Replacing the Spark Plugs on the SV640s

[uvakat]

I have a 2004 SV and was checking my owner's manual since I just passed 7500 miles. I was wondering if anybody knows if you have to replace the spark plugs every 7500 miles. It seems very early to me

[Sport]

I don't know why you'd change them at that interval unless you want to do it for the experience.  I changed the OE plugs on my Hayabusa at 14,000 miles and they looked great, just worn down a bit.  If its not running poorly I'd leave them in for awhile, maybe take a look at them at 10,000?

[uvakat]

I was just checking. I was looking at the owners manual and that's what the book says.  I'll probably do that and check them at 10,000 miles.

[highside]

My SV service manual indicates inspection of the plugs at 4000 miles and replacement at 7500. I don't see much reason not to stick with the factory interval.

[joe4702]

If you switch to Iridium-tipped plugs, you can extend the change interval to 15K miles.
You have to pull the plugs anyway to check the valve clearance every 15K, so its easier to just change them then.
Iridium plugs for the SV are about $6 each.

[Vee2Win]

I would at least pull them and check the wear and gap.  Also, the front one tends to get a bit rusty from water.  You might want to pull them just so they don't seize.  Remember to apply anti-sieze on the threads and some silicone grease on the boot...helps keep water from shorting the front plug.

By the way, remeber that this thing revs 2-3X the amount of a car for the same mileage, so 7500 is probably closer to like 15-20K miles on a car.  For copper plugs, that is about the standard service interval in a car.

[MStarmer]

I changed mine out at 5K on my SV1K with the irridiums figuring that would give me 2yrs worry free.  It's easy and cheap and I figured with the FI they aren't going to foul anytime soon.  Cheap insurance.

Change them cold and use anti-seize.  I always check them once after a week or two to make sure they are still tight.  

[whoaru99]

Change them cold and use anti-seize.

Yes, cold. As in overnight cold - goes for anything with aluminum heads. Also, a little anti-seize goes a long way and stay back a couple threads from the end with it.

[Sport]

In re:  "Also, a little anti-seize goes a long way and stay back a couple threads from the end with it."

I found a great way to apply the stuff using a model car paint brush, those little flat ones.  Use it to 'paint' it on the threads, goes on evenly and cleanly and doesn't get on your fingers.

[bedlamite]

I cleaned and checked the gap on my plugs at 16K, then put them back in. Still going strong at 24K. I'll probably change them at 30K. Anti-seize is mandatory.

[whoaru99]

Also,  bear in mind that using anti-sieze generally reduces the torque requirement on a fastener unless it's already factored into the number. If the OEM says to put anti-sieze on the threads, it's probably figured in. If not, very likely the torque requirement needs to be reduced - I've seen recommendations to reduce by 20% to 40% when using anti-seize.

I'll check what our Corporate standards are...

EDIT: The old standard said reduce torque by 30% for anti-seize. The new standard says "consult supplier"...

[LENSMAN]

Also,  bear in mind that using anti-sieze generally reduces the torque requirement on a fastener unless it's already factored into the number. If the OEM says to put anti-sieze on the threads, it's probably figured in. If not, very likely the torque requirement needs to be reduced - I've seen recommendations to reduce by 20% to 40% when using anti-seize.

I'll check what our Corporate standards are...

EDIT: The old standard said reduce torque by 30% for anti-seize. The new standard says "consult supplier"...

I work for a transportation company, I'll see what the mechanics says. I'm glad I checked this thread, good info.

[highside]

Also,  bear in mind that using anti-sieze generally reduces the torque requirement on a fastener unless it's already factored into the number. If the OEM says to put anti-sieze on the threads, it's probably figured in. If not, very likely the torque requirement needs to be reduced - I've seen recommendations to reduce by 20% to 40% when using anti-seize.

I'll check what our Corporate standards are...

EDIT: The old standard said reduce torque by 30% for anti-seize. The new standard says "consult supplier"...

It would seem to me that if anti-sieze is required by the same manual that specifies the torque value that no adjustment should be necessary.