Ride To Alaska

[Scratch33]

We spent one day in Calgary, then proceeded on to Saskatoon.  As expected the land began flattening out and became less photogenic.  



Next day's ride was a long haul, nearly 500 miles to Winnipeg, where we arrived just in time for street protests and generally mild acts of civil disobediance by some First Nation activists.  

Thunder Bay was our subsequent destination, and the scenery got better around the lakes.   At one point on the highway as we came up behind & passed a Greyhound Bus hauling a cargo trailer, we were pelted with scraps of rubber.   Further down the road we we decided to stop at a dingey, run down little gas station for a pee break.  While we were there the Greyhound pulled in; we sought out the driver from the crowd of tired, bored-looking passengers and advised him to check his tires.  Somewhat reluctantly he produced a flashlight and crawled under the bus, then emerged with a frown and told us that one of his inside rear dual tires had pretty much disintegrated.   It being Canada Day, he stated that he and his passengers were probably going to be stuck there for a while.  Bummer.


   

[Redfox]

Wow! What in incredible trip.  You will always remember this one.  I am planning on making the pilgrimage to AK in 2008 and I'll be doing it on a VFR.  In your opinion does my bike stand a chance on the Dalton?

Many have ridden the Dalton on all types of bikes for sure.  I've tasted very light gravel on my VFR and with my very limited off paved road ability failed miserably. Dropping it could be expensive and rocks attacking the oil cooler could be a problem. While at times on the lower Dempster we very comfortably achieved hiway speeds, when the going got deep in gravel and freshly graded dirt, I really liked my Tigers plush long travel suspension, wide handlebars, and tractor like engine. They really helped a lot not only on the Dempster but also on places like the Top of the World Hiway. We both ran mostly street tires (Tourance) that were not confidence inspiring in soft stuff and would have been a problem later in the year during the rainy season with its thick mud. TKC's may have been a better choice. I guess it would be a matter of confidence and ability. Remember the Dalton up and back from Fairbanks is roughly a thousand miles of nothing but unsealed road. OTH I believe someone did ride round the world on an R1 so any thing is possible!

[Redfox]

As we were leaving Winnipeg several teachers were marching their class of very young school children down the street. All were carrying Canadian flags and one a sign saying I should honk if I love Canada. I couldn't resist.

The bus, heading from Vancouver to Toronto, was pretty full and the tiny rest stop was pretty uninviting. Given the long wait for a new tire or another bus it was probably a good idea that we split when we did. The poor driver no doubt had his hands full. Bummer fer sure!

The last time we went around Chicago I got stuck behind a big rig that started shedding sheets of drywall in a wild game of 70 MPH 52 card pick up. After a month with minimum traffic and almost zero slab I just didn't want to deal with big city traffic. So we decided to take a route through southern Ontario into New York and across PA and hopefully miss slabbing most of the way home. We got a great ferry ride and even better ride (except for ridiculously low speed limits) through scenic farmlands, stopping in Guelph(?) for the best Sushi of the trip. We also rode by the Sleemans Brewery, I wish we had Sleemans here... I sure miss it.  

[Stargzrgrl]

***BUMP***

A few of us are plotting and need a bit of inspiration.  

Really enjoyed reading this report you two!    

[Tobes]

What a dream trip.  Hope to ride Alaska someday.  Excellent report!!!  

[lakota]

Fabulous ride report.  I am very jealous.
Thanks for sharing.

Since we are practically neighbors maybe we can do a day trip sometime.

[ZZR Rob]

Scratch,
Just found this trip report, don't know how I missed it before. What a great trip and wonderful story telling. Pics were unbelievable Looks like You and Tam had the trip of a lifetime.   Nothing like Hyattsville eh.  

[towelie1098]

 Tam says as I passed behind him he 'cow kicked' backwards at me.  I didn't see that, I was concentrating on not going off the road.

You are one lucky bastard. Moose are the most dangerous animals in the great north woods and aren't afraid to kill people.

[birdrunner]

You are one lucky bastard. Moose are the most dangerous animals in the great north woods and aren't afraid to kill people.

Yup,  people died here last month when a tour bus either hit a moose and lost control, or lost control while dodging one.   They're the probably the most dangerous animal you could run into.

[zer0netgain]

A couple of questions.

1.  Do you need special tires for the roads up there?

2.  Could most any bike handle the roads you traveled?  I have a CBR1100XX sportbike w/touring gear that I'm thinking of doing a trip like this on.

3.  How was gas/lodging availability and what kind of prices were you finding?

[Scratch33]

1.  Do you need special tires for the roads up there?

We got by rather well on Metzler Tourances.  The only road I found very challenging was the Dempster - I'm not a dirt rider by nature; I might've liked a set of knobbier treads like the TKC's Redfox just recently shoed onto her Tiger.

2.  Could most any bike handle the roads you traveled?  I have a CBR1100XX sportbike w/touring gear that I'm thinking of doing a trip like this on.

With the possible exception of the Dempster in the condition we found it, I think an XX with a competent rider could.

3.  How was gas/lodging availability and what kind of prices were you finding?

Fuel was good.  We both carried the Kolpin Fuel Pack Jr. 1-1/4 gallon cans, but only had to use them a couple times.  If your XX uses Premium gas that might be iffy in the boonies - a little bottle of Octane boost is prolly a good idea.

Lodging was our biggest expense.  Averaged about $100 a day.

[Yankee Dog]

1.  Do you need special tires for the roads up there?

We got by rather well on Metzler Tourances.  The only road I found very challenging was the Dempster - I'm not a dirt rider by nature; I might've liked a set of knobbier treads like the TKC's Redfox just recently shoed onto her Tiger.................................. ..................

Speaking of the Dempster.  Where does the pavement end and gravel start? Can you get to the Artic Circle on pavement? I have been lead to believe the road doesnt really turn to poop until after that.  

yankee Dog

[zer0netgain]

1.  Do you need special tires for the roads up there?

We got by rather well on Metzler Tourances.  The only road I found very challenging was the Dempster - I'm not a dirt rider by nature; I might've liked a set of knobbier treads like the TKC's Redfox just recently shoed onto her Tiger.

 I run Pilot Road (sport-touring) and get about 9K on a new tire (rear), even more on a front.

2.  Could most any bike handle the roads you traveled?  I have a CBR1100XX sportbike w/touring gear that I'm thinking of doing a trip like this on.

With the possible exception of the Dempster in the condition we found it, I think an XX with a competent rider could.

I like to consider myself "competent."  

3.  How was gas/lodging availability and what kind of prices were you finding?

Fuel was good.  We both carried the Kolpin Fuel Pack Jr. 1-1/4 gallon cans, but only had to use them a couple times.  If your XX uses Premium gas that might be iffy in the boonies - a little bottle of Octane boost is prolly a good idea.

Lodging was our biggest expense.  Averaged about $100 a day.

The 'Bird gets about 185-200 miles per tank.  I typically burn regular or mid-grade on trips at the rate I go through a tank.  I normally camp, but I read what you thought about it.  On my last trip to Canada (Lake Louise, Alberta) camping was near-miserable.  Even with an air mattress and heater, I was half-frozen by morning w/ice on the tent and bike.  

[JimWilliamson]

Speaking of the Dempster.  Where does the pavement end and gravel start? Can you get to the Artic Circle on pavement? I have been lead to believe the road doesnt really turn to poop until after that. 

As of late 2005 you could not get to the Arctic Circle turnout on pavement. You're on pavement until (don't quote me here) until just after the intersection of 2/11 to the Manley Hot Springs. Then dirt for a bit then a perhaps 3 to 6 mile stretch of asphalt then dirt again. I believe there was asphalt on a decent stretch somewhere between Yukon River and Arctic Circle as well.

A lady at the Yukon River fuel stop said there were plans to pave the whole thing but she also commented that it was said often and never happens.

Pix here (street bike with street tires):
www.jimwilliamson.net/motorcycle/2005-09-us-n-canada/09-22/

[JimWilliamson]

If I'm right in choosing proper start-stop points on my map, the stretch from the 2/11 intersection to Arctic Circle is 94 miles. Included in that is perhaps ???20 / 30 / 40 miles??? of asphalt with the rest being dirt.

re-reading my trip report - it looks like the asphalt miles was 30.

[JimWilliamson]

Lodging - hostels are an option.

I'd recommend these
Whitehorse: Beez Kneez Backpackers (in town)
Fairbanks: Old F.E. Gold Camp, Chatanika AK (would go there in a second!!)

edit:
To locate hostels, there are several options, though I found this compact paper book to be the BEST resource:
http://www.hostelhandbook.com/

Buy the book as then you'll have it with you. A phone call the morning before the next stop is all that's needed. Internet access on the road may likely be spotty for online reservations though phone service is often available (even if you have to stop at a local business to use their phone).

[Scratch33]

Speaking of the Dempster.  Where does the pavement end and gravel start? Can you get to the Artic Circle on pavement? I have been lead to believe the road doesnt really turn to poop until after that.  

yankee Dog

IIRC the pavement ended right at the intersection of Route 2 (past the Dawson airport) and Route 5 (beginning of the Dempster), and stayed unpaved all the frikkin' way to just outside Inuvik Airport.     You're correct that the road is pretty manageable south of the Artic Circle sign, except for a brief stretch of fresh dirt about 20 klicks south of Eagle Plains that's prolly been tamed by now.

[rajflyboy]

Time to start planning the "Hawaii Trip"