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Topic: Not familiar with BMWs...need some advice!  (Read 4023 times)

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« Reply #20 on: December 11, 2006, 04:33:26 AM »



Get the shop manual.  It's worth it.


miles


I got a brand new Clymer FOR SALE.
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« Reply #20 on: December 11, 2006, 04:33:26 AM »

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cbsnbiker
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« Reply #21 on: December 11, 2006, 12:41:30 PM »

Hi caseylee, I don't know if you're still reading this thread.

You've gotten some good input. Here are few more thoughts.

First off, you haven't told us specifically which bike it is: R1100R, RS, RT, or GS? Price will depend in part on which model it is.

Second, does it have ABS? That also affects resale value and desireability.

Others have mentioned surging. Here's how to find out if this bike does it. Ride the bike for a while to get it all warmed up. Then, on a flat road, ride in first gear at about 3000 to 3500 RPM. That's roughly 30-35 MPH, IIRC. Try to hold a steady throttle. If the bike has a throttle lock (e.g. Throttlemeister), use it. If the bike just rides, that's best. If it surges, that's less than ideal. (That's what my '94 R1100RS would do.) If it bucks like a bronco, don't buy it.

If the bike surges, there are ways to reduce it, but (despite what def38 wrote), it cannot always be eliminated.

Have you made a decision yet? Let us know!

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« Reply #22 on: December 11, 2006, 12:46:00 PM »

if the bike has a surging issue (and yes, most of it can be removed with a good TBSync), it should show up in any gear in that 3-4K rpm range.
as previously mentioned, not a deal breaker, but some individual bikes were more difficult to tune out the surge than others. just something to be aware of. the R1100S seems to be the model least prone to surging, the RT was the most.
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« Reply #23 on: December 11, 2006, 01:39:24 PM »

And for $4,500 you can buy a lot of parts, tools, and shop manuals to fix it and still be waaaaay ahead.   Wink
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« Reply #24 on: December 11, 2006, 05:04:38 PM »


If the bike surges, there are ways to reduce it, but (despite what def38 wrote), it cannot always be eliminated.


I must differ with you.

A boxer in proper tune does not surge. Over the years, my 2001 GS has suffered from surging. Careful valve lash adjustments, precise ignition timing as well as correcting vacuum leaks in the intake track have eliminated ALL suring in my boxer. As miles have accumulated, TB sync has become almost unecessary. The last time I performed this adjustment was 11 months ago (~4000 miles) When I removed the throttle bodies for cleaning and servicing of the O-rings. TB sync plays a minor role in boxer performance and surging.

Some boxers may surge from a poorly operating lambda sensor and can be corrected by replacement of the sensor. However, this is rare.

Also, performing the zero = zero adjustment can cure the worst cases of surging. This adjustment is rarely necessary.

Some have reported that switching to Autolite spark plugs (single, conventional side ground electrode) has helped. I use Autolite 3923s in winter and 3922s (one heat range cooler) in summer. My fuel mileage increased and cold starting improved when I switched to the Autolites.

My GS runs smoothly with only moderate load at 2000 RPM in 6th gear, a good indication of correct fuel/air distribution and proper stoichiometry.
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« Reply #25 on: December 11, 2006, 09:47:10 PM »

I speak from direct experience with a '94 R1100RS. It had careful valve adjustments, ignition timing, TB sync, zero=zero, etc. It still surged--nowhere near as bad as other early oilheads, but it surged while I owned it, it still surged when I traded it in eight years ago, and I gather that it still surges to this day.  Rolleyes

Then again, surging was the least of that bike's problems. It was a shop queen.

My brother's R1150R, OTOH, does not surge.






I must differ with you.

A boxer in proper tune does not surge. Over the years, my 2001 GS has suffered from surging. Careful valve lash adjustments, precise ignition timing as well as correcting vacuum leaks in the intake track have eliminated ALL suring in my boxer. As miles have accumulated, TB sync has become almost unecessary. The last time I performed this adjustment was 11 months ago (~4000 miles) When I removed the throttle bodies for cleaning and servicing of the O-rings. TB sync plays a minor role in boxer performance and surging.

Some boxers may surge from a poorly operating lambda sensor and can be corrected by replacement of the sensor. However, this is rare.

Also, performing the zero = zero adjustment can cure the worst cases of surging. This adjustment is rarely necessary.

Some have reported that switching to Autolite spark plugs (single, conventional side ground electrode) has helped. I use Autolite 3923s in winter and 3922s (one heat range cooler) in summer. My fuel mileage increased and cold starting improved when I switched to the Autolites.

My GS runs smoothly with only moderate load at 2000 RPM in 6th gear, a good indication of correct fuel/air distribution and proper stoichiometry.
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« Reply #26 on: December 13, 2006, 10:40:25 AM »

Ride it.
100 miles one way can get triesome on a naked bike.
I used to have a r1100r...and never found good wind protection for it.
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« Reply #26 on: December 13, 2006, 10:40:25 AM »


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« Reply #27 on: January 03, 2007, 10:18:06 PM »

Sorry guys I've been outta the country for the past few weeks!  Anways thanks for all the great advice.  Went and checked the bike out a few days ago and it is a 2002 r1150 R not a 2001 and has 11k on the odometer.  The guy is good friends with the family so he is giving me a good deal and said he would hold the bike as long as I needed.  He doesn't have to sell it, he is just frustrated because he can't ride much anymore and hates seeing a bike sitting there not being riden!  Hopefully if the weather will ever clear up i'll take it out for a spin in the next few days and get a good shake down of the bike.  Don't know if it is the bike for me yet but hopefully it will be since it is such a good deal!
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« Reply #28 on: January 07, 2007, 06:47:56 PM »


I've been looking for a new-to-me bike for next riding season.  Looking to do some weekend excursion this summer and wanted something a little more sport-touring oriented (currently on a Kawasaki ZR7s).  I will also be commuting a pretty good bit next year (100 miles one way).  I have found a 2001 R1150 for sale locally with only 15k miles on the odometer.  The guy is just wanting to get rid of it due to not having time to ride and said I could have it for $4500.  Seems a bit cheap to me but everything seems to be in great condition besides a small rip in the seat.  What all should I look for when buying used on this model?  I haven't had a chance to give it a good going over yet but plan to in the next few days.  Just want to get some opinions from you guys......

Also another thing I am worried about is maintenance.  The closest BMW dealer around here is about a 4 hour ride for me.  How bad off do you think I would be on the maintenance end?  I'm mechanically savvy and have always done my own but I figured the BMW would be a little more than I can handle....
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cbsnbiker
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« Reply #29 on: January 07, 2007, 08:53:30 PM »


Sorry guys I've been outta the country for the past few weeks!  Anways thanks for all the great advice.  Went and checked the bike out a few days ago and it is a 2002 r1150 R not a 2001 and has 11k on the odometer.  The guy is good friends with the family so he is giving me a good deal and said he would hold the bike as long as I needed.  He doesn't have to sell it, he is just frustrated because he can't ride much anymore and hates seeing a bike sitting there not being riden!  Hopefully if the weather will ever clear up i'll take it out for a spin in the next few days and get a good shake down of the bike.  Don't know if it is the bike for me yet but hopefully it will be since it is such a good deal!


Well, best wishes with that potential new bike.

I hope you live somewhere that is receiving great weather. I know that I went on a fun group ride earlier today, in January, in upstate NY. This uncharacteristic weather is doing bad things to local ski resorts, but sure is making life fun for us riders.

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