Mexico!

[phatphil]

Renting a weestrom from Oscar Calderon, mxmotoadv.   Starting from Mexico City and riding for eight days.  Any advice, tips, travel strategies, etc?  Probably stay south, pavement, and avoiding tolls/interstate, if possible.   Riding only during day.

Making up plan as go, mostly.   Bike equipped with GPS, hard cases, local cell, etc.  Have and use full gear.  Taking antibotics and basic first aid kit.  

Mostly interested in what others who have done and what they found worked best for relatively short tour.  Ie: how best to find hotel, eats, going to toilet, anything surprising, etc.  I'm aware of basics riding and stay in Mexico, the traffic style, etc.  
 
Main purpose is to ride and seek twisties.  Safety, incident free is priority. No camping but not seeking luxury accom.  Expecting 6-8 hrs riding/day.  

Done all the Mexico motorcycle searches and readings...
Thanks all in advance!

[Baz]

Be very aware of Topes. (Mexican speed bumps) I know of someone who wrote of a rental car hitting one. I have seen these things 2' high with very rhyme or reason why they were placed there. This picture is not really an exaggeration.



The police love to make extra money off of tourist vehicles.  

Most important Spanish you will ever know "Me gustaría pagar la multa ahora." (I would like to pay the fine now).

[falcofred]

Here are links to a couple of sites that contain more than you need to know.
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/?nocache=1
http://www.advrider.com/forums/

There is so much infor on these sites that if you try to read it all, you'll never leave.
The Horizon Site has links to everything you'll need to get insurance, find accomidations, and recomended sites.

Good luck and have fun.

[X1Glider]

Re: your itinerary, don't make it up as you go.  Make a plan of where you'll be each day and where you're staying each day.  Let someone else know this.  If no one hears from you after a few days or so, they'll know where to look.  Don't go to secluded places like a cozy hideaway on the beach even.  Get from place to place quickly and hang out in populated areas in view of large crowds.  I'm not even sure of stopping for police between towns.  Risky business, I know.  If they are real, they'll keep after you.  If they give up after 5 minutes, they're not.

I know 2 handfuls of people who have had really bad experiences there since late 2007.  Several accosted by police/police impersonators, locals, had vehicles/items stolen and 2 of their girlfriends dragged out of a cafe and gang raped after they were beaten to a pulp.  I haven't crossed the border since 2006 and am fine with keeping it that way.  I work with Mexicans who haven't seen their families over there since then as well.    

I used to like going to Baja peninsula to dirt bike with friends and even across the TX border towards Copper Canyon for DS.  Rode solo to the Yucatan peninsula and to Costa Rica once but about 15 years ago.  Too bad.  I vote with my dollars and stay away now.  I figure if everyone else did as well and their economy tanked even further, they'd clean that shithole up of the cartels and corrupt police forces so it would be more welcoming.  Either they need a strong Military dictator to do that or the USA needs to conquer 50 more miles of it inland, make it our own and clean it up ourselves and we can then claim tax money and such from the 10s of thounds who cross the border each day to work, only to bring that money back to those cesspool border towns.

Ok, I'm done.

[sodapop6620]

http://www.stromtrooper.com/mexico/50539-coming-mexico.html

Helpful hints and tips.

[miles]

Take walking shoes and see the ruins.  Teotehuacan is absolutely incredible, as is Monte Alban (if you're heading to Oaxaca).  Guanajuato is an amazing city- check out the cathedral and the museum of mummies.  San Miguel De Allende is also an incredible colonial city and well worth the time.

As far as personal safety is concerned, don't worry too much but do keep an eye out, just as you would in any unknown area.  I've spent a whole lot of time in Mexico over the years and I'd have no qualms about the trip you describe.  That said, daily blog updates or some such is a good idea to keep everyone apprised of your travels.

[Mrs. DantesDame]

Enjoy!  

I did a long trip through Mexico and can give you a couple of pointers:

- toilets: gas stations will have them, but be prepared with your own toilet paper (EVERYWHERE!)
- don't flush the paper anywhere you go
- Oaxaca is beautiful - enjoy the market
- Hostal Casa del Sol in Oaxaca. Very nice and cheap hostel. They encouraged me to park my bike in the lobby (which is actually the case wherever I stayed)
- Puerto Escondido and Puerto Angel are very nice beach-side quiet little places. Nice accommodations. (I preferred Puerto Angel)
- The road between Oaxaca and Puerto Angel (RT 175) is fantastic, but can be in very bad shape. Watch carefully where you ride
- Chapala (south of of Guadalajara) is a nice place to stop
- Rt 54 north out of Guadalajara is a nice road
- Zacatecas is a nice town with lots of well-kept buildings. A guy named Fernando runs a motorcycle motel in town. PM if you want his information.
- Zihuatanjo: very colorful town with a lot to do, right on the water.

Here is my ride report if you wanted to check it out. Feel free to let me know if you have specific questions.


Village of Nexpa, west of Zihuatanjo.

[phatphil]

Read Mrs' ride report before.  Actually was one of the encouraging factors.  Will likely be travelling south of Mexico City from reading everything I can and being informed.  Any and all tips hugely appreciated as are specific roads and places.  Just a relatively short tour.   Thanks again!

[SoCalFJR]

Phil........Airline crews no longer overnight in Mexico........one day turnaround trips only.......my son is a pilot and whenever he hits Mexico City the crew never leaves the airport.  Went down to San Diego a couple years ago with my son to pick up a cycle part from a dirt bike guy.  Got to talking with him and he said he and his buddies had been going to MEX for years.  On one trip a couple of the guys had gotten lost and of course a flat tire soon followed.  They saw a farm house down the road.  Thinking it might be easier to do a change there one guy went toward the closed gate out in front of the farm house.  As he walked up to the gate a guy walked out with a .22 rifle and shot him in the chest.  No words no warning no nothing.  The other guy heard the shot and ran up and drug him back down the road.  His jacket apparently helped save his life, and eventually the other guys came riding up and got them all out of there.  That was the last trip to Mexico. It's no joke down there these days.  Take it fwiw.    

[SoCalFJR]

Phil........addendum........my post obviously does not pertain to the major resort spots in Mexico, which are safe simply out of the national interest.

Dump the idea of "off the beaten track" it does not exist.  My son made two trips down the Baja with 3 other experienced pilots on the first trip, and an additional non-pilot fluent spanish speaker on the second.  They were headed out across the trackless scrub brush wasteland towards a seaside resort on the second trip. Sitting literally out in the middle of nowhere was a dark colored stake bed pickup with 7-8 guys huddled around it, with a tent set up nearby.  The five riders tip toed by these guys about a quarter mile away hoping to not attract much attention.  That wasn't going to work as the pickup soon sped up behind them with the lights flashing and AK-47's bristling.........they all piled out of the truck and started walking over........finally the head guy barked out something in spanish.  The dirt biker of hispanic origin answered him in fluent spanish and the mood changed instantly.  Smiles and introductions broke out all around and it was a non-event.  There were no illusions that at the very least wallets would have been lighter if the hispanic rider wouldn't have been present.............

The odds of you not making it back are miniscule.........and most likely you will have a great time......this is just a couple of stories to let you know your head should be on a swivel at all times.  If you're a pasty white gringo with no habla espanol you are a braver one than I..........

Now have a great trip!..................

[miles]

Phil........Airline crews no longer overnight in Mexico........one day turnaround trips only.......my son is a pilot and whenever he hits Mexico City the crew never leaves the airport.  

Why would they?  The hotel is the top couple of floors of the main terminal.




As a side note, we just got our tickets for a week in the Mexico City area.  We are going to rent a car and show my kid some ruins, Colonial Cities and so on.  My wife and I are looking forward to it.

[Mrs. DantesDame]

My wife and I are looking forward to it.

Have a great time!

[sleazy rider]

I wouldn't hesitate to head south, but get the hell out of the border zone stat.  The ruta de Copper Canyon is having some bandito issues as well.

[bubba zanetti]

We have been gong to Mexico for years and as stated above, I would give a wide berth to boarder towns and certain hot spots, I have never felt unsafe traveling with our daughter and would undertake a trip from Mexico City by bike in a heartbeat if I could.

Our preferred area is Yucatan, Quintana Roo .. but there is much to see in this lovely country.

Enjoy !!

[miles]

Have a great time!

We will.  Of course, life is a bit easier since we both speak fluent Spanish and both of us have travelled extensively, but seriously- Mexico is one of my favorite countries to visit.

Hell, I even don't mind driving in Mexico City!

[SoCalFJR]

Why would they?  The hotel is the top couple of floors of the main terminal.




As a side note, we just got our tickets for a week in the Mexico City area.  We are going to rent a car and show my kid some ruins, Colonial Cities and so on.  My wife and I are looking forward to it.

Miles.......they don't overnight at ANY city in Mexico.........presumably out of an abundance of caution.......

[phatphil]

Any and all words highly appreciated!   Not going anywhere near border and mostly south east of Mexico City.  No travel advisories in any of that area, it seems.  Won't be going onto private private property or knocking on doors unless utterly desperate.  Only be an 8 day trip and just trying to get more idea of character of riding and expectations.  Like what type of towns to find hotel, eats, traffic, mountain weather, gas stops.  Or any tips that experiences there on bike will be like.   Cheers!

[sleazy rider]

Post up some impressions during or after your trip.  I'm looking to get down there for at least a month this year, more if it can be worked out.  Interested in the Oaxaca area in particular.  In the meantime, I'm planning on adding another State to my avatar map in March.

[rgbeard]

I have refrained from posting as most of my Mexico experience is in Baja Calif., and not mainland Mexico. (In a way, two different worlds. )  

My wife and I have had our home in Ensenada, Mexico for ten years, and feel as comfortable down there as anywhere in the world.  

As long as you're not an "Ugly American", you get really far.    Be an asshole, you'll get treated like one.

I think that's pretty internationally accurate, but certain country's tourists have a harder time grasping the concept than others.

[phatphil]

Just came back from eight days of riding in Mexico. Did about 2500 kms.  Bike: 2009 Vstrom DL650, givi top box, givi narrow side cases, tank bag, GPS.  Rented from Mxmotoadv who brought bike to hotel in central Mexico City.

Route: Mexico City to zihuatanejo 134, Acapulco 200, puerto Escondidoa, a loop thru Joquila, Tlaxiaco 125, Mexico City. 

Pretty simple route.   The best riding -tight, 2,3,4 gear was to and from coast.   

Staying in hotels ranging in price from 150 to 370 peso bought 12-35 bucks.  Except in Mexico City where was $69/nt for first and last night as I booked from home and was better to do rather than messing around once there.   Also, Oscar from bike rental company recommended the place (Hotel Catedral), it is easy to find, has good security, 24 hour staff, restaurants, close to everything, comfortable rooms.  I left my travel luggage bag there also with copies of passport, credit card, etc.

Some awesome riding.  Great value.  Mexicans drive well and some very fast.   For me, it is a joy to ride there.  Doesn't seem to be any radar or speed enforcement.  Got tired of the topas or speed bumps.  But I'd prefer over speed enforcement and it does slow everyone where it should. 

Their highways (mostly two lane) often turns very twisty.  Mexicans build roads with consistent radiis in the corners, which can be long and continual so can't expect any corner to open up.  Sometimes they keep turning.  Mucho fun.

Sure, there can be more "hazards" but I found quite easy to foresee any issues.  Tend to ride with a little more intensity, observation and sensitivity of sixth sense. 

I wouldn't hesitate to go again.  IMO, renting is the best way to do.  Get the most/best riding, in least time/money.

Saw a pyramid, a couple famous churches,  a few nice beaches, Acapulco (IMO, worth the stop), a couple volcanoes but mostly went to ride.

For me, this time length was perfect.  I am too spoiled by my living conditions and I start to miss.  Maybe after the eight days, I'd become more comfortable with Mexico living standards.  But my time/experience was short.   

A GPS (in addition to itm map) was an absolute necessity.  The Suzuki vstrom DL650, for me, was the best bike for this.  Strong, durable, ultra reliable, enough power, off road capability, comfortable, good handling, economical and fun. 

Found hotels/food on the way.  Took wide spectrum antibiotics in case got sick -which I did. 

Don't think there is a better, safer, more economical, easier, time efficient, way to travel Mexico by motorcycle than flying and then renting.  As long as bike rental company is reliable also.  Which it was. 

Thanks to ALL the comments.  They all helped make this trip glitch free, safe and fun.

 Search all my vids under youtube username

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0qNjiGnC_I&sns=em