02 Sprint ST 12,000-mile service

[farmer fred]

My wife just scheduled this for her Sprint and was told it takes about 6 hours of labor. I told her to call back and ask, but what exactly does it entail that takes so long?

[Capirex]

Here's a link for the maintenance check sheet.  The most time consuming item on it is probably the valve check which can't take more than a couple hours at most.

http://www.triumph.co.uk/media/sprint.pdf

[garry]

6 hours sounds about right to me based on having had THREE of those services done to my 2002 Sprint RS (sold this year with 43K miles on it). The valve check, throttle body sync, swapping out fork oil and brake fluid, swap coolant, new air cleaner and plugs. It's a big service. Since the valves are shim under bucket, they need to yank the cams to swap shims and that's takes more time than the previous gen Sprint which were shim over bucket.
 
EDIT: You may want to verify if the labor quote/estimate is for a valve clearance CHECK (only) or if it includes ADJUST (new shims). I believe they can check the clearances without removing the cams. FWIW, my Sprint RS needed a few shims all three times (and that seems common), so I would plan/budget for a valve adjustment, not just a check.
 
BTW, the Triumph fuel filter is crazy stupid expensive ($50+). Get a BMW fuel filter for a third the cost. It's the IDENTICAL part.

[dnlwthrn]

Since the valves are shim under bucket, they need to yank the cams to swap shims and that's takes more time than the previous gen Sprint which were shim over bucket.

IF they need to swap shims... I have a feeling they'll charge more if that's the case.  I'd get clarification from them on whether the 6 hrs includes "checking" or "checking AND adjusting" the valves.

I'm in the same boat on my '03, and am asking the same questions (well, in my head at least).

Dan

[garry]

IF they need to swap shims... I have a feeling they'll charge more if that's the case. I'd get clarification from them on whether the 6 hrs includes "checking" or "checking AND adjusting" the valves.
 
I'm in the same boat on my '03, and am asking the same questions (well, in my head at least).
 
Dan

Note my edited reply. I've never heard of a Triumph Sprint not needing a shim or two at a 12K service. That doesn't mean it hasn't happened. I've just never heard of it. I'd go in expecting to need shims.

[farmer fred]

I looked over the list, and knowing my dealer, there's no way they're changing fork oil and lubricating headstock bearings.  The bike's out of warranty, so I am going to ask them for a quote on adjusting the valves, replacing the fuel and air filters, synching the throttle bodies and checking for stored ECU error codes.  I'll take them the bike with the bodywork off.
 
We already change the oil and filter and coolant, and I can change fork oil and spark plugs.

[garry]

You aware you have to remove the forks to change the oil (no drain screws)? That can be a PITA. You should let them do the plugs since they've got the whole damn bike opened up to get to the engine. The plugs are right there. Why should you fight with the air box and stuff all over again?

[farmer fred]

You aware you have to remove the forks to change the oil (no drain screws)? That can be a PITA. You should let them do the plugs since they've got the whole damn bike opened up to get to the engine. The plugs are right there. Why should you fight with the air box and stuff all over again?

Yes I am aware about the forks.  No big deal as the bike has a centerstand.  I talked to the service guy and I agree about the plugs and they'll do em.

[Tar Snake]

If you've got time (and a service manual) the 12K service isn't that bad, knowing your (Fred's) history of working on a lot of bikes. It just takes a long time and there are certain things you can't do because you needs Triumph's magic F.I. code reader thingie.
 
However, when I do my Sprint I know:
 
A: The check engine light isn't on and hasn't been on recently, so there shouldn't be any codes stored.
 
B: After the throttle body sync I've generated codes because I've ran the bike without the airbox.
 
So after the service my check engine light is lit, but if everything's OK the light will go out after 4 successful rides from cold and after 50 successful starts the code is deleted.
 
Other than that it's straightforward mechanical work.

[sprint_st]

Note my edited reply. I've never heard of a Triumph Sprint not needing a shim or two at a 12K service. That doesn't mean it hasn't happened. I've just never heard of it. I'd go in expecting to need shims.

Actually, 02-04 ST's and RS's don't change much.  Mine didn't need any and I know lots of guys who didn't need them.  I do my own work, but I really didn't feel like popping the cams but I did measure the clearance.  Saves some bucks if you don't need the shims changed.

[stk0308]

Note my edited reply. I've never heard of a Triumph Sprint not needing a shim or two at a 12K service. That doesn't mean it hasn't happened. I've just never heard of it. I'd go in expecting to need shims.

Now you've heard of 2.  Mine didn't need any at the last 12k service(72k miles), and I believe it didn't need any at it's previous one(60k miles).

[pushr0d]

I had the dealer do only the valve check (mine needed no shims) and the throttle body sync.  He's straight, and charged me only the hour to get into and out of the top end.
 
+1 on the Triumph fuel filter ripoff.  Go to Triumphrat.net for the parts list.  You can get a Purolator filter for $2.40 at your local auto parts store.  You prbably do not need a new tank gasket.  It's big and rubber, and unless it was overtorqued, it should go again.
 
Changing the AF is a piece of cake, and most folks go K&N when the time comes.
 
Make sure you have the modded fuel connections.  There was a recall for the old ones, 'cause they'd fracture.
 
HTH, Steve

[sprint_st]

Let me explain something about the fuel connectors.  The plastic ones break but all had fuel cut offs built in so when you separated the line which was under pressure only a minimum amount of fuel dripped or sprayed.  The replacements are aluminum but don't have the cut offs so when you disconnect the line the pressure in the FI manifold blows gas out.  Also they only replace the male fittings and females will break too.  If you buy the Team Triumph or Great Bay kits or get the individual metal fittings they are all metal and they all have cut offs.  You can do it right or you can do it half ass like Triumph did.

IMO, you can do almost all of the 12k check yourself with a minmum amount of mechanical skills excepth the TB balancing and valves.  Those take a bit more skill but aren't rocket science.  If you let the shop just do those two items it will cut the price way down and like pushrOd said, if it doesn't require shims it's only about two hours labor cost.

[stk0308]

Let me explain something about the fuel connectors. The plastic ones break but all had fuel cut offs built in so when you separated the line which was under pressure only a minimum amount of fuel dripped or sprayed. The replacements are aluminum but don't have the cut offs so when you disconnect the line the pressure in the FI manifold blows gas out.

I found that it's actually the fuel weight in the tank that causes the blow out of the alu connectors.  Once you get both undone the flow pretty much stops.  But leave one plugged in and it'll just keep running fuel out of the disconnected one.  Alot more than what is trapped in the fuel rail.  Ask me how I know  
 
I do agree that the alu replacements without dry break is a disapointment.  The good news is that you shouldn't be whipping the tank off and on alot, so it's not going to be a major hassle.  It's not like having to drain the oil to change the front sprocket.