The West - 2nd time

[notarian]

Sometimes you gotta love airplanes. Tuesday was riding Scotland’s Aberdeenshire lowland / highlands, Wed was a flight to California and Thursday was riding the Santa Cruz Mountains – both riding days in brilliant sunshine.

The plan is a ride with daughter Chere' for a week south from Los Gatos and the southern Sierras starting in Bodfish and working our way north to Volcano. After which Chere' will ride back to Los Gatos and I'll go to Sacramento and hook up with Demenshea (Donna) for a 3 week, 6,000 mile ride to Jasper, Alberta via Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Alberta, BC, Washington, Oregon and back to Los Gatos (Sac for Donna).

Tuesday. Ducati 1098S, Aberdeen to Strathdon, Scotland – the back way.

Joe wanted to visit a pal in Strathdon that he’d not seen for a year. It’s been great riding with Joe over the years as he used to live in Strathdon and knows every paved, dirt and trail in that part of the Highlands.

We took some outstanding back roads between the Dee and Don rivers. Orson and I were on or near some of these for our ride to the west coast and again last month for a ‘Castle’ day.

It’s all different and glorious when the sun is shining.

Cattle country with the highlands in the distance


River Don overlook at Strathdon




Morning coffee stop with Simon. Specialising in leather cases and superb workmanship.




Shop and house




Dirt track Guzzi






The Sentinel – Our motorcyclist guardian of Aberdeenshire roads. In 1914 two brothers were riding and one was killed in an accident. The surviving brother placed a memorial at the location. It’s a place we always stop to give our respects to an ancient motorbiker.

[notarian]

Thursday. KTM 950SM, Bear Creek – Big Basin – Black Rd, California

Time to reacquaint myself to the SM and a little tune up ride prior to Chere’ and I taking off for a week riding the Sierras before meeting Demenshea in Sacramento = nothing better than notching up a couple hundred miles in the Santa Cruz Mountains.

Bear Creek Road (Boulder Creek to Los Gatos) is my favourite SC mountain road and as of last year the top of the west section is brand new tarmac adding extra goodness to an already good road surface.






For some reason people think of Big Basin Redwoods as being smaller cousins from those along the Avenue of the Giants. But reality is that Big Basin’s redwoods are equally Giants. I know this first hand from having climbed them in Big Basin in 1969 topping and trimming out 200 – 300 foot tall redwoods.




Climbing out of Big Basin there’s more fresh and ultra-smooth tarmac


Once up onto the ridge, you can see just how forested the SC mountains are and why it became a logging paradise. Way off in the distance is Monterey Bay.


Black Road and although it isn’t all as smooth as this, it’s a mighty fine road.


Chere' and I will be off in a couple of days.

[Blunder]

Ahhhh, the Santa Cruz mountains, the place where I cut my riding teeth. There be some secret roads there and I'm not telling. Those of you that know, well, you know, keep a lid on it.

Thanks for the pics.  

[FJR-UK]

Lucky beggar! If you get a chance, check out this place in Pescadero:

http://www.duartestavern.com/

[notarian]

Lucky beggar! If you get a chance, check out this place in Pescadero:

http://www.duartestavern.com/

Green Chilli Soup!

[BwanaDik]

Your ride reports are great!  Keep them coming  

[Orson]

Scotland and Northern California?  

you retired folks are startin' to piss me off  

 

[viffergyrl]

Scotland and Northern California?  

you retired folks are startin' to piss me off  

 

 

[veefer800canuck]

Jasper, that's my backyard. 3 hours from my place.

If you get a chance, take a nip out to Miette Hot Springs, which is not far from Jasper. Bring your Speedo!

The road up to the hot springs is fairly entertaining, just watch out for Elk and tourists.




View Larger Map

[notarian]

I was chuffed to bits that Chere’ was taking a week holiday to ride with Dad. Chick, her brother Steve and his pal, Steve2, would do Sunday as far as King City. Chick would try for Friday off work and join us Thursday night for a couple days of riding near Sonora.

Hooking up with the Steve’s


Hwy 25 out of Holister


Followed by Lake Nacimiento, Chimney Rock, Vineyard, Hwy 229 and 58 into Taft (HOT = 114F)






 





114F


Chere' strafing Bodfish/Caliente


Climbing out of the Valley




100 Giants


Wrong turn and found ourselves in Deliverance Land


It was nice tho

[viffergyrl]

Taft. 114 degrees Fahrenheit. What a god-forsaken place. I can say that - I grew up there.  

But oil paid the bills.  

Great report and pictures - looking forward to the rest! Plus the Canadian trip with Donna.    

[veefer800canuck]

Holy crap, at that temp, the tar snakes would be real squiggly!!!

[notarian]

I knew I’d have to replace the rear tyre before setting off with Donna but thought it would last until Sacramento (6 days later). Even Werkstratt thought it would go another 1000 miles. Wrong = 2 days later it was well into the wear bars and I bought a rear in Visalia. This put us off course a tad, meaning we would bypass the ride into King’s Canyon. Just as well as a mountain squall blew in for an hour as we arrived at the King’s Canyon tourist centre. We spent an hour under the bus stop waiting for it to abate and finally dashed for the café.

The day before we passed Camp Nelson on 190 and the heavens opened up then too but after about 8 miles we were out of it and racing like idiots down a magnificent section of road into Springville. 190 = what a road!

Chere’ hadn’t been to Yosemite in two decades and fancied seeing it with all the high water crashing down the many falls. Yes, it was crowded but worth it.







More Yosemite




Two nights in Sonora and a big loop out to Cherry Lake via Cottonwood Rd, Cherry Lake Road (very nice tarmac), Ward’s Ferry.






Chick arrived Sonora that evening and the following day was spent riding Sonora, Monitor and Ebetts Passes and over Sheep Ranch to Volcano for the night.








Volcano Inn B&B

[veefer800canuck]

Oooh, if you like falls, and you're heading to Jasper, check out Takkakaw falls near Field BC. Emerald lake is also cool.

You can eat at the Truffle Pigs Bistro in Field, or the Emerald Lake Lodge.


View Larger Map

[Skee]

I realize that roads over there are narrow, but that shot kinda takes the cake.  

Thanks for sharing.  You've inspired me with a goal; a Ducati in retirement.

[notarian]

Chick and Chere’ headed home and I rode a half day with them on some terrific roads as far as Knights Ferry and the covered bridge. Then backtracked up O’Byrnes Ferry and Pool Station Roads and onto Gary and Donna’s in Sacramento.

Pardee Dam




Knights Ferry




The routes


View Directions to Taft in a larger map


View Directions to Springville, CA, United States in a larger map


View Directions to Auberry, CA, USA in a larger map


View Directions to Sonora, CA, USA in a larger map


View Directions to Sonora, CA, USA in a larger map


View Directions to Volcano, CA, United States in a larger map


View Volcano to Knights Ferry in a larger map

[1KPerDay]

Wow.  

[notarian]

Taft. 114 degrees Fahrenheit. What a god-forsaken place. I can say that - I grew up there.  

Too right, but Taft is the stop along our route to get to Bodfish/Caliente Road. The motel had a cold water pool and very refreshing. There's also a Thia restaurant in Taft that after 57 (or there about) trip advisor reviews is a 5 star! Closed on Sundays - wouldn't you know it, but there's a Mex next door to the motel. Must have rolled in around 5-6pm which is a good run from Los Gatos beginning at 8:30 and a stop at Steve's in Hollister for an hour.

[notarian]

Jasper, that's my backyard. 3 hours from my place.

If you get a chance, take a nip out to Miette Hot Springs, which is not far from Jasper. Bring your Speedo!

The road up to the hot springs is fairly entertaining, just watch out for Elk and tourists.




View Larger Map

Great suggestion and I know this now first hand. I'm a little behind in my reporting = Stayed at the Miette Hot Springs and the road to it is by far the best pure motorbike road we took in the first few days in Canada.

[viffergyrl]

Too right, but Taft is the stop along our route to get to Bodfish/Caliente Road. The motel had a cold water pool and very refreshing. There's also a Thia restaurant in Taft that after 57 (or there about) trip advisor reviews is a 5 star! Closed on Sundays - wouldn't you know it, but there's a Mex next door to the motel. Must have rolled in around 5-6pm which is a good run from Los Gatos beginning at 8:30 and a stop at Steve's in Hollister for an hour.

Well I can safely say there was no Thai restaurant prior to 1972 in Taft.   Post up a review and address if you don't mind please.   Me wee small mother abides in Bakersfield so when I visit on the bike... well I take the scenic route (aka 33, Lockwood Valley, Cerro 'NoArreste', 166/33... well you know the drill....)

[notarian]

Asian Experience, Taft, Ca

http://www.asianexp.us/

[CanadianBird]

When riding in BC, Washington and Northern California, check out www.destinationhighways.com

[birdrunner]

When riding in BC, Washington and Northern California, check out www.destinationhighways.com

Actually,  if you get a chance, check out some of his other reports.   I think Notarian could write Destination Highways BC, Washington, Idaho, Oregon, Utah, California, Scotland, England, Wales, Ireland, Portugal, Spain, Italy, France, Swiss, Austria,  ......

I've met Notarian, and he's a great guy, with a good taste for whiskey,  but I hate him.   (100% jealousy btw)

[viffergyrl]

Asian Experience, Taft, Ca

http://www.asianexp.us/

Oh that does look good! Thanks!

[veefer800canuck]

Great suggestion and I know this now first hand. I'm a little behind in my reporting = Stayed at the Miette Hot Springs and the road to it is by far the best pure motorbike road we took in the first few days in Canada.

Oh splendid then. I'll shut up now and let you get on with your report.

[notarian]

Arrived Gary and Donna’s on Saturday afternoon. Donna fixed a fine supper and the three of us acquainted in person for the first time over a bottle of Maker’s and beer. Although I had bought a rear tyre in Visalia that was more than due, the front tyre was in pretty good shape and seemed to be long wearing, but I wasn’t really happy with the feedback from it and wanted to change it too prior to leaving Sacramento. Being Sunday there was only one shop that said they would open for me – I phoned the chap from Scotland to be sure.

So, Saturday night I phoned him and he’d arrange to either be at the shop himself or have one of his mechanics there at noon. I bought a front at Cycle Gear, bungied it to the top box and was at his shop at 11:50. At 1:30 and no one arriving and several phone calls that were not answered, I though bugger this guy – The ride to Idaho is a straight shot and no need to start wearing out a new front on bugger all twisty roads. I’ll have it mounted in Boise.

Demenshea about ready to strike out – tyre strapped to my back


First day would be Lakeview, Oregon and wanted to do 49 out of Grass Valley to sort of Susanville as I’d never been farther up 49 than San Juan. Donna led the way out of Sac, then I did for awhile on 49, then let Donna back into the lead to get a handle on how she rode. After about 20-30 minutes of hanging back 50-60’ I knew I’d be comfortable with her and moved up closer on her right (20-30’) and we synced through the twisties.

49 is a good road once 20 miles past Nevada City and the traffic thins considerably. 139 north is scenic-ish but dull and 395 – well, that’s one huge yawn and hot (100F+).

Lakeview to Boise is another mighty yawn, but we knew the ride wouldn’t really begin until after Boise and a north turn onto 21 for Stanley, Challis and Salmon. No photos necessary.

Donna takes pics on the fly and I don’t (yet) and since she is so good at photos it meant a whole lot less number of stops, but limits the number of photos I have to offer. Donna will chime in soon with her pics and take on the ride.

I hadn’t been up 21 to Salmon since 1970 when my folks lived in Challis and was very much looking forward to revisiting the road and the area.

Bizzareness in Idaho City




Donna on 21


Sawtooths in the distance


Outside Lower Stanley


Salmon River


The Auld Homestead


Night in Salmon, ID and a fair meal at the local brewery – beer went down a treat. Next day would be a hightailing to Red Lodge, Montana. It wasn’t bad until meeting I-90 in Butte and by Livingston (120 miles) we were done with the interstate and rode south into Yellowstone to connect with the road to Cooke City and onto Red Lodge.

In Yellowstone I made the first of two screw ups and missed the turning to Cooke City. I was looking at the Roosevelt Something or Other on the right and completely missed the left turn out of the park. I reached an area that I’d been to last year and knew I was considerably off base = 45 minutes later I rejoined Donna at the turning.

Once out of the park and on the right road we passed by the turning for Chief Joseph’s Scenic Byway and headed up the Beartooth.

Chief Joe follows some of the bottom of the distant butte


Beartooth




The miniscule white speck is Donna coming out of the turn = you’ll need your specks

At Beartooth summit, one crosses from Wyoming into Montana and the speed limit sign reads 70 mph which is on the far side of silly considering the number of hairpin switchbacks as even attempting that speed would have Casey Stoner plunging to his death let alone lesser humans.


I was minding my own business, cruising serenely at 70 until the 60 mph posted 2 miles outside Red Lodge where I rolled off the throttle to 60. There were 2 cars approaching, one an ominous black squatty thing that always resembles a cop. As I slowed to the approaching speed limit, the squatty black thingy switched on the blue lights, pulled to the side to let the other car pass and completed a u-turn to come in behind me about 1/8 of a mile behind. I kept to the speed limit and he very slowly caught me.

Pulling over and helmet off, the officer approached asking if I knew what speed I was travelling.

“70 mph”

“Actually you were doing 73”

Stunned, I replied, “You mean you are stopping me for doing 3 mph over the speed limit?”

Where upon he informed me that the limit was 60.

I told him I reduced my speed before the sign and that he’d made the decision to stop me before I’d broken any speed law. That I’d read the speed limit at the top of the big hill (Beartooth) and it was 70 and never saw a change in speed afterwards. He told me that the opposite direction lane speed was 70, but my lane was 60. Go figure!

He said there were at least two reduced to 60 between the pass and he picked me up and the last one was 3 miles back.

So, it was my first ticket in almost 40 years of riding around the world = he wrote it for 70 in a 60, said it would be $20 and could pay it at the courthouse.

Okay, $20 is nothing in today’s world, so I paid it the following morning and set out to ride Beartooth again, where upon both Donna and I read every sign for 10 miles and not one was a speed limit sign. After 10 miles the road demanded more concentration and I stopped looking in the mirror at every sign. The point is, perhaps there is a 60 mph somewhere on the road well after the summit but that there was no change in speed limit within 10 miles let alone the 3 miles the officer said was there.
Whether he got it right or wrong it still doesn’t make any sense that one side of a two lane road is 60 mph and other is 70. Oh, well…

I’d booked the Beartooth Hideaway Inn from Scotland with the manager Terry, whom I met last year and really enjoyed getting to know her. She had told me that I’d pick one hell of a weekend to stay with a massive Harley event named the Iron Horse Rodeo. Oh boy, I could hardly wait!

In the short interim between booking and arriving, the inn had been sold and Terry made redundant, so she was no longer working there after a decade of running a mighty fine establishment. Disapointment.

However, the Harley gang were a treat in watcher mode and met a few very genuine people riders.


Two nights in Red Lodge gave us the opportunity to ride Beartooth and Chief Joe loop. Although Chief Joe was tar snaked to death last fall it is still a visual treat but not so much the rider’s road it was previously.






There’s petrol at an RV camp at the north end of Chief Joe and the only petrol between Cody and Red Lodge. There’s a store, toilet, petrol pump and a sofa seating area outback beside the river. I took an identical pic of it last year near sunset and now again near noon.


Partied until almost 2am – mistake – as we didn’t get out of Red Lodge until nearly 11am and with Kalispell out destination and being probably our longest distance ride I knew it was dodgy as to whether we’d make it. I’d sussed out possible accommodations in Seeley Lake prior to the journey in case we needed to stay there instead. Sure enough, with the late start we only made Seeley Lake, 100 miles south of Kalispell.

We arrived in a minor rain storm to find there was a damn wedding on (foolish people!) and both motels full up. A suggestion was the Rich Ranch (Dude Ranch) about 10 miles back south then 5 miles up a dirt track. Sun going down, rain…not happy.

Long and short is that we found it and what a pleasure. We’d stopped at the market in Seeley to buy some cheese/meat/bread/mayo/Makers = set for the night. Bikes were trashed in mud, headlight nonexistent shineable, no frigging daylight, visor up and the front tyre throwing up mud into my eyes…but safe, sound and very snug in a cozy cabin for $100.

Next morning was superb, the rain had passed and the countryside shrouded in foggy mist waiting to be burned off. Hot coffee, a few pics, load the bikes and off for Canada via 2 very special roads.







McKillop Creek and the west side of Libby Dam. McKillop has new, fresh tarmac and the ride up the west side of Koocanusa has everything a biker could ask for. Stopped in Kalispell for a bite to eat and wash the bikes, then off to Canada.

McKillop Creek


Libby Dam and Koocanusa


For the run up Lake Koocanusa I let Donna have a shot at the KTM. For someone who finds the Bandit tall, the KTM is like a motorcycle Wilt Chamberlain. She just managed to get two toenails on the ground. Although a bit daunting, Donna gave it a go and found the SM a hoot and a half. Where the Bandit can wallow somewhat momentarily when the pavement transitions and leaned over, the KTM suspension absorbs all smoothly without fuss and tracks right on line. Of course the Bandit engine is superbly smooth while the big twin is a vibrator.

Stocking up on scotch at the border duty free pulled in beside this immaculate ’59 T-bird




The border crossing was a piece of piss this time for Donna and we were back on schedule – arriving Coleman at 5:30pm. Where we were told by a chap on a Connie that the road I wanted to take to Canmore/Banff was gravel for 60 miles! No thanks, so we took 22 to 40 to bypass the gravel. It was on this route that the goats were eating the pavement (actually they were after the salt) and if we thought the scenery was good so far, this was the start of something spectacular.




I needed another rear tyre and Calgary had one at Redline Motors so Donna had a day off and went into Calgary for it. Not bad for Canada at $229 mounted and Canada is a very expensive place.

Destination Jasper and a ride through the town of Banff confirmed my suspicions that what was once an unspoilt mountain village steeped in grandeur has evolved into a commercial nightmare.

However, Banff does have rather nice digs at this place


The road from Banff to Jasper is the Icefield Parkway and like nature’s greatest theme park. As visually stunning as the Alps or more so, the nature of the road is completely different. Instead of missing some views due to concentrating on Alp hairpins, the Parkway is basically a straight shot for 180 miles with towering mountain ridges and peaks on both sides.














Bambi all grown up


Lake Louise is off the Parkway a few miles


Miette Hot Springs Resort – north of Jasper where Donna took in the baths and I, the bar. Food’s pretty good too and the road up to the hot springs is the best motorbiking road we were on since entering Canada.



View Directions to Jasper, 607 Connaught Dr, Jasper, AB T0E 1E0, Canada (Miette Hot Springs Resort) in a larger map

[birdrunner]

You sure managed to hit some pretty country.   Pleased that you enjoyed the parkway as it is IMHO one of the most beautiful drives anywhere  ... but I'm biased.

[Rincewind]

STUNNING PICS!    

[demenshea]

I guess this is where I'll jump in and throw up some of my photos.

This was an amazing journey and I have been up to Canada twice before, but I seemed to have missed some of the prettiest country.  I will say, that everyone we met up there was awesome and very friendly and we met some pretty crazy people.  I have been posting to my blog, so you can see the entire photo array, if desired beginning http://demenshea.com/blog/2011/07/18/the-great-canada-adventure/.

Yellowstone and one of my favorite shots even though it's a bit soft, I love the conveyed mood.


Between Coleman and Canmore


With Bill leading, it was pretty easy to get some scenic rider shots.


On the Icefield Parkway


Columbia Glacier


Athabasca Falls


The view from Miette Hot Springs


Between Miette and Jasper


I couldn't get over the color of the glacier lakes...amazing


The town of Field, hands down one of the prettiest tiny towns on Canada 1


My other favorite photo of Bill, taken along the route to the ferry at Shelter Bay.


Ok...i'll let Bill continue to lead! 

[birdrunner]

Ok, so now we know why Demenshea followed Bill,  so she could take those awesome photos.



I'd like to add for those that haven't been there.  Riding the Banff Jasper Parkway BOTH directions is certainly worthwhile.  Especially since as the mountains run North/South, the light at different times give entirely different "Moods".

[veefer800canuck]

Didja jump cannonball style into the cold pool at Miette?

It's something like 50' F which is a real shocker after getting out of the hot pool at around 103 or so!!!  

[notarian]

Didja jump cannonball style into the cold pool at Miette?

It's something like 50' F which is a real shocker after getting out of the hot pool at around 103 or so!!!  

Donna may have cannonballed - I had a canopenner at the bar.

[demenshea]

Donna may have cannonballed - I had a canopenner at the bar.

Uh, no....i can't do the cold water...too much like Lake Tahoe.  I'm content in the 104 degrees until my face melts off.   

[notarian]

Riding with a buddy means more time spent enjoying the evenings off the bike and less time writing an RR = I'm way behind on the report, but working on it.

We’d not stopped for petrol in Jasper and continued 40 miles to Miette which compromised our tank range back to Jasper. Surprisingly, our tank range was similar and it was pretty obvious that I’d be bone dry before reaching Jasper and most likely Donna as well. The resort receptionist kindly brought us 2 gallons in the morning so we were good to go without concern.

Back down the Parkway = a different look and lighting and onto Hwy 1 to Revelstoke for the night. Hwy 1 was somewhat awful with lots of road works, muddy conditions, high volume of traffic and heaps of articulated lorries (semis). By Field, I needed a break as I was getting frustrated. What a find! Field is a beauty of quality quaintness, home front gardens and interesting history setting in a valley with towering mountains either side. A relaxing ginger ale soda break at the Truffled Pig hit the spot before continuing into Revelstoke.

Field






From what I could gather, Revelstoke seems to be a popular mountain resort town but nothing to write home about. For us, Revelstoke was the northern gateway across Arrow Lake to Naksup, Kaslo, the Kootenays via the Shelter Bay ferry and onto Castlegar for the Borscht, Burn and BBQ.


6th Annual Borscht, Burn & BBQ - http://www.sport-touring.net/forums/index.php/topic,59954.0.html pretty well sums up the event. Canucks and Yanks, 27 bikes attended, great folk, foods, stunning settings and rides.

When I read the dates of the B, B & BBQ in Castlegar I knew the original route and timing for Canada could be and should be altered to make the event. I had a sampling of BC hospitality with one of the hosts, Bubba (Jim) and his wife and daughter (Karina and Arija), last year while touring BC for the first time over a home cooked meal and a ride with Bubba the next day. Donna and Gary have a close friend in Geoff (Kootenanny) who lives in nearby Nelson, so each of us knew an event host.

We got to Bubba’s (Jim) fairly early on Friday and already a few attendants had arrived.


Jim’s daughter, Arija greeted me with a hug and Karina showed us the rooms. I’d contacted Bubba early on about attending and he reserved two rooms for Donna and I – what a guy!  We’d parked our mud splattered bikes next to Bubba’s and Alphabet man’s pristine and polished 990 Adventurer and LeMans Rosso Corsa Guzzi and before settling in, first order of business was off to the car wash.




In the space of an hour Bubba’s frontage and back yard were filled with riders and it was good to finally meet these STN’ers and put face and personality on the names.






Friday was Borscht night – borscht, pulled pork with all the trimmings, washed down with Canadian whiskey and beer and conversations covering just about everything on wheels, stories of favourite and not so favourite rides and roads and generally acquainting and reacquainting with everyone.

Saturday morning was an early rise at 7am for the Burn and surprisingly there were no foggy heads, or at least it didn’t show. I had no idea of how the ride would play out with 27 riders. All I knew Bubba planned to stop in New Denver before tackling the road to Kaslo and had overheard someone else talking about breakfast at the Frog Something, wherever that was.
Donna and I set out with a large group chaperoned by Kootananny on a terrific back road that I had no idea of where it led until reaching a bridge / river crossing to Hwy 6. The Frog Place was directly across the street and the group pulled in for breakfast. Donna and I continued up 6 to New Denver, topped off the petrol and had a coffee and sticky bun while waiting for Bubba and his team of 5, who duly arrived about 5 minutes later.

Bubba’s quotes and a few of his pics on the ride sum up the ride nicely.

“I personally had an amazing ride from Castlegar to New Denver to Kaslo to Meadow Creek and back, with a highly skilled group. Big Kudos to Demenshea, for not only keeping up, but for adding a wonderful element to the group as well. A charming new friend and competent rider.”

“Le Petit Déjeuner in New Denver
Ducati ST2, KTM 950, Moto Guzzi Rosso Corsa, KTM 990 SM, Bandit 1250S, Aprilia Tuono, BMW GS 1200 would be the weapons of choice this day.”


“Alphabet man puts the Rosso Corsa through it's paces”


“Notarian carving a line through 31A on the SM”


“ducatosh and demenshea at speed followed by Colin's friend whose name escapes me ...”


“alphabet man, Notarian, ducatosh, Croak and Demenshea ... a quick bunch pondering their next victim(s)”


The Burn was followed by the BBQ at Alphabet man and Lizabet’s stunning cottage on Arrow Lake.

The 12 miles dirt road along Arrow Lake to Dave and Liz hugs the hillside, offers highly prized views and privacy in a very desirable setting




Early arrivals – Donna and Alphabet man


Followed shortly by the rest of the troupe setting up camp




Dusk on Arrow Lake


I’ll have to borrow a few pics of the evening as when the whiskey and conversation begins to flow I seem to forget I have a camera!

BBQ (rib eyes, salads, beans and more)




Whiskey table – Demenshea, Endo, Thunderbox (very appropriately named! And a hoot), Birdrunner, Moi and Arija (non whiskey drinking high fiver)


My thanks to the hosts and all who attended making this gathering one to remember.

[notarian]

Sunday morning, we said our farewells to everyone at Bubba's and headed for Donna's brother's house (Bruce) in Spokane. We crossed the border at the notorious Nelway customs. Donna’s first crossing a couple years ago was a 3 hour affair with customs officials inspecting everything short of a blood test. Except for extensive motorhome checks, this time the crossing was painless.


The original route to Spokane was to take us along Priest Lake and through the mountains into Sandpoint before dropping south to Donna’s brother. However, a quick query with the sheriff in Metaline confirmed that all the western roads leading to the lake were dirt and gravel. Decision made was to take the best paved and scenic route and make Spokane by at least 5pm and more time for Donna to visit with Bruce and nephew Michael.

Donna's photos will complete the ride to Spokane and Clarkston plus more from Castlegar.

Finding Bruce’s house with only an address and Donna having been there once before proved difficult until I stopped a gent who gave the simplest instructions = “Go up there to the first light and turn left. Go to the next light and turn right. Go to the next light and turn right. Go to the next light and turn left. It was 6-7 miles but damned if it wasn’t spot on! When we turned onto Halley St, Bruce was out front waiting and duly had us stash the bikes in his garage before getting tucked into the scotch and beer. At 15, Michael is a karate black belt (Bruce is too) and the lad proudly demonstrated his ability in forms to disarm, subdue, disembowel and generally beat the crap out of several attackers while Bruce BBQ'd the steaks.

Bruce and the Karate Kid joined us the next day for part of the ride south. Route chosen was down the east side of Lake Coeur d’Alene to St. Maries and through Saint Joe National Forest to Moscow for late lunch / early dinner with his eldest son, Jeremy. This is a brilliant ride overall.

Couer d’Alene


Family petrol stop


Bruce and Michael headed back to Spokane and Donna and I continued into Lewiston / Clarkston. Rattlesnake Canyon and Enterprise, Oregon would be the first order of business the next morning.

Donna playing with the Rattlesnake after scaring herself silly and her arse taking a bite out of her comfy new seat by going wide with an oncoming logging truck in her path!


Overlooks




We separated paths in Enterprise = Donna to Portland for 3 days to visit with family while I meandered along eastern Oregon roads to Detroit Lake where Donna and I would hook up for the final 5 day run home(s).

The rest of the day saw me to Baker City, via Hell’s Canyon – arriving at Happy Hour!

Eastern Oregon mountains


37 out of Joseph








Treated myself to a bit of poshness at the Geiser Grand Hotel in Baker City. Knowing Donna was still riding in hell (straight road, high winds, heat…) I texted her that I’d arrived in time for happy hour whereupon she replied, screaming “No Fair, No Fair…” Heh, heh, heh…

[notarian]

Off fairly early the next morning and headed north out of Baker City for Anthony Lakes and a road described as ‘The Little Alps’. However, about halfway up to Anthony Lakes I was flagged down by a pair of bikers informing me that the road still wasn’t cleared of snow and not open on the west side. That was a surprise since its almost August. I thanked them for the info and turned back to Baker City to pick up Hwy 7 and connect with my original intended route at Sumpter.

Barge Gold Dredgers in the Sumpter area were operated by only 4 men, 24/7. The dredger would be be anchored at the stern on a deep steel pile allowing the barge to swing a 120 degree arc while continuously scooping up bottom mud containing gold. When the location was exhausted, the barge uprooted the anchor pile, moved forward and reset the pile. Eventually, gold dredging became non-profitable because until around 1973 the US government had frozen the price of gold at $35/oz while the rest of the world gold prices were $140/oz.






At Bates, I picked up a jewel of a 2 lane back road – named County Road 20. It’s a reasonably fast sweeper for the most part with many tighter twisty bits and follows a creek/river for about 40 miles. The only hazards are falling rocks in sections and cattle guards planted right in the middle of turns.

Wouldn’t want to catch this at night


Ranch bridge


3 old timers touring – one had a breakdown


At 395, I swung south for 10 miles into Long Creek and picked up Hwy 402 for Kimberley, Spray and Fossil. This is all good stuff, but it was Fossil to Antelope to Shaniko that was the highlight of the day,

Scenic enough to keep your eyeballs moving side to side, road surface is coal black and I think its chip seal or paved with larger gravel, but no matter because the gravel is fully imbedded and there is no loose stuff. Fossil to Shaniko is absolutely brilliant.




Shaniko is almost a ghost town – 2 short streets. Nothing there to stop for other than a photo






2 miles west out of Shaniko on 97 there’s Bakeoven Rd that is the backside way into Maupin. It's here where you first spy Mt. Hood, and I think, Jefferson and Washington equally spaced out in the distance. Too far for the camera, but impressive to the eye.

Spent the night in Maupin cabin motel = clean, priced right at $60, friendly and serving until 9pm.


I had originally intended to stay the night in Spray, but with Little Alps road closed causing a re-route I’d rode long enough that Maupin is close to my following day’s destination of Lake Detroit where I was to meet Donna the next day. Not to worry, there are enough roads in northern central Oregon to keep one busy for weeks so I reckoned I’d check in early then ask about for some riding road to fill in the afternoon. One in particular after hearing from bokosuko was a ride through the mountains to Sweet Home.

From Maupin the route took me closer to Mt Hood on an easy, lazy 2 lane tracking northwest to 26. It’s ranch country and the closer to Hood the more dominate it gets.


Forest Road 42 is the connection between 26 and Clackamas Road and is one I took north last year in a downpour and Hood was obliterated then. Timothy Lake off 42 is THE Mt Hood lake view and it was there for the taking in all its splendour this year and knowing this, I took a packed lunch.


FR 42




I first saw these pedestrian speed limit signs in Canada and never got a pic of one = I was chuffed to find one in Oregon! Talk about nanny states, since when do you place speed limits on pedestrians? Pedestrians, its even worse in Canada where they limit you 30kmh / 20mph!


FR 42 joins Clackamas Road around mile 27 for beaut of ride into Detroit Lake. This is pure honey!




Detroit Lake


I checked into the motel at 1:30, then asked around about a back road to Sweet Home and was told (as per map) that there was a paved single track (Nat Dev 11) 3 miles past Marion Forks. I was off! Sure enough, all paved too.










From Sweet Home (Foster Lake) I shot up Hwy 20 to 22 and back to Detroit for another happy hour at Ceders and their bar special of 4 decent tacos for 5 bucks! The world was still my tabasco and freshwater oyster, Oregon backroads were looking up and Donna would join me in the morning for the final days of riding south.

[demenshea]

Hey all, just thought I'd add to Notes current post, tag-team style. 

We got off the ferry at Shelter Bay and it was sprinkling, but very beautiful. I got this photo of Bill from my mirror...these are totally gimmick shots, but I still love um!


This shot of Murphy at Bubba's seems to be a favorite!


People arriving at Bubba's and milling about and in general having a go at mutually admiring each other's bikes! 


Bill and I joined the brisk big dogs on Saturday and I wasn't sure how i'd do.   I so enjoyed myself and pushed my envelope a bit, but not ever going beyond my comfort zone or abilities.


A stop with some chat prior to lunch on the road whose name escapes me after all, I've slept since then! 


What an awesome group of machines!


Colin taking off...


A group of Germans arrived at the restaurant, and I had to laugh at how the parking lot now seemed to display an "us and them" scenario. 


Last ride shot of the day...


Alphabet man and Lizabet’s beautiful lake property and cabin...what a place!!  I believe it would be an awesome spot to secede from society.


Everyone's favorite...the Whisky table


In this photo Geoff tells me he is describing temperatures...hmmmmmm  Looks to me like a good photo for assigning captions.


The following morning we geared up and got ready to leave Castlegar but with reservations, as I have never had such a bonding with a group of like minded riders. But after a couple of cups of coffee and some fun conversation and I and Bill were finally ready for the road.

We rode with Geoff over some of the fun Castlegar roads and into Nelson, where Bill and I begged off and rode south toward the border. The ride was a bit rote after all the fun roads we had ridden but the scenery was stellar. Once we arrived at the border, it seemed pretty backed up and we were in a long line of motorhomes (sloths). It seemed that the border dignitaries were methodically going through all each and every house on wheels and travel trailers, so it was slow going. I believe we were there no less than 40 minutes. But we easily got through...welcome back to the USA!

It just occurred to me that I never told you about my serious loss, that of my MAC lipstick and sadly I had lost somewhere on the road and I had encountered no where to replace it. Note, could only chuckle at my loss, but I'm serious, I was a gonner without my favorite lipstick. I was awaiting a "real" store like Nordstrom to replace it and it looked like Spokane was the nearest place. So, damn it, border patrol, let us back home asap, so we can take care of the more serious order of business!  Note gave me nothing but chyt regarding this loss.  

So, past the border, off we went, heading for Spokane the LONG way.

Sullivan Lake


We arrived in Spokane, but not without getting lost before finding my bro's house, our destination for the evening. We were sooooooo close, but without the GPS we were hosed. Bill found a local that could talk us in and we were thrilled to arrive, put our bikes in his garage and drink his whiskey. It was a good night!

My nephew is a black belt as well as my bro and he showed us some of his routines. I must admit to being impressed. That is some serious body control. We ate a wonderful meal, ala Bruce, my bro and called it a night fairly early. The following day, my brother and his son were to join us riding east to go south. I had never ridden with my bro and could hardly wait.

Morning arrived like a soft furry bunny and the last thing I wanted to do was get out of bed. The evening had seen thunder storms and lightening and I spent the night dreaming of being struck by lightening, a silly folly, but a paranoia none the less. I was thrilled to rise seeing some sunshine.

My bro and his two of his boys. I actually took the oldest brave lad, Jeremy as my first pillion but only around the Moscow area.


I love the designs from the mowed crops outside Spokane.


Harrison Slough


We too Bruce my bro and kids to lunch in Moscow then Bill and I headed for Lewiston, the Old Spiral Highway, and a motel for the night. The Spiral Highway is a hoot and one worth running once, however it's really short and this day the wind there was howling. I took this photo at the top and was amazed that I could barely hold the camera still and I was off the bike standing! Bill spoke to another rider at the motel that evening who told him that he had been in that same spot to take a photo when his bike, not locked into first, was knocked down by the wind. Not a cheap lesson for him nor his FJR.


Bill shot this the morning we left Clarkston as I was boldly attempting to shake loose the cobwebs in my brain.  Hmmm....not working.


It had better shake out here on Rattlesnake canyon...


Beautiful road and one that will kick yer arse, if you aren't on game!


Note:"Donna playing with the Rattlesnake after scaring herself silly and her arse taking a bite out of her comfy new seat by going wide with an oncoming logging truck in her path!

I feel the need to qualify that... We were riding with my bro on a hot little twisty bit and Bill and I had run ahead desiring more thrills than my bro's cruiser could handle. Bill was out front and I, after really honing my skills on this trip, took a right hander way too hot. It was DUMB. I trailbraked lightly, stood the bike up a bit and then crossed my fingers as i leaned as far into the corner as I could, seeing a loaded on-coming log truck. Dumb luck saw me through this faux pas, but again I say it was DUMB luck. I slowed my arse down after that, but felt good that luck and a few skills steered me out of harm. This trip glowed with a few epiphanies for me.

Bill and I rode into Enterprise then we split off, me to go see my kids and grandkids, mom and sis in Portland.

Riding solo after so many days of riding with Bill seemed odd. I was so used to seeing him and his KTM in my vision ahead, that I felt a bit loss not seeing him. I have had the pleasure of Gary's company on some longer journeys, but never anyone else. A few days collaboration rides with other mates, but that's usually all and then I'm back to my dedicated solo riding. This was quite different, I not only enjoyed Bill's company as a rider mate, but gained some valuable tips on riding and some good critiques. His sense of humor and respect for my craziness, made every day a new chapter so, he was missed as I gazed at the road ahead lacking his KTM taillights.

I was not thrilled with these tail lights... or lack thereof!


This place in Lostine, OR is always worth a photo, but I must admit, I have never tried their coffee!


I rode up Hwy 206 and then crossed over the Columbia to the WA side, as I prefer riding that side over I84 any day!
One nice shot with  Mt. Hood behind the Columbia.


Shot from Bridge of the Gods


I spend the next few days hanging with these guys, seeing my mom and sis, then went on to meet Bill at Detroit Lake for our final few days!!

[notarian]

0957, sun shining, bike loaded and fuelled, on the balcony overlooking Detroit Lake marina working on my 2nd cup of coffee and the pleasant, faint sound of a silky smooth Jap inline 4 rolling off throttle washes over the lake. Demenshea is spot on time.

Destination is Roseburg, via Oakridge but there was much to catch up on after Donna being 3 days in Portland visiting with her family and my riding in from eastern Oregon. We don’t get out of Detroit until nearer 1100 and with several photo stops, a ride up McKenzie Pass to Wright’s Observatory and back, lunch at Belnaps Hot Springs, the Aufderheide... we’ll see how far we get today.

130’ Santiam Falls


McKenzie’s Pass surface was freshly tarmac 2 years ago and is an outstanding twisty up to the observatory. Although vehicle lengths are limited do to the narrow and tight turned 2 lane road, it can still be camper crowded. It’s a road that I’d love to own = ensuring motorcycles only. It was this combination that put Donna off somewhat while still acknowledging that McKenzie is a ‘coulda, woulda, shoulda’ been more freely exciting. Whereas, campers be damned, this is my kinda road. Oh, and the mossy ‘soylent green’ was absent this time of year – meaning Traction.


Last year, riding south to north, I found the Aufderheide beautiful and twisty. This year, north to south, although as gorgeous and recommended as ever, I found it a less exciting, less twisty ride.








Riding styles = regressing back to the morning of the Burn ride in Castlegar. Donna and I had ridden from Castlegar to New Denver for a caffine / sticky bun stop and hook up with the Bubba / Alphabet Man team. Donna continually slipped far behind and I commented over her slice of cheesecake that she was slow this morning. Donna acknowledged that she wasn’t quite into the ride and might peel off to head back to hang out with the other women at the lake house.

“What? This is the Burn, girl, the reason for being here and you’ll be riding with some quick gents.” Riding isn’t a question of ‘mood’. As Gurney Hallack said, “Mood is for cattle and making love, not for fighting.” and, I’ll add – not for motorcycling. When we headed out with Bubba and team, Donna quickly lost the ‘mood’, held her own and had an outstanding day with the boyos.

Aufderheide was similar with Donna not keeping pace and rather than stop, I let her lead knowing that she’d have to dial it up a few notches or my front tyre would be on her back like a cheap suit.

Sure enough! The lassie responded – using all of her lane, deeper into the corners for better sight lines, pushing harder on the bar, increasing lean angle and using the whole of the tyre surface – resulting in toes on the tarmac and a stream of sparks from the Bandit footpegs. Mood? What’s that?

It took a few more turns for Donna slow down and let the brain register what had happened. I went by slapping my side, killing myself laughing and gave her a big thumbs up. The lassie had cracked one of those invisible barriers moved up another step.

It was about 5pm when we rolled into Oakridge and, although there were another 3 hours of daylight, I made the call to halt here for the night and the decision would prove correct. The route through the mountains from Oakridge to Steamboat Rd and onto Hwy 138 is fraught with potential wrong turnings and getting lost, sun going down = sleeping with the bears.

Last year’s ride around the West included Steamboat Creek Road and a remote route over the mountains into Oakridge. Although there was some gravel, I couldn’t remember which road, or maybe both had rougher sections and there are so many auxiliary connecting dirt roads that it’s not difficult to lose one’s way. To ensure smooth travelling, we stopped at the Ranger station outside Oakridge for a complete map of the area and inquire about surfaces.

Sure enough, there’s a completely paved route from Oakridge to Steamboat Creek road, but rather than turn south on Steamboat for Hwy 138 due to a washout, I was told by the Ranger that it would be best to continue east on paved Forest Road 22 to 2213 south and 10 miles of dirt, tying in with paved 767 then connecting with the paved 2212… sounds complicated but looked fairly straight forward as shown on the Rangers comprehensive map.

What a crock! Any paved road out there is purely in the map makers’ imagination and we saw them all.


I thought about heading down Steamboat Creek when we got to it, but decided the Ranger Service knew best and tried to keep to their recommended route. There are more connecting roads than shown on the Ranger map and at each junction kept to the routing shown, or rather tried to.




Even the plant life resemble the fruitcake conehead humans that tackle Oregon’s outback - it's tits up for you Pal!


There were a few humans along the way and some seemed content with knowing where they were and others just as confused as we were. However dirty and gravelled the roads were we were able to make fairly good time (mostly about 25 mph) in nowhere land until reaching THE FORK where one way went down slightly to the left and the other climbing up. There was a fella in a pickup there and I asked, “which way to pavement?” He replied that he didn’t know about the road leading down, but the road up leads to the top and not far down the other side we’ll hit the pavement.

Either way looked dodgy as the roads clearly became deeply rutted from rain runoff at this point. Now what? Do you turn back knowing that pavement is a short ways further on according to this man? We had 2 ½ hours invested in this route and although it hadn’t been good and had its poor moments, it really it hadn’t been all that bad…and what would we get if we did return and take the non-recommended Steamboat? What he didn’t say was that it wasn’t a road from there on and more of a wide-ish, god awful, steep rocky trail it became, nor how far it was down the other side to pavement.

My thoughts were that the deep ruts wouldn’t be long lasting and if a real road was just ahead…why backtrack now.

We climbed up and over, beginning a descent on the worst road/track I’d ever been on with a street bike. I met one more pickup man on the way down and asked how much further to pavement? His response was, “That’s a street bike!” It may be a street bike but at least it’s a KTM and built by dirt people – wait’ll he sees the broad behind me on a fully laden tourer! He managed to tell me there was another 7 miles to go. “Oh, swell!”

After 3 weeks I knew what Donna on the Bandit could do and what she couldn’t. It was now getting tougher but if it didn’t get much worse and she took it slow, slow… she’d be alright. That went for me as well although I could go a bit faster.

Mountain side and foot deep runoff trench on the right, deep drop off into the ravine on the left cliff side with the entire trail centre full of rocks, ruts, small boulders… at times there was a 6” smooth-ish path nearest the mountain side or nearest the cliff edge depending on which way the road leaned for the next turn. No more mere gravel or dirt and each descent turn had rocks and stones piled at the apex.

Then came the truly diabolical section. 30+ degree descent, no real certain path to choose, rocky, mini bouldery and a sharp left at the bottom with stones and rocks filling the inside apex line half way onto the width of the trail. Donna’s don’t convey the elevation change being almost 1’ vertical in every 2’ lateral = think of a narrow mogul mine field black run.

Looks are deceiving, it was bad, very bad…


I tiptoed down to the bottom and knew that Donna didn’t stand a chance of making it down with the Bandit. The turning was too sharp and steep to park the bike without first finding and kicking a large flat rock to rest the sidestand on and it took a minute to get one. Knowing that Donna was much slower, I thought there was time to intercept her.

Finally off the bike, I charged back up to stop Donna from coming down that 60’ section. I was about 20 seconds too late and she was already beginning it. She was quite rightly so focused on the very front of her bike and crawling over a large rock that she didn’t see me hold up both hands to stop or hear my shout.

As her front tyre cleared the rock and on touch down it tucked in and the bike tipped over virtually from a standstill. Bike and rider on the deck. Donna was okay and that was the main concern. The bike would be scuffed up somewhat but should be okay as well. Now the primary was to right the heavy beast and get it down onto flatter terrain.

And heavy the Bandit is, especially with panniers and topbox. One pannier and topbox off, hand on the front brake and both of us straining our respective milks the turtled Bandit righted. Now for getting it down = damn slow and choosing the best line over the rocks out to the high side rather than attempting the apex.

With Donna and bike finally at the bottom it was time to take stock of the damage to both. Donna’s left palm was bruised and swelling nicely when she’d broken her fall and probably struck a pointy rock. There’d be more hurts than her hand after the adrenaline rush subsided but for now that was about it.

The Bandit had a broken front turn signal holder hanging limply, a tiny diaper rash on the fairing and a larger one on the left pannier (just to equal the right pannier scuff from a tip over earlier this year) and the outer tip of the clutch lever sheared off. The turn signal light still functioned and the lens and holder could be taped up to remain legal. All in all, it could have been much, much worse.


The rest of the mile descent to Sharps Creek road (paved) on what we discovered is Champion Creek Road was slow and uneventful. At Sharps Creek we took a break and patched the turn signal, Donna found her right forearm bruised where she must have hit the windscreen while falling and her left shoulder sore from ground impact.


Donna – “That was awful.”

Me – “Consider it part of the Burr training. You’ll have no problem with the Burr Trail after this road. This is by far the worse road I’ve ever ridden on a street bike. That was well done, Toots.”

That after 3 and ½ hours of riding we had only reached Cottage Grove and off base to the north of Roseburg by 50 miles meant a revised route. I had mapped out 2 routes to Galice (near Grants Pass). The primary route via Murtle Point, Powers and Gold Beach and inland forest road to Galice was definitely out at this point. The alternate was still available. If we took I-5 to Riddle we could easily do the back way to Galice on Cow Creek and Reuben’s to Glendale and Wolf Creek to Galice. Schedule wise, we wouldn’t miss a beat from all that wilderness nonsense.

Fuelling up in Cottage Grove, I asked the station mechanic if he could tighten the Bandit inside signal holder nut as my needle nose pliers couldn’t quite get onto it. Donna called Gary to tell her tale of off road experience and the mechanic hinged on every word. I paid no attention to her conversation, but when I asked the mechanic what I owed him, he said that he’d been up Champion Creek earlier that week and was almost in disbelief that we’d come down it on street bikes. “For anyone riding that road, I’d repair it for free. No charge.”

I don’t know how Donna described it to Gary, but can imagine from his reaction. “You were over 3 hours lost and crashing in the mountains and now way behind schedule. Its time for you to come home.”

I prefer to call it an over-reaction, except for us not being behind any schedule, but correct nonetheless that it was indeed probably time for Donna to hightail it home to her husband. 3 weeks away riding, dragging pegs the day before, now tackling rocky dirt tracks, more of a tip over than a crash, but still some damage…what next?

Northern California is Donna’s backyard and our route to Sac was one on a few roads she hadn’t yet done = no reason to press the situation when she can do them easily virtually any time.

60 miles on I-5 to Riddle, then a nice back road named Cow’s Creek that follows a stream and railroad tracks to a real beauty, Reuben’s Road into Glendale.




At Glendale I wanted to pick up the back way into Wolf Creek, Tunnel Road. Not sure if we were on it, I stopped at the Fire Station to ask. Yep, we were on it all right, but told we might not want to take it is unpaved and the top complete mud. Quite a number of travellers have gotten stuck there and its $200 to be rescued. Well, after Champion Creek, Donna had had enough of dirt for one day and I washed enough mud off my bike already during this trip. So onto I-5 again and a few miles to Wolf Creek.

At Wolf Creek we stopped at the historic Wolf Creek Inn I’d heard of recently and inquired about staying there rather than try our luck in Galice. Nice place, but no vacancies. Since Donna was to mostly I-5 slab it home tomorrow, we decided to stay in Grant’s Pass 20 minutes away.

Demenshea’s criteria for the night was a motel and a bar. Done. I spied a clean looking motel on Main St. advertising good room rates and wifi with a separate restaurant and tavern directly across the street.

By the time the lady was refreshed and ready to step out after the days’ ride, it was past dinner time and well into whisky time. Tavern has a meaning of its own in Oregon and this meant beer and wine only. Probably a good thing = we washed back a half dozen pre-made bottled 3% alcohol margarita thingys each over the course of 2 hours while listening to drunken okie karaoke and watching middle aged male and female water balloon fights…Yippee KIA, I hadn’t seen this kind of fun since junior high.

Next morning we separated company for the second and last time - Donna for Sacramento and home to Gary and me off down 199 to O’Brien, Happy Camp, Cecilville to Weaverville, Ca.

[notarian]

My route to Los Gatos would take me on several roads I’ve never been on – O’Brien to Happy Camp, Somes Bar to Cecilville and onto Callahan, Titlow Hill Road from 299 to 36, Van Duzen Road to Garberville and Comptche Ukiah Road from Mendocino to Ukiah.

The O’Brien, Oregon to Happy Camp, California road has too many names to identify using only one – suffice to this is one of the best biking roads into or out of northern California/Oregon. At O’Brien its Waldo Road off 199, at Happy Camp its Indian Creek Road off 96 and in between there’s 40 miles of constant mountain turns. I think I got lucky for a sunny summer 85F Sunday = passed 4 cars and not one RV.


Hwy 96 (Bigfoot Scenic Byway) follows the Klamath River and is always a treat visually and for the road. Again, there was very little traffic from Happy Camp to Somes Bar where I headed further inland along the Salmon River to Cecilville and eventually Hwy 3 at Callahan.

Klamath River


Salmon River (CA)


Salmon River / Cecilville road begins with 2 lanes but soon narrows to a single track


But this is what you get immediately east of Cecilville all the way to Hwy 3


I topped off with petrol in O’Brien and with only a 160 mile tank range should have continued the 7 miles past Somes Bar to Orleans where the general store has petrol on a Sunday until 4pm. Salmon Forks and Cecilville have petrol but both close on Sunday or close early.

The nearest petrol was in Etna and I made it at mile 159. Dark clouds had been looming ominously for the past hour and upon arrival in Etna found power from the coast to Shasta had been knocked out from the storm = there’s fuel but no way to get at it.

After an hour and coming up on 6pm I inquired about vacancies at the only motel in Etna, nada, full up. Fortunately, the Etna station is also an RV park and managed to scrounge 2 gallons of gas from the RV crowd – enough to see me to Trinity Center in a downpour and finally Weaverville and back into sunshine. Maybe I should back off slagging the RV people. Nah, I still don’t think they should be allowed off the Interstate.

Titlow Hill Road outside Willow Creek is mountain ridge delight with fine tarmac and beautiful views of the coastal range. At several points along the way one can see Mt. Shasta AND the Pacific Ocean (if its clear).


Coastal ocean overcast in the distance


Titlow Hill Road






Titlow Hill joins Hwy 36 near the Mad River Burger Bar – fine burgers and tri-tip sangers


Van Duzen Road is west of Mad River off Hwy 36 and one I can’t recommend. Its good for the first 8 miles then the surface deteriorates substantially from good to bad to worse to downright awful after Kettenporn. It you can stomach Van Duzen until the Zenia / Kettenporn junction, I suggest you try the Zenia route into Alderpoint because I’m sure it cannot be any worse.


Leggart to the coast is now newly paved and wonderful. Perhaps the best 22 miles of motorcycle road in the state.


The only drawback is the indented cat-eyes either side of the centre line. Useful perhaps for cagers, but potentially dangerous for bikers.


Clear, sunny and hot inland – fog morning and evening, overcast during the day, damp and colder on the coast is typical this time of year. In a space as little as 10 miles temperatures can vary by 30F. When I reached the coast it was cool rather than cold.




They build a fine sandwich here - Westport


The Comptche Ukiah Road from Mendocino is fabulous until just past Comptche, forested and racetrack like surface. From Comptche to Ukiah, although scenic, the surface is spotty from okay to very bumpy. If you are on a sport bike, turn south for 128 at Comptche.






Once again I was hoping the rear tyre would last a bit longer and see me to Chere’s but wasn’t to be and replaced it in Ukiah. This is number 3 for the trip. The front still has life in the tread but has become slightly pyramid shaped, affecting the handling and will have to be changed out soon.

I was also hoping to take Skaggs / Stewart Point road but at Boonsville the 128 was closed to all traffic south due to an overturned petrol tanker not just blocking each lane, but had spilt all its cargo – 4,000 gallons!

Never mind, Mountain View was available and although not a favourite surface, it was built for motorcycles.


It was time to get serious about arriving at Chere’s in time for supper, so it was Hwy 1 to SF (no complaints with this road, just the high volume of traffic) and 280 / 85 to Los Gatos.

Stinson Beach from Tamalpias


And thus closes a fantastic journey with a great riding partner and wonderful friend – Demenshea.

Cheers my dear - Slangevar!

Post script - Next day = Chere's ready, Chick's getting geared up. Afternoon ride, anyone?



View Directions to Jasper, 607 Connaught Dr, Jasper, AB T0E 1E0, Canada (Miette Hot Springs Resort) in a larger map


View Directions to Baker City, OR, USA in a larger map


View Larger Map


View Detroit to Oakridge in a larger map


View Directions to Cottage Grove, OR, USA in a larger map


View Directions to Weaverville, CA, USA in a larger map


View possible route/ weaverville to Sac in a larger map


View Larger Map

[Orson]

Fantastic ride  

I hope to ride B.C. and the Borscht Burn after I retire  

I still think Northern California offers up just as much as Europe as a motorcycling mecca  

[bubba zanetti]

Epic     What a treat to while away a good coffee over your most excellent trip report and some fond memories.

 

[birdrunner]

sigh.    




come on Loto MAx.

[demenshea]

Here are a couple of last photos of our ride through OR.

This one in front of Sahialie Falls, you know that point and shoot self-portrait...


Note on the McKenzie Pass, the road sans any other traffic would be the most awesome moto-road ever!


Another...


Sigh...i am ready to go again, now that I have my new FLUSH MOUNT turn signals ordered and a new clutch lever!!