Long overdue update - finally on my feet again and able to push the bikes around in my oddly sloping garage after a bicycle crash put me on crutches, then in an awkward walking boot.
I used the service manual and did most of the 24k service checks yesterday. Today after knocking a few items off the honey do list I dove into the engine.
It's not hard, exactly, but there is a lot of wiring and a lot of steps. More so than any other bike I've had, naked or faired.
Step one was moving the bikes around since the Triumph is in a really tight spot. Not pictured are the 2007 Harley Heritage something or other and mid-80s Virago that also wedge into here. Not an ideal work space...
I didn't have a helper and my supply of things to shim was limited, so I siphoned what I could out of my full tank into the Guzzi (which was almost full too) then used a level and ratchet strap to hold the tank up while I disconnected the various lines and plugs.
This is my first fuel injected bike, so more electronics than I've worked with in the past, but pretty easy to disconnect and get to the airbox.
The air filter is pretty filthy (pic didn't turn out, but I'll get another). I definitely need to replace it.
Next - down to the throttle bodies.
I did this all in the shared driveway between my apartment building and the one behind it, so had to gather up my stuff and move it and the bike several times during the project, which slowed things down. Looking naked with the tank and air box gone.
Down to the valve cover and I realized I didn't have a rubber mallet here in CA, so I set off walking to the various neighborhood hardware stores to find one. Took 3 tries. A half dozen strikes with a 32oz mallet and it popped off problem free, and the gasket came easily with it.
One step I had skipped because it didn't seem important was removing the raised sections on top of the valve cover for the PCV hoses. Turns out they have to come off because the valve cover slides out the right side of the frame. Easy enough to resolve.
The manual has you spin the rear wheel in a high gear to get each cylinder to TDC so the valves can be checked. This is much more difficult than removing and engine side case and rotating the crank with a breaker bar and socket. No matter what I did I could not get the cams to line up at TDC. I could get the exhaust side or the intake side right, but that was it. I settled for this and checked the valves this way, and my first two exhaust valves both let a .330 feeler gauge slide through when the max clearance is .325.
Doing a search just now I see it is possible to turn the engine with a hex socket so I'm going to give that a try tomorrow and see if I can get TDC to line up. At least I'll be able to see the engine when I spin it unlike the rear wheel method that has me running back and forth.
If I'm lucky TDC will find the valves within spec, but I'm not expecting that'll be the case.
More to come hopefully tomorrow evening.