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motrhead
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« on: February 09, 2015, 12:26:04 am »

 So I am going Thursday to pick up a '99 Lightning, punched out to 1380 something cc with a V&H 2 into 1.  I don't need another bike, but I always liked the tube frame Buells, and this one is supposed to do 4th gear wheelies. I am a Moto Guzzi man, but my XLCR Ironhead is a lot of fun too, and this way I can enjoy the Buell and mess with my Harley buddies at the same time as enjoying a loud, obnoxious ride. I am thinking some old school Harley emblems like on my Cafe Racer will dress it up just right.
Let the bashing commence. LOL
 Seriously...what should I be watching for, besides the police? Is it safe to assume my oil pump won't grenade? Any other "must do" mods before all is well?
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« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2015, 09:05:14 am »



Mmm... Tubers.

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« Reply #2 on: February 09, 2015, 12:26:40 pm »

Well they do go "potato-potato".  Lol
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« Reply #3 on: February 09, 2015, 01:57:35 pm »

You're going to have a blast on that thing, twice as much fun as a blast..... maybe more!  Thumbsup

I've owned  over 45 bike in my 55+ years of riding and the only two bike I regret selling are a Buell 2002 M2 Cyclone gray over a molten orange frame, and a Ducati 2006 Paul Smart 1000 LE.  Shame on me, good on you... enjoy!

Paul
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« Reply #4 on: February 09, 2015, 07:51:39 pm »

The 99 used a thinner backed primary chain adjuster that could potentially fail early.  They have a heavier duty one for it and all Sporties.  The helical oil pump drive gear lasts anywhere from 10k to 20k depending on luck and oil type.  The helical teeth get razor thin and either bend or break, then you have nothing driving the oil pump.  You won't know until it's too late.  Get a new one in to be sure.  Call American Sport bike in Cali for a gear.  Keep the belt fairly loose.  1 1/4" - 1 3/8" play is a good number and it will last about 50k miles or so.  The 3/4"- 7/8" in the manual is too tight and can rip off teeth or break prematurely.  Fist gen FI Buells like this do not like to be run dry.  Doing so confuses the ECM (it's a learning ECM) and you'll have to go through a tedious switch gear cycle to reset it then do a timed run at a steady rpm or take it for a reset at the dealer, if anyone will touch it anymore.  Never let the header stud nuts loosen.  Last thing you want is to send the heads to a shop remove broken exhaust studs.  Double nut it.

Now, enjoy it.
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« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2015, 08:49:04 pm »


The 99 used a thinner backed primary chain adjuster that could potentially fail early.  They have a heavier duty one for it and all Sporties.  The helical oil pump drive gear lasts anywhere from 10k to 20k depending on luck and oil type.  The helical teeth get razor thin and either bend or break, then you have nothing driving the oil pump.  You won't know until it's too late.  Get a new one in to be sure.  Call American Sport bike in Cali for a gear.  Keep the belt fairly loose.  1 1/4" - 1 3/8" play is a good number and it will last about 50k miles or so.  The 3/4"- 7/8" in the manual is too tight and can rip off teeth or break prematurely.  Fist gen FI Buells like this do not like to be run dry.  Doing so confuses the ECM (it's a learning ECM) and you'll have to go through a tedious switch gear cycle to reset it then do a timed run at a steady rpm or take it for a reset at the dealer, if anyone will touch it anymore.  Never let the header stud nuts loosen.  Last thing you want is to send the heads to a shop remove broken exhaust studs.  Double nut it.

Now, enjoy it.


 Thank you! That is the kind of advice I was looking for. I knew about the oil pump drive gear. I am getting info on the engine from the builder. Hopefully most of these issues were taken care of when it was punched out oversized..if not I will fix things.
 I am going to enjoy...plan to pick it up and license it on Thursday.
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« Reply #6 on: February 09, 2015, 10:38:34 pm »

Check the front rubber isolator that the front engine mount hangs from -  it's right behind the steering head. If the metal sleeve inside the rubber delaminates, or the rubber itself cracks around the circumference, the bike will feel smoother at first, it feels good. This good smooth feeling is a bad sign believe it or not - the extra movement and vibration harmonics change and eventually the engine mount bracket bolts will sheer off inside the aluminum head. The rubber vibration isolator part is shared with HD, but their engines rest on top of it.   The Buell's engine hangs from it. Harley redesigned the part to make the big twins smoother, but it can't hold up in the buell application anymore. Part #has been superseded 3 or 4 times since Buell designed the famous Uni-planer engine mounting system.  Changing the composition of the mount screws everything else up.

I replaced this part in my 01 S3T 3 times in a week (before and during a trip) and then sheered one of the mount bolts despite all the preventative maintenance and trouble.  Being that your bike is bored over - it's probably even more prone to frequently destroying this part.  A contributing factor in my case may have been thst I was riding was 2-up adding more stress.  I don't think it was really meant to be ridden 2-up cross country. Wheelies will over stress it too.

Also, rear shocks on the tubers were recalled multiple times and several different replacements were made, and some of the replacements were also recalled later.  Double/triple check your bike had all recall work performed and you have a safe shock.

+1 for American Sportbike. Talk to Al.
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« Reply #7 on: February 09, 2015, 11:13:47 pm »

 Bigok More good stuff. Thanks. Can you replace that bolt with a better grade fastener? Has someone made a urethane replacement? Will check out American Sportbike.
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« Reply #8 on: February 11, 2015, 12:22:44 am »


Check the front rubber isolator that the front engine mount hangs from -  it's right behind the steering head. If the metal sleeve inside the rubber delaminates, or the rubber itself cracks around the circumference, the bike will feel smoother at first, it feels good. This good smooth feeling is a bad sign believe it or not - the extra movement and vibration harmonics change and eventually the engine mount bracket bolts will sheer off inside the aluminum head. The rubber vibration isolator part is shared with HD, but their engines rest on top of it.   The Buell's engine hangs from it. Harley redesigned the part to make the big twins smoother, but it can't hold up in the buell application anymore. Part #has been superseded 3 or 4 times since Buell designed the famous Uni-planer engine mounting system.  Changing the composition of the mount screws everything else up.

I replaced this part in my 01 S3T 3 times in a week (before and during a trip) and then sheered one of the mount bolts despite all the preventative maintenance and trouble.  Being that your bike is bored over - it's probably even more prone to frequently destroying this part.  A contributing factor in my case may have been thst I was riding was 2-up adding more stress.  I don't think it was really meant to be ridden 2-up cross country. Wheelies will over stress it too.

Also, rear shocks on the tubers were recalled multiple times and several different replacements were made, and some of the replacements were also recalled later.  Double/triple check your bike had all recall work performed and you have a safe shock.

+1 for American Sportbike. Talk to Al.

That was a good one too about the front isolator.  I've not had issues with it personally on 5 Buells with this incarnation but lots of others have.  But I have had rear isolator issues.  These are getting harder to find.  I think Al may only have 1 or 2 left but not both sides.  Was speaking about this recently and the need for someone in aftermarket reproducing them.  There is a market for us tube enthusiasts.

As for the shock.  The 99 had a 16.5" shock... 2 actually that had recalls and a reinforcement.  You can't get a hold of this anymore.  But the newer 14.7" was better and I've seen take offs and some NOS on fee bay.  But a new Y hanger is needed to use it.   These can be found in lots of places like ASB and fee bay.
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« Reply #9 on: February 11, 2015, 12:23:34 am »


 Bigok More good stuff. Thanks. Can you replace that bolt with a better grade fastener? Has someone made a urethane replacement? Will check out American Sportbike.
The fastener isn't the issue.
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« Reply #10 on: February 11, 2015, 12:42:55 am »

More good stuff. This is stuff I can deal with. I am reading up in the Buell forums right now. LOL
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« Reply #11 on: February 11, 2015, 12:48:24 am »

0k, up to speed on isolators... Lol
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« Reply #12 on: February 11, 2015, 03:39:42 pm »

badweatherbikers.com  is a great forum full of information and Buell enthusiasts.

Al at Americansportbike.com is great and can get most of what you need for all your Buell needs.

Bart
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« Reply #13 on: February 11, 2015, 05:16:13 pm »

Yes, already joined Badweatherbikers. Thanks.
I just ordered a set of Harley emblems kind of like the ones on my XLCR. I am seriously going to mess with my Harley buds!  Lol As far as I am concerned, this is an XLCR II.
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« Reply #14 on: February 12, 2015, 08:39:27 pm »


Yes, already joined Badweatherbikers. Thanks.
I just ordered a set of Harley emblems kind of like the ones on my XLCR. I am seriously going to mess with my Harley buds!  Lol As far as I am concerned, this is an XLCR II.

You just jinxed your Buell's reliability by doing that. Wink
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« Reply #15 on: February 12, 2015, 08:50:34 pm »

My response to the HD crowd was a 'Snarly-Darwinson' decal, ordered a pair for my S1 but only put one on the flyscreen.  Bigsmile
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« Reply #16 on: February 13, 2015, 12:03:00 am »

 So I picked it my Buell , and got in a short ride of maybe 40 minutes. It's definitely not slow, but it's not quite as quick as my mildly tuned Guzzi LeMans. It may actually be louder , which I did not think was possible.  Lol I need a new set of tires before I think about wringing it out in the twisties, and it will probably be a few weeks yet before the gravel is gone from the local roads, so that will not happen for a while. I am going to ride it around town and to work for a month or two and get to know it better, but so far I am finding it very comfortable, and very hard to shift. I'm not seeing the 4th gear wheelies...lol.
 I'm not sure of the brand of aftermarket seat, but it is a revelation! OMG is this comfy!
 Vibration off idle rivals my XLCR, but it is reasonably smooth from 3000-4500, and 4000rpm is  a very pleasant 140kmh/87mph.  I am pleasantly surprised at how well the tiny cowl ahead of the instruments deflects the wind blast. I could see me covering some serious miles on this bike, despite the small fuel tank. The upright bars are definitely easier on the wrists than the clip ons of the LeMans.
 I am going for a longer ride tomorrow!
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