Reusable Oil Filter

[Moto Morphin Power Ranger]

In the back of my mind along with the Kat Denning thoughts i was wondering about the many reusable oil filters. So much so i did some looking around. It seems like they are as fiercely debated as car tires on bikes. So i would like to bring the debate here.

The one that has come up the most is the pc racing flo oil filter.
motorcycle-superstore.com 19 users gave it 5 out of 5
motosport.com 4 users gave it a 5 out of 5
bikebandit.com 4 users gave it a 5 out of 5
so it's popular with the everyday people who got it. Web bike world had good things to say about it as well, but admitted more tests should/would be conducted.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/flo-oil-filter/
I guess my question is what do you guys think? I am in no way committed to the oem but i don't want to set my baby up for a premature end.

Thanks  

[919]

I would be willing to try one out, I'll consider it on my next oil change.  If I can find one for under $80 at the time then almost certainly.

[Cablebandit]

Seems like it would be messy.  A 40,000 + mile break even point makes it even less desirable.

[Windblown]

I'm sticking with paper filters. I like having a nice clean filter to drop in without having to clean an old one. I like having a fresh rubber seal on the filter each time I change one as well. I don't know if stainless filters are even ISO rated. If not they probably void any warranty if that matters.

[Slartibartfast]

I've been running one for a few years now with no issues. It came with a spare gasket but I haven't needed it yet. The mesh seems to be doing it's job, as does the uber magnet that is embedded in the billet. I like not having to worry about remembering to stock up on filters 'cause I change my oil a lot (not interested in debating that point, I've heard the arguments and don't care - frequent changing is cheap insurance when using Rotella) and the filter has paid for itself several times now. I also REALLY like the fact that it has a hex machined into the end for a wrench.

[Mydlyfkryzis]

For racing, which has frequent engine tear downs, and an interest in reducing parasitic horsepower, a "Strainer"
 type filter seems o.k. to me. A race engine is often at redline, or near it, and low pressure drop is good in this case

However, the strainer does not filter as well as a good paper element. In addition, my street bike is rarely at redline, and if the higher pressure drop paper filter occassionaly bypasses under that condition, the overall cleanliness of the oil makes up for the very few time a bypass event occurs.
Plus, it is still easier just to replace the spin-on filter, and not have to make sure it is thoroughly clean. At $8 a filter (I use the K&N, Wally world has Frams even cheaper), the payback in time and money just isn't there. My company charges $150 Hr. for my time.  If it takes 15 minutes to clean the re-usable filter, it would never have any payback at that rate.

Along the same line, I added a paper element fuel filter, as the screen strainer, in my opinion, still lets too many larger particles through.

Because a device is used for racing, doesn't make it suitable or even desirable for street use.  

[Moto Morphin Power Ranger]

so does it filter better?  

now here is the tech stuff i don't really understand. just asking, is this more product (sales) BS? or is there any truth to be found?
"PC Racing claims that the filter has 200% more filter area than a typical filter, along with a flow rate up to 7 times higher"

"The surgical grade (claimed) 304 stainless steel mesh filter media in the Flo Oil Filters is rated to filter down to 35 micron size particles. One micron is a millionth of a meter, or 1/25,400 of an inch. 30 microns is about the size of maybe your typical speck of dust or a mold spore. A grain of sand is about 100 to 2,000 microns.

The key point here is that the stainless steel media filters down to this size consistently across the entire surface area. Mass-market motorcycle filters are mostly unrated, because of the way they're constructed, with all sorts of holes and passageways through the media that are not consistently sized or shaped at all.

Now I have seen synthetic media (non-automotive) filters that filter down to a claimed 0.8 microns in size, but you also have to consider the pressures and viscosity of motorcycle oil. I doubt very much that an 0.8 micron (or anything close) filter will hold when a motorcycle full of 20W50 is started up on a 40-degree morning!

UPDATE: Many traditional filter manufacturers either make no claims for the particle filtration size in microns. Also, there are "single pass" claims (filtering oil with one pass through the media) and "multiple pass" claims (more than one pass through the media). We checked the K&N website (no claims); Wix filters (claim 25 microns) and Fram (20 microns with multiple pass). Other sources say that any manufacturer's claims may be suspect.

Also, there are several factors to consider, including the filter capacity, the total amount of contaminants trapped between oil changes, oil pressure differentials at varying speeds and temperatures and more. So oil filter performance seems to be based on more than just a claimed particle filtration size.

UPDATE #2: PC Racing (maker of the Flo Oil Filter) sent this information: "The FLO Oil Filters are rated on an absolute (1 pass) system. Because of the inconsistencies of paper, they are rated on a multi pass system that allows particles 3 times the rated size (i.e. 60 microns) to pass once. What that means is a 35 micron stainless filter usually filters better than a 20 micron paper filter."

[JSharp]

There's more to filter specs than their nominal micron rating. That's why it's called 'nominal.' Beta ratings are used and those will tell you how the filter performs multi-pass which is a realistic way to look at it.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/564/filter-beta-ratios

It's a stretch to state that a filter with an absolute 35 micron rating will somehow filter better than one with a nominal 20 micron rating. It might, or it might not. And it might depend on your definition of 'filter better' since particles of under 35 microns are going to pass right through where some portion of those will be caught with a nominal 20 micron conventional filter.

Mydlyfkryzis's comment about racing parts on street vehicles is right on. I have a few 'racing' filters around here. They seem to have a few characteristics in common. A heavy case that will take high pressure surges without bursting and looser filter media that allows higher low rates with lower pressure drop. Nothing wrong with the heavy case on a street vehicle but the open media is is not a good thing.

I'll stick with paper and be happy. I have filter cutter so I can look inside a used filter if I want. If not I can pitch it and not waste 15 minutes cleaning the thing every time I change oil.


 

[JonS]

Seems like it would be messy.  

Just change oil the regular way is usually messy enough for me.

[Moto Morphin Power Ranger]

machinerylubrication.com states that a "Nominal Rating A nominal rating is an arbitrary micrometer value indicated by the filter manufacturer." and Arbitrary is Based on random choice or personal whim, rather than any reason or system. So the mfg could be flubbing the #. So this does not help us.

The FLO Oil Filters are rated on an absolute (1 pass) system.
machinerylubrication.com states Absolute Rating An absolute rating is the diameter of the largest solid spherical particle that will pass through a filter under specified conditions. This is an indication of the largest opening in the filter element.

but the nominal and absolute ratings are not supported by industry standards, so we are s.o.l again.

The FLO filter has not been subjected to the same test the paper filters we all know and love have been. So there is no way to really compare the two filters.

Well at least i know more about filter testing.  
Back to Kat

[Carbonero]

Seems like it would be messy.  A 40,000 + mile break even point makes it even less desirable.

+1

[Andrew]

Whats the cost of this "reusable filter" compared to say brand X filter?

Seriously, most filters can be had on the cheap and even the cheap ones do a fare job...

[Cablebandit]

Whats the cost of this "reusable filter" compared to say brand X filter?

 

[Moto Morphin Power Ranger]

The reusable prices on the Name Brand* is between $89.99 to $132.99
normal $3.00 to $12.00




*Name Brand is ones that have some research and testing done and the info on there websites.

[black hills]

so is better really important? has anyone ever had an engine failure related to poor filtering? If your surrent filter is doing a good enough job why do you need better? How do the reusable ones work after a few cleanings? to me it is easier to use a paper filter and toss it at the oil change.
As for service times are you going to buy two reusables to keep oil change times low or are you going to clean it when you change the oil?
I've looked at them, specifically Scott's, and decided just to stick with the paper filters...

[Carbonero]

so is better really important? has anyone ever had an engine failure related to poor filtering? If your surrent filter is doing a good enough job why do you need better? How do the reusable ones work after a few cleanings? to me it is easier to use a paper filter and toss it at the oil change.
As for service times are you going to buy two reusables to keep oil change times low or are you going to clean it when you change the oil?
I've looked at them, specifically Scott's, and decided just to stick with the paper filters...

ditto...

Filters, like SOOOO many other things, are a balance. Paper filters do just fine. If the media filters too small, they'll clog. If the media filters too large, it doesn't filter enough. The filter companies have been doing this a long, long time, and I'm sure even the receptionist at any filter company knows more about filtering than you, and I and all the EOEs around here.

I buy commercially-available, disposable, paper-based filters for $5-$12 each, and don't give them a second thought.

The people I don't understand are the ones who change their filter every second or third oil change. THAT is just plain dumb.

[Cablebandit]

The people I don't understand are the ones who change their filter every second or third oil change. THAT is just plain dumb.

Some owners manual give that as the recommended interval.  It doesn't make sense to me either since you're already in there getting dirty.

[Windblown]

The people I don't understand are the ones who change their filter every second or third oil change. THAT is just plain dumb.

As mentioned above some manufacturers recomend a new filter every two oil changes, not every change. Filter changes have to do with the level of particle contanminants in the oil. Oil changes are about replenishing oil that has broken down and no longer offering peak lubrication qualities.

On my dirt bikes I change the filters with every oil change because of the high level of contaminants involved in running in a dirty enviroment and heavy clutch usage. With on-road bikes I typically change the filter every other oil change because the reason I'm changing the oil has to do with lubrication breakdown, not particle contaminants. I change my oil frequently and it comes out almost as clear as when it went in. What would be dumb would be changing a perfectly good oil filter. Heck changing it every other oil change is probably overkill.

[Carbonero]

As mentioned above some manufacturers recomend a new filter every two oil changes, not every change. Filter changes have to do with the level of particle contanminants in the oil. Oil changes are about replenishing oil that has broken down and no longer offering peak lubrication qualities.

On my dirt bikes I change the filters with every oil change because of the high level of contaminants involved in running in a dirty enviroment and heavy clutch usage. With on-road bikes I typically change the filter every other oil change because the reason I'm changing the oil has to do with lubrication breakdown, not particle contaminants. I change my oil frequently and it comes out almost as clear as when it went in. What would be dumb would be changing a perfectly good oil filter. Heck changing it every other oil change is probably overkill.

No.  

But ok. Enjoy.

"Dirty" oil isn't just about the color.

[Windblown]

No.  

But ok. Enjoy.

"Dirty" oil isn't just about the color.

As I said, filters are about particle contaminants. Some motors tend to create a high level of contaminates in a short period of time, others do not. I'm not an expert, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn once, and even made a living turing wrenches on motors from time to time. But if you have an expert opinion about filters purpose being other than to trap particulates I'm all ears.