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Topic: Sprint GT starting issues.  (Read 1421 times)

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Oxblood
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« on: June 03, 2017, 09:36:22 pm »

I have a 2011 Sprint GT.

I have had some cold start issues recently. WHen ambient air temp is below 10 Deg C the engine is hard to start.

I was able to get it on The Dealer Tool, and it showed the air aintake temp sensor was out of whack. So I thought it was sorted and am waiting on an new sensor.

Well, seems something else may be afoot.

I had been out riding around for over an hour. Stopped at a local grocery store to do some shopping, and left the bike for about 40 minutes. When I came back, it started up no problem, and rode back towards home, about 18km.

About 1KM from home I stopped to pick something up. Came back out, and turned ignition on, pulled in the clutch lever, and went to start the bike. It turned the starter and I thought it was going to run but then she up and died. I turned off the ignition, double checked that side stand was raised, quick kill switch was not initiated, and then turned the iginition to the on position. Nothing. The speedo and tach zeroed, but no other indicator light came on, and the LCD screen did not activate at all. The ABS light was the only thing lit, and it was pulsing instead of a steady glow. Headlights are also not lit. There was also a slight whirring noise from under the tank somewhere.

I put a volt meter on the battery, and it reads 12.999 steady.


Stumped here. Any ideas?
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« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2017, 10:54:38 pm »

Could it be something as simple as bad ignition switch contacts?
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Oxblood
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« Reply #2 on: June 04, 2017, 01:43:57 am »

It could be. I have yet to start tearing the bike apart to take a look.
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Oxblood
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« Reply #3 on: June 04, 2017, 03:32:47 pm »

Tested the fuses. They are all good and getting power. Had a friend help me with booster cables. No power getting to the dash at all, fuel pump does not wind up, nothing.

Any other ideas where the power may be getting cut? I have as yet not checked the connections to the iginition. If I do, what body parts need to be stripped.

Yesterday there was still some power getting to the dash. The speedo and tach would zero and the ABS light would flicker and there was a slight whirring sound. Today, nothing at the dash at all.

I did not thing of disconnecting the battery. Will do that next.

Last week when diagnosing the possible air temperature sensor issue the Dealer Tool did indicate that the battery was at 11.9. Yesterday when I checked it read 12.999 steadily.
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viffergyrl
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« Reply #4 on: June 04, 2017, 04:18:47 pm »

Check the battery when you add a load to it. Do you have a rectifier and stator. If so, check those as well.
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« Reply #5 on: June 04, 2017, 05:38:20 pm »


Check the battery when you add a load to it. Do you have a rectifier and stator. If so, check those as well.


Ditto. As I read your described symptoms I thought rectifier.  See what I can find on the net for you bout that.
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Oxblood
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« Reply #6 on: June 13, 2017, 04:41:18 pm »


Well, when we ripped out the battery, my vfriend, who is an m/c mechanic said "There's your problem! Made in China".

A new Yusa battery, and bingo, all is well. Still fine after a week of riding.
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« Reply #7 on: June 14, 2017, 01:29:44 pm »

Did you or your friend check the charging system?  
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Oxblood
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« Reply #8 on: June 20, 2017, 12:48:30 pm »


Did you or your friend check the charging system?  


It has now been over a week with the new battery. NO issues.

As to the last battery, I had no idea what its provenance was. It was in the bike when I bought it (used),and I have no idea how old it was. Couple it with the fact that it was one of the no name POS Made in China batteries, and it likely just gave up.

Going to hook the bike up on the weekend to the dealer tool and see if there are any gremlins in the ECU, and then double check charging. But so far, I have not had any issues.
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