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Topic: 2016 GSF1250S Bandit  (Read 18203 times)

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« on: December 05, 2017, 06:06:16 pm »

I'll be putting this header system on in the next few days. I got it on sale so I like the lower outlay of green and the weight savings and HP increase I am looking forward to.

1. Stock it got 47 to 51 MPG on the road and had great torque. About 100 HP and 75 or so lb ft torque.
2. I modified the air box and installed a slip on exhaust(10 lbs lighter than stock). Great throttle response and more torque and HP. Still around 50 MPG.
3. I'm going to install the full exhaust and I should be getting at least 120 HP and well over 80 lb ft.

Since this is my day bike and I do all maintenance at home the centerstand will come off. I hope to be around thirty pounds lighter than stock.



I have no clue why the picture doesn't come up
           
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« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2017, 07:32:54 am »

Mr Mechanic  Thumbsup
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« Reply #2 on: December 06, 2017, 10:59:48 am »


Mr Mechanic  Thumbsup


Just for you! I have an oil/filter change special for $79.95!!!
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« Reply #3 on: December 06, 2017, 11:51:35 am »



I have no clue why the picture doesn't come up
           


Post up the photos and I'll look into for you  Thumbsup
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« Reply #4 on: December 06, 2017, 11:53:22 am »



Just for you! I have an oil/filter change special for $79.95!!!


Hey! Those are Swiss prices!!
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« Reply #5 on: December 06, 2017, 01:04:49 pm »




Post up the photos and I'll look into for you  Thumbsup


Bingo! It's working now!

And about those prices, not Swiss prices, my prices.   Smile
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« Reply #6 on: January 28, 2018, 03:33:05 pm »

I finally adjusted the suspension settings on the Bandit. I knew it was stiff but, WOW. With me on it and geared up it had 9/16" of sag. Nowhere near enough sag. After adjustments I ended up with the rear spring at the lowest point of preload and 1 3/8" sag. I softened the front also.

Rides much better now. Haven't taken it into the hills yet but I expect no reduction in handling.

My buddy sent me his AFR gauge and exhaust attachments so I will be checking AFR at idle, low load/low throttle, 85 MPH cruise and full throttle points. After these real world tests I will be able to make an informed decision on FI adjustments needed. The bike gets 50 MPG and runs much better than I expected it would before I bought it.
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« Reply #7 on: February 21, 2018, 09:52:11 am »

Just installed a set of Sport Touring bars from Holeshot Performance on my 08. At least on the 08, they fit with the all teh stock wiring and plumbing. They are slightly taller and a much better bend. Makes the bike much more comfortable.  http://www.holeshot.com/accessories/holeshot/sport-touring-bars

I am also building a switched relay harness to power a couple things, heated grips and GPS for starters. Pics of that to follow.

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« Reply #8 on: February 21, 2018, 10:10:15 am »

Good job. Have you done any "tuning" to your Bandit?
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« Reply #9 on: February 21, 2018, 10:22:00 am »


Good job. Have you done any "tuning" to your Bandit?


No and probably won’t, at least as far as the engine goes. Will probably upgrade/tune the suspension at some point.
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« Reply #10 on: February 21, 2018, 04:12:01 pm »




No and probably won’t, at least as far as the engine goes. Will probably upgrade/tune the suspension at some point.


As I posted above the suspension, after my adjustments, are much better and I don't have a problem now. The brakes are still not anywhere near as good as on my FJR.

I forgot to post two weeks ago that I changed the gearing. I put a 19 tooth(stock is 18) sprocket on the front. The only place I could find one was Sprocket Specialists in Utah. The back portion on the side cover support needed to be trimmed a bit and no problems at all now. Around town I feel no real difference in throttle response. On the freeway at my usual cruise speed of from 80 to 85 MPH I feel a bit less lunge. But not slow by any means. Curiously, the speedo and tachometer have not changed. The gearing now is 7% higher so I am not sure how the bike gets information to display. As much as the speedos are off from the factory I probably am going the speed that is being displayed anyway.
 
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« Reply #11 on: February 21, 2018, 04:31:34 pm »




As I posted above the suspension, after my adjustments, are much better and I don't have a problem now. The brakes are still not anywhere near as good as on my FJR.

I forgot to post two weeks ago that I changed the gearing. I put a 19 tooth(stock is 18) sprocket on the front. The only place I could find one was Sprocket Specialists in Utah. The back portion on the side cover support needed to be trimmed a bit and no problems at all now. Around town I feel no real difference in throttle response. On the freeway at my usual cruise speed of from 80 to 85 MPH I feel a bit less lunge. But not slow by any means. Curiously, the speedo and tachometer have not changed. The gearing now is 7% higher so I am not sure how the bike gets information to display. As much as the speedos are off from the factory I probably am going the speed that is being displayed anyway.
 


Have you tried Vesrah brake pads? Made a big difference on the 1200. Will put them on the 1250 at some point.

Use a GPS to verify speedo error. Mine is off by 8.34%. Have a speedo healer on the way from Holeshot.

Also have mirror standoffs coming.

My Zero Gravity ST screen arrived today, but did not have time to finish the install before work. I should have, but Mr. Murphy ( that *€£#*> ) visited my during the work and I wasted over an hour locating one if the little well nuts that the screen mounts with! Found it behind the right rear tire of the old car. No idea how it could have ended up there.
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« Reply #12 on: February 22, 2018, 08:18:12 am »




Have you tried Vesrah brake pads? Made a big difference on the 1200. Will put them on the 1250 at some point.

Use a GPS to verify speedo error. Mine is off by 8.34%. Have a speedo healer on the way from Holeshot.

Also have mirror standoffs coming.

My Zero Gravity ST screen arrived today, but did not have time to finish the install before work. I should have, but Mr. Murphy ( that *€£#*> ) visited my during the work and I wasted over an hour locating one if the little well nuts that the screen mounts with! Found it behind the right rear tire of the old car. No idea how it could have ended up there.


Brakes- they are OK just have to use more effort to stop as well. When it's time I will look at options and Vesrah sounds good.

If the speedo is off that much, which I believe, then the 7% gearing increase puts me in the ballgame for accuracy. A couple of months ago when I removed the airbox cover one of the four screws disappeared! I checked everywhere and moved things out of the garage looking for it. I got the Gkids out and asked them if they touched anything. A week later when mowing the lawn I found it in the middle of the grass???????????

Post a picture of your windscreen, please.
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« Reply #13 on: February 22, 2018, 09:50:08 am »

Before


During


After




Comparison
 
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« Reply #14 on: February 22, 2018, 12:17:00 pm »

Nice.  Thumbsup
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« Reply #15 on: February 22, 2018, 12:48:43 pm »

A short test ride this morning was positive. There may be a slight bit more wind noise ( only took it up to 55 ) at my helmet, but I wear ear plugs when I ride so that is of no concern. No buffeting and no more wind blast to the chest.
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« Reply #16 on: February 22, 2018, 07:46:03 pm »



Curiously, the speedo and tachometer have not changed. The gearing now is 7% higher so I am not sure how the bike gets information to display. As much as the speedos are off from the factory I probably am going the speed that is being displayed anyway.
 


They won’t change. The speedo gets its signal from a hall effect sensor at the end of the countershaft. The are still spinning at the same rate they were before. The change is in the final drive ratio. I changed the gearing on my 02 from 15/45 to 15/43 and the speedo was just about dead on. For the 1250, I am going to use a Speedohealer. This way, no matter what I may do with gearing in the future I can have a correct speedo.
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« Reply #17 on: February 23, 2018, 08:08:44 pm »


A short test ride this morning was positive. There may be a slight bit more wind noise ( only took it up to 55 ) at my helmet, but I wear ear plugs when I ride so that is of no concern. No buffeting and no more wind blast to the chest.


Good job on the windshield. Tell me how a Speedohealer works??????? Obviously, it gets the true speed by GPS but how does it change the speedo?
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« Reply #18 on: February 23, 2018, 09:54:45 pm »




Good job on the windshield. Tell me how a Speedohealer works??????? Obviously, it gets the true speed by GPS but how does it change the speedo?


They do not use GPS. They plug in inline with the signal wires from the hall-effect sensor that reads pulses off the trigger, that funky little square thing you have to remove to get the counter shaft sprocket off. What it does is change the pulse rate to to the speedo. You do a little math; ((actual speed / indicated speed)- 1 ) * 100. This gives you the % number to program into the unit. Took longer to type this than it did to program it.  Smile

Installed it today (got it here - http://www.holeshot.com/accessories/speed-healer )

The little red button you see in the foreground is actually a remote button you can run up to teh bars. Pressing it causes teh speedo to displays your highest speed. Lol


Also installed Mirror extensions ( http://www.holeshot.com/suzuki/bandit/650-1250/products/holeshot-mirror-extensions )
Stock


With extension


Swapped out the nasty air filter with a K&N unit (Speedwerks, Dover, DE)
The filter looks kind of dirty in the pic, but it is brand new out of the box.  Crazy



Installed a relay to power GPS/heated grip wraps/??. Used a 40amp replay triggered off the license place light circuit.
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« Reply #19 on: February 24, 2018, 10:11:52 am »

I'll have to do a bit more serious thinking on getting one of those Speedothingies.

Please tell me you did the Dale Walker stage 1 air box mod. You will not be disappointed. Free HP everywhere in the RPM band.


                                         Shrug
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« Reply #20 on: February 24, 2018, 10:41:36 am »


I'll have to do a bit more serious thinking on getting one of those Speedothingies.

Please tell me you did the Dale Walker stage 1 air box mod. You will not be disappointed. Free HP everywhere in the RPM band.


                                         Shrug


I have not. Not sure if I will unless I go the whole route with Dale’s exhaust and EFI tuner. In all honesty, I am quite happy with the power in stock form. I ride fairly conservatively. I only had the stage one mod kit in the 1200 because the factory jetting was way off. If I do go Stage1, it will be with the touring muffler and probably the DB Killer; I like quiet bikes.

The next mods are a gear indicator and PAIR removal. My do the PAIR removal myself but will probably have Dave, at Speedwerks, do it when I have him check the valves. I could do that myself, but am at the point in my life where I can afford to pay to have it done and I trust Dave.
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« Reply #21 on: February 25, 2018, 11:25:45 am »




I have not. Not sure if I will unless I go the whole route with Dale’s exhaust and EFI tuner. In all honesty, I am quite happy with the power in stock form. I ride fairly conservatively. I only had the stage one mod kit in the 1200 because the factory jetting was way off. If I do go Stage1, it will be with the touring muffler and probably the DB Killer; I like quiet bikes.

The next mods are a gear indicator and PAIR removal. My do the PAIR removal myself but will probably have Dave, at Speedwerks, do it when I have him check the valves. I could do that myself, but am at the point in my life where I can afford to pay to have it done and I trust Dave.


Too bad I don't live closer to you. I could probably follow you around and live off whatever falls out of your pockets!

Not to beat the dead horse again but the silencer and two holes drilled into the air box cover is free HP everywhere in the RPM band without much more sound. The catalytic converter acts as quite a sound killing "plug". And no ECU programming necessary.
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« Reply #22 on: February 25, 2018, 12:50:04 pm »




Too bad I don't live closer to you. I could probably follow you around and live off whatever falls out of your pockets!

Not to beat the dead horse again but the silencer and two holes drilled into the air box cover is free HP everywhere in the RPM band without much more sound. The catalytic converter acts as quite a sound killing "plug". And no ECU programming necessary.


I don't doubt you a bit, but I am happy with the power it makes. Should that change...............
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« Reply #23 on: March 03, 2018, 12:11:33 am »

I had a 2007 1250s Bandit that I hot-rodded to 127rwhp and 84ftlb torque.  I used a PCIII Commander, pulled 2ndry Butterflies, eliminated 02 sensor, modded air box with K/N air filter, full exhaust system.  I felt that removing all that weight off the bottom made the Bike feel more top heavy with a full tank of fuel.
Read this thread if you really want big HP from your engine. Makes 160rwhp!
http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111455
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« Reply #24 on: March 04, 2018, 10:30:22 am »

Cool!
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« Reply #25 on: March 05, 2018, 09:10:34 am »




Too bad I don't live closer to you. I could probably follow you around and live off whatever falls out of your pockets!



You could probably afford to live in a cardboard box with what falls out of my pockets!  Lol
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« Reply #26 on: March 26, 2018, 08:29:25 am »

Hand guards installed. Used the kit for a 2016 V-Strom 1000.

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« Reply #27 on: March 26, 2018, 07:42:41 pm »

The hand guards toughed the windscreen at full lock. A quick and easy fix was to epoxy a small nylon spacer (cut from an extra thick nylon washer) on to the steering stops. Now the guards have just under 1/4" clearance from the screen.

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« Reply #28 on: March 26, 2018, 11:52:52 pm »

That is a nice fix.

What do you think about the DB windshield?

I saw that your car was a Dodge then I saw the hub cap. A Dart! 66 or 67? Tell me it has a 383 and not the 318!?
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« Reply #29 on: March 27, 2018, 07:48:31 am »

It is a Zero Gravity Sport Touring windshield. I like it.

The car is a 64.
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« Reply #30 on: March 27, 2018, 10:52:50 am »

I haven't looked too hard at a bigger windshield on mine. After all, the bandit is my "day" bike.



When you didn't answer the 318/383 question I now know that you have a 6 cylinder, 3 on tree setup.        If you look hard enough a 413/4 speed will make the world right again.
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« Reply #31 on: March 27, 2018, 02:19:43 pm »

Original 64 GT, 225 slant 6 with push button auto. 413 wedge will not come close to fitting without major modifications.

She is too original to mess with. Has under 160k original miles, I am the second owner and it was a california car.
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« Reply #32 on: April 27, 2018, 02:07:12 pm »

Gear position indicator installed a couple weeks ago.     https://www.amazon.com/IDEA-Waterproof-Motorcycle-Indicator-Display/dp/B06WGV2MJS

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« Reply #33 on: April 27, 2018, 02:11:11 pm »

Electronic turn signal flasher installed today in preparation of a turn signal mod. Ordered these (two sets - clear lens);

 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-SUZUKI-GSF-650-1200-1250-Bandit-GSX-650F-1250FA-Amber-Motorcycle-Accessories-Turn-Signal-Indicator/32319108102.html

Notice they are three wire units. I chose three wire so that I can have running lights and turn signal. Amber in front and red in the rear using LED 1157 bulbs from Super Bright LEDs.

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« Reply #34 on: April 27, 2018, 02:22:25 pm »

Darn!!! I have to spend money! I like the gear position indicator. I hope it will work with my 2016.

By the way, I put a 19t sprocket on the bike to lower the rpms on the freeway. I still go for 7th gear once in a while because the bike has so much grunt that I think there is another gear coming.
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« Reply #35 on: April 27, 2018, 02:48:57 pm »

Should work. Plugs into the diagnostic connector under the right side frame cover.
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« Reply #36 on: May 06, 2018, 07:00:42 pm »

Installed three wire turn signals so I have running lights.

https://youtu.be/2o1UIFcPHaU
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« Reply #37 on: June 21, 2018, 06:21:47 pm »

This is how I finished the 2016 Bandit 1250 for long runs. Of course, that is why I have the FJR1300 but it is down for maintenance.

I made spacers/brackets to keep the soft bags off the painted parts. I also made a luggage rack to properly carry stuff. The tent goes across the passenger seat. A large tank bag and bingo.

Notice the 4 into 1 full exhaust, 12v power outlet on right side of lower dash board, VStrom handguards and removal of passenger foot peg brackets. You can't see the throttle lock. Oh yeah, I installed a 19t front sprocket. The speedometer is now spot on as verified by three of those side of road radar thingies. I got 55 and 56 MPG on two complete tank refills!!!!!!! That was in the high country though.
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« Reply #38 on: June 21, 2018, 06:24:32 pm »

More pictures
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« Reply #39 on: June 22, 2018, 07:24:52 am »

Blue

No meals on wheels boxes on the Bandit ?
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« Reply #40 on: June 22, 2018, 12:40:10 pm »

I don't have a problem with utility styled boxes/cases. They just ain't my thing. I prefer smooth, good looking motorcycles. I can take my FJR on any dirt road that is public transportation accessable. If I wanted to go dirt bike riding I'd get a proper motocross bike.


                       Bigok
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« Reply #41 on: July 06, 2018, 06:19:52 pm »


This is how I finished the 2016 Bandit 1250 for long runs. Of course, that is why I have the FJR1300 but it is down for maintenance.

I made spacers/brackets to keep the soft bags off the painted parts. I also made a luggage rack to properly carry stuff. The tent goes across the passenger seat. A large tank bag and bingo.

Notice the 4 into 1 full exhaust, 12v power outlet on right side of lower dash board, VStrom handguards and removal of passenger foot peg brackets. You can't see the throttle lock. Oh yeah, I installed a 19t front sprocket. The speedometer is now spot on as verified by three of those side of road radar thingies. I got 55 and 56 MPG on two complete tank refills!!!!!!! That was in the high country though.


Looks good.
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« Reply #42 on: July 06, 2018, 06:30:13 pm »

Installed a Cameleon chain oiler






 Metal ( metrickmetal.com ) regulator/rectifier relocation kit. Get it out from behind the cylinders and into the air stream.





And courteousy of Walmat, a trunk light..

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« Reply #43 on: July 06, 2018, 06:41:48 pm »

Also ordered this from Metrick Metal;

http://shop.metrickmetal.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=80


Here is a pic across the top of the engine after the PAIR removal was installed.

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« Reply #44 on: July 06, 2018, 07:36:02 pm »

I can’t tell it’s there

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« Reply #45 on: July 06, 2018, 10:11:54 pm »

O2- Good idea on relocating the regulator!!!!!

I call BS on the PAIR thing. I went to do that last month and when I got to investigating decided the ONLY advantage was to clean up the top of the engine and nothing more. But there is a couple of negatives that I don't want to get anywhere near.

The PAIR thingie is nothing more than reed valve(one way) suction from the airbox to evacuate the blow by and pressure from inside the engine to mix with incoming air from the air filter. No adverse effect on engine performance at all. BUT, the lack of pressure reduction inside the engine and blow by not evacuated from the engine does have negative effects.

PAIR means pulsed air intake reed valve. On the Bandit all it does is what I described above. On other bikes I don't know. I wanted to eliminate the down shift popping but realized that the Bandit PAIR valve had zero to do with popping.
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« Reply #46 on: July 20, 2018, 09:22:00 am »


O2- Good idea on relocating the regulator!!!!!

I call BS on the PAIR thing. I went to do that last month and when I got to investigating decided the ONLY advantage was to clean up the top of the engine and nothing more. But there is a couple of negatives that I don't want to get anywhere near.

The PAIR thingie is nothing more than reed valve(one way) suction from the airbox to evacuate the blow by and pressure from inside the engine to mix with incoming air from the air filter. No adverse effect on engine performance at all. BUT, the lack of pressure reduction inside the engine and blow by not evacuated from the engine does have negative effects.

PAIR means pulsed air intake reed valve. On the Bandit all it does is what I described above. On other bikes I don't know. I wanted to eliminate the down shift popping but realized that the Bandit PAIR valve had zero to do with popping.


To each his own.

The pair system - Pulsed Secondary Air Injection - is not a crank vent system. The engine has a separate system for that, the PCV system so there is no pressure build up.  PAIR it is a air injection system for emissions. It injects air down stream of the exhaust valve to improve emissions. If you are running an aftermarket exhaust, it can contribute to decel popping.
The kit does not just remove the PAIR stuff, it also removes all of the emissions bullshit. When you see the amount of crap that comes off the bike it is kind of amazing. I'll will try and remember top post a pic of teh crap later.
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« Reply #47 on: July 20, 2018, 07:46:47 pm »

I like the popping on decel --- Its part of the Triumph Sprint's special character, guess you Bandit guys don't like it?      
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« Reply #48 on: July 20, 2018, 10:32:10 pm »

Added Metrick Metal’s forward foot peg kit. Ads a nice bit of comfort. Changed the oil while I was down there.



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« Reply #49 on: July 21, 2018, 12:48:16 pm »




To each his own.

The pair system - Pulsed Secondary Air Injection - is not a crank vent system. The engine has a separate system for that, the PCV system so there is no pressure build up.  PAIR it is a air injection system for emissions. It injects air down stream of the exhaust valve to improve emissions. If you are running an aftermarket exhaust, it can contribute to decel popping.
The kit does not just remove the PAIR stuff, it also removes all of the emissions bullshit. When you see the amount of crap that comes off the bike it is kind of amazing. I'll will try and remember top post a pic of teh crap later.


I'm not trying to be argumentative at all. I really like to "figure" things out.  I see no place or stuff that injects air anywhere in the Bandit exhaust system. When I took the stock exhaust off I looked and investigated. Could be that the Bandit always popped but with the catalytic converter in place maybe the popping was disguised. I would like someone to explain to me how injecting air into a modern, one coil per cylinder, motorcycle can induce popping. Again, not trying to be argumentative but trying to figure this out.
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« Reply #50 on: July 26, 2018, 06:22:53 pm »




I'm not trying to be argumentative at all. I really like to "figure" things out.  I see no place or stuff that injects air anywhere in the Bandit exhaust system. When I took the stock exhaust off I looked and investigated. Could be that the Bandit always popped but with the catalytic converter in place maybe the popping was disguised. I would like someone to explain to me how injecting air into a modern, one coil per cylinder, motorcycle can induce popping. Again, not trying to be argumentative but trying to figure this out.


No worries. On the 1250 engine, unlike the 1200, the air injection is internal to tje head.
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« Reply #51 on: August 02, 2018, 09:41:48 am »




No worries. On the 1250 engine, unlike the 1200, the air injection is internal to tje head.


I was reading my Service manual on my FJR1300. It says the reed valve on the valve cover injects air to the exhaust PORT. Aha! Must be same on the Bandit. However, the FJR1300 does not pop on downshift.     Headscratch     I have a Muzzy full system 4-1 exhaust on the FJR as I have a full system 4-1 on the Bandit. But the Bandit pops like a movie theater pop corn machine!


But I still don't understand how injected air would induce popping? One bike yes and the other no?! Oh well, another great mystery of science.
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« Reply #52 on: August 03, 2018, 06:58:28 pm »



But I still don't understand how injected air would induce popping? One bike yes and the other no?! Oh well, another great mystery of science.


I'm guessing here --  but if you have hot un-burned or partially burned fuel sitting in a 10% oxygen atmosphere (half the oxygen already burned)  and you suddenly introduce more oxygen and possibly compress it slightly --- that unburned fuel will detonate.  

If you're running rich and decelerating there may be a LOT of un-burned fuel in the exhaust
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« Reply #53 on: August 22, 2018, 05:45:19 pm »




I'm guessing here --  but if you have hot un-burned or partially burned fuel sitting in a 10% oxygen atmosphere (half the oxygen already burned)  and you suddenly introduce more oxygen and possibly compress it slightly --- that unburned fuel will detonate.  

If you're running rich and decelerating there may be a LOT of un-burned fuel in the exhaust

I believe you are right. The air is injected to burn any fuel left in the exhaust gas.
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« Reply #54 on: February 07, 2019, 08:25:43 am »

OK, BIB, here is the link to everything you need to know about adding cruise control:
 https://www.twtex.com/forums/threads/help-electronic-cruise-control.36298/

A little about my Bandit:
2008 SA in black
Windscreens: 1. Stock 2. MRA Vario [gets the most use; on there now] 3. A taller ZG unit to which I have added an MRA X-creen
MM mirror extenders and bar risers; also Holeshot risers. This required a new [SS] front brake hose
DL 1000 handguards
Holeshot fork brace
Cogent fork springs and spacers with 5w; 38mm sag
ADV LED lights replacing the fork-mounted reflectors. The lights are adjustable on low beam, go to full power on high
EBC front pads
Pilot IV's
Holeshot header
LV titanium can
PAIR eliminator kit. Did this to free up room to install the CC
Holeshot Stage II: no 2ndaries, airbox opened up with K&N, PC III
Holeshot solid steel nerf bars
Cogent shock, also set at 38mm sag
Audiovox CC unit with vacuum canister [just installed, makes me wonder why I waited 8 years to do it!]
Sargent and Holeshot/Corbin seats
Givi side racks and V35 panniers; SW-Motech top rack and Givi V46
AdMore LED lights on all 3 cases

At 26k miles, the chain and sprockets are about used up; will probably add a tooth to countershaft, as there is more than adequate power with the engine mods. About every 3rd tank I dip a rag in kerosene and run at idle in 1st on the centerstand to wipe the chain clean. Then I spray on a little chain wax.

Oil changes at 3 to 4k miles depending on use.

No pix for now, but I confess that I would rather ride and tinker than keep it spotless.

bonnieboomer


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« Reply #55 on: February 07, 2019, 11:12:15 am »


OK, BIB, here is the link to everything you need to know about adding cruise control:
 https://www.twtex.com/forums/threads/help-electronic-cruise-control.36298/

A little about my Bandit:
2008 SA in black
Windscreens: 1. Stock 2. MRA Vario [gets the most use; on there now] 3. A taller ZG unit to which I have added an MRA X-creen
MM mirror extenders and bar risers; also Holeshot risers. This required a new [SS] front brake hose
DL 1000 handguards
Holeshot fork brace
Cogent fork springs and spacers with 5w; 38mm sag
ADV LED lights replacing the fork-mounted reflectors. The lights are adjustable on low beam, go to full power on high
EBC front pads
Pilot IV's
Holeshot header
LV titanium can
PAIR eliminator kit. Did this to free up room to install the CC
Holeshot Stage II: no 2ndaries, airbox opened up with K&N, PC III
Holeshot solid steel nerf bars
Cogent shock, also set at 38mm sag
Audiovox CC unit with vacuum canister [just installed, makes me wonder why I waited 8 years to do it!]
Sargent and Holeshot/Corbin seats
Givi side racks and V35 panniers; SW-Motech top rack and Givi V46
AdMore LED lights on all 3 cases

At 26k miles, the chain and sprockets are about used up; will probably add a tooth to countershaft, as there is more than adequate power with the engine mods. About every 3rd tank I dip a rag in kerosene and run at idle in 1st on the centerstand to wipe the chain clean. Then I spray on a little chain wax.

Oil changes at 3 to 4k miles depending on use.

No pix for now, but I confess that I would rather ride and tinker than keep it spotless.

bonnieboomer





Very nice, BB!!!

I have installed several Audiovox CCs. I have been thinking of putting one on the Bandit but the throttle lock works great and I haven't found room to install one. BINGO. I have decided after O2 beat me up on the PAIR removal to install one and you found room for the CC!

Go ahead and install the 19t sprocket. You will not be disappointed.
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« Reply #56 on: February 07, 2019, 05:19:06 pm »


I have decided after O2 beat me up...………….



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« Reply #57 on: February 07, 2019, 05:20:27 pm »

Bonnie,

 When do you think you might head down Delaware way to get the seat?
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« Reply #58 on: February 08, 2019, 07:53:40 am »

BiB: the TWT site admin had a major crash; this morning the site is back up but it appears to be a "last known good version". The linked thread is there, but if he doesn't get it all back, I may have to repost my addenda. And by the way, do you happen to know if the FA fairing assembly can be mounted on the older 1250's? I rode a Ninja 1000 ABS this week, and it has noticeably better wind protection than the Bandit; it also feels more planted at double the double nickel+. Ergos not so good. Always looking to improve!

02: my son is supposed to be heading here soon to help another family member move to a new house from an apartment. He can come by Dover on the way. Will keep you informed.

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« Reply #59 on: February 08, 2019, 08:33:31 am »


BiB: the TWT site admin had a major crash; this morning the site is back up but it appears to be a "last known good version". The linked thread is there, but if he doesn't get it all back, I may have to repost my addenda. And by the way, do you happen to know if the FA fairing assembly can be mounted on the older 1250's? I rode a Ninja 1000 ABS this week, and it has noticeably better wind protection than the Bandit; it also feels more planted at double the double nickel+. Ergos not so good. Always looking to improve!

02: my son is supposed to be heading here soon to help another family member move to a new house from an apartment. He can come by Dover on the way. Will keep you informed.

bonnieboomer


Sounds good.


As to the fairing, I believe the frames are the same so if you could source all the bracketry it should fit. How ever, I believe the instrument cluster is different. Unless you could find a donor bike it might be kind of pricey to do.


Does the Ninja have better overall wind protection or was it the additional leg protection that made the difference?
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« Reply #60 on: February 08, 2019, 09:50:18 am »

Glad we're still on track wrt the gel seat. I will write to Spencers; they did a a wonderful job on a C14 stocker.

Ninja is a '16 and has a V-stream medium sized fairing. I never tried it in the highest position, but it got better from low to middle and really cut down on wind buffet. It also appeared to make the bike a bit more susceptible to crosswinds. N1k has a steeper fork angle than B1250SA, so in general it feels more responsive to inputs - both internally and externally generated. I think I had it in low-power mode because it didn't jump like my Bandit when caned. The N1k bodywork sort of cocoons your lower legs, which is both good and bad: better wind protection, but less room to move your legs around. I reversed my footpeg mounts, and so would do something similar if owning a Ninja. Would also have to install bar risers, and most of all a better seat. My favorite feature of the Kawa was the external adjuster for rear preload. My Cogent shock is much easier to adjust than oem, but it still requires a spanner and removal of the left heel guard. Speaking of guards, I haven't seen any hand guards for the Ninja like the DL1k ones you can easily adapt to the Bandit. I would need a much more comprehensive test session with the Kawa before deciding if it would make a desirable upgrade. More fun to ride, but not as comfortable as the bike I've been improving for the past 8 years.

wrt swapping in FA front bodywork, the first thing to check would be the multipin connector that attaches to the back of the gauge cluster. If those are the same, I would say it's doable.

BiB, is yours an FA?

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« Reply #61 on: February 08, 2019, 07:49:56 pm »

I was seriously looking at the N1K and Yamaha FZ1 before I settled on the Bandit. I really wanted the FZ1. After sitting on and investigating the N1K I decided it was too sporty and needed too much modification to make it a good sport-TOURER. Then I asked my insurance man what the premium would be on the FZ1 and N1K. That ended the investigation of those two bikes. Haven't regretted the purchase of the Bandit as a "do all" bike as a back up to my FJR1300.

Not sure if my Bandit is a FA. When I get off my can I will go out and see.

I did look at the pictures on the website of the Bandit CC job. Don't think it was your installation of the CC that I saw.

Thinking of tearing down the Bandit for complete maintenance and at that time I will install the PAIR removal kit and perhaps take off the CC on my FJR for installation on the Bandit. Then I may sell my FJR1300 when I return it to all stock and detail.
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« Reply #62 on: February 09, 2019, 09:23:54 am »

The FA was a few year run where Zuki tried to shoehorn the Bandit into the Sportbike segment with a full fairing set and GSXRish front end. Did not work as the rest of the bike was unchanged and while the Bandit is a wonderful all arounder, a full on sport bike she is not.
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« Reply #63 on: February 09, 2019, 12:52:19 pm »


The FA was a few year run where Zuki tried to shoehorn the Bandit into the Sportbike segment with a full fairing set and GSXRish front end. Did not work as the rest of the bike was unchanged and while the Bandit is a wonderful all arounder, a full on sport bike she is not.


And I am glad the Bandit is not a full on sport bike. Last Summer 3,000 miles in ten days, 50+ MPG, smooth and comfortable, sure beats the heck out of one of those "monkey on a football" bikes.   Bigsmile

By the way, I am going to a track day with buddies this Spring when the track opens up. Sticky tires, suspension adjustments, more power than stock and twenty-five pounds lighter. I am looking forward to seeing how it stacks up against the sport bikes. My buddies are expert level track guys. We stay very close on the street so I am curious how the Bandit will do when we put our leathers on.      Bigsmile
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« Reply #64 on: February 10, 2019, 03:26:21 pm »

wrt FA: I had assumed that the newer fairing on that one gave better wind protection. I'll ask Dale some time; he had an FA that he sold to a customer.

Since TWT seems to have lost my last post on the CC install, here is the short version of what was different about mine:

There are two different sets of instructions in the one thread: 1250Pete had an S [no ABS], while Davo had the SA. If your Bandit doesn't have ABS you can just put the servo unit above the shock as 1250Pete did. In that case, the only difference with mine was drilling a hole in the #1 intake pipe and inserting a brass nipple to provide vacuum, instead of tapping into the vacuum manifold that feeds IAP sensor (no. 1). Looking from the rear, the hole is at about 11:00 and the nipple nicely clears the head in front and the throttle body behind. Not sure Pete used a vacuum canister, but I would recommend. You can probably get all that done without touching the PAIR, but it's a lot easier to work without all that plumbing in the way.

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« Reply #65 on: February 11, 2019, 10:00:21 am »

A friend of mine said: Too little power, too little torque! (It has 129 PS/131 Nm. since 52,000 km)
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« Reply #66 on: February 11, 2019, 10:44:53 am »


A friend of mine said: Too little power, too little torque! (It has 129 PS/131 Nm. since 52,000 km)


Which bike has too little power and torque?

The Bandit is perfect for "ordinary" riding. Great power band and right now response. You know, 3,000 to 4,000 RPM cruising and plenty of grunt at those speeds.
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« Reply #67 on: February 11, 2019, 01:20:31 pm »

Lots of torque in either the 1200 or 1250 variety.

I joke with my sport bike friends that I have a 1250cc scooter in that when we are riding the back roads I just leave her in 3rd or 4th and "twist-n-go"; no shifting required!
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« Reply #68 on: February 12, 2019, 05:22:49 pm »


Also ordered this from Metrick Metal;

http://shop.metrickmetal.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=80


Here is a pic across the top of the engine after the PAIR removal was installed.




Did your PAIR removal kit come with the electrical connector to replace the stock one? I want to order this very soon and am investigating where to buy the plates. Not sure if I need the connector. But it would seem so.
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« Reply #69 on: February 12, 2019, 09:01:27 pm »

Scott is shutting down MM and has sold a lot of his stock to Dale, including the remaining PAIR removal units. Last I heard, there were still a few left. Part of the install involves cutting the wires coming from the sensor between #1 and #2 plugs and connecting them to a supplied resistor.
Unfortunately, all his r/r relocating brackets were gone when I tried to order one before Christmas. I did get a set of mirror extenders.
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« Reply #70 on: February 13, 2019, 10:17:59 am »


Scott is shutting down MM and has sold a lot of his stock to Dale, including the remaining PAIR removal units. Last I heard, there were still a few left. Part of the install involves cutting the wires coming from the sensor between #1 and #2 plugs and connecting them to a supplied resistor.
Unfortunately, all his r/r relocating brackets were gone when I tried to order one before Christmas. I did get a set of mirror extenders.
bb


Too bad he is closing down. I went to his site yesterday and did see a few things he was discounting. I just need to know if I eliminate the hoses and stuff do I need to replace the stock PAIR chingus with a resistor to replicate a signal back to the ECU.
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« Reply #71 on: February 13, 2019, 01:08:53 pm »

Looking to replicate your sprocket choice, but the shop can't find 19-tooth sprockets; what's more, they can only source 42- or 40-tooth rears.
Where did you get your 19 tooth countershaft sprocket?
tia,
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« Reply #72 on: February 13, 2019, 05:24:47 pm »


Looking to replicate your sprocket choice, but the shop can't find 19-tooth sprockets; what's more, they can only source 42- or 40-tooth rears.
Where did you get your 19 tooth countershaft sprocket?
tia,
bb


I knew you'd be contacting me. I went through the same investigation to find the only outfit in the country that I know of that sells them. You will have to grind a touch off the inside of sprocket cover. I did it in seconds with a rounded file. No problems at all with the 19t. If you were closer I'd charge you lunch for my info. Since you are not within lunch distance you get the info for free.   Bigsmile

Sprocket Specialists
1408 South Hwy 118
Richfield, UT  84701

That is off my receipt.  $33.99
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« Reply #73 on: February 14, 2019, 07:06:13 pm »

I ordered my PAIR valve block off plates today. I also am looking for a 330 ohm, 1/2 - 10 watt resistor to replicate a signal that the ECU will identify as the removed PAIR valve. Under $30 total!

When I get the stuff I will tear the Bandit down for valve check, spark plug replacement, fork oil change, antifreeze replace, detail and so forth.
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« Reply #74 on: February 21, 2019, 11:39:45 pm »

I tore into the Bandit today. Got off all the water stuff on top the engine and the PAIR junk as well. Checked the plugs and they look good. Was curious how they would look after I put the 4-1 full exhaust(no catalytic converter) on and did an air box mod. Runs great, no pinging or overheating has great throttle response and gets 50+ MPG!!!. I expected the plugs to be white/as new! So in the next days I will check the valve clearances and do all the maintenance.

I goofed up and my PAIR block off plates that I ordered went to my old address! My daughter sent them to me and I should get them tomorrow. I located a 330 ohm resistor for pocket change and that will send a signal to the ECU that the PAIR junk is still connected. No engine light! The same place that had the resistor has many electrical parts and connectors so I will take my stock PAIR  connection to them to get a new one that I can solder the resistor into. Bingo.  
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« Reply #75 on: February 22, 2019, 09:11:16 am »

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« Reply #76 on: February 26, 2019, 07:52:54 pm »

Just finished taking off the valve cover.


                 Exhaust valve clearance   .008 to .0012


#1                    #2                       #3               #4

 .0085 .008     .008    .009      .009   .009   .0085   .0010


                Intake valve clearance    .004 to .008


.005  .005        .005  .005        .006  .006    .0055 .004



As it stands now I am thinking of just putting the valve cover back on and calling it good. Tomorrow I may get up and pull the FI to get to the cam chain tensioner and then adjust most of the valves to the loosest stock setting. Not sure if I will change my mind over night. Shrug

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« Reply #77 on: March 01, 2019, 09:57:49 am »

Seeing as they are only going to get tighter, I would suggest you bite the bullet and make the adjustments. fI you put them to the loose side of the specs, you may not ever have adjust them again.

I had my 1250 checked, shortly after I got it. Had 20,700 miles on it by then. I dropped it off to my friends at Speedwerks to give the bike a good once over, check the valves and pull the pair/evap crap. I used to do all this stuff myself, but the Good Lord has put me in a place where (for now) I don't have to.  Bigsmile Plus, while I like tinkering and installing farkles, I just do not enjoy extended work on the bike like I used to. Might be from being a mechanic (aircraft) for the last 35 years.

When I picked the bike up, the next day, Dave gave me the check sheet and all the valve were toward the loose end of specs. No adjustment was needed and we believe it was the first time they had ever been checked. Dave said, he finds it very rare for them to move much once they take their initial set. Said only one of the other handful of 1200/1250 Bandits he has worked on needed an initial adjustment ( must have been tight like yours ). other than that, no other adjustment were needed. That included my 02 1200 with 97000 miles on it. Over the course of those mile he made an adjustment couple time, but not because it really needed. He is very detail oriented and the adjustments he made were because he was there anyway and being tappets, it was a simple matter to put both valves for a follower at the same exact gap.
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« Reply #78 on: March 01, 2019, 10:05:16 am »


Seeing as they are only going to get tighter, I would suggest you bite the bullet and make the adjustments. fI you put them to the loose side of the specs, you may not ever have adjust them again.

I had my 1250 checked, shortly after I got it. Had 20,700 miles on it by then. I dropped it off to my friends at Speedwerks to give the bike a good once over, check the valves and pull the pair/evap crap. I used to do all this stuff myself, but the Good Lord has put me in a place where (for now) I don't have to.  Bigsmile Plus, while I like tinkering and installing farkles, I just do not enjoy extended work on the bike like I used to. Might be from being a mechanic (aircraft) for the last 35 years.

When I picked the bike up, the next day, Dave gave me the check sheet and all the valve were toward the loose end of specs. No adjustment was needed and we believe it was the first time they had ever been checked. Dave said, he finds it very rare for them to move much once they take their initial set. Said only one of the other handful of 1200/1250 Bandits he has worked on needed an initial adjustment ( must have been tight like yours ). other than that, no other adjustment were needed. That included my 02 1200 with 97000 miles on it. Over the course of those mile he made an adjustment couple time, but not because it really needed. He is very detail oriented and the adjustments he made were because he was there anyway and being tappets, it was a simple matter to put both valves for a follower at the same exact gap.


When I did my FJR1300's valves I adjusted three, that I didn't need to, to the loosest setting. I am going to wait until the end of Summer to monkey with the Bandit 1250 again. At that time it will need tires again and I will plan on adjusting all valves to the loosest setting.  
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« Reply #79 on: March 01, 2019, 11:36:06 am »

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« Reply #80 on: March 07, 2019, 09:51:55 am »

I haven't been real excited to finish the maintenance work on the Bandit. Just other things to do.

I did put everything on the engine back together. Now I will do the forks and detail clean the entire bike. Pictures below are of the resistor that I bought. I bent the resistor ends so it will slide into the PAIR connector. Then covered it with black electrical tape. Look real hard and you can see the PAIR block off plates. They didn't come with gaskets so I had make some using the blue gasket material I had.
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« Reply #81 on: March 08, 2019, 06:24:46 pm »

Just got back from taking the Bandit for a spin. No popping like before. That PAIR removal kit and resistor did the trick!!
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« Reply #82 on: March 08, 2019, 10:45:04 pm »


Just got back from taking the Bandit for a spin. No popping like before. That PAIR removal kit and resistor did the trick!!


I always loved the Bandit

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xqO4nuO4vl0
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« Reply #83 on: March 08, 2019, 11:53:40 pm »


Just got back from taking the Bandit for a spin. No popping like before. That PAIR removal kit and resistor did the trick!!


No cat and no PAIR? --- you're going to be worse for the environment than 10 farting cows...   Smile

I like the popping - it gives bikes character - but that's cool that its easy to get rid of... Hope you enjoy the quieter ride...    
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« Reply #84 on: March 09, 2019, 04:32:36 pm »




No cat and no PAIR? --- you're going to be worse for the environment than 10 farting cows...   Smile

I like the popping - it gives bikes character - but that's cool that its easy to get rid of... Hope you enjoy the quieter ride...    



The popping that came out of the tailpipe sounded like gun fire! Around town and regular riding no problem but when sport riding and down shifting at RPMs, WOW. Some pictures I took this morning.

                  Bigsmile
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« Reply #85 on: March 11, 2019, 09:24:45 am »

Looks greyt. Need to give mine an oil change today.
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« Reply #86 on: March 11, 2019, 04:57:01 pm »


Looks greyt. Need to give mine an oil change today.

Let me know what kind of oil and filter you run so I can start an argument discussion on correct lubrication.           Bigsmile
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« Reply #87 on: March 11, 2019, 08:17:50 pm »




The popping that came out of the tailpipe sounded like gun fire! Around town and regular riding no problem but when sport riding and down shifting at RPMs, WOW. Some pictures I took this morning.

                  Bigsmile


That's a pretty Bandit...   I'm surprised your plugs weren't black if it popped that badly...  The bike must have been running very rich for the PAIR to make it THAT loud....   My bike (not a bandit) pops a lot on decel but not gunshot loud...  
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« Reply #88 on: March 12, 2019, 12:40:35 pm »




That's a pretty Bandit...   I'm surprised your plugs weren't black if it popped that badly...  The bike must have been running very rich for the PAIR to make it THAT loud....   My bike (not a bandit) pops a lot on decel but not gunshot loud...  


Yeah, it really was gun shot loud! Gets one to wonder how these modern bikes are supposed to run so lean that we(I never have) all buy aftermarket gizmos that richen up  the FI system. The plugs looked great, it has excellent throttle response, gets 50+ MPG. The Suzuki FI system must be able to compensate for the full system and air box modification.
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« Reply #89 on: March 12, 2019, 05:45:34 pm »




Yeah, it really was gun shot loud! Gets one to wonder how these modern bikes are supposed to run so lean that we(I never have) all buy aftermarket gizmos that richen up  the FI system. The plugs looked great, it has excellent throttle response, gets 50+ MPG. The Suzuki FI system must be able to compensate for the full system and air box modification.


Sport bikes run lean -- I'm not sure other bikes do --- they do it because they're running at very high rpms, higher compression and need to make max power at various throttle openings which can change suddenly --ie - a lean environment means the fuel burns quicker allowing higher rpms.  Higher compression also leans out your stoichemistry and a lean environment makes for less drastic changes in HP when the throttle is suddenly whacked on or off...  

What it doesn't do is make the engine last longer or make it more "driveable".  I'm betting touring bikes, cruisers, and standards are not designed to run lean -- but I don't know for sure...   I'm betting off-roaders are designed to run rich -- the trade-off being burn a little more fuel vs get a larger radiator...
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« Reply #90 on: March 15, 2019, 08:45:46 pm »



Let me know what kind of oil and filter you run so I can start an argument discussion on correct lubrication.           Bigsmile





 Lol Hi-flo 138RC filter and Castrol Actevo semi-syn 10W-40
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« Reply #91 on: March 15, 2019, 08:47:46 pm »

Bought a farkle for the Bandit today!  

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« Reply #92 on: March 15, 2019, 09:11:53 pm »


Bought a farkle for the Bandit today!  



Green is good....   Bigsmile
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« Reply #93 on: March 15, 2019, 11:46:43 pm »


Bought a farkle for the Bandit today!  




Very nice. Sense it is a farkle for the Bandit where are you going to carry it on the Bandit? Maybe across the passenger seat? Good in case you get a flat tire!

How does it run?
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« Reply #94 on: March 16, 2019, 12:58:37 am »




Very nice. Sense it is a farkle for the Bandit where are you going to carry it on the Bandit? Maybe across the passenger seat? Good in case you get a flat tire!

How does it run?


Maybe, weighs less than what I have seen on the back seat of an HD!  

Runs well, but will not flog it for a few hundred miles. The Bandit goes faster in second than the KLX can go.
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« Reply #95 on: March 16, 2019, 09:15:34 pm »

Speaking of seats, how many miles can you withstand on that plank above the faux number plate?

bb [also now a 2-bike family, and a reformed DR-650 owner]]
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« Reply #96 on: March 21, 2019, 10:25:34 am »

I haven't ridden the Bandit since I took the pictures. Don't want to get it dirty. Actually, I'm trying to sell it. Haven't received one hit yet. My buddy said I would sell it right away but I had my doubts. It is a terrible transportation market now for the seller. If I sell it I will buy another one and refarkle it like this one. There are still leftover new 2016s out there. If I don't sell it(probably won't) then it is ready to go for the Summer.

I did ride the FJR1300 a couple of times so I still know which side has the clutch lever.                            Bigok

BB-   "Dirt" bikes have a flat, firm seat because you are supposed to stand up a lot. Ain't you never ridden in the dirt?
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« Reply #97 on: March 25, 2019, 09:24:05 am »


Speaking of seats, how many miles can you withstand on that plank above the faux number plate?

bb [also now a 2-bike family, and a reformed DR-650 owner]]


Not sure, only have 210 miles on it and the longest ride was about 50 miles. The seat will get replaced at some point. Most likely a Sergeant.
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« Reply #98 on: March 25, 2019, 09:26:15 am »


 If I sell it I will buy another one and refarkle it like this one.



So why sell it? They last a good long time.
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« Reply #99 on: March 25, 2019, 11:48:25 am »





So why sell it? They last a good long time.


I bought my new Bandit for a steal. UNDER $7,000. If I can get back a large portion of that then buying another at $7,000 may be money well spent. New warranty, info by me gained, farkles tested and ready to reposition on new bike.

I did put 14,500 miles on this Bandit in fourteen months of riding in a total possession time of seventeen months.    
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« Reply #100 on: March 27, 2019, 08:42:08 pm »



Let me know what kind of oil and filter you run so I can start an argument discussion on correct lubrication.           Bigsmile



Oils is virgin narwhal 11.6W38.4

Filter is bypassed.
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« Reply #101 on: March 28, 2019, 01:19:58 pm »




Oils is virgin narwhal 11.6W38.4

Filter is bypassed.


Never heard of that oil. Must be good stuff. Maybe $20.00 per quart? How often do you change oil? Every 10,000 miles?

We will have to talk about that filter bypass strategy you have. You know that removes about 20% of a quart out of the oil capacity of your engine.
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« Reply #102 on: March 30, 2019, 08:16:30 am »




Never heard of that oil. Must be good stuff. Maybe $20.00 per quart? How often do you change oil? Every 10,000 miles?

We will have to talk about that filter bypass strategy you have. You know that removes about 20% of a quart out of the oil capacity of your engine.


$97.50 a gallon, Change it every 1500 miles. Filter bypass has really long hoses to avoid capacity loss.
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« Reply #103 on: March 30, 2019, 08:32:04 am »




Not sure, only have 210 miles on it and the longest ride was about 50 miles. The seat will get replaced at some point. Most likely a Sergeant.


I have a Sergeant on my DR650. The best seat I've ever had - highly recommended (narwhal seat cover. Bigsmile) They didn't make one for my new bike so I went with a Seat Concepts. Sergeant is much better.
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« Reply #104 on: March 31, 2019, 10:53:27 am »




I have a Sergeant on my DR650. The best seat I've ever had - highly recommended (narwhal seat cover. Bigsmile) They didn't make one for my new bike so I went with a Seat Concepts. Sergeant is much better.


Have a Sargent on the Bandit 1250, WAY better than the Zuki gel seat that was on it and the Corbin I had on the 1200.
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« Reply #105 on: January 24, 2020, 06:15:27 pm »

I have a 2011 GSX1250FA. I am toying with the idea of stripping it down and turning it into a naked bike. Take the fairing and cowling off. This would mean I would need to source a round headlight, new instruments, the "ears" to mount the headlight and turn signals to the forks, and I suspect there would need to be some hiding of hoses/wires/ and various other bits. I would also need some way to mount the mirrors on the handlebar. I can't stand those bug antennas sticking up on the front of the bike.

Has anyone done this before? How did it turn out? Where did you find the parts? I checked bikebandit.com but apparently they only show parts for bikes that were sold in the US. I know there was a naked version of the Bandit 1250 available in Europe for a while.
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« Reply #106 on: January 24, 2020, 08:07:53 pm »


I have a 2011 GSX1250FA. I am toying with the idea of stripping it down and turning it into a naked bike. Take the fairing and cowling off. This would mean I would need to source a round headlight, new instruments, the "ears" to mount the headlight and turn signals to the forks, and I suspect there would need to be some hiding of hoses/wires/ and various other bits. I would also need some way to mount the mirrors on the handlebar. I can't stand those bug antennas sticking up on the front of the bike.

Has anyone done this before? How did it turn out? Where did you find the parts? I checked bikebandit.com but apparently they only show parts for bikes that were sold in the US. I know there was a naked version of the Bandit 1250 available in Europe for a while.


Good luck with your project. I've haven't seen what you planning done before. I got to thinking and what you might try is locating a 1200 Bandit in a motorcycle junk yard. Replace the 1250 front end parts with the 1200 stuff. Might work.
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« Reply #107 on: January 26, 2020, 12:55:36 pm »


I have a 2011 GSX1250FA. I am toying with the idea of stripping it down and turning it into a naked bike. Take the fairing and cowling off. This would mean I would need to source a round headlight, new instruments, the "ears" to mount the headlight and turn signals to the forks, and I suspect there would need to be some hiding of hoses/wires/ and various other bits. I would also need some way to mount the mirrors on the handlebar. I can't stand those bug antennas sticking up on the front of the bike.

Has anyone done this before? How did it turn out? Where did you find the parts? I checked bikebandit.com but apparently they only show parts for bikes that were sold in the US. I know there was a naked version of the Bandit 1250 available in Europe for a while.



That conversion is common in Europe. Naked versions were available here. Like Blue said, check motorcycle savage yards. You might also check independent shops as they may have suitable items also.
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« Reply #108 on: March 04, 2020, 11:55:47 am »

Just a story from last weekend:

One of my long time motorcycle buddies has three bikes, N Hayden replica RC51, Motus and highly modified Yamaha FZ10( ). His brother has a nicely done/modified '97 Suzuki TL1000, 2018 alphabet BMW and a new BMW S1000R highly modified( ). So, we always do top gear roll-ons and lower gear redline stuff to see how our different bikes stack up on torque and HP.

Now, my 1250 Bandit runs great. Full 4-1 system, no cat, and air box mod. No ECU tuning but the bike has great throttle response, goes like stink and gets 50 MPG. Because of the extra torque and HP I changed the gearing UP by putting on a one tooth larger front sprocket.

On Friday they took out the S1000R and FZ10. Both handed me my lunch BAD. I knew I was in trouble but not as much trouble as I actually was. Then on Saturday they took out the RC51 and TL1000. I thought I was in trouble again. WOW! the Bandit held it's own!! Beat them in roll-ons until WAY over 100. 4th gear redline stuff same outcome.

I love my Bandit.
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« Reply #109 on: September 13, 2020, 10:34:50 pm »

SOLD my Bandit tonight. I got 68% of new bike sale price. Ran perfect with 20,000 miles. Buyer is happy and so am I.  
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