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Topic: Mississippi and Alabama recommendations, please.  (Read 2459 times)

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vulcanbill
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« on: July 04, 2012, 10:33:20 AM »

In order to bag the last 2 states in the CONUS, we're thinking about a trip to Mississippi and Alabama.  We'd be taking the trailer (travel trailer style rv thing) so it will be a touristy kind of trip.  We'll have about 9 days of time off and 4 of those will be drive days.  So, what would you recommend in either or both of these states?  I'd kinda like to see Montgomery just for the history but otherwise, we're pretty open to suggestion.  Good BBQ and catfish are always a draw and we'll be hitting the DD&D website for good eats but what would you tell someone to go see, do or otherwise experience in Mississippi and Alabama?  Coming from MD so any good recommendations for routing also appreciated.  Prelim thoughts are down through TN to hit Nashville and Memphis then south to wherever and back across the 2 states and up through Atlanta.  Kim wants to see some plantations.

I know it will be hot and probably not terribly exciting but it must be done.  Think beginning of Sept if that matters.  Not seeing a lot of state parks for camping.

What do you say, oh proper southerners?  

BillO
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« on: July 04, 2012, 10:33:20 AM »

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« Reply #1 on: July 05, 2012, 08:40:52 AM »

Montgomery is not a town worth spending any time in. I found it to be pretty crappy in almost every way. I found Alabama in general to be pretty crappy when I lived there. The highlights are of course the Barber Vintage Motorcycle Museum (a must see in my opinion) in Leeds, AL outside Birmingham as well as more than a couple pretty great BBQ joints. Big Bob Gibson's in Decatur and Dreamland BBQ are two popular favorites although personally I think Dreamland has gone down hill in recent years. I have not been in many years but the NASA U.S. Space and Rocket Center in Huntsville is rather cool.

Mississippi as some neat spots for sure. I enjoyed my time in Natchez, MS and also enjoyed a short bit of time in Jackson. Plenty of plantation homes and antebellum homes to tour. There are some that operate as B&B's as well. I really enjoy the Southern end of the Natchez Trace Parkway as well as the Northern end of the Parkway in TN. The middle section is not worth much time honestly. For the Southern end think Spanish Moss draped canopies of trees over the road. Find yourself some old school Tamale Shacks for a bit of a different dining experience http://www.tamaletrail.com/ oh and there is Borroum's as well http://borroumsdrugstore.net/

Skip Memphis unless you have something you really wanted to see there. Completely shit town. There is little to any quality BBQ left in Memphis. Beale Street is a tourist trap and most of the history there has been covered up with commercialization. I lived in Memphis and the surrounding area for 10 years and have not missed it a day since I moved away. When I do go back to visit family I find it is worse every year. Hot, humid, dirty, run down, and with an almost complete lack of any real culture. Older areas are in sad shape and newer areas are stop light after stop light of strip mall chain commercialization. Heck even the famous Peabody Hotel is run down with water stained ceiling panels and dingy hallways. Honestly I find Montgomery, AL to be much like Memphis in many ways.
« Last Edit: July 05, 2012, 08:52:23 AM by Jason F. » Logged

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« Reply #2 on: July 05, 2012, 08:46:26 AM »

Oh if you do make it through Nashville and want some BBQ try and look up Martin's BBQ Joint in Nolensville, TN (South Nashville). Some of the best BBQ in Tennessee and one of a shrinking number of places that still does whole hog BBQ. They primarily do the whole hog on Fridays and Saturdays. They were a little better when they were a hole in the wall shack down the road but the new building does have more room. They have some local beers on tap as well.
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« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2012, 07:15:37 AM »

I would say if you want some history of the south you should definitly go down the Natchez trace.

Very scenic with lots of historical markers and stops along the way, but can be slow. 50MPH limit.

However, once you get to Natchez, should you decide to go that far, there are many plantations, including the octagonal Longwood.
Vicksburg which is on I20 right on the Ms river, there is a very large civil war cemetary/ battlegound. There are several casinos on the river if you're interested, some have pretty good food too.

Foodwise, pretty much any small place, where the cook is a large black woman, will be good. I can think of nowhere specific in either Vicksburg or Natchez that is outstanding, I just don't go there enough.

If you go through Greenville, you must stop at Doe's eat place. Fantastic food there. It is in a bad part of town and may be difficult to find, but worth the effort.

Nearby in Indianola there is a good BB king museum and further up 61 in clarksdale there are many good blues clubs.

If you happen to stop in Jackson, DO NOT stay in the motels along I-55 unless they are on the east side of the highway. The west side of 55 is known for thefts, drugs and prostitution.

There are many good places to eat in Jackson, depending on what you like. For Italian I would recommend Amerigo's, Steaks - Shapley's, Seafood - AJ's, catfish Penns fish house, Hamburgers - 5 guy's, Southern food - MaMa Hamil's.

These restaurants are all located in North Jackson, very close to the Trace.
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« Reply #4 on: July 07, 2012, 05:50:44 PM »

If you do the Natchez Trace Parkway, note that it is a National Park and 10 mph over the limit can get you a reckless driving ticket because of that. It has a nice rhythm and entices you to go well over the speed limit if there's no traffic. Also, the northern parts have plenty of wildlife if you are out between dusk and dawn. I've only been on the northern part down to about Tupelo, MS and the last time was 15-20 years ago, so I don't know if it has gotten better or worse, but I enjoyed it when there was no traffic and found it frustrating when it was crowded. Only met the park rangers once, got let got with a verbal warning.
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« Reply #5 on: July 09, 2012, 11:51:20 AM »

I definitely agree going to Leeds, AL shouldn't be a missed opportunity.  Next door you have the Bass Pro Shop.  The Barber Museum is definitely a must-see.  If you get as far north as Huntsville (I live just north of here closer to the TN state line), and you're looking for the best bbq, look no further than the Chuckwagon.  It's on Madison BLVD from I-565.  It's in the city of Madison, just west of Huntsville.  Here's the details:

Chuckwagon BBQ
8982 Madison Boulevard, Madison, AL
(256) 772-5179

If you go on a week day, be sure you're there by 10:30am as the line is usually way out the door by 11am - literally.  But then, you probably wouldn't want to hazard a try if no one was there, would you?  8^)

Off of I-565 you also have the Space & Rocket Center which is worth a trip.  Lots of NASA stuff and the IMAX movie theater.

Another worthwhile area is Monte Sano mountain.  I love to hike and there are several trails to choose from as you make your way up the mountain.  

Or, you can PM me and I can give you my contact information and provide even more things for you to see and do, depending on your interests.
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« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2012, 12:40:37 PM »

.................. I found Alabama in general to be pretty crappy when I lived there. ..............................


coming from someone who lives in Smyrna.    Snort..... Twofinger

anyway. Barbers Museum over in Leeds is the highlight of the Great State of Alabama if you ride a motorcycle.

On the subject of BBQ. I have found the best stuff comes from little shacks in one horse towns. Roll your window down and stop when you smell the smoke. Odds are you will not be disappointed.

If you are coming through Nashville you might as well stop by the Jack Daniels Dystillery in Lynchburg. It is well worth the stop.

A word about the Trace. If you are in an RV. It really would be a good choice. It is chock full of history from one end to the other. There are no stop signs or traffic lights for the entire 444 miles and no comercial traffic. It is an easy scenic drive. Be sure to plan for gas early as there are zero services on the Trace itself.

Google the Ruins of Windsor for a cool stop in MS not far off the Trace.

I can come up with dozens of small but fun stops if you are interested. Post up in the affirmative and I will give it a go.
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« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2012, 12:40:37 PM »


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vulcanbill
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« Reply #7 on: July 09, 2012, 01:08:14 PM »

Go and go.  I'll take that contact info offer as well.  We didn't do Arkansas right and still regret it.  I don't want that to be the case for this trip.  Thanks very much.  So hungry for BBQ.  
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« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2012, 09:25:09 PM »


Google the Ruins of Windsor for a cool stop in MS not far off the Trace.


It is in Port Gibson, Ms which is on 61 south of Vicksburg. There are many good roads in the area if you are on bikes. If not, they are also quite scenic with moss covered trees and masses of Kudzu.
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« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2012, 04:45:22 AM »

If you've only got 4 driving days, then you won't have a lot of time to take the scenic route.  You'll be limited to mostly interstate.  On the way down you could take side trips to Pigeon Forge if you want a little fun tourist trap kind of place or to Oak Ridge out by Knoxville.  This is a fun little diversion off I-81 that takes < 1 hour: http://www.roadsideamerica.com/story/9209 in western Virginia.  They also have a "haunted house" that is open seasonally (may be open now).

Huntsville has the Rocket Center.  If I had to choose between the Rocket Center and Barber, I would choose Barber -- and I'm a space nut.   The museum is that good.

Vicksburg and Natchez will give you a feel for historical Mississippi.  Oxford in north Mississippi has a nice square, and it would be a good way to spend an hour or two and maybe a meal.

I don't agree with the assessment of Memphis above, but I drive up there and don't live in town.  The Memphis Fire Museum is pretty good, but small. Mud Island is interesting.  Nashville is definitely the better tourist city.

Be aware that many stores and restaurants in smaller towns in Mississippi will be closed on Sundays and there are still blue laws and dry counties down here.
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« Reply #10 on: July 10, 2012, 07:02:36 AM »


If you happen to stop in Jackson, DO NOT stay in the motels along I-55 unless they are on the east side of the highway. The west side of 55 is known for thefts, drugs and prostitution.

There are many good places to eat in Jackson, depending on what you like. For Italian I would recommend Amerigo's, Steaks - Shapley's, Seafood - AJ's, catfish Penns fish house, Hamburgers - 5 guy's, Southern food - MaMa Hamil's.

These restaurants are all located in North Jackson, very close to the Trace.

Better yet, don't stay in Jackson. If you're looking for a place to stay around that area, find a place in Clinton or Ridgeland. The trace pass through both towns.

For Hamburgers you can try The Trace Grill. I liked Hamil's better before it became "THE" place to go, but it's still good southern cooking.



Windsor Ruins are easier to get to if you exit the trace onto MS-552. Head west 10 miles and it's on your right. If you're stopping in that area and need some food, head east one mile on MS-552 after exiting the trace, then one mile south on Hwy-61 and hit up the Old Country Store for some chicken.

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« Reply #11 on: July 10, 2012, 07:02:46 AM »

Good stuff, guys.  Thanks.  

We tend to be more outdoorsy types vs attraction types.  For example, Pigeon Forge is a place to drive through if you have to, and to be avoided if you don't have to.  Anywhere that has traffic  that is a topic of regular discussion is generally off the list of want to do.  We live and work in the vicinity of 270, 495, 95 etc so the last think I want to do on any vacation, is deal with traffic.  

We don't necessarily "only" have 4 driving days.  If the journey is better than the destination, as it sometimes is even on more than 2 wheels, we can modify plans.  There is no set itinerary yet so if there's more fun stuff en route than there is there, we'll modify.  Right now, it looks like the camping options are kinda limited unless there's something I don't know.  We're looking for state parks but if y'all have really nice county parks that offer camping or something along those lines, we'll definitely have a look at those as well.  We had really good luck in WA state w/ some county parks.  Also, multiple locations are fine as we are drivers and set up and tear down take about 15 minutes for us.  We're pretty streamlined for the "rv" crowd.  So if there are some really great places that are a few hours apart, we're not opposed to just relocating for the next night.  

Barber is definiltely on the list.  Kim will do well there too.  Should I book a couple hours or a whole day there?  Smile

And we will be hitting some BBQ joints and I'm hoping for some really good proper southern catfish.   Drool
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« Reply #12 on: July 10, 2012, 10:41:45 AM »


And we will be hitting some BBQ joints and I'm hoping for some really good proper southern catfish.   Drool



The original Dreamland BBQ in Tuscaloosa is pretty good. The best BBQ I've had in Ms was at Leatha's in Hattiesburg, which I think is kinda off your route, but if your within 50 miles, its probably worth a detour. Otherwise, Sonney's isn't all that bad for a chain BBQ joint.

The best catfish in Jackson to me is either Cock of the Walk on the reservior(try the pickled onions or fried dill pickles) or Penn's catfish house. Penn's is a small chain, but on a good day makes some dam fine fish.

I will second the nomination for the old country store on 61. Phenominal fried chicken.
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« Reply #13 on: July 10, 2012, 10:51:33 AM »

Taylor Grocery just south of Oxford, MS for catfish.  Get there early (5:30 pm) or be prepared to wait for hours.

Army Corps of Engineers has established campsites at Lake Sardis, Lake Enid, and Lake Grenada.

Lots of places to stop along the Trace, and it is pretty.  A good drive, especially in an RV.

Consider stopping at Shiloh National Battlefield if you are heading as far northwest as Memphis.  You could drive through Corinth heading south and then swing by Lake Hill Motors, http://www.lakehillmotors.com/.  They have a small museum (1 room) of motorcycles in the back.  It's NOT Barber, but it's neat to see if you're in the area (not worth a special trip).

As for Pigeon Forge -  Shrug - it's fun for what it is.  Definitely not outdoorsy but there are fun family attractions.
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« Reply #13 on: July 10, 2012, 10:51:33 AM »


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« Reply #14 on: July 10, 2012, 11:27:39 AM »

I forgot to mention they've closed down a 7+ mile stretch of the Trace between Hwy-49 north of Clinton and I-55 west of Ridgeland. They've got a lot of detour signs up.
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« Reply #15 on: July 10, 2012, 12:55:53 PM »

as requested.  


Cook Pest Control Museum - Decatur, AL
http://www.cookspest.com/education/museum/

Ave Maria Grotta - Cullman, AL
http://www.avemariagrotto.com/

Dismals Canyon, Phil Campbell, AL
http://www.dismalscanyon.com/

Coondog Cemetary, Cherokee, AL
http://www.coondogcemetery.com/

Rock Zoo, Hollywood, AL
http://www.oocities.org/heartland/estates/8834/rock.html

Little River Canyon, Fort Payne, AL
http://www.nps.gov/liri/index.htm

Noccalula Falls, Gadsden, AL
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g30549-d264873-Reviews-Noccalula_Falls_Park_Campground-Gadsden_Alabama.html

Old Greenbrier Restaurant, Greenbrier, AL
http://oldgreenbrier.com/

Veterans Museum, Athens, AL
http://www.alabamaveteransmuseum.com/

Flying Monkey/Lowe Mill Artist Market, Huntsville, AL
http://www.lowemill.net/

Blue Pants Microbrewery, Madison, AL
http://bluepantsbrew.com/

Straight to Ale Microbrewery, Huntsville, AL
http://www.straighttoale.com/

Tannehill Iron Works, McCalla, AL
http://www.tannehill.org/

Indian Mounds, Moundville, AL
http://moundville.ua.edu/

Jesse Owens Museum, Oakville, AL
http://www.jesseowensmuseum.org/

Indian Mounds, Oakville, AL
http://www.oakvilleindianmounds.com/

Battleship Alabama, Mobile, AL
http://www.ussalabama.com/

Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile, AL
http://www.bellingrath.org/
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« Reply #16 on: July 10, 2012, 03:28:54 PM »


as requested.  


Straight to Ale Microbrewery, Huntsville, AL



Straight to Ale has some good stuff and don't forget Good People Brewing in Birmingham, some good stuff there as well.

Oh and have you ever actually been to Smyrna? Considered one of the nicest places to live in Middle TN by more than a few people along with Rutherford County in general. Close enough to Nashville for work, shopping, reasturants, and entertainment but not in Davidson County where taxes are higher and services are lower.
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« Reply #17 on: July 10, 2012, 09:02:47 PM »

Have you thought about visiting south Mississippi?  We've got a bunch of casinos you could check out.  I found a helpful link for you to browse through:

http://www.gulfcoast.org/events/

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« Reply #18 on: July 11, 2012, 07:25:00 AM »


Have you thought about visiting south Mississippi?  We've got a bunch of casinos you could check out.  I found a helpful link for you to browse through:

http://www.gulfcoast.org/events/




I have thought about it.  About as far away as I can get on this trip.  And of course the weather will have a vote when we get closer.  Not too interested in pulling a 31 foot featherweight trailer around there if there's anything swirley coming off the water.  That's actually why we missed MI and AL on our AR trip last year.  There was a nasty storm coming up and we headed north instead of staying south.

We're not really casino types but there are some great activities listed in that link.  Thank you.  It will be used in the planning of our trip.  
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« Reply #19 on: July 13, 2012, 08:22:19 PM »

You're welcome and I hope you have a good time when you get here.  
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