Best way to repair a broken plastic fairing tab

[Mookie]

At some point this winter, I noticed that one of the mounting tabs for the side fairing on my SuperDuke had broken.  Could have been the shop I took it to or something, I don't know, it's definitely never been dropped so it remains a mystery.  That's moot, but I'd like to repair it rather than buy a whole side fairing just for a little broken tab.  I still have the tab end of it and was thinking some sort of epoxy might work.

Is there a specific type of epoxy or preparation needed for it to work long term?

[Justin]

I've used JB weld to fix them before and it lasted for years. Stronger than the original most likely. Probably still good - just don't have the bike anymore.

Also, when I did mine, I used some screen pieces to wrap around the tabs, to supply more area for the epoxy to hold.

[Kneescrubber]

I've used JB weld to fix them before and it lasted for years. Stronger than the original most likely. Probably still good - just don't have the bike anymore.

Also, when I did mine, I used some screen pieces to wrap around the tabs, to supply more area for the epoxy to hold.

Same here. Pretty amazing stuff.

[Andrew]

I use a flat bladed soldering iron and plastic welding sticks purchased at harbor junk. Sort of a poor mans plastic welding kit.

Works quite well, only bad part is the fumes as the plastic melts. Nasty stuff, best to do it out doors with a mild breeze at your back.

[DosEquis00]

I've used JB weld to fix them before and it lasted for years. Stronger than the original most likely. Probably still good - just don't have the bike anymore.

Also, when I did mine, I used some screen pieces to wrap around the tabs, to supply more area for the epoxy to hold.

This is strong stuff but use the regular JB Weld and not the Kwik as it will hold up much better with the vibration of the bike.

[Mrs. DantesDame]

I've drilled holes in the plastic and ran a zip tie through it. Works great  

[KLRchickie]

I've drilled holes in the plastic and ran a zip tie through it. Works great  

  KLR owner  

[ianbh]

I've used this stuff with good results.  Ian, Iowa

http://plastex.net/

[Mookie]

I've drilled holes in the plastic and ran a zip tie through it. Works great  

Bent up coat hangers work better as a more permanent solution  


Thanks the tips folks!

[JonS]

I've used JB weld to fix them before and it lasted for years. Stronger than the original most likely. Probably still good - just don't have the bike anymore.

Also, when I did mine, I used some screen pieces to wrap around the tabs, to supply more area for the epoxy to hold.

I use JB Weld "Quick" Epoxy for that kind of stuff. Works great and starts setting up after 15 minutes. I fixed 5 fairing mounts, after a crash and they all held.

[1moreroad]

If there is enough surface area, you could use a fiberglass repair kit from an auto parts store.

[dietDrThunder]

I've used this stuff with good results.  Ian, Iowa

http://plastex.net/

This stuff is miles better than any alternative that I've ever tried or heard about, apart form Plastifix, which is pretty much the same stuff I think. They're both very good.

[Giaka]

Normal JB weld is fantastic stuff. If you live close to a boating supply place there is stuff called MarineTex that's even better.

Depending on the size and thickness of the plastic I have had great success taking short pieces of welding rod or wire coat hanger and heating them with a torch and laying them across the broken plastic pieces. Press the wire into the plastic while its hot so that its flush and buried in the plastic. Obviously you do this on the back side unless you like the Frankenstein look. Then follow this fix up with a light application of JB Weld or MarineTex. Its usually a permanent fix.

[coucours grad]

Normal JB weld is fantastic stuff. If you live close to a boating supply place there is stuff called MarineTex that's even better.

Depending on the size and thickness of the plastic I have had great success taking short pieces of welding rod or wire coat hanger and heating them with a torch and laying them across the broken plastic pieces. Press the wire into the plastic while its hot so that its flush and buried in the plastic. Obviously you do this on the back side unless you like the Frankenstein look. Then follow this fix up with a light application of JB Weld or MarineTex. Its usually a permanent fix.

+1   My C10 was pieced back together in this manner....one broke panel at a time!

[jesse v]

Use a soldering iron to "tack weld" the 2 pieces together, then use your soldering iron to melt a zip-tie along the length of the crack for reinforcement.  

In this pick my melted zip-tie is not going along the entire crack, but I later went back and did it all.

[Mookie]

I've tried to repair it multiple times now with the JB weld and the tab keeps snapping off when I try and bolt the side fairing on.  It needs more flex than the JB weld is allowing.  I'm thinking that perhaps a bit of some type of screen material on both sides and wrapping over the tab (with the bolt through it) ought to provide enough support to hold it together.  Even if it snaps, as long as the mesh holds it should be fine.  I like that melted zip tie idea but I'm afraid of melting through the fairing and ruining the visible side.

[Justin]

I'm thinking that perhaps a bit of some type of screen material on both sides and wrapping over the tab (with the bolt through it) ought to provide enough support to hold it together.  Even if it snaps, as long as the mesh holds it should be fine.

Yeah, that's what I usually do, and that's what I said in my first reply.   I used some fine hardware cloth when I did mine.

[jesse v]

I've tried to repair it multiple times now with the JB weld and the tab keeps snapping off when I try and bolt the side fairing on.  It needs more flex than the JB weld is allowing.  I'm thinking that perhaps a bit of some type of screen material on both sides and wrapping over the tab (with the bolt through it) ought to provide enough support to hold it together.  Even if it snaps, as long as the mesh holds it should be fine.  I like that melted zip tie idea but I'm afraid of melting through the fairing and ruining the visible side.

Yeah, it's going to be visible, but it works.  The plastic they make zip ties out of is really flexible and strong.

[AnotherOne]

Plastex kit is much better than anything else out there. It is as strong as original plastic and even allows you to mold replacement tabs and missing pieces.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/plastex-repair-kit/
http://www.plastex.net/

[JSharp]

JB Weld is an epoxy. It's the wrong adhesive to use on most plastics. Fiberglass repair kits with polyester resins aren't much better. I've never used the Plastex kits so I can't comment on those.

What I've found to work well that consumers can buy is this -

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Devcon-Plastic-Welder-mvp-type-11-adhesive-indev-tube-applic/15632447?findingMethod=rr
or
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Devcon-Plastic-Welder-II-50ml-devpak-plastic-welder-ii/15632453

It's an acrylic based adhesive and it's very similar to what we used at Vetter to bond fairing halves together. It's viscous so it fills gaps and is semi-rigid but flexible enough to work with most plastics. If the materials are prepped properly the bond strength with exceed the strength of the substrates.

Some of the Gorilla Glues that are polyurethane based might work well too depending on the material you're bonding.