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Topic: Should I FJR?  (Read 6690 times)

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RBEmerson
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« on: April 09, 2018, 10:43:01 pm »

The unthinkable has happened. One or more asshats, working for a sub-contractor doing work at our house, decided they just had to sit on my bright shiny red '03 BMW K1200RS. And they dropped it. Hard.

The prime contractor said that the sub said "one of our guys damaged the customer's bike's windshield". I guess they didn't tell the foreman about all of the tupperware, tupperware framing, handbrake, and saddlebag damage they did. There will be a sharp discussion shortly. Anyway... Using Max BMW's parts system. The parts bill for the obvious stuff comes up to $1798.73. Unpainted. Add $1009.63 if the fairing frame can't be pushed into place. And, if the customer's really steamed, $388 for the right saddle bag. Kelly lists trade-in on a superb edition at $2700, and retail at $3800. Which means, tossing incidentals like paint and labor, to say nothing of the odd bit or piece that wasn't immediately obvious, the bike is totaled with 45+K on the clock.

All of the above also explains some of why I've stopped swallowing the Beemer Kool-Aid. BMW=Break My Wallet

Soooooooooooo... somewhere on my list of options, way back when I bought the KRS (6-7 years ago?) was the FJR. Now looking at being bike-less, in the spring, no less, and not liking the taste of BMWKool-Aid, I'm back to contemplating FJR's. Help me out here.

New isn't vaguely an option. SWMBO wishes I wouldn't ride. Anything that PO's SWMBO is a Bad Thing. Therefore, new is a Bad Thing.

Non-negotiable must haves: true cruise control. ABS. Clutch - full time. Two wheels, motor, something to sit on, and something to hold it all together are all desirable.

What do I need to know about when all of the must-have boxes were checked? Cruise control seems to have taken a while to show up. It seems to have initially had some quirk (70+ MPH locked out??).

Riding style: moderate gusto, one-up w/ or w/o baggage, anything from slabs to back roads.
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« Reply #1 on: April 10, 2018, 01:00:44 pm »

I've replied in your other post. A Gen III 2013 and up has everything you want and more.
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RBEmerson
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« Reply #2 on: April 10, 2018, 08:44:11 pm »

Great thanks for that. It confirms an '13 isn't going to leave me wishing the bike didn't spit gears or something like that.  Smile
« Last Edit: April 11, 2018, 09:55:15 am by RBEmerson » Logged

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« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2018, 01:20:39 pm »

The adjuster said it's a total as a vehicle claim. As a liability claim, maybe yes, maybe no. I guess I'll be nice and only rip out some hearts and eat them while they're still beating. That should learn them fools not to mess with someone's bike doncha think.
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« Reply #4 on: April 17, 2018, 08:03:48 am »

For anyone keeping track of it, the insurance start to this thread has been almost completely resolved. The bike has been totaled under the idiots' liability insurance. Basically, the insurance company looked at the cost of repairs, a lot, and the value of the bike, not a lot. Totaled. It feels like a "your vehicle hit my vehicle" result, but think about it. The insurance people aren't going to spend more than the bike's worth to make it all bright and shiny again. They're not a charity.

I'm pissed. The actual work to revive the bike is no more than I did when I added the air horn or HID's. Three hunks of tupperware come off, do work, tupperware goes back on. Movie over. But...the current tupperware is broken. I have to buy new tupperware and paint it. I can buy the bike back - for a ridiculous amount - do the work myself, and there's a bright shiny bike. With a salvage title and zero resale value. All that's left is to wave bye-bye as a bike that's in sound mechanical condition and bad cosmetics goes away.
« Last Edit: April 17, 2018, 09:43:17 pm by RBEmerson » Logged

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« Reply #5 on: April 17, 2018, 10:34:44 pm »

"Should I buy an FJR?" Yes!

The insurance process is about complete. Bubba's Insurance gets the bike, I get $3900, and then some lucky dealer gets that plus a bunch more for an FJR.

If all goes as I want, it'll be a '17 ES. If not, a '16 A, maybe.

'18's are dead, out, no way, don't even ask. Whoever wants a matte bike paint is welcome to Krylonize their way to happiness. I can see that paint looking utterly f***ed up in a month. A little too much Plexus landing on the finish - glossy spot. Boot scuff on the top of a case? Don't even think about thinking about buffing it out. Washing the bike? Plan on using a ton of chamois towels to avoid spotting. Wax the paint? You must be joking. And it's a IMNSHO pathetic shade of blue. FAIL! Even the sales manager I was talking to didn't like it.

Plan B is to locate a '17 ES remainder. I know of one - not close to home but not in TX, either. for some unfathomable reason, there are too many FJR's in TX.

Plan C is to go with the '16 A but... I looked into the bits and pieces with my Mk I eyeballs while crawling around on the floo. I found a seam in the drive train housings that has a black line of "uh oh". It may just me some grease or oil that was spilled and was sucked into the gap between two pieces. Or there may be a weeping seal somewhere. That will have to be discussed before I sign on the dotted line.
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« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2018, 10:21:32 am »

Good for you on the FJR.

I've been thinking, a very little mind you, about a new left over 2016 FJR1300A. Dirt cheap prices are out there. The ES costs more for what?! The stock suspension has always worked for me. I don't need buttons.
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« Reply #7 on: April 18, 2018, 10:40:34 am »

I don't know about a new '16, but I demoed a very nice used 16 A. Montgomeryville Cycle Center, Souderton, PA. They're at the high end of NADA & Kelly. I managed to drag $500 off moderately quickly. At the time I wasn't sure about the insurance mess' outcome, I didn't beat them harder, except to say there'd be no trade-in. That may work for me (no aggro taking in an old low dollar project) or against me (make money re-selling). MCC is a BMW dealer; brand isn't an issue here.

Why an ES? Buttons don't bother me. Riding both the RT and K1600 I liked switching from Interstate mellow to let's get serious about this here piece of road spaghetti.

Talk about buttons, have a look that bars on a Triumph Trophy SE. All the usual control everything on the bike, and then radio controls. Reaching even some of the more immediate buttons was... not gonna happen.

I despise BMW's "one ring to bind them all" approach. Twiddling that thing while rolling takes serious dexterity. Knowing what it's going to show next means eyes in the cockpit. I'll take dedicated buttons for $500, Alex.
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« Reply #8 on: April 18, 2018, 02:54:52 pm »


Good for you on the FJR.

I've been thinking, a very little mind you, about a new left over 2016 FJR1300A. Dirt cheap prices are out there. The ES costs more for what?! The stock suspension has always worked for me. I don't need buttons.


I had both a 13A and a 14ES in my garage for over a year.  I could not tell any difference in the ride quality of the forks and very little difference in the shocks although if I had to choose, the ES shock as a little better in ride quality but did not have as much load capacity as the standard shock (about 360 lbs for the ES vs 420 lbs for the A model).  The damping in both shocks is very good.  The biggest difference for me was that the ES has inverted forks and that alone justified the extra cost.
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« Reply #9 on: April 18, 2018, 03:42:35 pm »

Interesting about the reduced load capacity. I tour solo, so it's unlikely I'll max out on weight, if I leave the kitchen sink at home.  Lol

I may be tossing money down the rat hole to have more toys, but, hey, isn't that what we're all here for?  Bigsmile
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« Reply #10 on: April 18, 2018, 04:44:51 pm »


Interesting about the reduced load capacity. I tour solo, so it's unlikely I'll max out on weight, if I leave the kitchen sink at home.  Lol

I may be tossing money down the rat hole to have more toys, but, hey, isn't that what we're all here for?  Bigsmile


I define load capacity as how much weight the bike can carry and still keep the rear sag in the 50-52mm range.  That might vary depending on the distribution of the load.  Exceeding those weights can result in some prettty slow steering...fine for riding in a straight line, not so good for twisty fun roads.
« Last Edit: April 18, 2018, 04:48:33 pm by mcrider007 » Logged
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« Reply #11 on: April 18, 2018, 05:09:18 pm »

You've hit on a point that I'm still trying to get right: setting up the suspension correctly while I'm sitting on the bike and it's not moving. I'm looking for a good how-to that doesn't leave me worse off than when I started.
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« Reply #12 on: April 18, 2018, 06:13:07 pm »


You've hit on a point that I'm still trying to get right: setting up the suspension correctly while I'm sitting on the bike and it's not moving. I'm looking for a good how-to that doesn't leave me worse off than when I started.


Everyone seems to have different ideas on what the front and rear sags should be but the relationship between the ride height between the front and back determines how fast or slow the steering is.  There isnít a lot of adjustment on a FJR, the A models have a dual spring shock (hard and soft) with different right heights that vary with the load and about 20mm of ride height adjustment (called preload) in the forks.  Adding preload increases the ride height and slows steering.  You should start in the middle, ride around some corners and cruise at high speed in a straight line and then decide whether you want to increase or decrease the steering speed.

There really arenít any ride height adjustments on the ES models except to choose one of four different weights (rider and luggage combinations) that are being carried which determines the shock preload.  The total preload adjustment range at the shock is 8mm (0,+2,+4,+2) which translates to about 16mm of ride height adjustment at the seat.  The ES fork adjustments appear to be damping only.
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« Reply #13 on: April 18, 2018, 08:11:29 pm »

Hmmm... I guess I'm still thinking about the ÷lins on the ...um... old bike. They have lots of things to twist and really screw up.

Somewhat related, the Beemer crowd are pretty quick to say stock shocks on the K1600 have a service life of about 20K miles. (I suspect some folks are being anal or repeating locker-room lies)

What's the general history with later FJR's?  What are common after-market shock options? I'm not itching to make a change. I'll wait until after delivery to do it.  Lol
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« Reply #14 on: April 18, 2018, 09:51:09 pm »


Hmmm... I guess I'm still thinking about the ÷lins on the ...um... old bike. They have lots of things to twist and really screw up.

Somewhat related, the Beemer crowd are pretty quick to say stock shocks on the K1600 have a service life of about 20K miles. (I suspect some folks are being anal or repeating locker-room lies)

What's the general history with later FJR's?  What are common after-market shock options? I'm not itching to make a change. I'll wait until after delivery to do it.  Lol


I follow the FJRforum pretty closely and they just had a thread about the ES suspensions and the bottom line is that no one has felt the need to rebuild a ES shock or forks and the highest mileage to date just passed 100K.  A few have replaced the A model shock with Ohlins or Penske, I havenít heard any complaints about the A model shocks actually wearing out.  I sold my Ď13A with 19k miles and felt the suspension still felt like the day I bought it.
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« Reply #15 on: April 18, 2018, 11:03:20 pm »

I sold my 2005 FJR with 69,968 miles on it and stock suspension. I fiddled with the damping settings over the years but I no problem with the stock suspension. My 2012 FJR has 47,000 miles on it and I have no problems with the stock suspension.

No offense intended but if one makes small comfort adjustments and can actually feel a difference in turn in rate on a mountain road............you're A LOT better than me.
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« Reply #16 on: April 19, 2018, 12:49:49 am »

Ah, but the important part is I'll think I've improved things.   Lol

One of the other perks with the ES are the turn lights. At least for turning left. Every review mentioning them isn't so complimentary about right turns.
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« Reply #17 on: April 19, 2018, 10:00:27 am »

Turn lights are a non issue for me. When I ride at night it is on highways. I don't ride at night where there is a good possibility of animals or junk in the road.                   Shrug

Besides, the reason I bought a 2012(last year of Gen2) in 2014 is so I have LESS stuff that can break/cause problems a year or two from now. Sorta like electronic doohickusses related to suspension, computer deciding what I want to do and so forth. I want to get on my bike and ride with a very real probability on not getting stuck in the middle of Utah or Colorado by some hidden diode.


The weekend before last I and a buddy jumped on the bikes and camped out in Shoshone, Ca on the border of Death Valley. Great place and nice people. The next morning we had breakfast and took off. I immediately see a red ABS light on the dash telling me my ABS isn't working. That's OK, 90% of my riding life has been on bikes that never heard of ABS. Next stop when my buddy has to do some business I checked the fuses and sure enough, for some unknown reason the fuse popped. I swapped it out with the factory included spare and the bike was going before my buddy was done. Do that on one of the newer whizz bang electronic everything car/bikes.

Man,         I need some coffee!
 
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« Reply #18 on: April 19, 2018, 11:30:36 am »

Late to the party. Seems you've already chosen to get an FJR. I think you'll be pleased. Some Teutonic-dyed fans lament the lack of "character" compared to BMW but that translates to less time screwing around to keep it running IMO.

Rock solid performers with a long history of successful long rides.
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« Reply #19 on: April 19, 2018, 12:28:13 pm »


You've hit on a point that I'm still trying to get right: setting up the suspension correctly while I'm sitting on the bike and it's not moving. I'm looking for a good how-to that doesn't leave me worse off than when I started.


I designed a survey of FJR owners last month, posted it to both FJR forums, and here are the results from ~ 35 respondents...hopefully these numbers will at least give you a starting point of constructing your own suspension recipe:

Front pre-load: 2 lines with 30% of the vote. Next was 3 lines with 27%.

Front rebound damping: 7 - 8 clicks with 27% of the vote. Next was 5 -6 clicks with 23%.

Front compression damping: Now a tie! 7 - 8 clicks with 30%. Next was 9 - 10 clicks with 30%.

Rear rebound damping: 5 -6 clicks with 27%. Next was 11 - 12 clicks with 23%.

Rear spring preload: Soft with 67%.

As far as FJR-or-no-FJR, I would say Absolutely Yes.  I picked up a leftover '16A last spring to replace a Triumph Thunderbird 1600 cruiser (and several cruisers before that one, so this my first sport tourer / non-cruiser), and could not be more pleased.  Budget a grand+ for a replacement seat, risers, and probably the Touring screen.  As far as the A vs. ES, I had the same decision to make, and I ultimately decided on the A model ,  because 1) I knew I was a set-it-and-forget-it kind of person, 2). even if I weren't the kind of roads I ride on 90% of the time are similar in nature, i.e. I'm not going from tight switchbacks to a straight highway to urban driving, so the useful utility of the ES was limited at best and definitely not worth the extra $$, and 3). I ride solo 98% of the time, so the necessity of quickly/easily changing one-up and two-up loads is virtually non-existant.  So if I was a tinkerer who cruised a wide variety of roads and often had a passenger...yeah, I can see why an add'l $1500 would be a good investment...but otherwise, it seems like that $1500 could better go toward covering those three upgrades I mention earlier.
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