Bikes involved in a flood.

[white26golf]

I couldn't get past item one without  

I did look it up prior to using, but don't take my word for it, here is what Amsoil, and Mobil 1 engineers have to say......unless you know more than them?

AMSOIL:

"Many people have the perception that since synthetics are more slippery than petroleum oils (which simple don't reduce friction as well), that wet clutch packs in either their automotive automatic transmission or motorcycle transmission will slip when using "super slippery synthetics". AMSOIL Synthetic Oils are no more "slippery" than petroleum oil. AMSOIL Synthetic Oils simply have a more uniform molecular structure which reduces frictional resistance better than the irregular shape and size molecular structure of a petroleum oil.

Look at it this way. Wet sandpaper removes paint as well as dry sandpaper does. The slipperiness of the water does not impede the sandpaper's ability to function. The same applies to the "slipperiness" of synthetic lubes in wet clutches.

If used dry, the sandpaper is soon filled with paint and no longer works- it slips across the surface without grasping the surface. If kept clean and free of paint, it continues to work. The lubricating/cleaning solution used can be water, soap, oil or any other liquid. The liquid's slipperiness does not affect the performance of the sandpaper.

It is simply not an issue. However, just as rinsing the sandpaper keeps it cleaner longer so it functions better longer, so the AMSOIL Synthetic Oils keeps wet clutch plates cleaner longer so they function better.

AMSOIL Synthetic Oils will prevent deposit buildup on clutch plates, therefore keeping the face clean and able to do its job in preventing slippage.

And, since synthetics are superior cooling agents to conventional petroleum lubes, using synthetics will help wet clutches last longer, too.

Petroleum oils have low resistance to heat and allow varnish and glaze to form on clutch plates, which eventually leads to slippage and increased heat generation and eventually failure of the clutch pack.

Also, AMSOIL motorcycle oils are specifically formulated without any friction modifiers for compatibility with wet clutch packs. AMSOIL ATF lubricants are also designed with specific coefficient of friction values to meet the requirements of each and every specification that it not only meets, but far exceeds.

Now you know the facts. The next time your buddy mentions using AMSOIL Synthetic Oils and Wet Clutches as a potential issue, you can explain to him exactly why it is simply not an issue."

MOBIL 1:

   
Question:
Using Mobil 1 Synthetic Motorcycle Oils in Bikes with Wet Clutches
Can your Mobil synthetic be used in a motorcycle engine with a wet clutch? My oil service intervals are scheduled at 6000 miles in the manual, but I have been changing it at 3000 miles with a conventional oil.
-- Ed Balas, Irwin, PA
Answer:
Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 motorcycle oils provide superb protection for the engine, transmission and wet clutch primaries, even under the most grueling racing conditions. These products have been formulated especially for motorcycles.

[et]

Almost sounds like some of you are confusing "synthetic" with "energy" conserving.
Wet clutches can take synthetic with no problems.
It's the "energy conserving" part of motor oils designed for cars that should not be used with motorcycle wet clutches.

[white26golf]

Almost sounds like some of you are confusing "synthetic" with "energy" conserving.
Wet clutches can take synthetic with no problems.
It's the "energy conserving" part of motor oils designed for cars that should not be used with motorcycle wet clutches.

+1  You need to ensure you are not using car synthetic which is almost always "energy conserving".  Race, or Motorcycle synthetic is what should be used.

[PatM]

This thread went from flooded bike to totalled to an oil thread within two pages.
How about the tires? 

[et]

This thread went from flooded bike to totalled to an oil thread within two pages.
How about the tires? 

Keeping 'em filled with some water has the same effect as those Dyna Beads.  

[Cablebandit]

I prefer a couple ounces of alcohol.  It gets cold in these parts.

Blue washer fluid works well.

[Mr.Black]

Bingo.

Synth and dino oil are fundamentally identical in what they do. Jeezuz, why is this even a discussion?  

Because we are not all as f*cking brilliant as you.

[white26golf]

My insurance company agent told me that a vehicle in a flood is 99% assuredly a total-out without ever seeing shop time.

Let's hope I am not the 1%! The tires are fine, thanks for asking. The discussion went that way due to my original post being a two question post.

[Kneescrubber]

Because we are not all as f*cking brilliant as you.

Speak for yourself.  

[white26golf]

 

3.   If you are going to sell it and "make it somebody else's problem"...    Shit, son, give me a call - I'm not afraid of it - sounds like I might get a really nice bike for a really nice price.

It's yours for $4000 come and get it!

Ad reads:  2008 Kawasaki Versys for Sale.  Been in flood up to top of gas tank for up to 24hrs.  Bike runs like new, you won't have any issues......or so some people tell me!

[scottzilla]

If you had Nitrogen in the tires the thing would have floated away.



Seriously, Call the ins company.  I suspect years of odd electrical gremlins may be coming your way.

[Cablebandit]

  I suspect years of odd electrical gremlins may be coming your way.

You could just buy a Guzzi if you wanted that.

[Bounce]

If I were looking at a used [vehicle], a "flooder" would see me turn on my heel and walk away. Far too many potential long-term issues (just electrical corrosion alone for example) for me to want to bother. Modern bikes also have EFI, ABS, and other computer modules that don't like being soaked for a long time.

Bummer as your in for a fight... either with your adjuster now or with your bike later.

[Papa Lazarou]

Sitting submerged will fuck your bike. Bottom line. The amount of teardown to PROPERLY clean, dry, re-lube, inspect and reassemble - at regular shop rates - will end up costing twice what the insurance would pay out. Sitting submerged is VASTLY different from riding in even the absolute worst storm. You're talking about replacing every bearing. Bearing seals are *not* waterproof; they are dust and dirt resistant. You're talking about replacing the entire wiring harness. Water sitting in there (and believe me, they will NEVER get it all out) will - over time - harden all the insulation, vaporize and corrode wires and connections, etc. You're talking about - properly - completely tearing down the engine and using a water displacement compound inside the whole thing. You're talking about fully tearing down the frame and ensuring no water got inside of it. You're talking about inspecting every square millimeter of painted items to ensure there's no rust spots.

For the record, my former career was as an ASE-certified auto mechanic with inspection, performance and reconstruction specialties. I have some experience here, is my point.

Honestly, and no offense, I wouldn't buy your bike for anything more than $500 at this point.

I don't mean to sound like a dick, but that bike is reasonably trashed and your insurance company needs to agree to that. More importantly, your DEALER'S insurance company should also see it that way.

This

[atadaskew]

 My insurance also says that due to the flood being of natural causes, that the stores insurance most likely will not cover anything, so it will be all on my insurance if any "damage" is found.

That makes no sense.  Why would your insurance cover it but not the store's?
This is the responsibility of the store.
No matter what they claim, your bike is f-cked.
If their insurance does not pay up, and if they do not want to buy it off you at real market value, take them to court.  They will lose, and be also responsible for your time and costs.

[falconati]

^^^^^^^^^

[X1Glider]

My 1150GS was flooded back in 2003.  On my way home, exited the freeway, stuck in traffic, all blocked up as everyone was trying to get out, as the water kept rising until I was swallowed up, sitting on top of a U-boat.  Here's what I learned:

(Touratech panniers are truly waterproof!  They float!)

Water made it's way into everything.

-engine was filled up
-starter, alternator and accessory drive were filled
-All electrical connectors (all not waterproof) were soaked
-ECM soaked
-air box filled up
-gas tank filled up
-after draining, refiling and starting up, bike died after running for 30 seconds.  Turns out that water molecules will not pass through fuel filter media)
-injectors ruined
-seat padding soaked
-dry clutch tranny filled (clutch friction material and water are a disaster)
-electric dash and guages were filled
-headlamps were filled
-tail light and signals were filled
-all bearings were saturated
-shaft housing was filled
-switch housings were soaked
-exhaust system including muff and cat were filled up

For a competent and caring shop to completely disassemble the whole bike, dry it completely, and reassemble it with new lubes, dielectric greases and replace all electric components would have been triple the price of a new bike.

Nothing good will come of a flooded bike coming back in your possession.

Any shop that says your bike is ok is filled with idiots and the shop's name should be made public so no one else goes to them.  They are untrustworthy.

The shop's insurance should cover this, not yours.  It should be totalled.  Accept nothing less.

[Dan K]

The bike is toast.  You don't want it anymore.

1. Dealer's insurance is responsible. Bike was in their possession.  

2. If they are telling you its OK, tell them they should take it on trade and give you fair market value for it right now, before insurance companies get involved any further.

Take the advice given here as to what it takes to repair a submerged bike (all of the cleaning/replacing etc. listed above) and make sure the adjuster includes it on his estimate before he leaves the bike.  Ask him if he included replacing and repacking all bearings, checking frame for water, all of that stuff that happened to the GS, etc.  And if he says no, ask him why not.

- Dan

[JTM]

The bike is toast.  You don't want it anymore.

1. Dealer's insurance is responsible. Bike was in their possession.  

I'm not sure how it is up there, but down here a dealership's insurance does not cover damage by rising water (flooding) unless they have a specific flood policy.

[atadaskew]

I'm not sure how it is up there, but down here a dealership's insurance does not cover damage by rising water (flooding) unless they have a specific flood policy.

Then the dealership has to pay for the bike out of pocket.