BMW Clutch Cost and life span
jaxxsun:
I am doing the usual indepth and over the top, research for my next Bike. I am coming off a Goldwing.
I greatest concern is maintenance and cost. I can do most things on my own. As long as I do not effect the warranty.
I ride around, 15,000 miles a year. Rain or shine. I am leaning toward a 1200RT possibly a GS??
Max Wedge:
Welcome jaxxsun! I've got 20k on my GS, and the clutch is till holding in there. :lol: Doing a clutch on a boxer isn't like the japanese in-line 4's. Parts are pricey, and it is a big job to do compartively. You basically split the bike in half. Not all that hard, just involved. There is some work being done to convert a VW clutch disc to the boxer, as the are very similar, and about 100X less expensive. Check ADVRider for the info there. A lot of the life of the clutch depends on how much off-road you do.
RBEmerson:
Truth is, BMW really stands for Bring More Wampum. Cost of ownership, compared to "Japanschrott" (hint: a German less than kind term for "rice burners" - Schrott = trash), is higher. OTOH, BMW's with 150K or more on them are not uncommon and 200K+ isn't out of the question. You get what you pay for.
DIY clutch replacement isn't like opening a side cover and replacing the clutch pack in a Japanese bike. As Max Wedge said, the bike is literally split in the middle to get to the clutch. The process isn't simple and it does involve pilot tools, etc. In short, unless you're either a mechanic of some serious skill and/or know "guys who know guys" with said skill (hint: join BMWMOA and look up said "guys who..."), plan on letting a dealer do the job. However, the clutch should last a lot longer than you think (or fear). Again, it depends on how you handle the bike. Neither wind it up and drop the hammer or feather, feather, feather are recommended strategies. :)
BTW, RT and GS are two different animals, albeit both with boxer motors. IMHO, if most of your riding is on pavement, pass on the GS. Yes, people do lots of touring with GS', although (again IMHO) it smacks of using a big SUV to do country roads. It can be done, of course, but why do it?
Since you're coming from a Goldwing, think seriously about a K1300GT or even the K1200GT (the MK I to the K1300GT's MK II and the K1600GT/GTL's MK III). K's are turbine smooth compared the boxer - even a friend who owns an R1200RT but has ridden my K1200RS (RS = rennsport or a little more crotch rockety than the GT albeit with the same basic motor) concedes that point.
atadaskew:
Quote from: jaxxsun on April 29, 2012, 01:28:51 PM
I am doing the usual indepth and over the top, research for my next Bike. I am coming off a Goldwing.
What Wing are you coming off?
I had an 1800, and when I test rode an R1200RT I was a bit non-plussed.
As you know, the handling on the 1800 is really good for what it is, and while the R12 felt lighter, the fairing mass and width in front of you exaggerated its size.
The R12 did/does have much better suspension though, while the Wing had more and a much smoother motor and transmission package.
Test ride and see...
atadaskew:
Quote from: the frenchman on April 30, 2012, 11:03:07 AM
The clutch I put in the R1200 GS was ~$200 and at ~40,000 miles it had plenty of meat left on it. The only reason I changed it was because the clutch was soaked with lube thanks to a leaking seal at the back of the gearbox.
Yeah... I'm not sure if that was re-assuring or not.
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