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Topic: Quick Disconnect replacement Pictorial, and Boss Clamps!  (Read 984 times)

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JimVonBaden
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« on: January 01, 2013, 08:54:03 PM »

QD Change Pictorial!

As promised, I changed out my quick disconnects and added the clamps on the female bosses for the quick disconnects. The following is a pictorial on how it was done. Please feel free to use it, or not, for your personal use.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD42.jpg
Needless to say, I had a full tank of gas when I decided to do this. I used an old male QD and length of hose to drain the tank.

On the 05-07 there is a QD on both the left and right sides, two QDs on the 08-09 left side. The process is the same no matter which bike you have.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD31.jpg
Starting on the left side, remove the large side cover, then the fuel pump cover.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD36.jpg
Pull the power plug to the fuel controller and the plug to the tank level gage. The pop the plastic disconnect loose.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD40.jpg
You can see the cracks on mine. It is not leaking (yet)!

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD44.jpg
Use a 19mm wrench to remove the female QD.

There will be fuel floating in the intake, and some of the sealant will mix with it.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD46.jpg
Remove the fuel and clean the sealant. I used an old acid brush cut tight and shortened the handle to clean it.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD52.jpg
This is clean enough to move forward. Notice the cracks are fairly far down the boss.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD58.jpg
Pre-tighten the clamp so there is just a little slack in the nut/bolt combination, then squeeze it over the plastic boss. Snug it lightly. This is a 2.5mm Allen and a 5.5mm socket or wrench.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD65.jpg
Use some of the supplied sealant to cover the threads of the new female QD as shown. It doesn’t need to be excessive, just this much will do. (Let it sit at least 10 minutes to firm up.)

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD94.jpg
Thread the female QD in and snug it down semi-firmly. Remember, this is plastic you are threading into, and it has sealant. Do NOT over tighten it.

Once you have the QD snugged down, tighten the clamp a bit more. No need to tighten it more than the QD, just semi-firmly. (If you are a gorilla, use two fingers to snug it down!)



I have only a few photos of the next parts.

Use a small standard screwdriver to spread the factory hose clamp. Work it back and forth until it has enough slack to slide the clamp down the hose.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/IMG_6371.jpg
Then take a straight pick and slide it into the male QD between the QD and the hose. (This is critical to loosen up the hose and allow it to come off.) Work it all the way around, then grab the hose with a pair of pliers (I used thick needle nose) and the QD with a pair of standard pliers. Twist and pull until they separate.

Note: If the hose shows any signs of cracking or dry rot, replace it with the appropriate fuel line.

Press in the new male QD, put the new clamp on first, then firmly snug the clamp on the hose. Make sure that you have the QD properly oriented before you tighten it down.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/IMG_6371.jpg
Press in the new male QD to the female QD and install the two electrical plugs.

If you have two in the left side, do the second one before mating the male and female sides and plugging in the electrical plugs.

Note: Completing the right side QD it is critical that you make sure the fuel level is lower than the plug.

If you have right side plugs, please read on.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD5.jpg
Stock QDs on the left side. You can see the cracks in the white plastic plainly.

The process is the same as the left side.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD79.jpg
Unscrew the female QD. Use a 19mm wrench to loosen and remove the female QD.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD80.jpg
The cracks are deep, as you can see there is even air showing through the crack at the 4:00 position. Fortunately this is a return, so less pressure causing leaks.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD85.jpg
Do the same as previously described: Work off the old hose clamp then hose. Then install the new QD, clamp it on, and reinstall it on the female QD.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD109.jpg
Close-up of the newly installed QD’s.

Once both are installed and connected you can fill the tank back up. Non-pressure test will show leaks on the right side if done incorrectly.

Once the non-pressure test shows no leaks, start the bike and check the pressure side (left side) for leaks. Double-check the right side as well.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD107.jpg
These are the tools, and old parts, from my change out.

If no leaks, reinstall the fuel pump cover. Then the side covers. You are done.

Jim Cool

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« on: January 01, 2013, 08:54:03 PM »

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« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2013, 06:38:03 AM »

Jim,
Thought I'd add the source of the clamp http://www.beemerboneyard.com/rk12fuelpmpclmp.html.  Didn't see it on this forum.
Rod
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« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2013, 07:07:46 AM »

Yikes, I'm not liking this design.  Thumbsdown

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD80.jpg

The fuel pump base on my VFR is steel. The banjo end of the fuel hose that attaches to the fuel pump discharge is steel.

If BMW was going to use plastic, at least give us a steel bulkhead fitting of some sort that goes through the plastic.  Crazy
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« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2013, 11:14:40 AM »


Yikes, I'm not liking this design.  Thumbsdown

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD80.jpg

The fuel pump base on my VFR is steel. The banjo end of the fuel hose that attaches to the fuel pump discharge is steel.

If BMW was going to use plastic, at least give us a steel bulkhead fitting of some sort that goes through the plastic.  Crazy


Agreed! Crap design.


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« Reply #4 on: January 02, 2013, 09:17:09 PM »


Yikes, I'm not liking this design.  Thumbsdown

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/Repair%20Vid%20II/GS%20QD%20Pictorial/GSQD80.jpg

The fuel pump base on my VFR is steel. The banjo end of the fuel hose that attaches to the fuel pump discharge is steel.

If BMW was going to use plastic, at least give us a steel bulkhead fitting of some sort that goes through the plastic.  Crazy



Not to worry BMW is sure the bike will make it out of warranty before there will be a problem.

Not very comforting but thats about how the bean counters think of it.

Glad someone found a fix, and this one looks like a good fix Thumbsup
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« Reply #5 on: January 03, 2013, 07:18:49 AM »

Thanks for the post JVB - and the maintenance video too.   Thumbsup
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« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2013, 10:54:32 AM »

Nice fix..!!  Smile

Reminds me of my time with my Daytona 955i and the TPOS quick-disconnect fuel fittings. One of them let go far from home and made for quite the adventure in recovering the bike....

Better replacing with all-metal fittings whilst you still can.
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« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2013, 10:54:32 AM »


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« Reply #7 on: January 03, 2013, 11:05:14 AM »


Nice fix..!!  Smile

Reminds me of my time with my Daytona 955i and the TPOS quick-disconnect fuel fittings. One of them let go far from home and made for quite the adventure in recovering the bike....

Better replacing with all-metal fittings whilst you still can.



I remember gas spraying everywhere on your Daytona at Three Corners.  The day after that ride I rode down to my local Triumph shop and had them change out the fittings on my S3.
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« Reply #8 on: January 03, 2013, 12:36:50 PM »

Hey Jim,

  Are you really back on a GS?   Bigok
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« Reply #9 on: January 03, 2013, 05:55:53 PM »

I also had Triumph replace mine and was dismayed to see that one of the fittings was still
Plastic . I ended  buying an aftermarket set made of all metal, just like the ones Jim fitted to his Beemer.






I remember gas spraying everywhere on your Daytona at Three Corners.  The day after that ride I rode down to my local Triumph shop and had them change out the fittings on my S3.
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« Reply #10 on: February 07, 2013, 11:45:45 AM »


Hey Jim,

  Are you really back on a GS?   Bigok


Sorry for the slow responses.

Yes, back on a GS. This one will last me until I get the new Wethead!  Thumbsup

Jim Cool
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