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Topic: How bad is riding on a bad wheel bearing?  (Read 6814 times)

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tomek
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« Reply #20 on: April 21, 2012, 09:44:56 AM »




Oh?  I have heard good things about All Balls. What is wrong with them? They look to be well made to me.  And do you have any suggestions as to which companies make a "real" bearing?    Smile


Durability , my friend . I used them before I knew better any better , they simply wore out pretty fast .
Don`t waste your time . All Balls in their kits is using the cheapest bearings known to the mankind .
Their dust seals sucks too . Please don`t let me start on their tapered steering kits .

I`ve had very good results with RB Tech premium bearings , from ebay of course . Yes , Made in China .

SKF , NTN and couple of others are reputable brands .
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« Reply #21 on: April 21, 2012, 11:03:22 AM »




Durability , my friend . I used them before I knew better any better , they simply wore out pretty fast .
Don`t waste your time . All Balls in their kits is using the cheapest bearings known to the mankind .
Their dust seals sucks too . Please don`t let me start on their tapered steering kits .

I`ve had very good results with RB Tech premium bearings , from ebay of course . Yes , Made in China .

SKF , NTN and couple of others are reputable brands .


Thanks for the tips  Thumbsup

I already ordered an all balls kit, so I'll run them till they wear. In the interim I'll source a better set for next time so I'm prepared. Prolly get a set for the rear as well. Since the front went - I suspect the rear will soon follow.
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« Reply #22 on: April 21, 2012, 07:38:10 PM »

Well , this is how front All Balls looked after 15 - 20 k miles , I barely made  home from Rockies trip .
 
 In case anyone wonders I was not doing anything out of the ordinary .

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj131/tomekd65/IMG_1661.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj131/tomekd65/IMG_1660.jpg
 

 Rust on the so-called grease . LOL

BTW , OEM were still perfect after about 80 K miles but I decided to replace them as a preventive maintenance .  
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« Reply #23 on: April 22, 2012, 12:37:02 PM »

Yeeeeaahhh, them's rusty bearings. The ones on my 1979 Yamaha look as good as new, and are apparently indestructible. I've been pounding the crap out of one and it won't budge, and it still turns.
But like the previous poster, preventive maintenance while the wheel is off the bike at 70,000 km.
What is the average success of people getting wheel bearings out themselves or reverting to a shop with the right equipment?

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« Reply #24 on: April 22, 2012, 12:40:07 PM »


What is the average success of people getting wheel bearings out themselves or reverting to a shop with the right equipment?


Pull the snap rings, possibly a bit of heat and a dead blow hammer with a punch or broom handle
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« Reply #25 on: April 22, 2012, 01:33:57 PM »


What is the average success of people getting wheel bearings out themselves or reverting to a shop with the right equipment?



I've had great success.  While I have a bearing puller kit, stubborn bearings sometimes involve other methods/tools including a pipe or rod over a socket with the proper circumference; dead blow hammer; lubes like PJ Blaster; and quick hits with a blowtorch.
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« Reply #26 on: April 23, 2012, 10:40:22 AM »

One method when all else fails - Knock the inner race and balls out, then cut some slots on the inside of the outer race with a Dremel and a cutoff tool. Cut the slots almost all the way through the race. A couple of those and it should come right out.
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« Reply #27 on: April 23, 2012, 10:47:31 AM »

Putting the new beawrings into the freezer the night before you intend to install them will ease that chore  . . . .
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« Reply #28 on: April 23, 2012, 12:18:54 PM »

Long boring story...cliff notes at the end...

In September 2010 I took a trip from Nashville up to Maine, and back. On day 1, I worked all day (Saturday of Memorial Day weekend) and then let outta town at maybe 6:45pm on my fully loaded (Givi trunk, semi-soft big-ass bags, full, large duffel across pillion, giant heavy tank bag) 1994 CBR1000F. My plan was to ride over Deal's Gap and on to Bryson City, where I'd get a room for the night before continuing on.

I stopped for gas in Maryville TN at maybe 9:30pm...so far everything was great. I sat around, ate a sandwich I think, smoked a couple cigs or whatever...in general, decompressing from my daily life, and workign my way into this, the first few hours of 15 consecutive days away from everything. After wasting 30 minutes probably, I got geared back up and hit the road...except that even in teh parking lot I could feel that something was wrong. I stopped right there, checked tire pressure, etc. and found nothing wrong, decided it was just me, and let out again.

Ok, something is broken......I think my front wheel bearings are bad.

Pulled back into the gas station...I was right. I guess the heat of freeway speeds kept it expanded and together, because it was completely destroyed. THe wheel wobbled on the axle as if there were no bearings. So, being the highly effective critical thinker that I am, I did some analysis.

1. It's Saturday night on Memorial Day weekend. If I stay here I will probably not be able to get this fixed until Tuesday.
2. It's Saturday night on Memorial Day weekend. If I continue on, there is no available help for many (many) miles, and even if there was, it will be Tuesday before it's open.
3. Riding over Deal's Gap late at night is already a little sketchy because you can't see the road conditions as easily, and there are _many_ wild animals in the area.
4. I'm only 160 miles from home and about to ride 3500 more, so I can easily just call it a false start, go home, fix the bike, and leave again. I can limp home, or get my wife to come get me, or a buddy with a trailer.

Conclusion: F*ck it. Maybe Wheeler's will be open tomorrow.

So, off I went. If you've never ridden a 575 pound bike with 150 pounds of luggage on it over Deal's Gap with no front wheel bearings in the dark, and in pouring rain, I can't say that I recommend it.

Oh I'm sorry, did I forget to mention that it started raining cats and dogs about 7 minutes after I left the gas station?

That was not the most fun ride ever. I got to the CRoT, and of course they were long closed, so I busted out my fleece blanket and "slept" on the concrete floor of the picnic table pavilion thing that was there (it's reconfigured now). When I woke up I went onto the restaurant there and got some breakfast, and considered my options. At some point, I looked up from my eggs, and my luck began to change.

Across the room from me was my racing buddy Chris Davies. I hadn't seen him in at least a year, but there he was...at the Gap, on that morning. I went over and said hi, and 10 minutes later my bike was in his trailer, and on the way to Wheeler's...which was open, and who had my wheel bearings.

Luck: changed. Maybe 45 minutes and $60 later I was back on the road, wheel bearings a-new. Trip: salvaged.



cliffs: Don't risk it. They can fail at any time, and when they do, it sucks.

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« Reply #29 on: April 23, 2012, 12:20:40 PM »


I already ordered an all balls kit, so I'll run them till they wear. In the interim I'll source a better set for next time so I'm prepared. Prolly get a set for the rear as well. Since the front went - I suspect the rear will soon follow.


Justin! Read this!

No matter the brand name of bearings, I always pop the seals off and pack them with quality grease before installation.  Thumbsup

Sometimes the factory scrimps on the grease, and I only want to R&R them ONCE.  Thumbsdown
« Last Edit: April 23, 2012, 12:26:22 PM by veefer800canuck » Logged

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« Reply #30 on: April 23, 2012, 12:25:03 PM »

this method works for ordinary roller bearings as well as tapered oned.

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« Reply #31 on: April 23, 2012, 12:40:22 PM »

I have a bearing story...Smile

Each year the three of us go out on a 9-10 day sportbike trip. Me, my cousin and a very good friend.  My cousin is riding a '96 F2 with about 30k on the clock.

The setting is backass WV on Friday at 3pm the night before memorial day weekend.  

We were railing some turns.  Super high speed cruising.  He starts to notice his rear tire feels loose.  He has be follow him and it looks terrible.  At least 1" of play on the top and bottom.  Real scary.  Totally out in the middle of nowhere.

We take the speed really far down and one of us rips out ahead to solicit the locals for help and stop and the next gas station.  No success at first, but are told of a town 15 miles away that has a Walmart and some other stuff.  

Roll into the other town and see a motorsports place.  Sweet!!! Success!!!  Well they don't have the bearing, but the parts guy was a real macguiver and finds out what bearing goes into the bike.  Turns out it is a Timken.  He then calls Timken technical support and gets the outside and inside diameter.  He then goes in the back and puts a caliper on many bearings till he finds the right one,,,turns out honda dirtbikes have the same dimensions.  Yes they aren't as beefy but they will do for government work.  

So now we have our sample bearings in hand.  5pm on friday.  Every mechanic closed up shop 2 hrs ago.  Crap.  

We head to Walmart and buy a bunch of cheap tools.  Big hammer, punches and some gloves.  We find a parking lot with a cement block sitting in it and use that to prop up the back of the bike.  After 30 mins we were all back together and all absolutely filthy,,,but happy.  
It was a good story at the bar later that night.  Smile
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« Reply #32 on: April 23, 2012, 12:52:35 PM »




Justin! Read this!

No matter the brand name of bearings, I always pop the seals off and pack them with quality grease before installation.  Thumbsup

Sometimes the factory scrimps on the grease, and I only want to R&R them ONCE.  Thumbsdown


Good thinking. Now, where can I get a small amount of chevron sri 2 or similar grease? That's what they use on their bearings (all balls), does it matter if I use a diff grease? I have a tub of Belray waterproof grease - not sure if it's high temp though. So not sure if that'd be sufficient.
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« Reply #33 on: April 23, 2012, 02:16:23 PM »

any brand name of grease will be fine . . . . not sure where to find a small amount, just spend the 6 or 8 bux on teh tube of high-temp grease at NAPA . . . . you'll find uses for it . . . .
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« Reply #34 on: April 23, 2012, 02:22:22 PM »


any brand name of grease will be fine . . . . not sure where to find a small amount, just spend the 6 or 8 bux on teh tube of high-temp grease at NAPA . . . . you'll find uses for it . . . .


Actually, my tub of Belray waterproof grease says right on the tub it's for wheel bearings and other stuff. So my last concern is, it does not matter if you mix different greases?
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« Reply #35 on: April 23, 2012, 09:06:37 PM »

When you pop the seals off, clean out the factory grease with a little varsol, WD40 and or brake cleaner, then squish in the new grease, install the seals and go!
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