof]

Peter won't ride his own bikes, much less mine!  

[motomem]

OK so lets store your bike.
Run the bike with 1/2 cup of Marvel Mystery Oil to 1 gal of aviation fuel until blue smoke comes out the exhaust.
Then shake the tank to coat the inside - drain all gas from the tank and fuel system.
Change the oil to Purple whatever pure synthetic oil, run and then repeat.
Remove the plugs and put 1/2 teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder.
Wash it real good and blow dry.
Park in a garage maintained at a constant 80 degrees.
Raise both wheels off the ground. Place a 1/2 inch sheet of rubber between each tire and the floor.
Use only the finest grade paste wax - apply but don't remove.
Unhook all wiring connections and apply dialectic grease to each after cleaning them with 1/3 cup of vinegar in 1/2 gallon water.
Spray all wiring and rubber parts with silicone spray - never use WD40 on rubber.
Using an air hose set at 30lbs spray all wiring and rubber parts to work the silicone in.
Remove the battery and place on one of those new chargers that de-sulfide the plates. Be sure it is at least 4 feet above any concrete.
Using gun oil coat all exposed metal parts. Pivot points need a light coat of Honda Moly Grease.
Using 8 tie downs - anchor 4 to the floor and 4 from the ceiling.
Cover the bike with an electric blanket set on Medium and a oil cloth tarp on top of that.
Place 1 gallon of moisture absorb under the tarp setup.
Sprinkle a circle of moth balls completely around the bike.
You should then be good for close to 6 months.
 

[JReazor]

Peter won't ride his own bikes, much less mine!  

Drop it off here. I'll put some miles on it over the winter. (I'm only about 3000 miles away)

[birdrunner]

One other thing...
I think the belief that the tank must be full is a bit of an urban legend.  Air that condenses into water will simply sink to the bottom of the tank regardless of how much gas happens to be in the tank.  

Wrong,   less air in gas tank means less air to condense during temperature changes.  If the bike's in a heated area it's not an issue.  Keep the tank full.

Also,  I'd change oil/filter now, and just ride it in the summer.  With the crap gas you guys get in the states, draining the carbs is a good idea.  Center stand to unload tire is correct, though I think a pad under the from tire is overkill as there's so little weight on the tire.


That said,  all I did this year (and last) was park it.      me bad.

[Krellian]

That said,  all I did this year (and last) was park it.      me bad.

Me too, Bikes are tough!

[Andrew]

Me too, Bikes are tough!

I understand the bike cover, but whats all the white stuff??












 

[Bender]

I understand the bike cover, but whats all the white stuff??


It's rattle snake repellent....

It works great too.. never seen a snake crawling through it.  









 

[Meemuh]

I've heard of peeps putting sandwich bags over the ends of the pipes to keep Mickey out.  I think they just wrapped duct tape ON THE BAGS (no tape/pipe contact) tightly around the pipes to keep them secure.

[bluepoof]

I don't think rodents are going to be an issue.  I've never seen any evidence of them in our garage (including in the bikes that have been parked for, shall we say, longer than six months) and we have many outdoor neighborhood cats.  

[Meemuh]

Good - I hate mouseses.
They make me do girly dances.