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Topic: headlight mod  (Read 9945 times)

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steve.m
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« on: May 21, 2010, 12:25:08 PM »

is there any harm in doing the headlight mod to get both lights fired up on high beam?  my concern is amperage on the circuit, hot wires, blown fuses and the like.  anyone qualified to give me a green light on this mini project?
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Brad1445
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« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2010, 08:56:57 PM »

I rode both my Firebolt 23,000 miles and my Ulysses 20,000 miles just placing the toggle switch in the middle where both lights were on, no bad effects that I know of.  And its free - FREE
« Last Edit: May 22, 2010, 02:54:44 AM by Brad1445 » Logged

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« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2010, 10:52:09 PM »

Check out BadWeb and you'll see that this has been done with no problems.
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Todd
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« Reply #3 on: May 21, 2010, 11:24:13 PM »

That mod is running your low beam through the accessories fuse.  Not recommended.
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steve.m
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« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2010, 03:50:36 AM »

the technique i was referring to is swapping the red and yellow wires to the headlight.  the hot and ground stay the same and the high and low swap.  you get only your low beam on low, but both low and high flipping the switch.  nothing to do with the accessory fuse.  discussed here with photos --> http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Do-It-Yourself-Buell-Mods/Headlight-Mod---Both-Lights-On-w-Hi-Beam
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« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2010, 11:25:07 AM »

I have had this mod done for 2 seasons now with no ill effects
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« Reply #6 on: May 26, 2010, 02:40:33 PM »

Mine is modded to keep the dim and bright on when the switch is in the dim position.  When I switch to brights a set of auxillery lights come on in addition to the normal lights.  Has been this way a year now with no issues.

the aux lights are run off a relay.  The dim bright thing is done with a jumper inside the headlight connector.  Get out your voltmeter, pull off your headlight cover and you will soon figure it out.  

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Bueller
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« Reply #7 on: May 28, 2010, 11:14:40 AM »


the technique i was referring to is swapping the red and yellow wires to the headlight.  the hot and ground stay the same and the high and low swap.  you get only your low beam on low, but both low and high flipping the switch.  nothing to do with the accessory fuse.  discussed here with photos --> http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Do-It-Yourself-Buell-Mods/Headlight-Mod---Both-Lights-On-w-Hi-Beam


I jut looked it up in the manual.  The yellow wire is low beam and the orange-white is accessories designed to run a 3 Watt bulb for the position light and not a 55 Watt headlight.  It puts the power through a different fuse and a different relay.  If you don't believe me pull out the Accessories fuse and see what doesn't work.
« Last Edit: May 28, 2010, 11:18:18 AM by Bueller » Logged
steve.m
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« Reply #8 on: May 28, 2010, 12:43:00 PM »

on that note, the uly accessories fuse powers 2 12V sockets (dash and underseat) for accessories.  I'll bet heated gear has similar or higher wattage requirements.  just food for thought.  
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« Reply #9 on: May 29, 2010, 02:56:57 AM »

The heaters and power sockets run through the ancilliary fuse and relay and not the accessory fuse.

With that mod low beam is running through the ignition key switch whenever the ignition is on.  I think the headlight will also be on if the key is turned full left.

There is not much on that circuit and the 10 Amp fuse is big enough.  The wiring hasn't been designed for it though and the headlight may even be dimmer through that circuit than through the switch blocks.

It may work fine forever but it is good to know what these mods are actually doing.
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Brad1445
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« Reply #10 on: May 29, 2010, 04:53:59 AM »

I think the riders visibility goes up dramatically by firing up that second light.  THey are not very bright to start with, I used to feel Vulnerable on my little lightning with one lonely bulb at night looked like a flashlight.

Well worth the time, or to just set the switch in the middle  Smile
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« Reply #11 on: May 29, 2010, 10:00:50 AM »




It may work fine forever but it is good to know what these mods are actually doing.


I agree, that's why i started the thread.  i don't think it'll have much of an effect on it, even if the wiring wasn't designed for it.  all the wiring is identical regardless of current load, so it's probably overkill on the accessory fuse anyway.  have to keep an eye on the insulation though, make sure there's no melting or discoloration near the relay.
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« Reply #12 on: June 10, 2010, 09:10:11 AM »

FYI, I've been running this on my Ulysses for two years now with an HID installed. No issues at all.

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« Reply #13 on: July 01, 2010, 09:31:56 PM »

I had my first issue with my headlight mod recently, I apparently didn't push one of the pins in all the way and I lost my high beam until I figured out that it wasn't a bulb my switch housing or anything else.
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« Reply #14 on: July 02, 2010, 01:03:45 PM »


I had my first issue with my headlight mod recently, I apparently didn't push one of the pins in all the way and I lost my high beam until I figured out that it wasn't a bulb my switch housing or anything else.


i set mine in with a pair of needlenose and the same pin i used to push the wire out.
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« Reply #15 on: October 23, 2010, 01:11:57 AM »

I never liked the unbalanced look of having one light on low beam.  I've been working on it with Ecliptech for a couple of years now.  We will have a Twinlight driver adapted for Buells ready next week.  The Buell version is  fairly generic and will fit most bikes that run high beam as a separate bulb.  They are compliant for street use in Australia, the US and Canada at least.  

I will have a special offer for ST.N members.

This is my Firebolt on Low beam


There are 23 settings, plus a lot of other configuration that most people wouldn't use.
The main things for me are:
- Delayed headlight start.  Lets you start the bike without the lights on.  Better for the bulbs, better for the battery
- Automatically powers the high beam bulb at 63% if it detects that low beam has blown.
- Power through separate live and earth from the battery through a solid state relay.  With the bike idling, a single bulb is 20% brighter than going through the stock wiring.  When both lights are on (Firebolt high beam or High beam with the mod in this thread) each bulb outputs 60% more light.
- Daylight and Low light modes automatically controlled by a light sensor.
- Low light mode runs both bulbs full on high beam and on low beam the high beam runs at 46% which is the same apparent forward light as a running lamp, but because the bulb is centred (position light bulbs come through the bottom),  the light is spread evenly around the housing and looks “normal” like in the picture above.
- Daylight mode, to be compliant, high beam must modulate.  The amount of modulation can be chosen.  On an I4 the most discrete modulation is about the same as suspension travel when riding.  On my bike at idle you have to look at the bulb to see the modulation over the flicker from the vibration of the bike.  The daytime brightness is also selectable.
- The module is overload protected.  It will turn off if the current exceeds 10A.  It will try again 3 times, and if he current draw remains high it will turn off.
- It has a fuse near the battery.  This is good practice.  If there is a short between the unit and the battery the fuse prevents the battery from cooking and potentially catching fire.

The settings allow the bike to look like two headlights are normal without appearing excessively bright or distracting to oncoming traffic.

If you run a Philips +50% bulb in the high beam and a standard bulb in low beam the two bulbs appear the same colour when switched to low beam.

Ecliptech measure more forward focused light from the Twinlight running with a Philips +50% bulb than HID bulbs in reflectors designed for Halogen bulbs.

These are a straight plug fit on a Firebolt.  No cutting or crimping.  You take the high and low beam wires off the bulbs and plug them to the inputs on the Twinlight.  You take the outputs from the Twinlight and connect them to the bulbs.  There are two leads to connect to the battery and the instructions show how to route the wiring.  The controller unit itself is miniature and just cable ties into the wiring.

Lightnings and Ulys will need to do the mod in this thread and then connect the same as the Firebolt.  The Twinlight microprocessor is then powered by the low beam circuit.  The low beam input can also be spliced into any wire powered by the ignition, but doing this mod seems like a good way to work around cutters and tape.
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Squidbuzz
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« Reply #16 on: October 24, 2010, 05:44:41 PM »

Cool, let us know when this happens.  I would be interested in doing this with my Uly.
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Todd
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« Reply #17 on: October 25, 2010, 01:20:33 PM »

Bueller, I haven't been keeping up with current events with your bike.  I know you modded your bike to use the Hella lights, which required some work to fit into your Firebolt.  I was wondering if you have such a kit available for sale?  Or, if you know of such a kit to replace the Firebolt headlights with aftermarket lights?

I am very interested in replacing my headlights at this time.  I am also very interested in doing the dual headlight-on conversion you described above.
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Rogue
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« Reply #18 on: October 26, 2010, 01:05:56 AM »

Rogue

I've got some time off in December and I'll have a crack at the Hellas  then.  I want to see if I can mount the plate further back and slightly lower and do a cutout so it is easier to get to the ECM.  If my idea works it won't be necessary to modify the stock headlight support bracket.

The Hellas are great.  I get better vision on high beam than my Chrysler Grand Voyager (I think you call it a Dodge Caravan) with the driving lights on.  The Chrysler is running 6 bulbs on high and works petty well.

Rogue and Squidbuzz

The Twinlight units arrive tomorrow and I'll put them on the site tonight.  The RRP is AU$150.  I'll be offering them to ST.N members for AU$125 until the end of November.  Basically people can PM me and I'll give them a discount code to order from the site.  Registered postage will be around AU$24 to Nth America and Europe.  I'll post up the offer tomorrow.    

Here is the doc on them:

Firebolt fitting guide - We are just waiting for someone to send us pics of the Low beam wire swap to add Lightning and Uly
http://www.ecliptech.com.au/downloads/twinlight/manuals/tl3_buell_xb_r_firebolt.pdf

Operating instructions. You'll only need a small part of the functionality
http://www.ecliptech.com.au/downloads/twinlight/twinlight_driver3_user_manual.pdf


« Last Edit: October 26, 2010, 01:18:34 AM by Bueller » Logged
Squidbuzz
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« Reply #19 on: October 26, 2010, 05:34:16 PM »

One thing to remember about routing the cable forward on the Ulys is if the comfort kit is installed.  Not as easy to route a cable forward with the shield in place over the shock.  =)

I'll keep reading and let you know what I find that might be an issue for the Uly.

Also, have you posted this over on BadWeb?
« Last Edit: October 26, 2010, 05:40:57 PM by Squidbuzz » Logged

Todd
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