headlight mod

[steve.m]

is there any harm in doing the headlight mod to get both lights fired up on high beam?  my concern is amperage on the circuit, hot wires, blown fuses and the like.  anyone qualified to give me a green light on this mini project?

[Brad1445]

I rode both my Firebolt 23,000 miles and my Ulysses 20,000 miles just placing the toggle switch in the middle where both lights were on, no bad effects that I know of.  And its free - FREE

[Squidbuzz]

Check out BadWeb and you'll see that this has been done with no problems.

[Bueller]

That mod is running your low beam through the accessories fuse.  Not recommended.

[steve.m]

the technique i was referring to is swapping the red and yellow wires to the headlight.  the hot and ground stay the same and the high and low swap.  you get only your low beam on low, but both low and high flipping the switch.  nothing to do with the accessory fuse.  discussed here with photos --> http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Do-It-Yourself-Buell-Mods/Headlight-Mod---Both-Lights-On-w-Hi-Beam

[delta one]

I have had this mod done for 2 seasons now with no ill effects

[Yankee Dog]

Mine is modded to keep the dim and bright on when the switch is in the dim position.  When I switch to brights a set of auxillery lights come on in addition to the normal lights.  Has been this way a year now with no issues.

the aux lights are run off a relay.  The dim bright thing is done with a jumper inside the headlight connector.  Get out your voltmeter, pull off your headlight cover and you will soon figure it out.  

Yankee Dog

[Bueller]

the technique i was referring to is swapping the red and yellow wires to the headlight.  the hot and ground stay the same and the high and low swap.  you get only your low beam on low, but both low and high flipping the switch.  nothing to do with the accessory fuse.  discussed here with photos --> http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Do-It-Yourself-Buell-Mods/Headlight-Mod---Both-Lights-On-w-Hi-Beam

I jut looked it up in the manual.  The yellow wire is low beam and the orange-white is accessories designed to run a 3 Watt bulb for the position light and not a 55 Watt headlight.  It puts the power through a different fuse and a different relay.  If you don't believe me pull out the Accessories fuse and see what doesn't work.

[steve.m]

on that note, the uly accessories fuse powers 2 12V sockets (dash and underseat) for accessories.  I'll bet heated gear has similar or higher wattage requirements.  just food for thought.  

[Bueller]

The heaters and power sockets run through the ancilliary fuse and relay and not the accessory fuse.

With that mod low beam is running through the ignition key switch whenever the ignition is on.  I think the headlight will also be on if the key is turned full left.

There is not much on that circuit and the 10 Amp fuse is big enough.  The wiring hasn't been designed for it though and the headlight may even be dimmer through that circuit than through the switch blocks.

It may work fine forever but it is good to know what these mods are actually doing.

[Brad1445]

I think the riders visibility goes up dramatically by firing up that second light.  THey are not very bright to start with, I used to feel Vulnerable on my little lightning with one lonely bulb at night looked like a flashlight.

Well worth the time, or to just set the switch in the middle  

[steve.m]

It may work fine forever but it is good to know what these mods are actually doing.

I agree, that's why i started the thread.  i don't think it'll have much of an effect on it, even if the wiring wasn't designed for it.  all the wiring is identical regardless of current load, so it's probably overkill on the accessory fuse anyway.  have to keep an eye on the insulation though, make sure there's no melting or discoloration near the relay.

[wbrisett]

FYI, I've been running this on my Ulysses for two years now with an HID installed. No issues at all.

Wayne

[delta one]

I had my first issue with my headlight mod recently, I apparently didn't push one of the pins in all the way and I lost my high beam until I figured out that it wasn't a bulb my switch housing or anything else.

[steve.m]

I had my first issue with my headlight mod recently, I apparently didn't push one of the pins in all the way and I lost my high beam until I figured out that it wasn't a bulb my switch housing or anything else.

i set mine in with a pair of needlenose and the same pin i used to push the wire out.

[Bueller]

I never liked the unbalanced look of having one light on low beam.  I've been working on it with Ecliptech for a couple of years now.  We will have a Twinlight driver adapted for Buells ready next week.  The Buell version is  fairly generic and will fit most bikes that run high beam as a separate bulb.  They are compliant for street use in Australia, the US and Canada at least.  

I will have a special offer for ST.N members.

This is my Firebolt on Low beam


There are 23 settings, plus a lot of other configuration that most people wouldn't use.
The main things for me are:
- Delayed headlight start.  Lets you start the bike without the lights on.  Better for the bulbs, better for the battery
- Automatically powers the high beam bulb at 63% if it detects that low beam has blown.
- Power through separate live and earth from the battery through a solid state relay.  With the bike idling, a single bulb is 20% brighter than going through the stock wiring.  When both lights are on (Firebolt high beam or High beam with the mod in this thread) each bulb outputs 60% more light.
- Daylight and Low light modes automatically controlled by a light sensor.
- Low light mode runs both bulbs full on high beam and on low beam the high beam runs at 46% which is the same apparent forward light as a running lamp, but because the bulb is centred (position light bulbs come through the bottom),  the light is spread evenly around the housing and looks “normal” like in the picture above.
- Daylight mode, to be compliant, high beam must modulate.  The amount of modulation can be chosen.  On an I4 the most discrete modulation is about the same as suspension travel when riding.  On my bike at idle you have to look at the bulb to see the modulation over the flicker from the vibration of the bike.  The daytime brightness is also selectable.
- The module is overload protected.  It will turn off if the current exceeds 10A.  It will try again 3 times, and if he current draw remains high it will turn off.
- It has a fuse near the battery.  This is good practice.  If there is a short between the unit and the battery the fuse prevents the battery from cooking and potentially catching fire.

The settings allow the bike to look like two headlights are normal without appearing excessively bright or distracting to oncoming traffic.

If you run a Philips +50% bulb in the high beam and a standard bulb in low beam the two bulbs appear the same colour when switched to low beam.

Ecliptech measure more forward focused light from the Twinlight running with a Philips +50% bulb than HID bulbs in reflectors designed for Halogen bulbs.

These are a straight plug fit on a Firebolt.  No cutting or crimping.  You take the high and low beam wires off the bulbs and plug them to the inputs on the Twinlight.  You take the outputs from the Twinlight and connect them to the bulbs.  There are two leads to connect to the battery and the instructions show how to route the wiring.  The controller unit itself is miniature and just cable ties into the wiring.

Lightnings and Ulys will need to do the mod in this thread and then connect the same as the Firebolt.  The Twinlight microprocessor is then powered by the low beam circuit.  The low beam input can also be spliced into any wire powered by the ignition, but doing this mod seems like a good way to work around cutters and tape.

[Squidbuzz]

Cool, let us know when this happens.  I would be interested in doing this with my Uly.

[Rogue]

Bueller, I haven't been keeping up with current events with your bike.  I know you modded your bike to use the Hella lights, which required some work to fit into your Firebolt.  I was wondering if you have such a kit available for sale?  Or, if you know of such a kit to replace the Firebolt headlights with aftermarket lights?

I am very interested in replacing my headlights at this time.  I am also very interested in doing the dual headlight-on conversion you described above.

[Bueller]

Rogue

I've got some time off in December and I'll have a crack at the Hellas  then.  I want to see if I can mount the plate further back and slightly lower and do a cutout so it is easier to get to the ECM.  If my idea works it won't be necessary to modify the stock headlight support bracket.

The Hellas are great.  I get better vision on high beam than my Chrysler Grand Voyager (I think you call it a Dodge Caravan) with the driving lights on.  The Chrysler is running 6 bulbs on high and works petty well.

Rogue and Squidbuzz

The Twinlight units arrive tomorrow and I'll put them on the site tonight.  The RRP is AU$150.  I'll be offering them to ST.N members for AU$125 until the end of November.  Basically people can PM me and I'll give them a discount code to order from the site.  Registered postage will be around AU$24 to Nth America and Europe.  I'll post up the offer tomorrow.    

Here is the doc on them:

Firebolt fitting guide - We are just waiting for someone to send us pics of the Low beam wire swap to add Lightning and Uly
http://www.ecliptech.com.au/downloads/twinlight/manuals/tl3_buell_xb_r_firebolt.pdf

Operating instructions. You'll only need a small part of the functionality
http://www.ecliptech.com.au/downloads/twinlight/twinlight_driver3_user_manual.pdf

[Squidbuzz]

One thing to remember about routing the cable forward on the Ulys is if the comfort kit is installed.  Not as easy to route a cable forward with the shield in place over the shock.  =)

I'll keep reading and let you know what I find that might be an issue for the Uly.

Also, have you posted this over on BadWeb?

[Rogue]

I will place my order this week.  I still have the Ecliptech rear LED lens and it rocks.  Really high quality.

The low beam headlight on my Firebolt is now completely dead due to burned out wiring inside.  So I am using the high beam, which is where the low beam should be anyway.

[Bueller]

I've put it up in the special offers section so it is ready to go.

The stock wiring to the headlight is thin and the insulation on the low beam wire gets brittle and cracks at about 25K.  This is maybe what's happened to yours Rogue.

This will fix all that, you just use the stock wiring to power the controller and to pass the high, low signal inputs.  It will work fine off the position light connection.  In fact that is the way it is best to run it on the Lightnings and the Ulys.

[Bueller]

One thing to remember about routing the cable forward on the Ulys is if the comfort kit is installed.  Not as easy to route a cable forward with the shield in place over the shock.  =)

I'll keep reading and let you know what I find that might be an issue for the Uly.

Also, have you posted this over on BadWeb?

Thanks Squidbuzz.  I hadn't thought of that.  We made need to do extra instructions for the fan shield.  I've played with them and they come out easy enough, and the main harness still has to go up through from the battery so I think it should be possible.

I'm just about to post it up on BadWeb

[Rogue]

Color me ignorant here Bueller.  Was wondering if you could either post or PM me the link to your website for ordering.  I thought I had bookmarked it but that was with my old computer.  Thanks.  

I'm  =  

 

[Bueller]

Hi Rogue

it is www.srwmoto.com.au or just www.srwmoto.com will do.

At 30K miles the original low beam refector on your Firebolt will be on the way out.  I'll see if I can do something with the Hella soon.

[Bueller]

I'm not going to be able to get all of the time off in December that I was expecting Rogue.

Check out this thread, and go through the archives

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/592520.html?1290029776

You could PM him to see if he is going to sell the brackets.

[Rogue]

Bueller, I did actually go through that thread before.

In any case, I tried.....again, to fix the wiring on the low beam and the SOB just won't stay connected.  After a week they loosen up and breakdown again.  It's driving me nuts!  It's gotten to the point where the only way to salvage them is to replace the whole wire with something stronger.  Either that or do the coversion like you did.  

I'm kind of "paralyzed" into inaction right now.  I'm torn between keeping the 'Bolt or replacing it.  There is no point in upgrading the lights if I replace the bike.  

I'm like this right now:  

[Squidbuzz]

My order has been placed.  

[Bueller]

Shouldn't be too much longer Squidbuzz.  There is a 48 hour holdup on all mail into the US for the moment because of increased security checks.  Parcels from the US seem to be slower as well.

This is low beam day and night


and low and high beams at night


Only a few days left for the forum offer

[Bueller]

In any case, I tried.....again, to fix the wiring on the low beam and the SOB just won't stay connected. After a week they loosen up and breakdown again. It's driving me nuts! It's gotten to the point where the only way to salvage them is to replace the whole wire with something stronger. Either that or do the coversion like you did.  

If the problem is where I think it is it should be a small harness to replace from the white connector to to the headlights.

The lighting harness is part no. YH401.02A8 for the US version.  It should only cost a few dollars.

You'd miss the Firebolt if you sold it.  The headlights are worth doing and you've done everything else by the looks of it.

For a while I was thinking about what other bike I would trade the Firebolt for.  There weren't any.  In the end when I was thinking of a next bike it was always going to be as well as the Firebolt, and before the offer on the 1125R the KTM RC8R was the front runner.

[Rogue]

Bueller, I know I will miss it.

I've ridden the 1125R extensively (a friend has one) and it is everything the Firebolt is only better in all aspects.  If Buell had continued I would probably be riding a Barracuda right now.  

Having said that, there are a few key ingredients that I enjoy so much about the Firebolt.  Lightweight, flickability, lots of torque at low to mid RPM, good wind protection, simplicity, and looks.  It is possible to get these from other makes, except I would have to give up simplicity and low maintenance.  

[Bueller]

The 1125R can't replace my Firebolt.  They are such different bikes.  

The handling on the 1125R is brilliant and rock solid.  The Firebolt can't can't match it, but at the same time the Firebolt is easier to ride expecially on gravel and in wet weather.  The 1125R is supposed to be lighter but the Firebolt feels lighter it is also narrower which helps make it more fun to throw around.  

The 1125R is too hot around town.  When the temps get up around 40C the coolant temp is 104C by the time I get home from work.  The heat burns the hairs off my legs.  I use the bikes to commute everyday but the 1125R is not a commuter.  If I only had one bike it couldn't be the 1125.

[Rogue]

I find the Firebolt is great for commuting and especially lane splitting (filtering).  But it too get's very hot in traffic.  When that rear fan kicks in it blows really hot air on your right thigh.  Unless you are wearing thick pants, it's OUCH!  Not enough to burn but it sure is hot!

[Bueller]

Since I got the 1125 I don't think the Firebolt gets hot at all.  In terms of heat they are not in the same league.  I always imagined a water-cooled bike would run cooler.  Boy was I wrong.

The 1125 is more serious to ride.  The Firebolt a little blip will push you through the traffic.  The 1125 the power is at higher revs when you open into a bit of power you're commited.  I have to concentrate a lot more than I do on the Firebolt.  I'm not saying its hard just sort of more serious.

The Firebolt is for commuting and touring and the 1125 is for track days and club rides.

[Rogue]

Bueller, I admire your love for the XB design.

It’s a fine motorcycle and can be adopted to a variety of roles.  However, I find that some of the Firebolt’s inherent designs does not make it a good sport-tourer.  The biggest gripe I have is lack of space for practical sized bags, especially on the faux tank.  The rear seat is too short for anything but small seat bags.  Then, there’s the limited range of 115-130 miles before reserve.  These two factors always rear their ugly heads each time I take the Firebolt out on a sport-tour, and I find it limiting.  I can adopt to packing light and small, but the range is a kind of a pain.  Often times I’ve wanted to explore further but at 100 miles, its time to start looking for a fuel station.  It seems like minor gripes and they are in a way.  But when you consider other alternatives for sport-touring that has many of the same capabilities of the Firebolt but with greater range and luggage capacity, you have to start wondering.  

[Bueller]

The 1125 has a bigger tank but its thirsty.  It depends on the system and tune I'm running but the XB can get more to an 11.7 litre reserve than the 1125's 16 litre reserve.  (At the moment the Firebolt as an open look tune and it's thirsty).

With the Micron, a tune and an the taller gearing I consistently got over 200 miles to a tank on the Firebolt - at the moment its 120.  The 1125 hits reserve at 265 km and I've sucked the 4 litre reserve in less than 50km across town.

I have the small Buell saddlebags and tail-pack, the large Buell saddlebags and tail pack, a Ventura rack with the big sack, the small sports rack pack and the Ventura seat pack.  I can pick and choose for touring.  I'm a bit of a credit card tourer so mostly I just use the two small Ventura packs.  They give me 25 litres.

The bike as quirks and I guess given a choice I would be back on my old Jota so I can understand you looking around.  I just can't find much that appeals.

[Rogue]

It's all good.  I'm only looking around still because I can't really decide.

In any case, I have the VFR for touring so I don't intend on using the Firebolt for that anymore.  

[Squidbuzz]

Alright, my Twinlight has arrived.  I just need to find a heated garage and some dry roads and this thing will be installed.  Hopefully within the next couple of weeks.

[Bueller]

Normally we're in Summer and I'd post some gloat about the weather.  Not much point at the moment.  We had a big storm come through today and more rain in the last couple of months than you'd hope for in a year.
I'm glad it's turned up.  I think you'll like it.

[delta one]

I find the Firebolt is great for commuting and especially lane splitting (filtering).  But it too get's very hot in traffic.  When that rear fan kicks in it blows really hot air on your right thigh.  Unless you are wearing thick pants, it's OUCH!  Not enough to burn but it sure is hot!

try a full sized right side scoop, since mine was installed my fan kicks in about 1/4 as often as before and runs for less time.

and I'm with Bueller on the XB bikes, I really wanted to like the 1125's especially the Cr but the bike ran so bloody hot and would buzz like crazy if I wanted to set up a gear for a full throttle swat down the road.
my lightning is WAY more fun than any of the 1125's I rode and for the most part I can hang with my buddies on their 1125R's in the corners on the street with the same tires.
right up until it starts getting straight......

I decided not to trade my lighting for a Cr because I love my XB9 way too much, the only thing an 1125 has that my 9 does not is crazy power. but I feel my nine is better in nearly every other way.
 YMMV

[Bueller]

I don't even feel that my 1125R has crazy power.  It doesn't pull on the arms like the Firebolt.  The best description I can think of is "light".  When I power on it feels like the bike has no weight and it's light in corners.  (It's also planted.)

One guy in the club went from a 250 to an 1125CR and the dealer was telling him he'd kill himself with all that power and he should get a Lightning.  I find the opposite.  I have to be moderately careful with the throttle on the 'bolt.  Even on bumps crossing railway lines if my hand moves a bit and puts on some throttle it throws me back and its away.

The 1125R just doesn't feel that way.  I have to open it out to about 8000 RPM to get a sensation of power, but when I do that I'm looking for power and it's not like its getting away from me.

My Firebolt makes 90 RWH on the dyno and my 1125R makes 127.  I've been meaning to graph them together.  The Firebolt has a system and the 1125R is stock at the moment, but at 6800 RPM the Firebolt has more HP and almost the same torque as the stock 1125R.  (With a Torquehammer on the 1125 it's got a bit more of both.)  Below 6800 the Firebolt is ahead and with a Micron its way ahead.  

If I could only have one of them I wouldn't know which one to choose.

[Rogue]

If I could only have one of them I wouldn't know which one to choose.

You have both so you don't have to.  

[Bueller]

You have both so you don't have to.  

I decided they are both safe.  I'm selling the house.

[Squidbuzz]

Ok, back to this.  I finally will be getting this installed tomorrow.  Been a long cold winter and I finally have been able to pry my mechanic off of his new girlfriend.  =)

I'll post more when it is install and working.

[Bueller]

Be keen to see what you think of it.  It's been pretty successful so far.

One setting you should do is the one that turns the high beam on at 50% brightness if it detects the low has blown.  This isn't factory default.  (You're supposed to consult the laws of the land before you set it.)

[Squidbuzz]

I can say this, WOW!  Houston we have lights!  

Didn't have time to play with the settings yesterday, but I did get to ride last night in the countryside in pretty much complete darkness.  BIG difference.

I will work today on modulation and the burned out low beam setting.

Also kinda odd to start the bike and not have the headlight be on.  But I'll get over that.

[Bueller]

Great you've got it running Squidbuzz

I use function 3 mode 29 for day and mode 20 for night.  You might find that mode 19 is a good at night for your bike.

The emergency high beam is setting 13.  You can disconnect your low beam wire to test that it is set correctly afterwards.

[Squidbuzz]

So there are different function 3's for day and night.  Ok, wasn't sure on that.  Are specific modes only for day light and low light or can they be used for either condition?

For now the day setting, since I'm assuming that configuring it outside during daylight means day light mode, I'm running mode 9.  Which seemed pretty obnoxious.  Which might be a good thing, since getting other drivers attention is what this is about.  So mode 29 only brings the highbeam up to 43% brightness for the blink.  I will need to experiment on that this weekend.  

For the night setting, again assuming I will need to be in darkness or will being in the garage work?  So exactly what does mode 20 do for me.  Does that dim everything down to 26% or what?  Kinda confused there because for night riding, I want as much light as possible for high beam and not sure if modulation is really needed in that case.

One thing my mechanic said stood out, the wire(s) from the battery coming forward could have been longer.  Might be because the Uly comfort kit doesn't allow for such a straight shot forward.  Otherwise the only other thing he commented on was getting the wires through the boot covers on the back of the headlight.  He said that was a challenge and he needed to be careful not to ripe the boot.

[Bueller]

The mode settings are for the high beam bulb when the bike is on low beam.  The low beam is always on at full brightness, and when you go to high beam both bulbs are at full brightness.  The high bulb on low beam is why its a twinlight.

The descriptions are the the manufacturer covering his tailbone.  The device places no restrictions on what you set.

The setting you are doing is based on the light sensor - like you are saying.  When you are in sunlight you are setting the daytime mode.  In the evening or indoors without too much light you are setting low light mode.  You can also try to cover the light sensor to get low light or use a torch to get daytime mode, but its more difficult.

Mode 9 with full modulation will make you stand out, but I've got a customer who was pulled over by a cop didn't know enough about the compliance standards to know that modulation is the legal way to run a high bulb on low beam during the day.  Mode 17 during the day or mode 26 would be my preference for your bike.  My Hella refectors are pretty efficient so I have to take a step down.  Setting mode 17 during the day and mode 19 at night iwill make your bike look like it is supposed to have both bulbs on low beam, and won't cause any issues for oncoming drivers.  If you think it does take the night mode to 20.  Set like that the bike looks normal, and your lights are bright enough for cars to see you better during the day.


Posted on: 16 April 2011, 15:48:39Just to show you the Twin Light effect.  (You probably saw them on the site when you ordered.)

This is low beam day and night.  The low bulb is the bright one.  (Firebolts have low and high the opposite way around to Ulys and Lightnings)


This is low and high at night.  I didn't bother setting the camera to get absolute light level comparisons.  It is automatic exposure, otherwise the low beam would look the same brightness in both pictures.



The only other Ulys who bought them don't have the comfort kit.  I've heard from a friend that he had problems wiring his GPS around the fan shroud.  The manufacturer has another harness for longer bikes, and we may have to look at a Uly version from what you say Squidbuzz - thanks for the tip.  The wires are hard to get through but they do go in.

I just noticed that'd I'd posted them up in this topic before.  Anyway it shows what the TL effect is.

[Squidbuzz]

So I have had the Twin Light running for the summer and things have been working really well with it.  The daytime modulator has been working great and seems to help.  The night time is awesome with this thing.  But the biggest surprise has been how it worked when the low beam bulb burned out the other night.  The system kicked in and worked like a champ.  The high beam toned down for low beam just like it said it would.  Of all the things that I have bought and installed this year, this one is probably the best.  =)

[Bueller]

Thanks very much for the feedback squidbuzz.  If you look back over 4 years of my posts this has been something I've wanted to get off the ground.  It has worked out better than expected.