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Topic: What to look for / what to expect: 2007 R1200RT  (Read 1517 times)

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Motorcycles: 08 Bandit 1250SA
GPS: Valley of VA
Miles Typed: 95

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« on: April 05, 2016, 02:16:58 pm »

A few years ago I rented an R1200RT and came back all smiles. The renter, EagleRider, charged for miles over 200 per day; one of the techs explained that high maintenance costs dictated their decision. Buying even a used one was beyond my bike budget until recently. Now there's a 2007 nearby with only 18k on the odometer for $8900. A few questions occur:

Compared to my 08 Bandit 1250, how much more expensive is the BMW to operate? My first BMW, an R69S, once ate a set of piston rings; replaced them in my apartment for under $20 using the BMW tool kit. That user-friendliness seems to have disappeared. This RT has already had the brake module replaced, and I've read some about final drive issues. What else goes bad? How about suspension linkage?

Are there telltale signs to look for during the test visit? In particular, does the color of the primary exhaust pipes count for anything?  

All comments and suggestions welcomed,

tia, bonnieboomer

For reference, recent bikes include 08 1250 Bandit, 01 FZ-1, 00 Trophy 1200, 08 C14, 01 Sprint ST. Back in the day, R69S, R90S, GS1000, FJ1200, Bonnie 650. Many more...

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Years Contributed: '07
Motorcycles: '17 FJR 1300ES, (lamented) '03 BMW K1200RS
GPS: Skippack, PA, USA
Miles Typed: 3747

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« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2016, 11:19:11 am »

While I don't own an RT (I have an '02 K1200RS), I've ridden them and hang with an RT owner.

In general, BMW means "Break My Wallet". That is, it's not that the RT is spendy to maintain, it's that all BMW bikes (and cars)are spendy. Ain't a snowball's chance in Hades of finding a $20 ring job, DIY or not.

Replacing the brake module at under 18K is a little odd. The typical failure mode is the electrical pump goes sour, so maybe the PO just came out on the short side of MTBF (Mean Time Before Failure). There is a history of rear end failures. The best move is to maintain it to spec, and otherwise learn to check for problems (bearing play and noises) before things get out of hand. That said, I wouldn't call this issue a deal breaker, just something to factor in when deciding whether or not to buy the bike. AFAIK, the biggest issue with the suspension is some folks like to put in their own, after-market, shocks (Wilber, Íhlen, etc.). I'm not aware of a chronic failure history. Blued pipes? They all do it.

Kelly Blue Book's retail price (i.e., a dealer's cost to acquire, prep for sale, profit) for an '07 RT in excellent condition, in the Blacksburg, VA area, is under $8600. Without knowing who the seller is and what farkles the bike has, I still suggest that negotiation about the price is in order. While someone paid a bundle for the brake module work (BTDT still in sticker shock but did get a t-shirt), passing it on to the seller isn't on. Working brakes are something of a requirement. If they don't work, it's a project bike and worth a lot less than $8900.

I happen to like K motors (flat four or six) over the boxer, so that's what I stick with. OTOH, I'll be renting an RT for a July trip in the Alps. In general, if the bike fits and the price is right, ride on!

It's taken me entirely too long to develop a sense of patience.
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